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Classic mini (Tina) I will get her finished


garellikatia

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I think if the cover is ok, fingers not worn or grooved etc, I'd only replace the friction plate. 

Obviously on anything else, you'd do a full clutch kit.  But on a Verto-clutch'd Mini, the whole assembly including the flywheel is balanced from the factory, hence just replacing the friction plate won't upset that.  If you replace everything, it needs to be dynamically balanced off the car.  There are only so many people that can do that.  Of course, you might get lucky and it would all be fine... or it might rattle your fillings out over 3000rpm!

Certainly on my 1983 City E, I used the original cover, fitted a new AP plate, release bearing and clutch seal.  It's been fine for the last few years.

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12 hours ago, High Jetter said:

Good work, that puller looks ok. Driven plate is worn, trust you're changing the other bits too.  Camera focus needs work though :)

Haha yea absolutely, my phone camera is really crap tbh but I don't trust myself with anything decent.  I sat in a hot tub with my last iPhone in my pocket. Then the previous one l left on the car roof haha!! 

 

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1 hour ago, Rusty_Rocket said:

I think if the cover is ok, fingers not worn or grooved etc, I'd only replace the friction plate. 

Obviously on anything else, you'd do a full clutch kit.  But on a Verto-clutch'd Mini, the whole assembly including the flywheel is balanced from the factory, hence just replacing the friction plate won't upset that.  If you replace everything, it needs to be dynamically balanced off the car.  There are only so many people that can do that.  Of course, you might get lucky and it would all be fine... or it might rattle your fillings out over 3000rpm!

Certainly on my 1983 City E, I used the original cover, fitted a new AP plate, release bearing and clutch seal.  It's been fine for the last few years.

Thanks for the advice! That's definitely the plan I'm going to take. The other parts are in pretty much in good condition, so just going to replace the frictional plate, seal and bearing. Fingers crossed it doesn't rattle any more than it does haha!! 

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With the clutch and flywheel off I puller off the primary gear with my fairly rare Sykes pickevant puller. Very simple in design but did the job with ease and having the engine in situ, it makes replacing the oil seal easier. 

 

Having a nightmare now though and I don't know how it has even happened but I threaded the crankshaft bolt back in to keep it safe, but somehow the threads are a little chewed and cross threaded a little.

Not sure whether this is from previous ownership but I believe this is the original clutch. 

So it could be me being hamfisted . I used the protective caps over the flywheel puller too so I'm a bit annoyed. 

Regardless I slit the bolt on the edges to try and make a chaser but it just feels like it's still crossthreading. 

The thread for the tap is very odd too it's a  5/8 x 16 tpi whitworth. I've managed to find one for £10 but it's carbon steel. Touch wood it will be strong enough to sort the threads out! 

 

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23 minutes ago, Mally said:

FYI,  a tap at Mini Spares costs £63.  https://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Accessories/Tools/TOOL25.aspx?0108&ReturnUrl=/product/classic/TOOL07.aspx|Back to

I'd chance the cheap one but be very careful.

I'll have one somewhere, but I'll never find it.

Thanks mate, luckily there's a chap on the mini forum who rents tools, so I will probably rent it, for the sake of £10+ vat, postage etc... At least I know it will do the job, instead of the lesser carbon steel jobbie I originally considered

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So being a tight wad I went against better judgement and just bough the £10 CS Tap. I ran the tap down the crank nose last night and it's still very tight. I used the old two steps forward one step backwards technique. But the tap doesn't actually have any swarf on it. And looking down the end of the crank nose, there's no sign of any swarf either. This is probably good as I didn't intend on cutting a new thread, just clean up the original. I'm also wondering whether the threads were actually damaged or whether the threads in there are tight in general. The tap goes in the length of the bolt threads but I'm going to to add the keyed washer tonight as advised by chaps on the miniforum and see if the whole bolt will tighten down in the taper. Not too tight of course because the flywheel is still off, so I can't really lock anything in place. 

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Good luck.  I would have thought the cheap tap should be fine as you were only trying to clean the thread, not cut it.

I will say that when they are ok, the bolt easily spins in by hand.  I'm not sure what's up with yours but maybe the hole is distorted and tightening things up?  I too would would just try to tighten things up and hope for the best...

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7 hours ago, Rusty_Rocket said:

Good luck.  I would have thought the cheap tap should be fine as you were only trying to clean the thread, not cut it.

I will say that when they are ok, the bolt easily spins in by hand.  I'm not sure what's up with yours but maybe the hole is distorted and tightening things up?  I too would would just try to tighten things up and hope for the best...

Thanks mate, it seems like the tap was successful in cleaning up the threads as I put the bolt back in and it’s glides in really smooth all the way I’m, so the cheap tap did the trick. Just a matter of doing the oil seal now and bolting it all back together. Fingers crossed! 

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