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The free Golf V5 now turns into money pit


Vince70

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Today I walked over the road to have a look at the Golf V5 and it started up on the first start of the key but wasn’t sure if I could hear what sounded like a knock from the bearings or just a 5 cylinder uneven burbling.

So I thought I would check the oil and found it had hardly anything on the dipstick and took the cap of to be greeted to what looked like black tar so guess it hasn’t had an oil change or the oil checked in the last 7 years since my Dad owned it 40000 miles ago.

The problem is now I’ve just bought the items to service it now and not sure what I should do to get rid of all the shite in the engine or if the engine has been damaged in any way.

I’m no mechanic but don’t mind doing the basics but what would be the first port of call as I was thinking of pulling the cam cover off and cleaning out what I can then putting the cover back on then putting some sea foam in the engine as flush and running it up to temperature and do an oil change.

I’ve just topped it up with some 10/40 I had sitting about and it now doesn’t sound bad but it might be wishful thinking so I was wondering what would you guys do first.

Also the interior is covered in mold spores even the radio and can’t work out why anyone would treat a car like that.

Its quite heartbreaking really as it was like brand new when my Dad had the car but as long as the engine isn’t damaged I will bring it back from the brink.

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Neglect is an absence of treating it, so don't worry about that too much.  If it sounds OK now it has oil in, get cleaning it up and you'll soon feel better about it.

 

A VR5 sounds like about the only interesting golf.  I'd love to see some pictures

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I would change the oil and filter and then change them again after 500 or 1000 miles. The air filter is probably solid with crap (or absent entirely) also. New plugs never hurt either. (But it is annoying that they usually are sold in sets of 4)

I don’t get car neglect like that, some people treat their cars as if they hate them.

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I'd steer clear of any oil flushing agents on a modern engine like that.  All it's likely to do is encourage chunks of crud to detach from wherever they're stuck and then end up blocking something far more critical.

I'd just go with cheap oil and do several changes in quick succession.  Worth noting that diesel engine oil has a higher detergent content so might be worth considering.

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Personally I'd use a cheap oil and filter before you use the proper stuff you've bought.

Something like a Crossland filter with triple qx stuff from ecp, take it for a long run then change again.

If you want to go to the effort of removing the rocker cover, it wouldn't be a bad idea.

Don't use a flush.

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9 minutes ago, stripped fred said:

The mould spores can be cleaned quite easily. I get that in my MR2 when it's been left for a while. I now keep the windows open a bit which helps to reduce it as it's due to damp and a lack of ventilation.

Yes, I use black mould killer, though this product also bleaches fabrics!

Vinegar and lemon juice, other mould products too, plus cloths, as mentioned above. You'll be ok.

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Put an oil with high detergent in it - diesel oil is best.

Flushing something that filthy is risky - you can give the engine the eqivalent of a thrombosis. Drop the oil and do it again in 1k.

I would flush the cooling system as well - it will benefit from having a flush.

Modern oil is brilliant stuff - when we had the vectra repaired the chap who did the job took a picture of the top end once the cam cover was removed - it was spotless despite being 13 years old and having 140k on the clock.

Sadly the photos show a car that absolutely reeks of neglect. I just hope the engine is'nt fubar.

 

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As everyone else has said, a couple of oil changes with the cheapest oil and change at 500-1k intervals, then the good stuff and it'll be reet. It has oil in as evidenced by the dipstick, so while the mistreatment may have shortened the working life statistically it will be something electrical, expensive suspension replacement, or rust which kills it before rumbling mains etc. ETA there's nothing on that video to suggest it's about to explode to death and take out an orphanage and a load of nuns carrying baskets of kittens.

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As said above, an oild change with some cheap semi oil and then change again after a short period. 

Getting oil jn 20ls will drop the costs of this.

If the rocker covers got any weeps id pop that off and wipe out any build up in the head snd replace the gasket. If its not leaking tho i wouldnt waste the money. 

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Cheers everyone for the help and Bren for putting my mind at rest over any horrible noises that the car might be making.

I’ve now bought two oil filters and 5 plugs for the old girl plus 4 litres of Semi Magnatec plus 4 litres of fully synthetic and an air and pollen filter so will give it a couple of oil changes.

Also it looks like it’s got a leak from the cam cover so might as well take it off and clean out the gunk but won’t know for sure till I get the cover off.

I was really worried as when I first checked the dipstick as  the oil was way below the minimum so I hope it hasn’t damaged anything and chucked about a litre and a half to two litres get it to the max 

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2 hours ago, Vince70 said:

The oil arrived today but I think I ordered the wrong stuff as I got  stop start oil and it’s not VW approved would it be okay to run the car for say 500 miles with this stuff in.

 

7ACD8E5B-5383-45E6-B5E4-35CEB6C6838F.jpeg

If it's the right grade it will be fine, although even that wouldn't really matter over 500 miles; the VW spec will just be asking for some african unicorn tears as an additive rather than european unicorn tears. It all gets a bit paisley pyjamas when they spec oil for oil change intervals over 10k, which as far as I'm concerned is barbarism anyway.

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I’m not sure if I should just change the oil a few times or take the cam cover off to and clean the head out on it beforehand but if I do that I’m worried If something will block up an oil way.

I’ve looked into taking the cover off and I need to remove the plastic cover and apparently I might have to take off the front bumper and move the slam panel forward to remove the intake manifold.

I need to take the plastic cover off anyway to do the plugs but I’m worried doing that I might enter a world of pain and snap some 22 year old plastic clips or snap a stud in the process doing the cover now.

So what would you guys do is it worth me taking the cam cover off.

Heres what what a V5 engine looks like (not mine) 

once the inlet manifold is removed 

 

401C776E-488E-4052-8F82-5D2382AE5A7F.jpeg

A8241BA0-1149-49C5-B34E-05BCB21987E7.jpeg

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