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Winston the Lupo arrives!


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3 hours ago, cobblers said:

Get your head up under the dash and check the pedal box isn't cracked where the clutch pedal mounts - If it hasn't been replaced, it will crack and your clutch will fall off! You can apparently bodge weld them in situ. 

Noticed clutch pedal is a little creaky will have a proper inspection soon. Have already done brake light switch because EPC light .... Funnily enough I got it from ECP for less than a tenner 👍🏻

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We have compression test results .... Not good, but not the end of the world.

Dry test 

Cylinder 1, 124psi. Cylinder 2, 175 psi. Cylinder 3, 176psi. Cylinder 4, 176psi.

Wet test on cylinder 1 brings the compression in line with the other 3 cylinders.

Now the other thing of note is that it holds pressure well so I would suspect rings or bore on cylinder 1.

Best way forward is what's really at question here.... New engine or repair what's in there as otherwise good bar cylinder 1 🤷

No intention of binning it so that's a good start point.

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Fucking hell man, you don't have a lot of luck do you!

If it's any consolation, the front end of these comes to pieces quickly and it's a pretty straightforward engine change.

Fair play to you for sticking with it, by now a lot of people would have sacked it off and been down to Stoneacre to PCP a nice troublefree Corsa or something 

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5 minutes ago, cobblers said:

Fucking hell man, you don't have a lot of luck do you!

Fair play to you for sticking with it, by now a lot of people would have sacked it off and been down to Stoneacre to PCP a nice troublefree Corsa or something 

Been there and done that, not happening again 😆

For the payments I was making I reckon it should be about 8 weeks to fully repair 👍🏻 then should* be trouble free 

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My aunty has had one of these little German hot rods from new.  It too started to misfire at idle and never ran on ‘4’.

At the time it had only done 33,000 miles.  Every one of them going to either church or Tesco’s.  Anyway, I got the compression tester out and cylinder 2 was around 115psi and the others were around 180.

They are known for burning valves out so I got an inlet and exhaust from Volkswagen TPS plus the necessary gasket kit, bolts, belts etc.  Did the job in my igloo like garage one weekend between Christmas and New Year.  I nearly succumbed to the elements but hope kept me going.

Anyway, you can imagine I was borderline euphoric when I started it up and it was still running on 3 after a day and a half and £150!

The coil was fucked....

 

 

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50 minutes ago, bunglebus said:

I just want to know how you found one at that price. I've been looking and tatty sheds are twice as much.

The hunt continues...

Because it's bought broken!

I'm not sure why you keep buying cars with known engine faults @chompy_snake?!

Faults like this is going to be a high probability that someone has changed a coil before, given up at that point and sell it on cheap. Hence my comment about compression testing it before going to far and start throwing any parts at it. 

Like the MGF, I'd continue running this until terminal. Oil is a cheap consumable to keep feeding it. 

Those compression numbers, are they when the engine is hot?

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23 hours ago, Niffleman said:

These seem good but I think I remember reading something about the gearboxes of the petrol engined models. I thought that the oil seals leaked, emptying the lubricant and leading to problems.  Maybe check it?

It's the selector seal that goes on the gearbox, it effects all models including the derv 1.7, they all use the 085 gearbox... The only exception to the rule is the 1.4TDi.

It's a bit of a tricky job to get right as the seal is sunken into the box and difficult to get at, it's often bonded to the metal through heat, also, if you scratch the selector or damage the casing trying to lever the seal out to replace it you're fucked.  I changed the one on my old SDI and after about 4 hours trying to unpick the old seal and having punctured it making the leak worse, I ended up at the VW dealership as at the time I was fairly friendly with the parts/tech guys who cheerfully told me BITD they wound NEVER try to replace them for fear of scratching said selector or damaging the box casing, instead just advising owners to keep them topped up. I was nearly in tears, in the end I did it after a full day of gently prying and the box remained dry/drip free until I sold the car (And hopefully it still is). The Polos had the same box and the same problem.

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Booked daughter no.2s Lupo into a garage next Friday for a new clutch. 

Spotted a Fantasia Green Lupo on ebay. Miles away from me, and looks like its been lowered/stickered up. So its a no from me.

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On 10/16/2020 at 2:30 PM, SiC said:

Uh-oh! Hopefully just a coil or slipped timing. Got a compression tester?

I also"drew air sharply though clenched teeth" and thought"Is that one of those 3 potlumps" @kiltox burned valv......just for some positive thininking it might only be a spark plug 😀

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2 hours ago, SiC said:

Because it's bought broken!

I'm not sure why you keep buying cars with known engine faults @chompy_snake?!

Faults like this is going to be a high probability that someone has changed a coil before, given up at that point and sell it on cheap. Hence my comment about compression testing it before going to far and start throwing any parts at it. 

Like the MGF, I'd continue running this until terminal. Oil is a cheap consumable to keep feeding it. 

Those compression numbers, are they when the engine is hot?

Engine was up warm to operating temp yes.

Doesn't burn oil, purchased with the intention of putting right as at scrap money and in really good nick tbh. 

This is literally just a car to get me by initially but it's a nice enough thing to want to fix and an engine is like £150 so no big deal really 🤷

How quite you would expect to buy a car without faults for £280 is beyond me. I know it will run happily for the 9 months until MOT which was its primary purpose. However, I have decided that I would like to fix it but in a logical manner. Not just spamming parts at it left right and centre hoping that it will repair something.

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Smoll update regarding Winston the smoll car. 

Just had it on the code reader and the obligatory fault code of P0301 was present. I fully expected that tbh. 

However, upon arriving at my dad's the engine wasn't misfiring. So we cleared the code and he is running sweet as a nut 👍🏻

Now when we ran the compression test we used diesel oil on the wet test (high in detergents I am told). If it was a sticking top ring that may* have cleared it?? 

Also we have a decent coil pack and leads on the way because we know that the current leads arc out and have 0 surpresion. 

I would say that this is not a serious engine drama as a low compression doesn't tend to just come and go as it pleases. 

My theory is (even though new), crap ignition components effectively causing misfire on cylinder 1 and making it bore wash and drop 50psi off the compression on that cylinder. 

 

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