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Ruff's Merc Coupe Auto; searching for pastures new...


ruffgeezer

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Delivered to me, hassle free by @worldofceri, utterly spot on.

That's where the good bit has stopped for the time being as after a few runs out, there's diesel escaping under the bonnet. 

IMG_20201213_131849.thumb.jpg.fdfd6cd7ab82c98d7479509b733126f7.jpg

I shall have to have a look tomorrow as to the cause, along with rectifying the open door warning. 

At speed the wind still howls through the top of the door frame so I've to see what if any adjustments can be made to close that gap up. 

IMG_20201213_131858.thumb.jpg.cfa7f34e7e57bac672c32ba1115f42d6.jpg

I've cancelled the auto locking as it was proving to be a pain in the arse. 

 

I've managed to get it taxed, and hope that I can get its issues addressed before I am unable later in the month. 

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On 12/13/2020 at 10:54 PM, ruffgeezer said:

Delivered to me, hassle free by @worldofceri, utterly spot on.

That's where the good bit has stopped for the time being as after a few runs out, there's diesel escaping under the bonnet. 

IMG_20201213_131849.thumb.jpg.fdfd6cd7ab82c98d7479509b733126f7.jpg

I shall have to have a look tomorrow as to the cause, along with rectifying the open door warning. 

At speed the wind still howls through the top of the door frame so I've to see what if any adjustments can be made 

Didn’t the car get some ‘trade’ attention.  Be good if a DIY fix can rectify what the trade couldn’t.

As for the door, try some production line techniques such as your knee against the door pad below the window and a good tug of the appropriate force on the top of the frame.  If you overdo it, then the force used was inappropriate.  

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22 hours ago, Isaac Hunt said:

Didn’t the car get some ‘trade’ attention.  Be good if a DIY fix can rectify what the trade couldn’t.

Well I had a look back at when @Wingz123serviced the car earlier in the year...

20200628_092254.jpg

In particular we're looking at the wee sensor just above the fuel rail on the bottom right of the picture which looks absolutely fine in his pictures, so no worries there.

This is how I found it today after it's recent stay in a garage in Cov...

IMG_20201216_161651.thumb.jpg.6e8ee11fea4d4e1376f1319f09017d56.jpg

The recently replaced fuel filter gets some scrutiny too, I didn't recall mention of its pipes being in bad order when I read Ken's thread before and indeed, Wingz' picture shows he had no issue getting a new filter fitted.

20200628_100718.jpg

 

Strange how now there's a different filter at home, swimming in diesel with a bodging strap applied to keep the pipe on.

IMG_20201216_161654.thumb.jpg.3bddddedc28a2d77150c6f9e5dab958a.jpg

 

Now these engines are prone to o ring failure, brittle pipes and the HP pump leaking, but with all the shit that has happened here, I'm not sure where to be starting, I need to ID the sensor, and replace the LP pipe from the filter housing to the HP pump.

IMG_20201216_161659.thumb.jpg.7f9e58300e9bedd3fb3ebb2d233578fc.jpg

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Whats the latest with this!? And all the moaning?? It went into a garage to have a glowplug helicoiled i believe....?? 

Ran well after I serviced it for Ken. Though to be fair it ran well before that too. Drove all the way back from Consett (miles away). Had I checked where this was before going I never would have gone! Frickin miles away 

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24 minutes ago, Wingz123 said:

Whats the latest with this!? And all the moaning?? It went into a garage to have a glowplug helicoiled i believe....?? 

Ran well after I serviced it for Ken. Though to be fair it ran well before that too. Drove all the way back from Consett (miles away). Had I checked where this was before going I never would have gone! Frickin miles away 

 

As I understand it from Ken's posts, it went into a garage to have the door adjusted and some O-rings fitted in the fuel system to see if that addressed the occasional poor starts.

The workmanship is evidenced by comparing my pictures from today with those that you took when you serviced it; someone has been busy under the bonnet since.

I must confess I was pissed off at first, but I do not aim that at you @Wingz123or Ken, if I'm understanding his posts correctly, he had paid somebody to work on it since you who has been rather ham fisted with it. It'll have to be dealt with at some point, when I am able.

 

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  • ruffgeezer changed the title to Ruff's Merc Coupe Auto; "Puddles"

Coventry garage looks to have replaced filter in desperation to sort the problem and messed it up.  I've not done merc fuel filters before but heard the clips can be tricky.

Same Coventry garage has damaged that sensor, probably in a bodged attempt to replace it.

Firstly I would replace those things properly before you do anything else.

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5 hours ago, ruffgeezer said:

Buckled and ordered some parts from Mercedes earlier, cheaper than the part worn shit on ebay though which was a nice surprise. 

Surprisingly MB main dealers can be quite reasonable on certain items. It very much pays to get a copy of the workshop manual and obtain the correct MB part number. This then allows you the get a feel for the price elsewhere before calling Mercedes. Oh, and the main dealer I use very kindly gives 10% of for my 'older' Mercedes if I ask nicely.

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Is that white thing a sensor? Doesn't look like any wires going to it from the pictures. 

If it isn't, I wonder if it's some sort of automatic air purge valve? Like the things you get on central heating systems and the like where it lets air out but not fuel. 

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After a bit of googling I found this parts diagram:

Screenshot_20201222-171812.thumb.png.c9866446f9813425d904b85c5ed81b19.png

Looks like the centre bit is removable/replaceable. I wonder if you are supposed to remove that section to allow air to bleed through most of the fuel lines, to give the HP pump an easier life after changing the filter. Would explain why it's broken if someone has fiddled with the fuel filter again. Garage ham-fisted the new filter in and then broke off the end of that when trying to remove it. 

Possibly don't even need to replace it, maybe just needs pushing in some more?

I wonder if the grey ring twists, turns or pulls out and then the centre section is removable? If so, possibly the garage didn't do that when trying to remove it. Or maybe you're supposed to push it in when the ignition is on so the low pressure fuel pump can allow fuel to purge through. 

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Someone has cut the zip tie on the end of the fuel rail that held some of the wire loom in place. Question is why. Has something around there been removed or got at by the garage. Presumably the glow plugs are down there? Maybe they've had the fuel rail off too. 

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On 12/16/2020 at 9:58 PM, Agila said:

I've not done merc fuel filters before but heard the clips can be tricky.

The plastic fittings, after >15 years often go brittle.  All the plastic pipes on C250/E300 OM605 and OM606 engines are primed and ready to snap the moment you try to disturb them.  That along with rock-hard O-rings everywhere means it's just easier to change them for new.  When they've lasted 20 years, £100 isn't a lot.

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Thinking back to a conversation I had with Nigel of Spilsby Road Garage, he mentioned about the door card being needed to extinguish the "door open" light. 

At the time I dismissed it, as I knew my door card was fitted. It wasn't until this morning that I looked closer and realised there is a sizable bit of trim missing from the door card that would operate directly on the door switch. I hope that it is still in the car somewhere, other wise I'll have to get one bought from a breaker. 

Interestingly* the door light doesn't work from that side either. 

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That's a really interesting tid bit. Many modern cars (read German) activates the low pressure fuel pump when opening the driver's door. This gets the system primed ready for starting as most people don't hold the key on without starting for long enough to properly prime. 

Maybe this is one of the contributing factors of being hard to start from being sat? If it thinks it's always open, it won't activate when the drivers door is opened. 

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A pretty good motor when sorted, even if they do get some niggling issues (like the alternator voltage regulator)

I have a sedan, dizzler badermatic with the later OM646 engine. It's my modern/parts runner for the old Audi. Over 300k miles and still pretty reliable 

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For the love of all that is still good in the world, do not remove the door card if you don't absolutely have to! What bit is missing? Can you take a photo of the door card and latch area and I can advise vs mine? Removal and refitting of the DC is no fun at all on a W203 wagon, I can't imagine the coupe is any easier.

EDIT - yes thats the bit I was expecting - its held on with one torx bolt and seems to be a cosmetic thing rather than any actual use. It just hides the slightly ugly cut-out bit around the latch area.

I don't know what they're called but it looks identical to the saloon/wagon version and is easy to remove so ought to be cheap.

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