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Further adventures of the Renault 6 - update p7 - Honin' In The Honeyard


djoptix

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3 minutes ago, Mally said:

1/4 drive ratchet on a head stud!

Braver than me.

 

To be honest, if it weren't Halfords Advanced I would definitely have been thinking twice.

If I break it I can take it back and get it replaced for free.

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If you read my post on page 10 of the original thread from 03/09/2018 you will have seen my solution:

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This time: 1/4" drive waisted socket into 1/4" to 3/8" adaptor into 3/8" to 1/2" adaptor into 1/2" drive resistance-is-useless breaker bar.

Success!

Thought something was going to break but eventually, with a very loud crack, the bolt came undone.

On to the next one. This time the socket would not fit in under the rocker arms. I think this was because of their position. Over the first bolt one valve was open and one closed, hence the rocker arms were at different heights, but over the second bolt both valves were closed, hence the rocker arms were both at the same height.

Judicious use of a grinding stone in a Dremel soon saw a couple of millimetres ground off the inside of the head casting in the appropriate place (visible top right of photo below) and CRACK! the second bolt was also undone.

Job done, you would think, but not entirely.

The bolts could now only be undone a couple of turns with the socket before it jammed on the underside of the rocker arms and could not be removed. So more fiddling required with long-nosed pliers and fingers on the (now loose) bolts. But eventually all the head bolts are out. YAY!

You might have also succeeded this way, but good to know that you found another successful solution. The "proper" Renault way to do this is to remove the clips from the rocker shafts and pull them out. There are two separate half-length shafts, one pulls out from the front of the head and one from the back. But the ones in the original head refused to budge so desperate measures were required..
 

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10 minutes ago, mk2_craig said:

Ace!! I'll be interested to see what you rig up as a means of clamping those liners in.

One solution already posted:

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To be sure of what is happening I would be tempted to remove the cylinder head, as the valves will probably need checking / grinding in anyway. This will also allow to you to lubricate the tops of the pistons and bash them in both directions. There are new gaskets in the spares stash that I sent with the car. You will need to clamp the liners down and are supposed to use the special Renault tool, which of course is unobtainium, but I have seen large washers mentioned as an alternative. I used a piece of Dexion angle, suitably adjusted, diagonally across the top of the block, held down by two of the original head bolts spaced with lengths of 15mm copper pipes cut to length, which I think worked OK. See the photo below:

IMG_20191027_143815900.thumb.jpg.8d36c0207ee6722bc36e086b3f11140f.jpg 

Take your time and don't despair yet. There seems a lot to do but perseverance will get you there in the end.
 

 

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8 minutes ago, somewhatfoolish said:

Remove the liners with the pistons still in and immerse in vinegar or generic effervescent brown soft drink; within a day or two the rust will have miraculously disappeared as fast as your stomach lining.

You would think so but the ones on the original engine were soaked in vinegar for about a month, then cheap cola for about the same time again. During this time they were also heated several times to about 250 degrees C in a domestic oven and allowed to cool. Did they move. No way! Never did get round to trying diesel and/or ATF though.
 

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28 minutes ago, Slowsilver said:

You would think so but the ones on the original engine were soaked in vinegar for about a month, then cheap cola for about the same time again. During this time they were also heated several times to about 250 degrees C in a domestic oven and allowed to cool. Did they move. No way! Never did get round to trying diesel and/or ATF though.
 

To be fair they looked utterly fucked, whereas these are only lightly fucked.

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42 minutes ago, Slowsilver said:

You would think so but the ones on the original engine were soaked in vinegar for about a month, then cheap cola for about the same time again. During this time they were also heated several times to about 250 degrees C in a domestic oven and allowed to cool. Did they move. No way! Never did get round to trying diesel and/or ATF though.
 

I have to back up @Slowsilver here - the originals are very very seized. I can hardly swing the con rod at all (the gudgeon pin is almost solid).

image.thumb.png.f754437f6ee5cb570a5a866c54da4e3c.png

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These were assembled with a remarkably high level of precision to begin with; probably because Renault knew that nothing would ever get maintained, so they will run pretty well with remarkably large amounts of abuse.

That looks just fine*. Scouring pad and some dishwashing soap and she'll be reet.

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6 minutes ago, ETCHY said:

Superb work, i'm enjoying this a lot. It's fighting you all the bloody way but you seem to be winning & great job on making the tool.

If all else fails you could now go on "Dragons Den" & try & market your R6 special stud removal tool !?

Hopefully he can remember which bits go where when he reassembles everything. Start worrying if there are bits left over!!

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2 hours ago, Tadhg Tiogar said:

Hopefully he can remember which bits go where when he reassembles everything. Start worrying if there are bits left over!!

That is exactly the issue ?

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