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Rusty *VOLVO* In Scotland - Collection complete!


captain_70s

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7 hours ago, Talbot said:

You are joking I hope?  A car heater can put out 5kW if needed, and I suspect to defrost a car of that size and keep it above hypothermia temperatures in winter, most of those 5kW will be needed.  Being a car designed for cold weather climate and being the size it is, it might even be closer to 10kW than 5kW.

300W will do absolutely fuck-all for heating a car interior.  It also puts 25A of load on the alternator at a time when you don't really want to be putting any additional load on the electrical system if you can avoid it, especially not on 30+ year old wiring. 

If it is a failed/failing heater valve there must be some modification that can be done to either repair it, or delete it and locate it elsewhere.  Plumbing isn't rocket science.

A mate had a peugeot expert van where the heater matrix had failed so he bypassed it. The solution in winter was to fill two 2l pop bottles with hot water and place them on the dashboard. 

This was also the van where the glow plugs were activated by holding the high beam on. The neighbours used to think he was nuts.

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2 minutes ago, outlaw118 said:

Can only echo everyone else's thoughts here, that is

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**EDITED TO ADD** Are there any SVM Approved stickers floating about? This needs one OBVS but so does Megamoose after it's brief test by @cms206 and @davidfowler2000 in Cannock Auctions car park!

I'll have a look Bob, I might have one or two kicking about!

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Don't think the matrix is fucked, heater works and doesn't piss water everywhere.

The interior showed many signs of having been very wet, possibly what the PO was hunting for, but doesn't seem to fill up like a lake at the moment...

After collecting on Weds I went over to @davehedgehog31's place to reinstall the interior.

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This took 4 hours. Turns out it's not easy to reassemble something you never took apart in the first place....

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All present and correct. Minimal rattles!

It had an issue where, when warm, it'd idle at 1500rpm in P and then idle too low and stall when D was selected. @davidfowler2000 found the idle control microswitch wasn't being activated correctly and a bit of modification saw the car idling correctly.

There is still a slight misfire to correct.

I then gave the car a proper stage one tidy up on Saturday and re-blacked the plastics.

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On Sunday the car decided it didn't like the attention and I arrived home from working on the Dolly to see this as I stepped out the car.

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I looked, thought "nah, can't be me" and went inside. 5mins later it'd played on my mind and I went back out and moved the car around the corner to double check. Oil was pissing out the bottom. Fuck.

I was sure the gearbox had shat itself but scrabbling about underneath found a burst PAS pipe. I pulled the drive belt off and have been living without it.

Other than that issue it'll need some welding to the rear sills and arch tubs, probably some other misc stuff. Seems a good steer so far!

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On 8/24/2020 at 6:09 PM, SiC said:

Is @captain_70s next post shortly going to be on the Single and Sad Thread?! 

On the bright side, the massive biceps he's going to develop from driving this thing to the frozen wastelands and back without PAS will prove exceedingly helpful in attracting a new mate.

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8 hours ago, GeordieInExile said:

On the bright side, the massive biceps he's going to develop from driving this thing to the frozen wastelands and back without PAS will prove exceedingly helpful in attracting a new mate.

You've seen the show thread - now play the game!

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What a bargain, complete with roof bars fit for transporting mahogany wardrobes too. This has got to be a contender for autoshite bargain of the year. A real Volvo running with some ticket for one and a half trips to the cash machine. You sir are truly winning at life ?

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On 8/25/2020 at 11:19 PM, captain_70s said:

First mpg reading now in, estimated due to lack of functional fuel gauge or odometer...  20mpg.   Ooft.

Given that it's a 2.0 engine that likely hasn't seen a decent service in a fair while (unless you've already done it?) driving through an un-lockable torque converter, dragging around 35 tonnes of car with the aerodynamics of a medium-sized block of flats, that doesn't sound as awful as it first appears.

If you're not using them, I'd remove the roof-rails.  They could make 1-2mpg difference on faster driving, which at 20mpg could be 5-10% difference.

Also, is this carb or fuel injection?  If carburettor, I'll bet it's a mile out of tune, possibly running horribly rich at higher speed/load.  That and an ignition system freshen-up might improve that to mid-high 20's. 

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