My project cars thread. We're now not motoring (again).

[JMotor]

42 minutes ago, IronStar said:

Would some sort of a VW part work? Even if it means replacing the matrix with VW one? 

Sadly I'm stuck with the original BLARG setup.

I replaced the ruined matrix I found not long after buying the car last year. Wasn't a cheap item either. So I don't want to do away with it.

These buggers are the major issue. They rust out and pin hole randomly.

I got these ones a while back as another set to have. These are rotted out in places too. However I may look at repairing these or use as a template for making a set.

There was stainless ones made years ago through the FB owners club. Sadly they were group buy only. So not something I can easily buy.

Annoyingly. I could of got a matrix with the hose tails instead of the the flange from the same seller. I should of got that instead.

[Matty]

That's got to be a chemical metal job surely. Much easier than trying to repair with a heat producing process!

[JMotor]

1 hour ago, Matty said:

That's got to be a chemical metal job surely. Much easier than trying to repair with a heat producing process!

😅

You'd have been either proud or disgusted at the amount of chemy metal I had used 😆.

It's probably fixable with some more or I'll have to quickly learn how to braze stuff.

[Supernaut]

This may sound silly but can you not do something with fuel hose?

The context is that our series Land Rover project uses fuel hose to connect to the heater. It essentially has stubs of hard line at each end (engine and the heater itself) with just big thick fuel hose connecting it all together. Held on with jubilee clips.

Admittedly the stubs at each end are flared, so that might be challenging to replicate.

[JMotor]

It is an idea.

Something I may look at. As these pipes join at the bulkhead. Could bridge those with hose joiners then rubber pipe to the remains of the metal pipes which then bolts to the matrix.

Be a case of making something with a barb end to fit the remains. 

Tried joining the previous damaged section with heater hose. Kinda worked, but the jubilees ended up crushing the pipe and I had a small drip.

[Mr Pastry]

If the flange that attaches to the matrix is sound, then cut the pipes back to a couple of inches long and do the rest with heater hose.  If the hose fits properly and is well clamped it doesn't really need flared ends to the pipes.  If the pipes are rotten where they enter the flange it wouldn't be difficult to braze some new bits in.  Could do it for you but I don't think you are local..  

[JMotor]

On 27/11/2024 at 10:56, Mr Pastry said:

If the flange that attaches to the matrix is sound, then cut the pipes back to a couple of inches long and do the rest with heater hose.  If the hose fits properly and is well clamped it doesn't really need flared ends to the pipes.  If the pipes are rotten where they enter the flange it wouldn't be difficult to braze some new bits in.  Could do it for you but I don't think you are local..  

I'm just about in the middle of nae where. Thank you for the offer though.

I had a look at my spare set of pipes. I've manged to separate the pipes from the mounting flange without much hassle. Also remembered I have a load of 15mm copper pipe from a DIY job ages ago and some Yorkshire fittings with a near enough bend to work. Nowt to lose by having a go at making a set.

[grogee]

3 hours ago, JMotor said:

I'm just about in the middle of nae where. Thank you for the offer though.

I had a look at my spare set of pipes. I've manged to separate the pipes from the mounting flange without much hassle. Also remembered I have a load of 15mm copper pipe from a DIY job ages ago and some Yorkshire fittings with a near enough bend to work. Nowt to lose by having a go at making a set.

Bon chance, I'd be interested in how this pans out as no doubt mine are fucked too. 

I did manage to get a matrix (I think from that guy who was selling loads of Maestro bits) as they too are NLA. 

In that picture above of the pipes, does the long bit with the flat flange go inside the cabin? 

[JMotor]

9 minutes ago, grogee said:

In that picture above of the pipes, does the long bit with the flat flange go inside the cabin? 

Sorry daft question time!

This bit?

Or this bit?

The Maestro/Montegos are one of the easiest cars I've replaced a matrix on. Once the glovebox is out of the road you can access it all 

[grogee]

The bottom pic. Is that what mates with the matrix inside the cabin? 

[JMotor]

Yep that's it. Three Allen headed screws holds it on. Be careful they are a pain for chewing up the internal hex so be sure the key is fully seated into the screw first. I use a key with a ball end, once they are all cracked off they come out pretty quickly by switching to the other end. Think it's a 4mm hex if I remember right?

There is a rubber gasket that sits in-between the two. Have guess how availability is for those.... 

Or they did use o-rings in the past. So you could possibly go with that.

I shall share my effort/failure with making new pipes on here. 

[grogee]

On 27/11/2024 at 08:28, JMotor said:

😅

You'd have been either proud or disgusted at the amount of chemy metal I had used 😆.

It's probably fixable with some more or I'll have to quickly learn how to braze stuff.

As an aside, is chemical metal the same sort of thing as JB Weld? 

On the subject of rusty pipes, I did these support/transfer bits and pieces on my Maestro in high temp paint. Black would have been better but I already had a tin of blue open.

The upright struts support the manifolds and the crossways one is a coolant pipe. I chose high temp as it's pretty close to the zorst... 

[JMotor]

Yeah, JB weld and Chemical metal are pretty much the same two part epoxy goo.

Not a bad shout painting that coolant pipe. As it might be another one that's not easily replaceable.