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Maestro, please. - Winga Dinga


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you are mistaken about the larger radiator- they got smaller, the new one you got is the same size as was fitted to my 1984 1.3 bASe

the fan switch retainer was same as your original one though

the fan switch should come on at 101℃  and go off at 92℃ if memory serves me well

88 is thermostat opening

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the fan switch does not put the light on

the temp on your car did not get remotely close to overheating!

i don't think you let the temp go high enough for fan to need to be on ergo switch didn't (overheating is in the orange shaded bit)

gauge should sit one mark below or on center of gauge and rise to about 2 marks above before the fan comes out to play

your "new" rad cap is missing a seal where the old one was blue

this is based on a  maestro1.3 base, 1.6 base montego, mg maestro 2.0 EFi & montego 2.0 GSi

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It's difficult to record absolutely everything that happens as it happens so as for the system not getting hot enough for the fan to come on, it absolutely did.  I had the gauge with the needle almost at the far right of the gauge and still no fan.  I had it hot enough you could hear the coolant boiling.  It was plenty hot enough for the fan to come on, I just didn't fiddle about with the camera to record it since, you know, the car was overheating and that was bad.

The old cap didn't seal, the new one does.  The new one is therefore better even if it's not correct.

You're correct, fan switch doesn't do anything with the temp gauge.  Trying to explain what's going on while it's going on and remember what I said for the write up and the video... I get muddled.  Fan switch only operates the fan, when it gets to X temperature bimetallic switch closes, fan comes on.  When it gets to X temperature bimetallic switch opens, fan goes off.  Unfortunately, mine is having the issue that the switch has no bearing on what the fan is doing because the electrical connection is being broken before it gets to the switch.  So all I can do is see stuff is getting too hot and that the fan isn't coming on and try and find the issue.

This was a messy video and write up in all honesty.  It was a difficult one to record and the images don't show the whole story.  You'll just have to take my word for it that the switches were duff, the car did get plenty hot enough, and the problem with the fan unreliability is with the wiring.  Having driven the car in stop-start traffic (something I don't have the means to record just yet) proved that the car could easily get too hot for the fan to come on, and that the fan would go on and off totally randomly, we're talking anything from a staccato burst of on-off, to refusing to come on, to coming on as normal and going off when the temperature dropped as normal.  There's definitely an issue in the connectivity between switch and wiring.

Anyway.  Bodge employed for now and that's just fine.  I'm not currently driving the car anyway because I haven't got welding gas to finish the bodywork off and get it in for an MoT.  I have too much shit to do.

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if you are going to use the "bodge" just keep the wire in door pocket and deploy as needed you'll prolly find just driving normal won't have it get too hot whereas driving with fan on will keep it too cool for most of the time

try looking at the temp thermistor in head fro strange gauge/light behavior

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  • vulgalour changed the title to Maestro, please. - Bonnet and Jets
  • 5 weeks later...

In the most recent Maestro video, I fixed a couple of issues.  The first was the bonnet.


This corner is the worst bit.  After I'd been driving the car for a while, rust started to appear and a few bits of filler dropped off.  The alignment is pretty poor on this corner too.  I know it's had a minor bump on this corner and it looks like the edge of the bonnet got shoved in.  Panel beating on the wing this corner suggests that got damaged, and a home made bracket on the headlight certainly reinforces the suspicion.  Damage doesn't run too deep, seems to be entirely superficial, so it doesn't really worry me.  You can see from the side that it's also pushed the bonnet back along its length so it has an odd shape, being a bit too short and much to curved.  The wing is also distorted along its length, curving away from the bonnet. The metal on the Maestro is very thin so it deforms really easily, it doesn't take a lot to put damage like this into a panel.



Not to worry, it's just four bolts to undo and unplugging the hose from the washer jets.


Don't forget to put a couple of squares of cardboard under the rear corners of the bonnet when you're doing this on your own, it'll save your paint.


Incredibly light panel considering it's all steel, and lifts away easily.  Just small enough to not be cumbersome, and quick enough to remove that if I ever did need full access to the engine it's easily got.


The washer jets need a little press from a screwdriver on one side of the stalk on the underside of the bonnet and they come out.  The ones on my old bonnet are in good shape, the new one not so much, so a swap was deemed suitable.  To fit, simply push them into the hole.  They're not brilliant, being just single jet types, and I could upgrade to Citroen misters, but they'll do just fine for the foreseeable.


New bonnet drops in the hole well enough.  It's got its own problems, namely a really shallow dent right in the middle from storage (before Peter or I got it) but is overall in much better condition.  It also has a better curve on the front edge, something I didn't notice had been flattened out a bit on the old bonnet until it was removed.  It's a slightly different red which is much more apparent on camera, in person it's close enough you don't notice it.  This Maestro is Targa Red, the spare panels are off a car that was one of the two Flame Reds.  It does highlight how wrong the shape of the drivers side wing is with a straight bonnet fitted.


That done, attention could turn to the rear washer jet.  The front still worked just fine, a little fine adjustment to get them squirting to the right spot and nothing else required.  The rear jet hadn't worked when I got the car, the motor would run and you could see fluid in the line, but nothing at the back. Removed the one-way valve to check for flow and promptly broke it.  Also found that there was no flow in either direction through the one-way valve, so that was our main culprit.  Ordered a replacement and just plugged the washer line back onto the motor until it arrived.


I wasn't getting any washer fluid in the car or the headlining, which is good.  The washer line for the rear goes through the bulkhead and up into the roof, presumably up the driver's side A pillar, and then pops out at the back near the tailgate hinge.


It then goes into the tailgate, down the driver's side, and connects to the wiper motor mechanism to get to the washer jet on the tailgate.  I'm not sure my rear washer jet is proper, it's made of brass and looks decidedly home made.


Now I had a clear line, I was only getting the barest dribble out of the washer jet so I decided to remove it to see if it was blocked.  Unscrew the jet portion, and then the square bit that's screwed into the wiper arm boss.  I don't remember what the other Maestros I had were equipped with, I'm sure it wasn't this.  Anyway, it was pretty obvious the jet was blocked once it was removed.


Since I was getting fluid all the way to the back of the car I thought rather than pulling the hose out and all the work that entailed, I'd see if the motor was strong enough to just clear whatever blockages might be in the line.  Happily, after an initial splutter, it did just that and I now had excellent flow.


I also had a whole lot of black gunky stuff on the floor that had been spat out of the line. and more that came out of the brass jet parts in the ultrasonic cleaner.



Reassembled everything with just a hint of WD40 which I've found useful for preventing cross threading of brass pieces, and we now had a fully functioning rear wash wipe set up.



A little while later, the new non-return valve arrived, much slimmer than the old one, and I fitted that too.  Now the line stays primed and I don't have the wiper sweeping the rear screen without water so I shouldn't prematurely destroy blades or scratch the rear screen.


Nice easy wins.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • vulgalour changed the title to Maestro, please. - Winga Dinga

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