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1985 BMW E28 520i - Going to be for sale for sure (I think)


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My local motor factor got me in a Dizzy cap today. I really didn't want Intermotor but it's all they could get. At 30 quid it was twice the price of the same on eBay, but I dithered too much and didn't get one ordered in time.

Quality unsurprisingly is not a patch on Bosch or Behr.
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This post is going to be a bit picture light this time as my phone suffered a oil and water incident on Thursday evening. So it's not working properly which is making it a pain to take photos.

Removed the thermostat. Old was stuck in the housing and took a few taps to loosen.
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After cleaning up the surface, I grabbed the thermostat. Not sure why they don't come with one, but I drilled a 2mm hole at the top to assist in bleeding.
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Spent a good while flushing fresh water through the system. Currently still full of tap water, so I'll need to remember to drain it out tomorrow and put proper antifreeze in. Weather is supposed to drop to 6c at the lowest tonight, so should be perfectly safe. (Hopefully that's accurate!!)

Replaced the air filter with a clean new one.
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Chucked the air filter box back in and strapped it all up.
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Then went for a start!

Aww crap.

Slight panic at this point. Nothing I had done should have broken it. But it certainly didn't want to run!

Right so what's wrong? Hmm. Let's just change the dizzy cap and rotor as I have them to hand while the ones in the car are in awful condition.

Also the spark plugs got a soaking when the end of the hose came off during filling the cooling system. So used compressed air to blast that out.

Try again.


Oh indeed.

Right let's engage brain. It's not a misfire as it's running. Just only running on full throttle, but barely and at 2500 rpm. Hmm. That's really sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere. I know the hoses are bad, but none of them looked that bad. But this car is full of vacuum hoses and one could well be holed. Lets have a poke around.


Oh. That will do it. How did that fecker come off.
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The taped hose was covering a massive split.
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Other hoses are shot too and not grabbing, so found some heater hose to replace what I could. The bottom hose that came off originally goes to some sort of valve that is on the heater circuit. If my memory serves me correct, this opens up when cold to provide the fast idle.
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While I was doing this, I replaced the hose that goes to the vacuum advance. I didn't have any the right size, so I nicked some by shortening another elsewhere on the car. It's the red striped hose that is the vacuum hose and it goes to some sort of valve. This goes to the vacuum advance and the blue striped hose is the bit I nicked from elsewhere.
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Also decided to replace this very worn brake vacuum hose. If this wasn't already split, it wouldn't be long before it did.
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The fuel hose just before the fuel regulator looked like it was cracking too. This is replaced with some genuine Gates Barracuda hose that is fully ethanol compliant. I want to get the rest of the hoses changed out to ethanol grade but I have run out of my personal stash of it. I'll get it done after its got an MOT.
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Third time lucky?


It smells pretty rich even when warm to me. I've noticed previously in the MOT history that it's been pretty close to an emission fail. I don't know if that was a cold or warm engine though.

Next thing tomorrow will be to go probing with the multimeter and check the resistance of the thermistors. Either something like that or it just needs a jolly good drive.

I've got new plugs to go in, but the existing ones don't look that bad tbh. Probably could do with a new set of ignition leads but they're pretty pricey. Again something for post MOT.
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Ordered this for fixing the heater valve issue. It says it's for a E36 but the part number on it says otherwise. I chose this one as it was the cheapest with a decent amount of loom cable on the connector for soldering on to. It does appear the connector is pretty universal on BMWs and MINIs for quite a few years - used extensively as the external temperature sensor connector.

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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273983935906

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Drained the coolant to refill with antifreeze and water. Heater valve definitely needs replacing as I think it's creating an airlock back there.

When running up, I did notice that the temperature was getting awfully hot. IR gun on the thermostat housing was reading around 98c at this point. Bleed screw wasn't really releasing any air.
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Not sure why it's getting so hot. Possibly an airlock? I did try pretty hard to remove as much air as possible when refilling. I wouldn't think an airlock in the cabin heater matrix should cause this issue.

Maybe the vicious fan isn't very effective anymore? Definitely spins when the engine is running, but I don't think it's getting noticeably quicker when the engine is getting hotter. When I removed it originally, the back did have a distinctive burning smell that you get with old ATF.

While I was there, I dumped the oil and changed it along with the filter. 15w-40 semi-synthetic has gone in.
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Then buttoned up the undertray, ready for the car to be dropped down. I don't think there is much else that needs to be done underneath. Fuel filter needs changing but that's at the rear anyway. Tempting to get the garage to do that after an MOT as it'll be a really easy job for them to do.
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Finally I had the satisfaction of filling and sticking this on. Also went over the old markings for any future owners.
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Nah this isn't a Vauxhall. ;)

Of course it will wiggle around unlike damped gauges but it shouldn't be this high. It's too hot for running at idle in 6c weather. Pretty sure there is an airlock in the heater core due to the valve being busted and blocking the flow. 

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My E28 520i only began to run hot after towing the caravan, and then only when the viscous fan had begun to degrade.  I did something to mechanically lock the viscous bit so that the fan always turned at pulley speed. I hardly noticed any difference in mpg and there was no increase in noise, but it solved the problem.  

Nice, comfortable, refined, very well designed and constructed cars, although the outer double ball joint per side on the lower front arms became a pain at MOT time when the mileage was around 100K unless expensive BMW parts were used.  Poor quality joints did not last long.

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Left the Ozone generator in for a good 100 minutes. Seems to have killed most of the fusty smoke smell. Probably some will like that smell but to me it makes me feel a bit sick. If that does it to me, then Mrs SiC will definitely hate it. Plan is also to run the steam cleaner on the headlining to try removing the yellow tar/nicotine crap stuck in there. Otherwise in a hot summers day, the smell will come back with a vengeance.
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Dropped the car down back onto four wheels on the ground.
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Fuel warning light has gone out but the fuel gauge isn't registering still. Actually I think it's registering lower than when the light was on.
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I went to take a look at the heater valve, but before I did that I found another vacuum hose. I can't see or even feel where this goes but it disappears around the distributor area, so presumably this is the second vacuum line for it.
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Completely split at the manifold end. Chopped this end bit off to good part of the hose. This car is so full of vacuum hoses - I think more than any car I've owned or worked on before and I have owned a lot of modern cars.
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The heater valve is at the back of the bulkhead and bit of a bugger to get to.
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After trying removing the screws and finding the hoses not long enough, I decided to try just taking the top solenoid section off.
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I was expecting coolant to be either in here or even trying to escape. Definitely this valve isn't letting coolant through. Undoing the coolant reservoir cap got it flowing up out.
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The business end of the valve is pretty messy. Some point in its history the coolant system has been neglected on this car. Iirc it was laid up for a number of years when the first owner died and eventually his son pressed it back into action. No doubt that sitting and then using probably did no favours to the cooling system.
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Trying the solenoid on the bench showed it consumed a decent amount of power but didn't do the much in the way of movement.
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Stripping it down found it was in a pretty corroded state.

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After freeing up the parts with GT85, the solenoid started moving again.
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To me that shaft looks like it's missing a c-clip. Perhaps rusted off from the coolant going off?

Playing around with it, it looks like there is a rubber stopper that pushes out the rubber diaphragm to cut the water flow. When not actuated, a spring pulls the shaft back in. With out the c-clip there isn't anything to pull back the diaphragm. Not least there would be back pressure on the valve holding it shut.

The Revs picture of the service diagrams helps visualise how it's supposed to work. On these, it looks like there should be a clip at the bottom.
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I should have a box of c-clips around but I'm blowed if I can find them. Mrs SiC will point out to me that if my garage wasn't such a messy state, it would be a lot easier to find things...

Putting the solenoid back into the car and turning the heating control gives a good solid thunk now. However without a c-clip I suspect that forward water flow will simply force the valve shut. Hence giving me the air lock.

Finally there has been an anonymous looking button/switch by the steering wheel that I couldn't decide what it did or even if it was a button. Fiddling with it some more got it to pop out.
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It appears to be an electric window disable button. A very weird position for it and even more unusual to not put any insignia on it, to make it clear what it actually does.

In other news, once this heater valve issue is sorted and I check the car isn't going to overheat, I'll get an MOT booked up. Biggest thing that's stopping me right now is actually the ruddy great big skip next to it blocking the car in. That should hopefully be gone next week once our new kitchen is finished.

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  • SiC changed the title to 1985 BMW E28 520i - MOT prep

That's an overload switch, it pops out of the windows get something stuck in them, you can just reset them by pushing it back in.

Check that the viscous fan isn't just 'windmilling', it needs to be drawing plenty of air through the rad. Check the rad isn't partially blocked too, otherwise the viscous fan won't work.

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As you're discovering, all those hoses are critical to correct running. They'll nearly all be split near the ends and any convoluted hoses will be split in the depths, making them tricky to locate, they're a bit of a 'mare, some of them are made a specific shape that's difficult to replicate using standard hose sizes.

 

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27 minutes ago, spartacus said:

As you're discovering, all those hoses are critical to correct running. They'll nearly all be split near the ends and any convoluted hoses will be split in the depths, making them tricky to locate, they're a bit of a 'mare, some of them are made a specific shape that's difficult to replicate using standard hose sizes.

 

I'm definitely finding this. I might get an assortment of couplings with different shape bends in. Also make an inventory of pipes and replace the lot. However I think I've got the worst ones sorted now. 

RBJ also suggested to take off the TPS and make sure it's not full of oil. Then check the idle switch is being activated at the correct point. Once all sorted the idle speed will need to be tweaked as it's probably been previously adjusted to get around the leaks. 

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If you're finding that much gunk in the cooling system it's quite possible your radiator is plugged up. I had issues with my P6 running hot and I tried everything including taking it out and flushing it but nothing worked until I had it re-cored and the problem went away.

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49 minutes ago, SiC said:

I'm definitely finding this. I might get an assortment of couplings with different shape bends in. Also make an inventory of pipes and replace the lot. However I think I've got the worst ones sorted now. 

RBJ also suggested to take off the TPS and make sure it's not full of oil. Then check the idle switch is being activated at the correct point. Once all sorted the idle speed will need to be tweaked as it's probably been previously adjusted to get around the leaks. 

Good call on both of those. There's also a manually adjustable IACV underneath the manifold, from memory, they often get adjusted to 'fix' idling issues caused by split hoses, then forgotten about.

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Curing one problem leads you to others.

I am having the same with my SD1. I decided to replace the fuel hoses - it would be wise to service the injectors while they are out. I have refitted the throttle potentiometer only to confirm it is worn out. No longer available, I will see if I can bodge what I have.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Last week I discovered the radiator leaking.
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Nothing has been done since apart from being order the second hand one - thanks RBJ for sourcing it. It should be arriving tomorrow.

In other news, it appears I bought just at the right time according to Mr Bell:
https://www.classiccarsmagazine.co.uk/blog/market-insights/market-watch-bmw-5-series-surge/

Which explains why stuff like radiators are NLA for the porridge models like this 520i. Surges only happen when the demand is there still and numbers have heavily dwindled. Hence the parts situation on E28 only specifics.

Will be glad to start to drive this. Can't book an MOT still though as it is still hemmed in by the skip.

Especially as my eye is already wandering and that will only be kept in check by driving it!

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I'm guessing you could have had it re-cored if the tanks are okay and you couldn't find a second hand one? With my P6 I had it re-cored for 100 something quid by a company in an industrial estate in Glasgow.

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1 minute ago, cort16 said:

I'm guessing you could have had it re-cored if the tanks are okay and you couldn't find a second hand one? With my P6 I had it re-cored for 100 something quid by a company in an industrial estate in Glasgow.

That would have been the only choice if I didn't have this second hand unit coming. Many places don't like re-coring with plastic tanks though. @panhard65 had already contacted the local radiator repair company to me for another job and they said they're very busy. The one that RBJ sourced is only 70quid and looks in decent condition. So hopefully quicker and cheaper than a re-core.

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Hoping that the UPS driver doesn't damage it either.

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Apparently drops right in and you can leave those holes open without a problem. I might plug them up with something though if I can find something suitable.

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Enjoying the read. Always wanted the 525e but prices are now out of my range :-(

I managed to get my old Audi rad re-cored by this bloke in Avonmouth.  Arrow Radiators. Was not especially cheap (120ish compared to 80 to 90 plus postage from Germany) but it was a good job and I had it within a week. He actually used brand new plastic tanks that fitted the pattern I had.  IIRC he said he was doing quite a few early golf rads like this. Worth a ring if you get stuck!

For pipes I have used Pirtec.  They sell latest ethanol resistant etc. You might get some rubber pipe for the vacuum hose there.

HTH

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2 hours ago, SiC said:

.... stuff like radiators are NLA for the porridge models like this 520i. Surges only happen when the demand is there still and numbers have heavily dwindled. Hence the parts situation on E28 only specifics....

I had a look at what Walloth & Nesch (usually good for old BMW parts) had to offer in radiators, and even they don't currently have one. They have them brand-new for 518s, 525s, 528s and the M535i, but not the 520i...

Prices are a bit stiff, though. 400 Euros-plus....!

Also the SI board is still available

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The lack of spare parts is definitely off putting on the ownership experience. I'm hoping that once this is replaced, it should be ready for an MOT after fixing the heater valve + bleeding. 

I hate the thought of having to go through this pain of trying to source bits anytime something breaks. Really didn't expect this on a German car by a manufacturer still in business. 

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15 minutes ago, SiC said:

The lack of spare parts is definitely off putting on the ownership experience. I'm hoping that once this is replaced, it should be ready for an MOT after fixing the heater valve + bleeding. 

I hate the thought of having to go through this pain of trying to source bits anytime something breaks. Really didn't expect this on a German car by a manufacturer still in business. 

I am very very surprised to hear you can’t locate parts for your E28. As mentioned above, Walloth & Nesch carry a large and varied  product line for all older BMWs and have also remanufactured many parts that are available off the shelf too, BMW themselves still stock a vast variety of parts for all models, interior trim is hard to come by but mechanical, running gear and body panels in particular are all mostly still available direct. I never failed to locate new panels and mechanical parts for my E3s, E9s, E28 and the E32 735i that I ran as a daily up until quite recently, I can even still get every body panel for my Z1 if required directly from BMW.. I will agree that some parts can be expensive however they are mostly all still readily available as I’ve found in the 25 years I’ve owned older Beemers.. 

EDIT - Ivo at e28.nl is also a very good source of parts for older BMWs, the E28 is his speciality though, top bloke too.

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5 minutes ago, SiC said:

The lack of spare parts is definitely off putting on the ownership experience. I'm hoping that once this is replaced, it should be ready for an MOT after fixing the heater valve + bleeding. 

I hate the thought of having to go through this pain of trying to source bits anytime something breaks. Really didn't expect this on a German car by a manufacturer still in business. 

These cars are all over 30 years old now. Plastics go brittle and crack, things get dislodged. Nothing lasts forever, even if it was well-built originally.

BMW are better than most for old parts supply (you can still order bits for O2s and E3/E9/E12), but they do work on a batch basis. I had a taste of this during my E24 years, having to wait for bits of trim. I still can't believe I paid £400+VAT for each front wing panel back then....

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I am very very surprised to hear you can’t locate parts for your E28. As mentioned above, Walloth & Nesch carry a large and varied  product line for all older BMWs and have also remanufactured many parts that are available off the shelf too, BMW themselves still stock a vast variety of parts for all models, interior trim is hard to come by but mechanical, running gear and body panels in particular are all mostly still available direct. I never failed to locate new panels and mechanical parts for my E3s, E9s, E28 and the E32 735i that I ran as a daily up until quite recently, I can even still get every body panel for my Z1 if required directly from BMW.. I will agree that some parts can be expensive however they are mostly all still readily available as I’ve found in the 25 years I’ve owned older Beemers.. 
 


A lot of parts are available for the bigger and more exotic stuff like the M5/M535i/etc. They're the ones of course that people preserve. Middle porridge stuff like a 520i are harder though. Possibly because many were binned and so not many left. Interestingly the 518i still has a fairly good supply - I guess because, like a lot of cars, the low spec ones are popular with older people who keep their cars longer.

BMW OEM do have quite a few parts available. However they not only seem to be suffering the same problem as other classic car parts being poor quality repro. e.g. the OEM BMW heater valve is no longer Bosch and of poor quality. Then those official parts seem to require you to sell a kidney every time you need something. At least that's what I've found when I've enquired for bits on this. However a lot is surprisingly NLA.

Thankfully a lot of the core engine bits have been used on enough other models that they are readily available. Also the E30 still seems to have a ready supply of parts too and those that are shared, are affordable and obtainable. I guess because there are so many more E30 left around and so a ready market for parts still to be made.

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2 hours ago, billy_bunter said:

I managed to get my old Audi rad re-cored by this bloke in Avonmouth.  Arrow Radiators. Was not especially cheap (120ish compared to 80 to 90 plus postage from Germany) but it was a good job and I had it within a week. He actually used brand new plastic tanks that fitted the pattern I had.  IIRC he said he was doing quite a few early golf rads like this. Worth a ring if you get stuck!

They were the guys I was talking about that Panhard65 had spoken to. Useful to know they did a good job, as I need to find someone for my Dolomite radiator at some point soon. 

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Fitted new, second hand radiator today.
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Nothing really to say. Single bolt at the top and three hoses to unclamp then remove.
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Old radiator is date coded 1998, so not that old.
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The leak appears to be because the core is coming away from the tank. Bit of a weird fault and not what I expected, as no obvious reason why it should have done that. Probably repairable?
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New radiator is date coded 2009, so a decade newer.
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Also put a circlip and washer on the end of the heater valve pintle. Hopefully this will fix it. If the valve still plays up, I'll put the E46 one in instead. The circlip was a bit too big and loose, so I squished it with a pair of vice grips.
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Filled the system up the best I could and unbolted + held the tank high to try bleeding the best I could. Couldn't see any leaks thankfully. I'll run it up tomorrow and try getting it up to temperature. Hopefully it will be possible to bleed through and not cause it to start roasting itself again.




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Bleeding coolant systems on these older M20B20 (and M30B35) engines can be a challenge. I have used this guide before with success on both my 735i (M30) and also “tailored” the same procedure to my Z1 (M20B25)  when I changed the timing belt and water pump last year, it does work and saves a load of faffing.

https://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=58368

 

 

 

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  • SiC changed the title to 1985 BMW E28 520i - Going to be for sale for sure (I think)

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      I've been sleeping badly recently and in the early hours the other night I found a 480 an hour away from me closer to my theoretical budget. The ad sounded promising, the MOT history not too scary AND it was turquoise!

      It's an 'S' so the base model, 1.7 Renault engine, no fancy info screen but had been specced with optional half leather seats. I arranged to go and see it yesterday. I have a thing for two door estates and pop-up headlights but had a firm figure in mind well below the asking price and resolved to walk away if I couldn't get it for what I was willing to pay. The Wayback Machine helped me discover the car had been for sale for 17 weeks at gradually reducing asking prices and some handy buyers guides from Owners Clubs meant I knew what to look out for. Prices are all over the place on these and as we all know what a car is advertised for isn't always what is sells for - they're rare but still rather forgotten. The vendor said he'd bought it from a local garage before lockdown but then it had developed some faults and he'd not had the money to sort them out. When I contacted him on WhatsApp his profile picture was of a car transporter so it seemed likely he was a trader of some sort.
      He let me spend a good hour systematically going over the car while I compiled a list of issues in addition to the ones he'd mentioned. I hate negotiating so I was straight with him and said look I could pretend to be Mike Brewer and offer you and insultingly low figure and we can go back and forth but here's where I'm at. I showed him other ads (and how long they'd been up for) and my list of issues with a rough guesstimate of what it would cost to sort them and named what I was willing to pay. "Old art yer 'and," he said. "Hang on," I replied, "You've got a car transporter and as the car isn't currently driveable on the road (the indicators don't work) I want it delivered." He hummed and harred but eventually we shook on it.
      So far the to do list is looking like this:
       4 new shocks - rears 'slightly corroded', fronts 'lightly misted'
      2 new front tyres
      New Battery
      Sort exhaust blow and investigate rusty cat
       
      Rear of sills where it meets rear arch is a known weak spot on these, this doesn't look too bad but want to sort it before it gets any worse

      Replace damaged daytime running light

      Possibly replace faded and cracked rear lights - these are no longer available and rare as rocking horse poop - 'best' price I've found a pair for so far is £260 (HFM!) but they'll need replacing eventually and the longer I leave it the dearer they'll get so I might just hold my breath and take the hit now.

      Replace Central Electronics Module (CEM) which (hopefully) is the cause of the indicators not working and the headlights doing this (at least I know the motors work!). I've managed to track one of these down for £80.

      VID_20210618_150013_01_01[1].mp4 These are getting to be rare cars now and although they share a lot of parts with the other 400 series cars the bits that are unique to the 480 are getting harder to find and consequently more expensive. The irony is that over time I'll probably end up spending more than I would have on the shiny red one. I won't have had the satisfaction of doing myself though and isn't that a large part of what our hobby is about? Built not bought. Other than my BX which I bought off here this is the first time I've bought a vehicle without taking it for a test drive. The biggest gamble is that the electrical issues aren't sorted by a new battery and CEM. But hey, what's life without taking a few risks?

      I take delivery Monday, can't wait!
    • By Fumbler
      To mark the genesis of my fleet project thread I here present my new car: a 1997 Nissan Micra Shape-


      It really looks that good. There is a reason for this: its previous owner was an old lady who loved the thing so much so she made every effort to keep it in good shape. It originally came from Fleet in the GU postcode which suggests to me it was bought by the present dealer at auction, hence arriving down here in Kent. Before seeing the car I checked its MOT history and its only fails were thanks to broken stoplights, which shows me that it was very well cared for. I suppose an example of this was that on the last MOT, an advisory was a corroded rear silencer. The silencer on the car when I saw it was new. Methinks the lady wanted to keep it as good as possible. It was kept in a garage and so all the bumpers and black trim are very black and the tyres are in very good condition. Spare never used! Also included a free Dettol first aid kit from 1997.
      This car has 15000 genuine miles on the clock. We clocked over 15000 during the test drive! The lady owner really only trundled around her village in it and the MOT shows that it only did some meagre miles between tests. This, of course, came at a price. We saw a cherry red Micra from 2002 at the same dealer. Paint was shoddy and when they washed it the boot had massive sections of bare metal and it wasn't very happy. This car, however, is in fabulous condition and there was no contest between the two cars- it really is that good, inside and out. Immaculate interior, driver's airbag, cassette player... all there and all functioning (apart from cassette thanks to new battery and failed display). This meant that I bought it for £1600, £100 over what was my uppermost limit, but I knew I wouldn't see another like this that was in as good shape for a fair while. It was priced very ambitiously, at £1990, so I'm content in the fact I managed to slash a few hundred off the price. There wasn't that much paperwork though. All the dealership received was the logbook with 3 service stamps from 1998, 1999 and 2000, the radio key pass, a National Trust sticker, and the original paperwork holder. I suspect the old lady died and had her car auctioned, and the massive file of paperwork is now someone's egg carton, along will everything else she owned.

      As always, this car isn't exactly in showroom condition. While the inside is great and the floor is solid, and the underseal is in great shape, the not undersealed parts need a small looking at. Mainly the rear of the driver's side sill. It's really the only bubbling on the car. I suspect a well aimed stonechip managed to fester over the wintery salted roads, making it rust even more. It's around the size of a 5p piece, and will give me the opportunity to spray the insides of the sill with some chain oil to prevent any further corrosion. Behind the fuel tank there are a few rusty joints- places where the spraygun cannot get paint onto- which some Vactan and Dynax should put to rights. Alternator belt looks original because of the cracking and Nissan badges and will need doing soon as well as the front plate. As much as I like the 90's font and original dealer surround, the dishevelled R and general water ingress is a persistant MOT advisory. It could be the MOT station being strict (and most likely is considering there's a Saxo down the road with far worse blackening), however for the sake of peace of mind and all that, I'll get a new one made. The rear has already been replaced indicating this has happened before.
      All in all, I think this is a nice plucky motor. I'll have it by the end of the week; just got to sort out tax, insurance, and it's going to have an MOT. As part of the deal it's getting the MOT and an oil and filter change which will be something ticked off the list. It has some love scratches and chips here and there, but it drives well, is stiff and controllable, and should make out to be a nice summer project!
    • By Peter C
      Woke up this morning, had a little time before I had to leave the house for work, had a quick look at what’s new for sale on Retro Rides and saw an ad for a W124 200E manual, located 15 miles from home. I had no intention of buying a car today but I had to have it! I called the seller and arranged a viewing.
       
      Faults:
       
      2 x rusty front wings (TADTS)
      1 x rusty rear arch
      Needs a polish
      Tracking is out because new track rod end was fitted for MoT
      Engine has oil leak/s
       
      Good points:
       
      It’s a W124 200E!
      5 speed manual transmission
      New clutch
      Brand new MoT
      Superb MoT history
      4 x as new Continental tyres
      Last owner for 15 years, her husband before that for 4 years
      Very tidy MB-Tex interior
      Drives well
      All electrics work
       
      The dealer kindly delivered the car to my house but I managed a pez station shot on route:
       

       
      Plans:
       
      Remove front wings, cut away rust and apply plenty of wob.
      In-situ similar repair for rear arch
      Clean and polish
      Service engine
      Adjust tracking
      Leave patina and enjoy the car as it is
       
      I will update this thread once progress is made.
       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       
      Hopefully these two will become good friends.
       

    • By dome
      This evening I venture forth into hitherto unknown lands (Kirkintilloch) to collect my latest acquisition.

      Which, naturally, has issues.

      I have purchased my first line of defence.



      Which appears to have antigravity properties

      More will follow this evening...
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