Erebus Posted October 15, 2022 Share Posted October 15, 2022 1 hour ago, Vantman said: No Noobtune for me, bad memories. Oh dear. Sorry to hear that. What happened? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erebus Posted October 15, 2022 Share Posted October 15, 2022 Damn, can see why you'd want to avoid that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercedade Posted October 19, 2022 Share Posted October 19, 2022 I have joined Club Saab, with my dad's 55 plate 9-5 2.3t in what is apparently 'Linear' trim. Very comfy, squashy place to be, but has the distinct feel of needing a lot of rubber things replaced. Extremely floaty I'm OK with, but wobbly and twitchy less so. cort1977 and Vantman 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercedade Posted November 24, 2022 Share Posted November 24, 2022 Has anyone fitted an aftermarket stereo to a 95? I've dealt with having to run extra switched wires in other cars before, but this one: - won't dim with headlights - won't retain memory settings (and no, it's not a 'switch the yellow and red' situation) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackers Posted November 24, 2022 Share Posted November 24, 2022 2 hours ago, mercedade said: Has anyone fitted an aftermarket stereo to a 95? I've dealt with having to run extra switched wires in other cars before, but this one: - won't dim with headlights - won't retain memory settings (and no, it's not a 'switch the yellow and red' situation) Yeah, I've just done a Sony one. The dimming is done through the SID/EBUS, the pin usually used for dimming on the ISO blocks is not pinned (third from left on the bottom row). AFAIK you therefore can't connect the dimming function to the car, so either leave it fully dimmed all the time or set the dimmer with a timer if the radio supports that. As for the memory settings I'm not sure what's up with that, I had to switch the yellow and red to make mine retain (the +15 pin should be switched live, +30 pin is permanent live, which is backwards to a standard ISO pinout). Double check you have swapped these over correctly (and, apologies if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs, but take the radio out of demo mode otherwise it'll reset itself every time it's switched off regardless). You will lose the steering wheel controls unless you get one of these:Manual gearbox only: https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/saab-9-3-9-5-1998-2005-steering-wheel-stalk-control-adaptor-ctssa002-2.htmlAuto or manual gearbox: https://reierparts.com/parts/steering-wheel-control-adapter-kit-for-saab-9-3og-and-9-5/ Check that your horn still works once the radio is installed as I think it's controlled by the same box of tricks that the wheel controls link to. mercedade 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Split_Pin Posted November 25, 2022 Share Posted November 25, 2022 I've got a real issue with water ingress in the brown 93 convertible at the moment. Normally with these it's the passenger footwell that gets wet but this time its the drivers. It's starting to form a puddle it's that bad. Absolutely sopping. I've sealed up everything I can see under the plastic scuttle panel and all 3 drains are super clean. This worked for a few months but now it's worse than ever. It's not coolant and the door seals are fine. I even checked the floor wasnt rusty, its perfectly fine. I'm not sure where to go from here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jazoli Posted November 25, 2022 Share Posted November 25, 2022 53 minutes ago, Split_Pin said: I've got a real issue with water ingress in the brown 93 convertible at the moment. Normally with these it's the passenger footwell that gets wet but this time its the drivers. It's starting to form a puddle it's that bad. Absolutely sopping. I've sealed up everything I can see under the plastic scuttle panel and all 3 drains are super clean. This worked for a few months but now it's worse than ever. It's not coolant and the door seals are fine. I even checked the floor wasnt rusty, its perfectly fine. I'm not sure where to go from here. Have you checked the AC drain? I definitely remember it dripping under the car when I had it, its between the bulkhead and the back of the engine and is a faff to get to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Split_Pin Posted November 25, 2022 Share Posted November 25, 2022 Thanks I will check that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercedade Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 Stereo was sorted on my 95 by running two spliced wires from the headlights switch - one for the dimming function, and one for the 12v. There was a really helpful online guide somewhere, written up as a PDF booklet. Love Saab nerds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brownnova Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 My 9000 has only covered 1500 miles since the last MoT (due at the end of March)… this is by far and away the lowest in the 6 years I’ve owned it. It used to be a 10-12k a year regular, but now I own more cars and live closer to work it gets out much less… mercedade and Split_Pin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercedade Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 After dealing with a dragging rear brake that may or may not be a sticking rear caliper - I'm undecided, but it certainly looks a little crusty around the piston, but the parking brake shoes also looked a little reluctant to move properly. In any case, it's all been apart, and the very dodgy looking rear bleed nipples have also been replaced - it was time to tackle a crappy gearbox/torque mount. How crappy? Took about 15 minutes, most of which was getting the ramps out and removing the undertray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercedade Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 However, the undertray remains removed as whilst I was under there, I spotted a coolant weep on the underside of the radiator. Can't see any leaks as yet, just a very small drip. Reluctant to immediately shift to 'it needs a new rad', but equally don't really want to take it all apart more than once. Anyone aware of any common weakspots? It's definitely not the heater valve, it's 100% coming from the rad area - but could be hose I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Split_Pin Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 Start high up first. It could be one of the crappy GM spring hose clamps that's losing its strength. mercedade 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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