chompy_snake 833 Posted October 16, 2020 Author Share Posted October 16, 2020 4 hours ago, Agila said: Winston and lupo are both surnames in law and order. Do I win a bag of nowt for the boot? Nope it's more to do with the loose translation of Lupo .... No bag of nowt I'm afraid 😆 Link to post Share on other sites
Agila 1618 Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 1 minute ago, chompy_snake said: Nope it's more to do with the loose translation of Lupo .... No bag of nowt I'm afraid 😆 Oh right. Like winston wolf from pulp fiction. spartacus 1 Link to post Share on other sites
chompy_snake 833 Posted October 16, 2020 Author Share Posted October 16, 2020 3 hours ago, cobblers said: Get your head up under the dash and check the pedal box isn't cracked where the clutch pedal mounts - If it hasn't been replaced, it will crack and your clutch will fall off! You can apparently bodge weld them in situ. Noticed clutch pedal is a little creaky will have a proper inspection soon. Have already done brake light switch because EPC light .... Funnily enough I got it from ECP for less than a tenner 👍🏻 Link to post Share on other sites
chompy_snake 833 Posted October 16, 2020 Author Share Posted October 16, 2020 2 minutes ago, Agila said: Oh right. Like winston wolf from pulp fiction. Now you can have the bag of nowt 👍🏻 Link to post Share on other sites
Agila 1618 Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 1 minute ago, chompy_snake said: Now you can have the bag of nowt 👍🏻 Please don't ever pass up the opportunity when on the phone to say "it's 30 minutes away, I'll be there in 90, it's a 1.0 lupo ffs" when arranging to go visit somewhere. angle, Parky, Mr Laurence and 2 others 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites
chompy_snake 833 Posted October 17, 2020 Author Share Posted October 17, 2020 We have compression test results .... Not good, but not the end of the world. Dry test Cylinder 1, 124psi. Cylinder 2, 175 psi. Cylinder 3, 176psi. Cylinder 4, 176psi. Wet test on cylinder 1 brings the compression in line with the other 3 cylinders. Now the other thing of note is that it holds pressure well so I would suspect rings or bore on cylinder 1. Best way forward is what's really at question here.... New engine or repair what's in there as otherwise good bar cylinder 1 🤷 No intention of binning it so that's a good start point. cobblers 1 Link to post Share on other sites
cobblers 10383 Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 Fucking hell man, you don't have a lot of luck do you! If it's any consolation, the front end of these comes to pieces quickly and it's a pretty straightforward engine change. Fair play to you for sticking with it, by now a lot of people would have sacked it off and been down to Stoneacre to PCP a nice troublefree Corsa or something Dave_Q and spartacus 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites
chompy_snake 833 Posted October 17, 2020 Author Share Posted October 17, 2020 5 minutes ago, cobblers said: Fucking hell man, you don't have a lot of luck do you! Fair play to you for sticking with it, by now a lot of people would have sacked it off and been down to Stoneacre to PCP a nice troublefree Corsa or something Been there and done that, not happening again 😆 For the payments I was making I reckon it should be about 8 weeks to fully repair 👍🏻 then should* be trouble free Link to post Share on other sites
Agila 1618 Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 I'd do nothing with it until virtually terminal. You could quite possibly run it until test date in December. Chuck a test at it and decide from there. Gives you some financial breathing room and to decide on your options. #still better than a corsa Vince70, chompy_snake, Dick Longbridge and 2 others 5 Link to post Share on other sites
Parky 14854 Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 Incredibly we may have a situation where Quentin Wilson’s snake oil with particles could have a raison d’etre https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BEST-ENGINE-ADDITIVE-AMETECH-ENGINE-RESTORER-250ml-Reduce-Oil-Burn-Blue-Smoke-/264482944450?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 Stanky 1 Link to post Share on other sites
MJK 24 157 Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 My aunty has had one of these little German hot rods from new. It too started to misfire at idle and never ran on ‘4’. At the time it had only done 33,000 miles. Every one of them going to either church or Tesco’s. Anyway, I got the compression tester out and cylinder 2 was around 115psi and the others were around 180. They are known for burning valves out so I got an inlet and exhaust from Volkswagen TPS plus the necessary gasket kit, bolts, belts etc. Did the job in my igloo like garage one weekend between Christmas and New Year. I nearly succumbed to the elements but hope kept me going. Anyway, you can imagine I was borderline euphoric when I started it up and it was still running on 3 after a day and a half and £150! The coil was fucked.... dome, SiC, chompy_snake and 5 others 6 2 Link to post Share on other sites
chompy_snake 833 Posted October 17, 2020 Author Share Posted October 17, 2020 What's got me puzzled is that on the tester it maintains the 124psi dry and almost 180psi wet. I would hazard a guess at it being rings rather than valve train ..... But can a blown valve guide cause this result? Link to post Share on other sites
bunglebus 14041 Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 I just want to know how you found one at that price. I've been looking and tatty sheds are twice as much. The hunt continues... Link to post Share on other sites
SiC 20185 Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 50 minutes ago, bunglebus said: I just want to know how you found one at that price. I've been looking and tatty sheds are twice as much. The hunt continues... Because it's bought broken! I'm not sure why you keep buying cars with known engine faults @chompy_snake?! Faults like this is going to be a high probability that someone has changed a coil before, given up at that point and sell it on cheap. Hence my comment about compression testing it before going to far and start throwing any parts at it. Like the MGF, I'd continue running this until terminal. Oil is a cheap consumable to keep feeding it. Those compression numbers, are they when the engine is hot? 500tops and Nyphur 2 Link to post Share on other sites
Shirley Knott 2076 Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 23 hours ago, Niffleman said: These seem good but I think I remember reading something about the gearboxes of the petrol engined models. I thought that the oil seals leaked, emptying the lubricant and leading to problems. Maybe check it? It's the selector seal that goes on the gearbox, it effects all models including the derv 1.7, they all use the 085 gearbox... The only exception to the rule is the 1.4TDi. It's a bit of a tricky job to get right as the seal is sunken into the box and difficult to get at, it's often bonded to the metal through heat, also, if you scratch the selector or damage the casing trying to lever the seal out to replace it you're fucked. I changed the one on my old SDI and after about 4 hours trying to unpick the old seal and having punctured it making the leak worse, I ended up at the VW dealership as at the time I was fairly friendly with the parts/tech guys who cheerfully told me BITD they wound NEVER try to replace them for fear of scratching said selector or damaging the box casing, instead just advising owners to keep them topped up. I was nearly in tears, in the end I did it after a full day of gently prying and the box remained dry/drip free until I sold the car (And hopefully it still is). The Polos had the same box and the same problem. Link to post Share on other sites
doug 2894 Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 Booked daughter no.2s Lupo into a garage next Friday for a new clutch. Spotted a Fantasia Green Lupo on ebay. Miles away from me, and looks like its been lowered/stickered up. So its a no from me. Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Hunt 1384 Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 On 10/16/2020 at 2:30 PM, SiC said: Uh-oh! Hopefully just a coil or slipped timing. Got a compression tester? I also"drew air sharply though clenched teeth" and thought"Is that one of those 3 potlumps" @kiltox burned valv......just for some positive thininking it might only be a spark plug 😀 Link to post Share on other sites
chompy_snake 833 Posted October 17, 2020 Author Share Posted October 17, 2020 2 hours ago, SiC said: Because it's bought broken! I'm not sure why you keep buying cars with known engine faults @chompy_snake?! Faults like this is going to be a high probability that someone has changed a coil before, given up at that point and sell it on cheap. Hence my comment about compression testing it before going to far and start throwing any parts at it. Like the MGF, I'd continue running this until terminal. Oil is a cheap consumable to keep feeding it. Those compression numbers, are they when the engine is hot? Engine was up warm to operating temp yes. Doesn't burn oil, purchased with the intention of putting right as at scrap money and in really good nick tbh. This is literally just a car to get me by initially but it's a nice enough thing to want to fix and an engine is like £150 so no big deal really 🤷 How quite you would expect to buy a car without faults for £280 is beyond me. I know it will run happily for the 9 months until MOT which was its primary purpose. However, I have decided that I would like to fix it but in a logical manner. Not just spamming parts at it left right and centre hoping that it will repair something. Nyphur, doug, Vince70 and 1 other 4 Link to post Share on other sites
Nyphur 11793 Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 16 minutes ago, Isaac Hunt said: and thought"Is that one of those 3 potlumps" It is now Isaac Hunt, Vince70, Rusty_Rocket and 1 other 4 Link to post Share on other sites
chompy_snake 833 Posted October 17, 2020 Author Share Posted October 17, 2020 1 minute ago, Nyphur said: It is now Only at idle 😆 MJK 24 and Nyphur 2 Link to post Share on other sites
HMC 17533 Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 7 hours ago, chompy_snake said: We have compression test results .... Not good, but not the end of the world. Dry test Cylinder 1, 124psi. Cylinder 2, 175 psi. Cylinder 3, 176psi. Cylinder 4, 176psi chompy_snake and horriblemercedes 2 Link to post Share on other sites
chompy_snake 833 Posted October 18, 2020 Author Share Posted October 18, 2020 Smoll update regarding Winston the smoll car. Just had it on the code reader and the obligatory fault code of P0301 was present. I fully expected that tbh. However, upon arriving at my dad's the engine wasn't misfiring. So we cleared the code and he is running sweet as a nut 👍🏻 Now when we ran the compression test we used diesel oil on the wet test (high in detergents I am told). If it was a sticking top ring that may* have cleared it?? Also we have a decent coil pack and leads on the way because we know that the current leads arc out and have 0 surpresion. I would say that this is not a serious engine drama as a low compression doesn't tend to just come and go as it pleases. My theory is (even though new), crap ignition components effectively causing misfire on cylinder 1 and making it bore wash and drop 50psi off the compression on that cylinder. Vince70 and 124Cab 2 Link to post Share on other sites
bunglebus 14041 Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 7 minutes ago, chompy_snake said: Now when we ran the compression test we used diesel oil on the wet test (high in detergents I am told). If it was a sticking top ring that may* have cleared it?? Italian tune up required chompy_snake and sporty-shite 2 Link to post Share on other sites
chompy_snake 833 Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 Suppose that settles the crap ignition parts theory 👍🏻 We already know cylinder 4 has good compression Nyphur 1 Link to post Share on other sites
chompy_snake 833 Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 Well, Winston seems to still be working ..... What kind of witchcraft is this 🤔🤔 doug 1 Link to post Share on other sites
chompy_snake 833 Posted October 29, 2020 Author Share Posted October 29, 2020 Yet another progress/diagnosis report on the Lupo. I took the car to Chesterfield VW North for a full leakdown test to go through further diagnosis and try to pin this issue down a little closer. I was a total spaz donkey with the compression test and forgot the pressure doesn't drop on the gauge as it has a pressure release on it 😆 The results are as follows .... Cylinder 1, 78% loss Cylinder 2, 15% loss Cylinder 3, 10% loss Cylinder 4, 15% loss Of note was that cylinder 1 is dropping pressure into cylinder 2 and that was confirmed by dropping the plug back in and observing the air flow through the plug port and associated whistle that went away with plug refitted in cylinder 2. Now the opinion is that there is a possible burnt valve on cylinder 1 exhaust. I have a quote for repairs but there isn't the valve included. Is it possible that it's blown the head gasket compression to compression cylinders 1 to 2 or would that also give a dodgy reading on cylinder 2 (silly question to ask but I want to get a clearer understanding of the results). Link to post Share on other sites
Jikovron 806 Posted October 29, 2020 Share Posted October 29, 2020 unless the gasket is behaving like a none return flap then 2 would leak into 1 in the same manner Otherwise on the firing stroke of 1 air leaking out of the the exhaust valve would flow out by path of least resistance via the exhaust and the slightly open valve on 2 with next to no pressure behind it where on firing number 2 exhaust valve 4 is ajar All that is assuming TDC and ATDC but not compression BTDC chompy_snake 1 Link to post Share on other sites
chompy_snake 833 Posted October 29, 2020 Author Share Posted October 29, 2020 Ok, so, my understanding is (hopefully correct). The valve seat or the head of the exhaust valve on cylinder 1 would have to be burned or otherwise damaged. This is allowing the gas through the exhaust valve on cylinder 2 as slightly open when cylinder 1 exhaust valve is fully closed. We have pretty much ruled out valve guide or piston ring wear because of the results. This coupled with the handy explanation you just gave me, points rather strongly towards valve replacement on cylinder 1 being required. The reason I am being so methodical about this fault finding is that a repair is due to commence shortly. I have now 2 quotes. First quote is £637.69 but there is no mention of valve replacements and I'm told that will be extra. Quote number two is approximately £160 labour, me supplying parts at £155 to do the head gasket, timing belt and water pump. Then unknown machine shop costs until head off. Would imagine total to be around the £450 area. I have the option of doing the work myself, however I don't think I want to be bent over the engine for 3-4 hours taking the head off followed by any repairs from bolts snapping (and the exhaust studs probably will) . Link to post Share on other sites
chompy_snake 833 Posted November 8, 2020 Author Share Posted November 8, 2020 Parts car collected today for £200. It has an AUC 1.0mpi in it that wants the lifters out of my knackered engine. Clutch and timing belt doing as a case of insurance, then the engine and all good parts can go onto mine to make 1 good car...... Will shortly have lots of Lupo spares for sale 👍🏻 Coprolalia, Agila, Vince70 and 2 others 5 Link to post Share on other sites
bunglebus 14041 Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 Still just need to find a good cheap Lupo for the mrs, if she ever gets to take a driving test. Covid has seen it cancelled three times so far this year Link to post Share on other sites
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