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The oldest Land-Rover Series 3 around?


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  • 2 weeks later...

The plating process was a nightmare - I think the chemicals have deteriorated in storage! So I just gave the tow hitch a coat of paint for now.


I've also fitted my reversing lights but not wired them up yet as I'm waiting for the gearbox switch to arrive. The 12N socket hadn't been fitted when I bought it, so I installed one that I'd previously removed from another vehicle. I mounted it to a neat little plate which fits in the PTO recess, which I'm hardly likely to use!


The socket is appropriately marked, which pleases me :-)

In doing this I've noticed that the drop plate is only mounted with M10 bolts. Google image searches show similar bolts for the top row, but the lower ones look like M16. Also the plate is not folded on the edges, so  seems like a home made affair. If I do end up towing anything I want it to be sturdy, so will replace at some point.

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7 hours ago, PhilA said:

I have a pair of what look like standard 21W bulbs, but are 35W (standard reversing light fitment on mine). Can you get those there?

I've got these in the Stellar:


Which sound similar although halogen versions. I'm a little worried about heat build up, so will stick to the standard 21w bulbs I think. 

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That was my logic too, and at the price they are it's not the end of the world if I have to replace every so often. I've now removed the floorpans to gain access to the gearbox - surprisingly easy bit I guess seized fixings aren't unheard of.


The hole at the lower right of the gear lever support I will fit the switch to, and then I can fix a tab to the reverse gate which will move the switch plunger.


I temporarily connected up the lights to check all was working, and they look like they'll do the job. No sign of burning with 21w anyway!


I've also fitted a rear fog light - mainly to cover an existing hole so only temporarily bolted in place! I thought it would look too new, but I reckon it doesn't look too out of place. Unless someone has a better idea?

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54 minutes ago, N Dentressangle said:

Tow hitch should have M16 bolts for the ball, + M16 for the lower of the two chassis fixings and M10 for the upper, as well as appropriate spreader plates on the back of the rear x member.

That's what I thought, based on Google images, but this uses M10 for all four, albeit with a hefty spreader plate at the rear. I'll have to make up an M16 plate I think, or probably just take a slice of the current drop plate.

45 minutes ago, warch said:

Reversing lights would be quite handy, and a lot safer

This time of year, just about every journey I'll have to turn around in the dark so it's a bit of a pain without!

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My new drop plate has arrived, but as I went for a hot dip galvanised one, I wanted to tone it down a bit. First I bead blasted it to key the surface, then gave it to my mate who does powder coating as a sideline.



After baking it looked like this :-)


I then wished I had a plasma cutter, after spending ages cutting out a spreader plate from the old drop plate.


Bolted it all up and job done!


I've also splashed out on something else for it - more than I wanted to pay but cheaper than I've seen them go for. It will finish it off a treat...

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6 minutes ago, mat_the_cat said:

My new drop plate has arrived, but as I went for a hot dip galvanised one, I wanted to tone it down a bit. First I bead blasted it to key the surface, then gave it to my mate who does powder coating as a sideline.


I've also splashed out on something else for it - more than I wanted to pay but cheaper than I've seen them go for. It will finish it off a treat...

Is it a Brockhouse Trailer?

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I've now finished off the reverse light install using a brake light switch mounted on the shifter mount. I fixed a tab onto the reverse gear gate, which flips up out of the way to allow the lever to move into the reverse position.



Then just a case of running wiring to it (sleeved for protection) and tapping into the existing fuse box. 


The floor is back down, and this morning I thought I'd try something I'd been thinking about for a while. Unfortunately filming missed the first two attempts, but just caught the successful one!


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We went for a mountain walk on Sunday, and to my surprise (and pleasure) it was suggested we go in the Land-Rover. A frosty start, but no problems, and relatively warm by the end of the journey.


My earliest LR memory is a holiday trip down a rocky track to a beach on the Isle of Wight, in a 109 Station Wagon. My second memory, and the one from which I remember more details, is again on holiday but this time in Cornwall. A Rover 800 was stuck towing their caravan up a sloping grassy field, and the site Land-Rover was called upon to pull them out. When I later saw it manouvering a static caravan, I was amazed.

Anyway, this was (from the wing-mounted headlights and central speedo) what I now know to be a late Series 2A, and this has always been what I've regarded as a 'proper' Land-Rover. I always thought the Series 3 grille at odds with the rest of the styling, and it especially grates on this one with the pre '63 reg and black and white number plate. So...

On 12/3/2020 at 12:48 PM, mat_the_cat said:

All will be revealed, if I like it.

This is more like it!


Not yet mounted (need to make some fittings), but much more suited IMO.

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longest trip in my SWB 2 1/4 diesel was from Dudley west midlands, to Egremont in Cumbria 196 miles one way, me-wife and 3 kids all under 8 and a tool box..55 on the motorway as I fitted the 3:54 diffs....I went to collect a J reg LR90 on a dolly...that was fun coming back down the Motorway 45flat out and Police looking, then laughing and pulling away.....took 18 hours in total, 3 tanks of diesel..and Deaf didn't even begin to describe it LOL..

also went green laning in wales with it strata florida...great fun..

Shouldn't your airfilter be an Oil bath one?? not paper??

and Re reversing lights amazon do LED bulbs that fit and are stupidly bright, I also fitted them to side lights better than DRL's...

She looks a cracking landy....but I'd ask him for list of parts, just in case its like triggers broom, brakes especially as they made quite a few different ones..


Edited by bezzabsa
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4 hours ago, sutty2006 said:

I hope you didn’t buy that starting handle. I’ve got one of those in my workshop you could of had for free! 

Thanks, but it came with it! Only thing I'm really after is a rear door I think, and maybe some decent rear bench seats.

Oh, and some more security - I get worried parking it anywhere!

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7 minutes ago, mat_the_cat said:

Thanks, but it came with it! Only thing I'm really after is a rear door I think, and maybe some decent rear bench seats.

Oh, and some more security - I get worried parking it anywhere!


The Series 3 I drove back in 2005 had a lock on the driver's door but not the passenger door. My dad bought a passenger door lock from one of those numerous Land Rover magazines. It was operated from inside the cab only, you just twisted it and pushed it. It locked the handle solid so you couldn't open it though!

Then we added little locks to the sliding window runners. They were just little plastic things that slid upwards from inside the bottom runner to stop the window being slid open. However, the most 'urban' place that Land Rover ever saw was the centre of Turriff, so security wasn't of real concern.

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20 minutes ago, Supernaut said:


The Series 3 I drove back in 2005 had a lock on the driver's door but not the passenger door. My dad bought a passenger door lock from one of those numerous Land Rover magazines. It was operated from inside the cab only, you just twisted it and pushed it. It locked the handle solid so you couldn't open it though!

Then we added little locks to the sliding window runners. They were just little plastic things that slid upwards from inside the bottom runner to stop the window being slid open. However, the most 'urban' place that Land Rover ever saw was the centre of Turriff, so security wasn't of real concern.

I think my series 3 ambulance was the same. No lock on door but had a shoot lock inside the cab. You locked it before you got out then locked drivers door. Ahhh back in the days before things got complicated 🤣

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pedal box lock is the way to go...its a plate that folds down and covers ALL the pedals and is locked into place....also leave in in 1st gear, but put the 4x4 into neutral position..confuse em for a bit..

do recall seeing some one who fitted some kind of lock to the rear prop UJ..

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I usually pull a wire off if I'm leaving my Landy somewhere unattended (the rotor arm is a good bet). The battery issue on mine does make it quite hard to start, anyone who isn't me* would probably struggle to get the right combination of choke and throttle when its cold. 

* I have spent ages trying to start the thing with the handle before, trying every combination of choke and propping the throttle open, before realising I've got the rotor arm in my pocket.

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3 hours ago, bezzabsa said:

pedal box lock is the way to go...its a plate that folds down and covers ALL the pedals and is locked into place....also leave in in 1st gear, but put the 4x4 into neutral position..confuse em for a bit..

do recall seeing some one who fitted some kind of lock to the rear prop UJ..

This worked for my friend when the thieves couldn’t get it off his drive. Unfortunately they then decided to take all the doors, lights and bonnet instead. So they were quite determined but the box was too much for them. I bought one for my van.

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Ok, so the water level (even under cover!) has receded far enough for me to want to get underneath it, so I've eventually wired up the trailer socket. Success!


I may have to do something about the trailer indicator warning light though, as it's LED and rather too bright!


I may relocate this elsewhere anyway, as I want to fit a rear fog light switch, and here seems as good a place as any.

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Tonight's task was to fit my 'new' old grille. The original way of supporting it was a pair of bent metal clips at the bottom, but when I looked at the price that second-hand ones went for, I decided to make my own! 


Until I discovered someone on Facebook making them from stainless, for £5 a pair - not worth my time to try and knock them up at that price :-)

Helpfully, Land Rover had not changed the front panel pressing since the series 2A days, and the mounting tabs were still present.


To my surprise, the clips came with stainless rivets too, which were on the limit of what my cheap rivet gun (and hands!) could cope with. I guess owning both an Airstream and Land-Rover, I may need to invest in a better rivet gun...


 I cut some silicone tube to slip over the grille, to prevent it from rattling around - surely one less rattle is a good thing? Then drilled where the badge sits for the top fixings. I used rivnuts rather than plastic inserts for a more secure fastening, and will replace with security screws given what these grilles can fetch on eBay! 

This is the finished job, and I really think it looks the part 😎20201214_222836.thumb.jpg.326c059025919cd4d8d1ddaf533ab0d4.jpg

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A friend of my boss had a Series about 20 years ago, and the boss tells a great story. 

There were a few blokes, all bikers, and they found a disused pub for sale for £15k, and all pitched in and bought it as a mutual spannering place/hangout. Beer garden/car park as secure storage, and the locals were happy as the look of these folk kept trouble away even though they were harmless. 

One of them was offered a Perkins powered Series for peanuts, that's great he thinks, he had some land up in Cumbria and was going to use it as a field car. 

However it's far too solid, so he knocks about in it for a bit - the pub has a gas tank out back, and the Perkins will run on kerosene. He has the gas tank filled and runs the Landy off it. 
It's the height of the 2000ish fuel crisis, and this chap's bombing around in a jet fuel Landy, 55p/litre, tax paid and above board. No shortage. 

Fucking winner.

After a while it drops a liner or a piston ring or something cylinder related (I don't remember exactly) and starts smoking to fuck, so he calls up Perkins, I need some parts for this old engine, do you do them, gives them the serial etc, yep we support those, what do you want? 
Oh no we don't stock those. 
Chap's a bit confused. 
Bloke on the phone says what do you want [part] for anyway? we do the whole piston/ring/liner as one thing, just drops in, something like £20 a unit, this is how blah blah.. 
fuck me thinks our landy lad and takes four, sure enough the pistons drop in in their liners, rebuilds the engine for £80, and it's fucking class. 

Runs it for a while and sells for £profit. 

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