Jump to content

RR P38


Alan Prost
 Share

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, Cooper1 said:

@Alan Prost

The P38 earnt it's unsavory reputation in the 90s and early 2000s when it was thought to be spaceship level complex the rest is found by people who have unfortunately bought one that has been neglected by people who think they can run them on a Micra budget

People look at them as "complex" this isn't the case a top spec MK7 Fiesta is more complex, P38's leccy bits don't throw fits for no reason, water ingress is usually enemy number 1. 

 

Another issue is people that unfortunately bought them when prices crashed, these types  leave little niggles until they're massive issues. 

Then they throw a temporary bandage on the issue and flog it on to someone to experience the pain!

The BECM doesn't act up unless it has had water introduced to it generally, usually leaking heater core O rings or leaking pollen filter covers saturates the carpet and the water wicks into the BECM and makes it go up the shitter.  

Air suspension again is thought to be massively complex, this isn't so the system is very easy to maintain a Valveblock rebuild every few years and a compressor rebuild every 2-3 years should see you right both those items can be done for less than £60  

Air bags are around £45 a corner, they have a service life of around 5-8yrs

EAS gets its unsavory reputation from neglect, the main issue is usually it takes a while to rise up or it sinks overnight, this isn't rectified in the early stages generally, people wait until its on the bumpstops with a EAS hard fault. 

And then the system is slated and instead of spending £260 ish on a complete EAS overhaul people spend £400 on a coil kit 🤨

 

HVAC system faults are known too, all of which are easy to rectify without removing the entire dash like some suggest 

Blend Motors 

Heater blowers 

Heater core O rings 

Are all easy to get at without major removal

 

Engine issues are shared from the RRC 

Look up RV8 issues! ;)

Transmissions and axles last the course 

The chassis and body doesn't disappear after a hard rain. 

 

Their reputation for being shit simply isn't the case, having owned a neglected one for over 3yrs I can tell you that even a bad one isn't too hard to pull back around. 

I know as much as there is to know about them after going through mine without a clue and just blind determination ;)

And to be fair if i hadn't of been going down the "trial and error" route in the beginning it would of been a good sight cheaper to fix! ;)

learn't from my mistake!!

mDcMAbhl.jpg

eK9lODPl.jpg 

EnlAt2rl.jpg

To this,. 

I8gPKW5l.jpg

0NlVnGAl.jpg

N31ENxkl.jpg

If you think it'll be cheaper than an Allegro to maintain then you'll be surprised, not in a good way! ;) 

Are they nowt but shit and cause nothing but problems? NO a properly maintained example is the best 4x4 you'll ever drive, the smiles per gallon are phenomenal

And if a skint thick as shit 20yr old can run one of these, anyone can! ;) 

the "massive expense" comes from people who have used main dealers or specialists to troubleshoot systems and fix. 

 

For example, will a mechanic charging an hourly rate, sit and rebuild an EAS block for £30? 

No of course not he'll fit  a brand new valveblock for £900 and charge accordingly.. 

The same for the compressor, £20 rebuild of £400 genuine replacement? 

 

when you look at it like that, you see why they're thought to be expensive to maintain! 

Will a specialist do the blend motors or heater O rings the simple way or will he insist the entire dash has to be removed along with the heater core to fix it? 

Massive labour bill anyone?! 

That is where the "expensive to maintain" mantra comes from, if you do it yourself the cost is just the parts, which in P38 circles are quite cheap.. 

Nanocom is a great piece of kit to have and IMO is a necessity for the P38 £400 this is quite a bite in the wallet, but it pays for itself in a few months!

 

 

 

This is the sort of straight cut, no-nonsense approach to vehicle maintenance that i have come to hate. It makes it so hard to argue against buying one!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/4/2021 at 12:57 PM, Broadsword said:

I'm very jealous of your cloth seats and manual gearbox. Wish mine had them!!! I actually covet a P38 DT, but I haven't been able to find a decent one that is as reliable as my DSE auto.

As an owner of a P-plate 2.5 diesel auto for well over two years now and 3 MOTs, they can be made good and reliable, but it is a commitment. First thing is to buy as good as possible an example you can get. Spend more buying a good one and I guarantee you will save money almost immediately. The chassis is very thick steel on the P38, totally unlike the Discovery 1/2 (which will actually snap in half), so rot isn't a real concern. With the diesel look out for injector pump issues. Other than that it is really the electricals and air suspension to be look out for.

To get mine reliable it took a new starter motor, new alternator, a damn good service, new viscous engine fan, chasing down small electrical gremlins, gearbox service and crucially the often ignored failing in-tank fuel pump. If you see air bubbles in the clear fuel lines in the engine bay, it could be indication of the in-tank fuel pump failing. People seem to rush to rebuilding the injector pump first though, which had been done on mine prior to me buying it. I also highlight the importance of having the correct lead-acid battery to help these run well. The various modules in the car are very sensitive to voltage drops and the alternator will not charge a silver-calcium type battery properly. Often people fork out for a fancy expensive battery and the car just kills it slowly. A big plus is if like in the post above the immobiliser has been disabled at a software level, it will save you a great deal of hassle. Most want a BeCM rebuild by now also, which mine has had done already

If you are keen there is a wealth of knowledge and they aren't actually horrible to work on.

I do some videos on the P38 for my little YouTube channel. Here is a brief buyer's guide type thing, which you may find useful:

 

Already watched this a few times so thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/4/2021 at 2:52 AM, 124Cab said:

I have a 98 BMW 6 cylinder 2.5 manual in Rioja red which I love dearly and intend on keeping a very long time. It's one of the better ones and I specifically chose a life long national trust member poverty spec car with manual cloth seats, manual gearbox, no wood cappings on the doors etc etc. Full history. Yarnolds Land Rover dealer number plates. Been tucked away most of 2020 but will get it out of hibernation when lockdown finally does one for good.

It's been converted to  coil springs which I see as a must if you want no fuss and drama in your life. It's bit rolly poly in comparison to air ride but more akin to the many RR Classics I've had, which is no bad thing.  Just my opinion!

Fitted Y2K lights and Hurricanes but have kept the gingercators and 16"s in the garage for a rainy day.

I average just shy of 30mpg (real)/(34mpg trip computer) on mixed driving, much of which is down to the manual gearbox I'd imagine. R380 Disco/Defender type. Quite agricultural but that's what gives it character.  BMW 6 cyl unit really sings with the manual gearbox as you can hang on to the gears. Fitted with a PSI tuning chip which helps performance quite remarkably but apparently these ruin the already weak autos when fitted. 

HVAC system is simple enough once you commit to chopping a good part of the inner center console away for ease of access. Same goes for matrix o rings.

BECM rebuild is a few hundred at various specialists now.  Old school tech, nothing scary.  Quite a few people now specialize in these. Bugger when it goes but easily fixed and plug in. 

I've turned off my immobiliser and alarm at diagnostics level so have old fashioned keys with no chip/remote locking or drama now. It's now not endlessly checking itself and not not going to sleep when left for a week plus. £11 to cut a replacement no chip key blank as opposed to £250 from LR for a remote flip fob (they won't supply a valet key any longer). I have other forms of security before anyone chimes in 😉

I can cope with the electrical niggles as I'm not welding the bugger every 6 months! Ask me how I learnt that the hard way...

My father always ran these when I was young and has two currently, one at 210k and its replacement on 125k. He estimated the 210k car cost him five grand over eight years he ran it for to keep reliable, and on air, which I think wasn't too bad considering how much these things were when new. He swears by them as they are supremely capable for living in the middle of the remote countryside.

I'd recommend you choose wisely and do it before they start to rise in value, which inevitably they will looking at almost everything else LR related.

Mine has not yet nor imminently looking to financially ruin my life. Learn how to be handy with a spanner and get the appropriate software and you're already ahead of the game.  

For perspective I paid £1200 for mine so the overall risk is minimal. Price me up an R plate Defender TDI or perhaps a late N plate sofdash RR? Both absolute bastards in their own ways and hugely expensive to buy, run and maintain. 

I'd love a V8 but I've not got shares in BP!

IMG_20190617_184005119_HDR.jpg

IMG_20190618_161156404_HDR.jpg

IMG_20190618_161216979_HDR.jpg

IMG_20190618_161452864_HDR.jpg

20191217_171510.jpg

 

 

 

 

Just the sort of thing, non leather and a stick.... love it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I considered one - but due to reports similar to those found in this thread I decided against it.
Instead I bought the X5 3.0i.
All I can say is that some of the issues are the same as they are very much the same underneath. Electrical issues certainly are a bugbear, rear air bags and BM54 module.
 

Even though mine is only a straight six the mpg is around 16 - 24mpg. The V* version from BMW is around 8 - 14mpg. 

Old 4x4s of the era, by the time we get hold of them will have been neglected and maintained only by distress. This of course leads to some of the issues then encountered. Like me, it then takes time and  money to sort.

The return is a lovely driving position and a good solid car beneath you and the noise of the car - especially if a petrol V8.

You pay your money and take your chance. Just try to find the best you can for your budget.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, hennabm said:

I considered one - but due to reports similar to those found in this thread I decided against it.
Instead I bought the X5 3.0i.
All I can say is that some of the issues are the same as they are very much the same underneath. Electrical issues certainly are a bugbear, rear air bags and BM54 module.
 

Even though mine is only a straight six the mpg is around 16 - 24mpg. The V* version from BMW is around 8 - 14mpg. 

Old 4x4s of the era, by the time we get hold of them will have been neglected and maintained only by distress. This of course leads to some of the issues then encountered. Like me, it then takes time and  money to sort.

The return is a lovely driving position and a good solid car beneath you and the noise of the car - especially if a petrol V8.

You pay your money and take your chance. Just try to find the best you can for your budget.

I would have thought an X5 would have more in common with an L322 than a P38 ? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, hennabm said:

I considered one - but due to reports similar to those found in this thread I decided against it.
Instead I bought the X5 3.0i.
All I can say is that some of the issues are the same as they are very much the same underneath. Electrical issues certainly are a bugbear, rear air bags and BM54 module.
 

Even though mine is only a straight six the mpg is around 16 - 24mpg. The V* version from BMW is around 8 - 14mpg. 

Old 4x4s of the era, by the time we get hold of them will have been neglected and maintained only by distress. This of course leads to some of the issues then encountered. Like me, it then takes time and  money to sort.

The return is a lovely driving position and a good solid car beneath you and the noise of the car - especially if a petrol V8.

You pay your money and take your chance. Just try to find the best you can for your budget.

On another twist I am now looking at a 325ti, total opposite to a P38, it's just dealing with the risk which in turn equals money.........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Here's the one I had. Loved it to bits. Usual HVAC error which I ignored. Suspension was fine. As Cooper 1 said only had to rebuild the compressor which was cheap and straightforward. I think it was on about 180k??  before it was scrapped. The top hose failed, so I replaced all of thise, then the thermostat want and the engine was cooked. The engine cooked it self in the middle of my gates so I didn't have far to get home! If that hadn't happened I would still have it. I would definitely have no issues in getting another. I would say get the 4.6 rather than the 4.0lt (mine was 4.0lt). 

IMG_20200812_193259_01.jpg

In winter I used to wear a sheepskin coat so I felt like a 3rd division football manager in it! 

Edited by burraston2006
Spelling
Link to comment
Share on other sites

owned 3 RR classics, and would love a P38 in westminster Blue with the cream leather with matching piping..either 2.5 dizzel or the 4.0 with LPG..

problem is theres only me, and can't really justify buying a 4x4 :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, bezzabsa said:

owned 3 RR classics, and would love a P38 in westminster Blue with the cream leather with matching piping..either 2.5 dizzel or the 4.0 with LPG..

problem is theres only me, and can't really justify buying a 4x4 :(

yes you can! 😉😁🤣

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Noel Tidybeard said:

yes you can! 😉😁🤣

I COULD......but Living on ESA & PIP means I have to save for bloody months to even afford services n shit, plus living in a High rise means parked in an open space and nowhere to work on it..

when i owned the RR's I lived in a house with a decent drive, and of course ready access to 240Volts when needed..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My last one, a2.5dse auto which was a very relaxed drive

Bought for £500 with a skipping transfer box drive chain,which I knew about and cost £100 for a good replacement 

And a permanently lit abs light which I wasn't told about untill I got there

That turned out to be a front sensor loose in the hub,little araldite applied and that was that

Usual hvac book symbol on the display,but everything else worked fine once I'd disconnected the rf aerial to allow the car to sleep properly 

This was the wifes "favourite piece of chod I'd ever bought",so high praise indeed

p38%20002_zps5kefyw4o.jpg

p38%20008_zpswrxthojz.jpg

p38%20005_zpsjmiazkux.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/23/2021 at 12:20 PM, Minimad5 said:

Localish to me and I loved the colours, I could cope with the farm look but not for what they are asking!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They're good motors. 

Lets not forget even the youngest is tipping over the 20yr old mark!! 

 

I wouldn't have anything else now! 🤪 

I'm a V8 freak so in my opinion there is no substitute for the power the V8 has, or hasn't depending on your point of view.. ;) 

X7jjR13l.jpg

 

Go on! 

Do It GIFs - Get the best GIF on GIPHY

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do it!

Just pulled this one out of a 3yr hibernation and it flew through the MOT with some handbrake adjustment and an ARB link.

It's approximately 200% more watertight than the Porsche which means I can forgive its 12mpg thirst.. for a few months at least.

Electrics are nothing to be feared as 9 times out of 10 you can just unplug the offending module (in my case a drivers door lock) and replace it for peanuts. There are so many out there breaking that parts have never been an issue.

Basically it's the most comfiest magic carpet riding thing around and is my number 1 car of all time.

IMG_9443.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd weirdly like a Diesel version, but limited research shows they seem to suffer with HGF.

I've done a few headgaskets in my time, but can you still get a brand new Cylinder head (as they apparently crack) ??

And as I say- They're out of my budget, for now 🤷‍♂️

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're  looking at this:

P38 Spares or Repair

Bloke flogging it kindly uploaded this:

 

First few seconds ahow the holes in the boot floor - Seems to be quite a lot of grot in this, but potentially manageable?.

The reason for the video is he mentioned that the water was bubbling (which he failed to video), pretty hard to tell but do we think it could be HGF from that steam/ smoke / warmed up condensation ?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Minimad5 said:

If you're  looking at this:

P38 Spares or Repair

Bloke flogging it kindly uploaded this:

 

First few seconds ahow the holes in the boot floor - Seems to be quite a lot of grot in this, but potentially manageable?.

The reason for the video is he mentioned that the water was bubbling (which he failed to video), pretty hard to tell but do we think it could be HGF from that steam/ smoke / warmed up condensation ?

 

Without looking at the expansion tank it’s a bit tricky to know for sure, ideally you would want to see bright red antifreeze/coolant in there.

the m51 engines tend to suffer if the cooling system has been neglected ie run without antifreeze. 
 

if I had to guess I would say it had over heating issues prior to being parked up, 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...