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Juular's ovlov rescue centre - poking holes in a 240 (now fixing some)


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Appreciating the encouragement 👍

Not great weather this weekend. I'm looking into building a shonky garage or carport of some kind. Nothing permanent but just enough to make life easier.

The C70 hadn't turned a wheel in a couple of weeks because it started giving some rough shifts and I wanted to avoid breaking the magic gearbox. Then it started flaring into 2nd and I knew I had to get the fluid out.

Yum.

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No doubt that isn't helping!

This car has the 4 speed Aisin Warner box but I wasn't sure whether to refill with Dexron 3 or 3309 fluid. The 3309 is higher grade stuff and apparently backwards compatible so when I found it online much cheaper than I can get the Dexron locally I just went with that.

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This was just a simple drain and fill using the dipstick tube for minimum faff. Then run the engine and cycle P,D,R a few times, topping up the fluid until it reached the dipstick mark. It drained 4.2 litres and took exactly the same. 

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This leaves a fair bit of fluid sitting in the torque converter but a couple of dump and fills should see the fluid significantly improved. Total cost around £26 so viable to do along with every engine oil change.

First impressions, after a couple of gnarly bumpy shifts it seems a lot smoother. The 1st-2nd-3rd upshift was feather light, almost not noticeable. I'm going to call that a huge win and I can go back to enjoying throwing all my money into the wind in the form of petrol fumes.

Back to the 240, @Lacquer Peel once again helped out and we got cracking on dismantling yet more panels and got the seats and stinky carpet out. I kind of like the mad Max look and would happily roll in this.

 

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The soundproof mats under the carpets weighed a ton, mostly thanks to water!

Amazingly the floor is not bad at all and will only need a mild tickle around the drain plugs.

This is by far the worst bit. I'm not sure whether this edge needs replaced. I will attack it with a wire wheel and see how far the rot goes. The floor is fairly thick and passes the screwdriver test, it may just need cleaned and treated. 

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Given how bad the nearside A-pillar is I was dreading getting here but someone has been here already, and things are good.

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Might need a panel at the bottom but otherwise happy with that.

Inside looks good also, maybe a bit of tidying up but no major surgery needed here. I note the footwell vent has been removed and it's letting in water from the scuttle.

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Back to making bits, I welded and smoothed out the replacement passenger side pillar bottom. Not perfect but it'll do, pig. 

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It doesn't lay flush as there's weld beads on the back, but I think it'll fit well enough once the rotten bit is gone.

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Duct tape template for the adjoining section. This is a fairly mild curve so I'm going to attempt bending a single piece here.

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As for the sills, I'm weighing up buying a single full replacement side and chopping out the bits I need, versus making a potentially shonky homemade part.

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The doors of the 240 are really impressive, I'm sure there are lighter doors for nuclear bunkers. 

Again it was good to get stuck into the 240. We were lucky in that the OSF wing had been removed before so it was easy to take off. 

I don't know much about welding but @juular kindly let me have a shot on some scrap steel. 

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On 11/15/2020 at 6:38 PM, juular said:

Appreciating the encouragement 👍

Not great weather this weekend. I'm looking into building a shonky garage or carport of some kind. Nothing permanent but just enough to make life easier.

The C70 hadn't turned a wheel in a couple of weeks because it started giving some rough shifts and I wanted to avoid breaking the magic gearbox. Then it started flaring into 2nd and I knew I had to get the fluid out.

Yum.

spacer.png

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No doubt that isn't helping!

This car has the 4 speed Aisin Warner box but I wasn't sure whether to refill with Dexron 3 or 3309 fluid. The 3309 is higher grade stuff and apparently backwards compatible so when I found it online much cheaper than I can get the Dexron locally I just went with that.

spacer.png

This was just a simple drain and fill using the dipstick tube for minimum faff. Then run the engine and cycle P,D,R a few times, topping up the fluid until it reached the dipstick mark. It drained 4.2 litres and took exactly the same. 

spacer.png

This leaves a fair bit of fluid sitting in the torque converter but a couple of dump and fills should see the fluid significantly improved. Total cost around £26 so viable to do along with every engine oil change.

First impressions, after a couple of gnarly bumpy shifts it seems a lot smoother. The 1st-2nd-3rd upshift was feather light, almost not noticeable. I'm going to call that a huge win and I can go back to enjoying throwing all my money into the wind in the form of petrol fumes.

Have you got a link to the gear box fluid please? We've got the same box in the V70 and it's flaring as well.

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1 hour ago, Flat4 said:

Have you got a link to the gear box fluid please? We've got the same box in the V70 and it's flaring as well.

 

https://www.smithandallan.com/products/transport-gear-and-transmission/4476-smith-and-allan-atf-3309-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid--jws-3309-toyota-atf-t-iv-t1v-aisin-warner/

That, a 24mm spanner, drain pan and a funnel is all you need.

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Awful weekend, doing my best in between the squalls. Started rebuilding the inside of the A-pillar.

I can haz garridge? 

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Chop

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Sill fruit machine jackpot, payout in iron 

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Started making new parts based on rusty offcuts.

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Metal bender got some use.

 

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Test fitting

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On to the part above that. I have to do a bit of extrapolation from a small rusted fragment here.

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Pretty damn close!

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A little touch up and holes for the plug welds.

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Tacked in.

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Earlier lower bit added in

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Pillar starting to look right again. Next big job is to replicate that rusty hinge reinforcement bracket above the new bit.

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Wee chunk of inner sill replaced as a spot weld had rusted here and eaten right through.

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There was a funny little bracket /plate layered in here that had rotted away entirely. I had to guess what shape it was as there's literally nothing left but the flanges.. I guess as long as it performs the same function then it will be fine.

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That's all for now. I have a question though.. 

Does anyone know if BOR-8 is any good to stop flash rusting? I'm always going to have this problem as I don't want to paint anything until I'm closer to completion of a section.

https://www.rust.co.uk/product/bor-8-rust-inhibitor-29

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  • juular changed the title to Juular's ovlov rescue centre - poking holes in a 240 (now fixing some)

This is progressing at a rate of knots and looking fab!! Big respect for doing this outside in November in East Scotland too 

I’d suggest weld-through primer on any of those overlapping seams where you’re plug welding. It’s also good in the short term to stop  flash rusting too, with the advantage that you won’t have to grind it off later on before welding a bit more 🙂

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11 minutes ago, Tamworthbay said:

It’s looking good! For the rust prevention I used Bilthamber weld through primer extensively on the Capri. Some sections were left for several months in just primer and were perfect underneath when I cleaned it back.

I have some weld through zinc primer but I'm concerned about getting the shakes as I don't have a respirator. The etchweld doesn't mention having zinc, I might drop them a line as the BH stuff I've used before has been very good.

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38 minutes ago, juular said:

I have some weld through zinc primer but I'm concerned about getting the shakes as I don't have a respirator. The etchweld doesn't mention having zinc, I might drop them a line as the BH stuff I've used before has been very good.

I used it outside without a mask with no issues. The guy who runs it, Peter Hamber, is an incredibly helpful bloke so I am sure he will able to advise.

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under that black metal panel in the pass footwell is a relay. they fit them upside down so they fill with water. pop it out, pop the cover off and check for water ingress. then seal it and fit the right way up . caused shit loads of dramas on mine

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6 hours ago, sloth said:

under that black metal panel in the pass footwell is a relay. they fit them upside down so they fill with water. pop it out, pop the cover off and check for water ingress. then seal it and fit the right way up . caused shit loads of dramas on mine

Good tip thank you. This one?

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Seemed ok thankfully.

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New hinge reinforcing bracket.

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In situ. Old one above, new one below.

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Chopped out. Not too bad a match.

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Last bit of new inner pillar.

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Took ages to get a tight fit but got there in the end. I'd be stuck without the power file. Also, neodymium magnets out of old hard drives are brilliant.

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Cleaned a little bit of surface ginge off a bit of pillar I really didn't want to get stuck into. The metal is sound but pitted. Treated with hydrate 80 just to be sure. Goes nice and blue.

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Another bit made from a rusty cutout.

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In situ.

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Managed to pigeon shit it all together before the darkness and wind killed progress. Thankfully done in time for a quick bit of primer as well. So that's the inner pillar done.

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Didn't have time to finish this. But it's starting to take shape.

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Next job.. If all goes to plan I'll be able to start gluing on the outer panels I made earlier and if really lucky I might be able to test fit the door.

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A wee bit fresh this morning.

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Finished last week's welding off and started on the hinge panel.

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Missed a bit of grot and had to make an extra bit.

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Tidied up a couple of bad welds on the inner pillar.

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Strengthening bracket in place so I could drill bolt holes in it.

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Had to get a more manly drill to open those up.

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Couple of strengthening plates too.

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Bit of bird shit.

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Making sure this bit still fits.

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It's slow going. I don't mind the cold at all but the darkness at 3pm can FRO.

Need a unit.

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Lovely work going on here, looks spot on!👍

Whats yours like around the arse end? My old saloon rotted on the panel below the rear number plate/behind rear bumper/boot floor area and the two boot wells at each side. They can rot badly under the rear seat base area too. Plaster it in wax or something similar if it’s still good!

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2 hours ago, danthecapriman said:

Lovely work going on here, looks spot on!👍

Whats yours like around the arse end? My old saloon rotted on the panel below the rear number plate/behind rear bumper/boot floor area and the two boot wells at each side. They can rot badly under the rear seat base area too. Plaster it in wax or something similar if it’s still good!

Thanks. There's a bit of rot on the end of the chassis rails at the fuel tank but I'm hoping it doesn't go too much beyond that. I hear they can rot badly through the chassis rail where the shocks go in under the rear seats.

The bits I've found so far seem quite localised, it seems to be on the lowest points where water has drained / dripped for some time. This is consistent with storage rot rather than road salt. Fingers crossed!

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