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9 minutes ago, Sham said:

That's just a cover, as long as the screen is sealed and the drains are ok - not an issue that it doesn't sit flush.

Thanks. I figured as water goes down there anyway it didn't make the blindest bit of difference - but just wanted to be sure.

On a happy note, even after all of this snow the sunroof FINGERS CROSSED isn't leaking and the passenger seat is staying dry - even the headliner is drying out...

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Anyone know a good place to get a new key done for this?

I have a Black  key, which is the one that starts it (has the immobiliser gubbins inside), one that is cut the same but just does the locks (no immobiliser, or space for one or gubbins inside to program - I've tried!) and the red key. 

So really - all I need is a Blue key with an unprogrammed chip/whatever inside and I can program it myself with the red key...

Did goto my local Timpsons but they didn't have the machine there so I'd have to go about 20 mins away to get a price. Just wondered if anyone knew anything.

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The easy way out is to remove the stalk cover and McGyver the red key close to the signal pickup ring located around the ignition lock.

Failing that, it should be possible to clone the chip or get a blank one for not too many cowrie shells.

Transponder (chip) type:

https://www.transpondery.com/transponder_catalog/fiat_transponder_catalog.html

And it looks like this:

 

Transponder_Fiat.jpg

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22 hours ago, Bitzer said:

The easy way out is to remove the stalk cover and McGyver the red key close to the signal pickup ring located around the ignition lock.

Failing that, it should be possible to clone the chip or get a blank one for not too many cowrie shells.

Transponder (chip) type:

https://www.transpondery.com/transponder_catalog/fiat_transponder_catalog.html

And it looks like this:

 

Transponder_Fiat.jpg

A lovely chap on Facebook who breaks Bravos (I think?) shared this little nugget of info with me last night!

The Transponder you've pictured is the ID48 - which doesn't fit in the JMA keys as standard, luckily mine had the ID46 transponder - which does!

popped open the red one:

PXL_20210211_191523547.thumb.jpg.ed3c738bd8766210015dab7ac45bf8ec.jpg
ID46 transponder pictured

Took the removable bit out of the JMA key:

PXL_20210211_191528366.thumb.jpg.4571d132f3c3a73a9ff28540d8d4ffed.jpg

Popped in the ID46 transponder:

PXL_20210211_191557744.thumb.jpg.14209e79c0829acc1042199382e22acf.jpg

Popped it back in:

PXL_20210211_191720601.thumb.jpg.dadff142eaeb4bc68e740a063d69d4a9.jpg

And now I have a perfect condition key that starts the car. Whey!

Best price too, free!

Did 25 or so miles today in the Bravo for work, hauling a huge amount of old equipment for disposal (to the point that I wondered if it was actually quite overloaded - it was pretty low...) and visiting a few sites - performed faultlessly. Needs a service though. Done about 55 miles to 1/4 of a tank. I know that when the ECU learns the MPG is worse, plus it's being used properly for the first time in years and needs a service - I know these engines get bag MPG but I'm hoping it's not 200 miles to £40 MPG...

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Bit of a weird one, struggled to idle again yesterday and stalled going up a hill which required some full throttle and a lively pull away to get going again. Hoping it's either because it was -3, the connectors have got dirty again somehow or its just crap working its way through the system... 

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Okay, had some runs in it today, especially this eve as my heating broke and had to fly about looking for radiators to plug in - fixed it now but anyhow. 

All seemed fine. Gave it a bloody good rag down the the local private road too (5/6k and 80 - 90MPH) and that seems to have helped a bit too. 

Got the oil, fuel, cabin and air filters from Euros so that's next when it warms up. 

Now....engine temp. It gets to one notch under halfway when running, goes a bit when I drive with the heater on full whack so I tend to recirc the air. When it's sitting I've seen it sneak a notch over halfway a few times but sits there, fan comes on and its normal again soon after, never goes higher. 

 

I know it's super cold atm - but is this normal or I guess a coolant flush and new thermostat is worth it anyhow. 

Also hear a whine that I thought was gearbox but happens when crusing in neutral so assuming diff - not worryinly whiny but it's noticeable on the motorway sometimes. Might drop the diff oil and put something thicker, or at least newer in, same for the gearbox. Or am I just asking for trouble.... 

I've had a diff blow on a punto and punt a hole in the gearbox - and a micra gearbox go out after whining and then me filling the car with roof tiles so I'm very aware of it 

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Air filter done. Looks like it needed it. I do worry about how this car has been treated....

Also noticed one of the two little pipes going from the airbox to under the injection system....bit was nearly all the way unplugged. Plugged that back in. Also cable tied the end of the pipe that comes from the manifold into the airbox on the airbox end as it was pretty loose. 

Breathes much easier now. Gets up and going better. Started well and seems less fuelly smelling too. Maybe that pipe was affecting the mixture. Hopefully as I've done 128 miles to over half a tank of fuel, I hope it improves. 

Can't wait to do the oil change to see how that improves things. Is engine flush worth adding before draining given its lack of service history? I'll remove and inspect the plugs too I think. 

Also got a Sony Bluetooth stereo for £15 locally and fitted that. Had to change two wires around on the harness to get it to remember its settings - fun to know. Common on Sony's it seems, red and yellow for those interested. 

IMG_20210214_234003.jpg

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I agree with @Dan302, engine flushes are unnecessary, just go and find the cheapest Diesel engine oil (more detergents) you can find of the correct grade that has an API grading on the bottle, run it for somewhere between 500 - 1000 miles or so with a new filter including some good long high speed runs, then change oil and filter once more.  Bonus shite-ing points for snapping up opened but barely used 4/5 litre bottles on eBay for buttons.

Monitor and change earlier if it almost immediately goes black though.

 

Far better the detergents in the new oil gently clean over time, as opposed to engine flushes that have aggressive detergents that can dislodge lumps that have been known to block oilways in the past.

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21 hours ago, Dan302 said:

I don't really trust engine flushes not to loosen some crap which then might block an oil way. I'd just do an oil change then maybe another in a few thousand miles. I am loving seeing this car being cared for :)

 

9 hours ago, Dj_efk said:

I agree with @Dan302, engine flushes are unnecessary, just go and find the cheapest Diesel engine oil (more detergents) you can find of the correct grade that has an API grading on the bottle, run it for somewhere between 500 - 1000 miles or so with a new filter including some good long high speed runs, then change oil and filter once more.  Bonus shite-ing points for snapping up opened but barely used 4/5 litre bottles on eBay for buttons.

Monitor and change earlier if it almost goes black though.

 

Far better the detergents in the new oil gently clean over time, as opposed to engine flushes that have aggressive detergents that can dislodge lumps that have been known to block oilways in the past.

I think they take 10/40 SS, which I happen to have some of in the garage of a random brand so I'll whack that in and see how we go. 

Does anyone know if the rear seats fold totally flat? I can fold the left rear down, leaving a bar in the way, but the middle and RHS ones stay put seemingly attached to this bar. Might just remove the bar and see what happens... 

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Just to finish on the subject of the oil, I would have put money on 10/40 being correct so yes give it a go, as said monitor at 500 and then 1000 miles for oil colour, change after 3000 if still golden brown rather than black if it’s cheap cheap stuff, leave it for maximum 5000 miles or year maximum if decent.

I remember years ago a chap on practical classics mag gradually flushed the engine of a Mitsubishi Colt he’d bought in this way, he had to keep changing at 500 miles 3 or 4 times before he could start to lengthen out the change intervals however, as the engine was so filthy internally.

Really enjoying this thread - in almost anyone else’s hands this car would be weighed in, it pleases me to know it’s with someone who’s giving it the birthday it needed.

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"Might drop the diff oil and put something thicker, or at least newer in, same for the gearbox. Or am I just asking for trouble.... "

I'm fairly sure the diff oil and gearbox oil will be one and the same. Do your homework before you charge it, I'm not sure when they changed but earlier gearboxes on 'Fire' engined cars need an oil that's not EP rated. There's an additive in EP oils that attacks bronze gearbox components.

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Hmm. Did something maybe a bit silly. 

Needed fuel, put in 15 quid of shell super duper 99 and the rest of the bottle of redex and gave it a rag with the idea that I'm doing the filter this weekend anyway so I may as well. Stalled and coasted on a main road - got it going again after some waiting and cranking. 

 

Drove to next job, did it, took some cranking to start but did, lost power on the way to the next job and same thing but now it won't start. I assume I've effectively cleaned something so much I've clogged the filter or a pipe somewhere. 

 

Good thing I took out autoaid breakdown the other day! Awaiting pickup. Hopefully I've not opened a can of worms.... 

 

Edit: gave the pipe that I assume supplies the fuel to the injection system a good squeeze to dislodge any chod and it seems to be okay now. But I thought that before! 

 

Edit again: got a few miles and the same happened. I'll wait for the recovery 😂 

 

One more: running again after sitting for a bit. Only 20 mins or so until recovery tho so I'll wait. As I was typing the bonnet fell off of its stay, slammed down and dented the slam panel. Indented with a special tool* (my hands) and the bonnet locks again. Christ. 

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Wow, you must be a very mild mannered type to write about that so calmly! I'd be jumping!

Those symptoms could be a lot of things but they have crank position sensor written all over them, maybe something to check?

That's your weekend filled though, what would we do for fun without old cars.:-)

Good luck with it.

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Fuel filter would be my first port of call, when you change it I would fill it with neat injection cleaner (good stuff, not redex mind), then tip another bottle in the tank and brim it with branded fuel.

Hopefully this sorts the issue.

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On 2/19/2021 at 4:11 PM, Dj_efk said:

Fuel filter would be my first port of call, when you change it I would fill it with neat injection cleaner (good stuff, not redex mind), then tip another bottle in the tank and brim it with branded fuel.

Hopefully this sorts the issue.

I wouldn't want to invite any more loosening of crap to the system to be honest!

On 2/19/2021 at 4:08 PM, spartacus said:

Wow, you must be a very mild mannered type to write about that so calmly! I'd be jumping!

Those symptoms could be a lot of things but they have crank position sensor written all over them, maybe something to check?

That's your weekend filled though, what would we do for fun without old cars.:-)

Good luck with it.

Noted - although it seems to have done the trick. Appreciate the tip off :-) - live is too short to get frayed over old cars :-)

I actually ended up driving home as the recovery place kept extending the ETA and I got bored. Cut out once and was a bit down on power but got there fine. I assume it was the system pressuring to a certain pressure then the fuel pump cutting off, as when I let it sit for a bit it seemed to be happy to start, run for a bit then die again.

Old Fram filter:

PXL_20210220_172745820.thumb.jpg.8e2f70403758c1d3090da4fb99d61b26.jpg

Looked old - no idea how old but....old I guess.

New Mann one fitted:

PXL_20210220_164511301.thumb.jpg.b5a12e9b5bf2a8b700a15023b1583c9b.jpg

Seems to run fine on the short trips I've done since fitting it, idles good, runs up to temp, doesn't stall, smooth power.

Never fitted a fuel filter before and finding the fuel pump fuse was a bit of an arse but we got there in the end. Nice to learn.

Oil tomorrow. Whee!

 

Also attaching the PDFs of the Technical and Haynes manuals I found - saves money buying them and was super, super helpful.

Bravo-a_Service_Manual_Vol1.pdf FiatBravoAHaynesRepairManual.pdf

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Oil and filter done - engine sounds much happier and less tappy now. Drove to asda and back and around a bit with no issue. Tiny bit of extra cranking at Asda - might get another fuel filter on standby just in case this one blocks too.

Chap I know popped round for a distanced chat about PC advice - and he recently got this sub 30k Punto. Jealous - future shite. Also was my first car (not this exact one but a Y reg one)

2050654790_PXL_20210221_130223589(1).thumb.jpg.952fa11a09c4735673e85781383358d9.jpg

Now just to figure out how I turn the sodding airbag light off....

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56 minutes ago, SmokinWaffle said:

Oil and filter done - engine sounds much happier and less tappy now. Drove to asda and back and around a bit with no issue. Tiny bit of extra cranking at Asda - might get another fuel filter on standby just in case this one blocks too.

Chap I know popped round for a distanced chat about PC advice - and he recently got this sub 30k Punto. Jealous - future shite. Also was my first car (not this exact one but a Y reg one)

2050654790_PXL_20210221_130223589(1).thumb.jpg.952fa11a09c4735673e85781383358d9.jpg

Now just to figure out how I turn the sodding airbag light off....

They look surprisingly good in white!!! usually see Red or Blue ones..never seen a white one

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Weird...not driven in a day or so, on my way to somewhere important, realise I have forgotten something but I'm on a schedule so get my other half to drop it to me. Pull over in a car park after a short motorway run. 

She arrives, I try to start it again, just turns over. Filter blocked again? Fuel system pressurised? Who knows. I take her car and take her with me or ill miss the appointment. 

Goto it 3 hours later, starts fine. Drive it through town gingerly with her following me, all good, cuts out a few mins from home. Just turns over. 

Some lovely chaps pushed me out of the road. 

I'm thinking it's related to the coolant temp sensor that was mentioned earlier? It always sits just below half but spends a lot of its time at a quarter. If I'm stationary it'll often get to a notch over half, fan will kick in, it'll go down then be fine, and repeat. 

The engine when I just tried it (I'm waiting for it to cool) is very hot. Pipes from the radiator both too hot to hold for 3+ seconds. Cam cover is very very hot, not that that's abnormal in a car of course. 

Opened the coolant bottle after letting it cool for 10 minutes, steaming and still has coolant in. I'm wondering if he thermostat isn't opening and its just overheating but not reporting it properly..... Short of running it stationary and seeing if I can hear it open, hard to tell. I mean running it with the cap off and seeing if the level drops I guess would do it. 

Any ideas? I mean I can do the fuel filter again if needed and this did only happen after I did a stupid thing as mentioned (redex idiocy). Guess it could be the filter. 

Half tempted to take the reg off and scrap the thing. Maybe it's had too hard of a life and just isn't worth it. 

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5 minutes ago, tul66 said:

Don't scrap it, I'd be interested in taking it off your hands.

Drop me a message. Got it started again, drove 3 minutes home gingerly with fan on Max. Took off coolant cap when parked, bubbles. Rose and overflowed. 

Let it sit for a few mins with the engine off, started it again, level rises and overflows again. Signs of head gasket failure to me - feel free to advise if anyone knows anything else. I'll try it when it's cold too, then I'll know. 

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Started it from cold, very tiny bubbles, followed by rising coolant as it warms. Not really worth replacing for me as the head could be warped I guess, who knows how long the chap ran it like this....unless someone can convince me otherwise, putting money into a £200 car for potentially the same result of the head is warped seems dumb. 

 

Could be a good learning experience...

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how quickly does the coolant rise? I was always told best way for checking if exhaust gas is getting in the coolant is to start it from cold with cap on and then take it off after only a few mins, before the coolant has had chance to pressurise and stat open.  Also look for signs of oil scum or smell of combustion gases

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2 hours ago, wesacosa said:

how quickly does the coolant rise? I was always told best way for checking if exhaust gas is getting in the coolant is to start it from cold with cap on and then take it off after only a few mins, before the coolant has had chance to pressurise and stat open.  Also look for signs of oil scum or smell of combustion gases

Quite quickly really. It's really common on these - as it thermostat failure.

Got a scrap price of £257(?) somehow - so this is going for scrap very soon unless someone comes and gives me £250. Still drives and nearly a years MOT.

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  • SmokinWaffle changed the title to Fiat Bravo - gone!

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