Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Wiper investigation today.  First item to address was the play in the wiper mechanism which was causing one of the mechanism arms to chafe against the back of the dashboard.  The electric wiper motor has a drive shaft that comes out of the back and connects to a central piece on the dashboard.  This central piece then connects via a shorter arm to the passenger side wiper box, and then by a longer arm to the driver's side wiper box.

202010-21.thumb.jpg.246a7fab3a0268f8298da5e20b37067a.jpg

202010-22.thumb.jpg.aad66d97da9663846d78aaa79aa1032f.jpg

202010-20.thumb.jpg.a47b320ef4520b8f1c0e2981e907a883.jpg

The problem is the longer arm which flops about too much.  By removing the split pin and inserting a very thin washer it removed what play could be removed and still allow the split pin to be installed.  The other issue is that the motor doesn't seem particularly strong and really struggled to move if the wipers were actually against the screen.  Grease in the gearbox of the wiper motor was the main suspicion here and, on opening it up, the grease inside looked and felt for all the world like window putty.

202010-18.thumb.jpg.79038d24f522775341bfb2682c7f45e9.jpg

202010-19.thumb.jpg.ed2ae2f4ac93e6377caaa69ab0a3dfb7.jpg

I don't have any suitable grease at the moment, but when I do this will be cleaned out and regreased accordingly which will hopefully restore proper functionality.  Did a bit more video experimenting too today, and braved putting myself on camera.  Be kind.

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I enjoyed that video, you came across really well.  I did chuckle at the 'wild' neighbour butting in to ask how you are getting on. 

I didn't quite pick up on the screw issue, but you mentioned that they weren't magnetic (perhaps brass?).  If the issue is that the screw won't stay put and it's recessed, you could use a captive screwdriver if the screw heads are slotted.

image.jpeg.8bb507b8d36b71920f766d15987219d1.jpeg

I have one and it sees the light of day occasionally for furniture assembly and work things.  It really helps when you have a screw that needs to be located at somewhere that you can't reach.

Electrical tape around a conventional screwdriver also does the job.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm *just* old enough to remember the old slam door carriages and that scramble for the smokers in the bit between carriages to shove down the sliding window and start fumbling about for the handle. Top tip on the screwdriver, that's exactly the sort of tool that's needed.  The screws are steel, but I suspect the zinc plating is why they're not sticking to my magnetic screwdrivers.

Link to post
Share on other sites

A bit of Blu -Tac can also work to hold screw. 

(The old slam door train doors were lethal in so many ways - particularly commuters who opened the door like a battering ram before the train stopped for a quick exit!)

Great work.  Every bit of this car is interesting to see. The wiper 'gearbox' was probably virtually hand made at the Lanchester works?

Link to post
Share on other sites

We got a little further on the Lanchester today so here is an update for you.  First task was to try and install the dashboard for which the steering wheel had to be removed.  We're both used to cars where you pop off the centre and undo the big nut behind so when we popped the horn button off the Lanchester and found two brass screws behind it we weren't entirely sure how to proceed.  We did the seemingly sensible thing and attempted to undo the screws, one of which did, and one of which decided that the brass it was made of had about the same tensile strength as butter.
202010-24.thumb.jpg.f7c57bc26c921531bf89edaf00e577de.jpg

After careful application of a drill, we removed the head from the screw and got the contact plate removed to reveal... another brass screw.  Similarly this one appeared to be made of butter so it was time for the drill again.  It was also time for that sinking feeling that we weren't doing this correctly and were now too far in to go back since the first screw we removed the head from would not come out.  Neither would the second screw, they both just spin and spin.
202010-25.thumb.jpg.bcf5fc02cded9cd8756d9319866f65a7.jpg

It wasn't any clearer at this point and we're pretty sure this isn't how you do it.  Of course, now we have to remove all of this anyway to replace the brass/butter screws to stand any chance of removing the steering wheel and are no closer to getting the dashboard installed.  We made careful note of the order of components removed and have put them aside safely.  If nothing else, all of these components will at least receive a thorough clean and fresh grease before reassembly.
202010-26.thumb.jpg.972c230506953f08250ee5e04f97af80.jpg

We suspect a puller of some sort is required.  There's no sign of a grub screw or pin or similar anywhere on the steering wheel, and no sign of other fixings inside the steering wheel hub, so our current working theory based on what info we could find is that the central boss for the trafficator mechanism is a push fit onto a spline and behind it will be a large nut that holds the steering wheel on its own splined mechanism.  Dropping the steering column isn't exactly straightforward, it looks like a good amount of the preselector mechanism also needs to be disconnected to do it and we may even need to disconnect the steering box.  Rather than make things any worse, we've left this alone for now to do some research and the dashboard is on the back seat awaiting instalation.  I suppose that means we've technically put the dashboard in the car, just not the way Lanchester and Barker intended.

We had rather more success with the new jigsaw for cutting out the new door cards.  We're just waiting on the bifurcated rivets arriving so that we can put the door cards back together properly and they should be a fairly simple thing to refit, we hope.
202010-27.thumb.jpg.a8520f50485087bce8837f576060ca1f.jpg

202010-28.thumb.jpg.590a5d4a7bf48ae7bd54de7a29ce579a.jpg

For a more in depth look at how the door cards are constructed, and to hear a very loud plane we couldn't identify, there is another video.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting getting in the minds of the people who built this car.  Presumably it was a rolling chassis around which the body was constructed at Barker. Whether it came down from the Lanchester works with or without the steering and dash in situ or whether these were built in 'in house' at Barker who knows. Attached is the kind of thing Rolls Royce sold to coachbuilders.

20201011_103853.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

It was probably done on the bench so it could be hauled in and all the wires and levers be wiggled into place, the assembly clamped in and everything attached. 

This is going by various advertising films and Pathé I've seen over the years, they all seem to treat the steering column as a single item to be put in when there was space to do so, easing construction.

Once the body's on, access is bloody awkward, I should imagine, and knowing coachbuilt stuff, probably at the wrong angle with the wrong access to actually come out as an assembly because the roof is in the way...

 

Phil

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/11/2020 at 11:12 AM, colc said:

A quick Google shows that a Lanchester 10 wheel is held on by a "taper and key"...which is probably of no help whatsoever.......

Precursor to the splined shaft; all held together with a nut. 

Has one problem if it's not done up properly that the key falls out and if the wheel comes slightly loose on the taper it'll just spin. This is why steering is now done with splines.

Just make sure it's clean and torqued correctly and it won't fall off. (Same goes for any part of the car, really).

 

Phil

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

An update, but not a Lanchester one.  Work has stalled because the Princess engine needs rebuilding so my attentions are diverted that way.  As soon as I have the Princess squared away, momentum should pick back up here.  The weather is conspiring against us too, most of what's on the next phase is best done outdoors with two people in the dry and since we've now apparently entered monsoon season we've not had the free time together when it's been dry to get on with things.

We do have all the parts collected to put the door cards back together and we're almost at the point where we can put the first two back together.  Hoping to do another short video on building up the door cards to show how that goes, and another (or maybe part of the same video) showing how the steering wheel comes out and the dashboard goes in.

The wiring loom is due from now, so if we've not had that by the start of November we'll be contacting the supplier to get an eta.  Not worrying about this one just yet, we're still within the original estimated time scale.  Wiring loom is going to be a very big job when we get to it and might end up needing a headlining doing, depending on what we have to disturb.  Radiator is still waiting on schedules and funds (cheers, Princess)... we're just at one of those points where we've got to wait for a few pieces to drop into place so we can do another big push.  We'll get there.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Glad we went in the garage today to dig out some spares, turns out the excessive rain we had last night has created a little problem.

202011-Garage01.thumb.jpg.bc069a6eed3f6a5d3941248a0060adc6.jpg

This part of the roof has been a bit dodgy since we moved in but, since it was keeping the weather out, was deemed low enough priority to hopefully ignore until next year.  We learned this roof is only a couple of years old at most, and is that corrugated bitumen stuff, presumably done because it was the cheapest solution as has been the norm with the rest of the house.  Of course this has happened just as Lockdown 2 has kicked in and the weather is unlikely to improve, but hopefully we can get someone out to quickly repair it well enough to see us through the winter.

202011-Garage02.thumb.jpg.7efd717e93904d877c21b98cf485e5fb.jpg

202011-Garage03.thumb.jpg.47d6e929d09a296cf401d500e0736ae8.jpg

Lanchester isn't in immediate danger, it's still quite dry inside with no signs of mould, but it's something we'll certainly be keeping an eye on until we can get this fixed.  We'll probably replace it with some rigid polycarb sheet instead of the bitumen, there's not much cost difference and it shouldn't end up going all saggy.  We don't want to spend too much on the garage because we are planning to replace/rebuild it, but we do want to spend enough to keep it weather tight as much as possible.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know what your timescale is for replacement of the garage but the rigid polycarb stuff often doesn't last long, although it's marginally better than what's there. It's worth keeping an eye out for some corrugated galvanised sheet, when the time does come to build a new garage you can reclaim it and sell it on again.

Edit, @dozeydustman beat me to it!

Link to post
Share on other sites

We only want the roof repair to see us through the winter, so six months or so tops.  Polycarb should manage to do that.  We're wary about spending too much because eventually this garage will be replaced/modified into a double so we don't want to be investing loads into a new roof if we're just going to have to rip it all off for a new garage.

That said, no idea when we'll have the money saved up for the new garage build, there's planning permissions etc. to check which may impact the final design, and we're wanting the new garage to be at least provided with light and power.  It's pricey however you go about that sort of thing.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice to see the post back in action. Sorry about the garage - as as been said you may be able to bend it back and then support from below. A lightweight beam of old wood diagonally across the angle of the two walls and bracketted on might do it for the winter. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

    • By cobblers
      Train tickets booked from a train station 30 miles away to save £9 on the recommendation of the Mrs
      Mrs booked and primed ready to drop me off at said train station.




      Mobile tool kit primed and ready, missing almost every vital component due to EU regulations about leccy tape and screwdrivers on trains (I left them all at my mums house yesterday).
      If I do break down, I should have something to listen to while I work out whether I'm with the AA or RAC or none of the above.


      Not pictured: pile of cash
    • By philibusmo
      HI GUYS, WHATS UP?
      REMEMBER TO LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE
      After a year of very little vehicular tinkering, mostly due to lack of time and monies, I am just as broke but back fettling festering fucking heaps.
      If you've been here long enough to remember 'bump for a real thread', why the best Peugeot 405s have 20p stuck in the handbrake or the significance behind D701 SWL then you may remember me from such hits as welding up a chronically rotten Lancia Y10
      or pouring LHM all over the local area in an incontinent XM
      AND MUCH MUCH MORE
      Between then and now I have been mostly quiet on here but have still been working on multiple cars in New Zealand which mostly made the scrap in the UK look showroom fresh, there's some good stories in that lot that I'll try and type up for your unenjoyment frm time to time if I'm running out of actual new content again.
      But onto the latest tat faffing:
      In 2009 an 83 Ford Fiesta with no MOT and a fair bit of rot around the edges turned up on the driveway of my great aunty. It was a bit grotty around the edges and the old lady who owned it had given up driving so it was just sat there waiting to be taken away an cubed. Being 17 and desperate for wheels, I spotted it and persuaded my Dad that we could take it on and fix it up, which we did and got it through an MOT.
      A year went by where the holes in the wings got filled with expanding builders foam and filler, the steels were replaced with RS 4 spokes from a SuperSport and the chunky bumpers were swapped out with earlier chrome ones. While it was slowly being improved I knew it needed more substantial work and over the year I got hold of a genuine pair of front wings and a pattern front panel, then in March 2011 I taugt myself how to weld, on the few holes in the boot floor before moving to tackling the very sad inner front wings and front panel. After a respray, I hurriedly chucked it all back together in 2 days and drove it to Glasgow for the annual Mk1 Fiesta meet at Loch Lomand.
      Its looked really rather snazzy

      That was 9 years ago now though. For a couple of years I tried to buy other cars to use through winter and keep it nice, but a combination of the Fiesta being amazingly good in snow and the general unreliability of my winter beaters meant that this got used in all weathers. Then I left for four years and it was left at the back of my parents drive. Time has not been kind, rust has been bubbling through on the seams on the front and rear panels, on the wings and the scuttle for some time. On coming back, I used it for a few months through last spring and from a distance it looked grand, but up close you could see it had been a bit neglected. I ended up getting a Ford Puma and the Fiesta sat languishing at the back of the drive again for a good 6 months or so while I tried to find the time to fix it, then lock down occurred!
      I started on the back, no photos of what it looked like before I started but it really wasn't pretty. Holes on either side of the boot floor, a big old hole on the passenger side of the rear panel and a very scruffy edge to the drivers side where it meets the rear quarter. After scrubbing back all the rust, trating the surface rust and welding in new metal, it looked like this after a first smear of filler.
      With a bit more work and some paint, it now looks like this. I've run out of paint and am struggling to get hold of any decent Ford 'Ocean Blue' at the moment but I'll get some more layers on as soon as I can.


      The corners of the boot floor have also had a tickle with the MIG:


      The seam behind the boot latch, under the boot seal had also rotted out, so that's also been ground out and new metal let in. I haven't got too prissy with the filler and how this edge looks, seeing as it will be hidden.

      On the original restoration I did have the good idea to make the wings bolt on as they were originally held on with spot welds and I wanted to be able to get behind them to clean out and rust proof behind. Obviously these good intentions never came to anything and they've not moved until I pulled them off about 2 weeks ago. The passenger side needed a bit of complicated work close to the leading edge of the door. leading into the inner arch and floor pan. No before pictures but it looks alright all welded up and covered in seam sealer, red oxide and Hammerite. I've got some proper Dinitrol stone chip stuff on the way which I'll spray around under here to try and protect it a bit better than it was before.

      The drivers side is probably a bit worse, a hole in an awkward spot at the bottom behind the wheel , a hole below the scuttle drain and a big old load of rust all around a box section that runs across the back of the inner wheel arch.

       
      Today I managed to weld up the majority of this mess There is no longer a big hole in the floor and the bit below the scuttle drain is solid. Just the outer edge down next to the door and the outside rectangle on the box section to fix up. Probably an afternoons work if you exclude waiting for paint to dry. I need to make a decision on if I try and find the spot welds for the front panel and take it off to de-rust it properly. It looks a bit nasty on the front edge, but behind, my cheap seam sealer and hammerite has cracked, letting water into the joints between the panel and the inner wings and cross member. I don't really want to take it off as it's going to be a bastard to line all the panels up again but it might be for the best in the long run unless there is some fantastic (probably Bilt Hamber) product that can creep into the joints and fuck up the rust.


      There's also this spot under the windscreen on the scuttle panel which I'm dreading, if only because the screen will need to come out which will almost certainly mean it will break and then it will start raining.

      I'll make some decision on this tomorrow. I've got some time on my hands because tomorrow the Fiesta will have to wait because it's chod collection time!
      To be continued.
    • By Peter C
      Woke up this morning, had a little time before I had to leave the house for work, had a quick look at what’s new for sale on Retro Rides and saw an ad for a W124 200E manual, located 15 miles from home. I had no intention of buying a car today but I had to have it! I called the seller and arranged a viewing.
       
      Faults:
       
      2 x rusty front wings (TADTS)
      1 x rusty rear arch
      Needs a polish
      Tracking is out because new track rod end was fitted for MoT
      Engine has oil leak/s
       
      Good points:
       
      It’s a W124 200E!
      5 speed manual transmission
      New clutch
      Brand new MoT
      Superb MoT history
      4 x as new Continental tyres
      Last owner for 15 years, her husband before that for 4 years
      Very tidy MB-Tex interior
      Drives well
      All electrics work
       
      The dealer kindly delivered the car to my house but I managed a pez station shot on route:
       

       
      Plans:
       
      Remove front wings, cut away rust and apply plenty of wob.
      In-situ similar repair for rear arch
      Clean and polish
      Service engine
      Adjust tracking
      Leave patina and enjoy the car as it is
       
      I will update this thread once progress is made.
       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       
      Hopefully these two will become good friends.
       

    • By Shirley Knott
      Greetings all.
       
      After lurking here for a short while, frankly liking what I see and enjoying the various shite, the site has well and truly struck a chord with me. I'm a serial buyer of ropey sub £1k vehicles, don't have to but genuinely enjoy it.
       
      I feel like I might (Just might) have found my 'spiritual' home here
       
      I've been posting across the web on owner specific forums (Usually using either my JoeyEunos or RandomPrecion handles) for a while now, but from here-on-in I will pull my threads together and merge them here into one ghastly topic.
       
      My current steeds...
       
      Lupo 1.7 SDI
       
      SAM_5560 by
       
      and the work/story so far...http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/102863-joeyeunoss-sdi-beater/
       
      Golf Mk4 SDI
       
       
      SAM_5531 by
       
      and the thread.... http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/597074-project-slow/
       
      Early (1989) Mk1 Eunos (This one was recently sold)
       
      SAM_4656 by
       
      the thread...http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=213274
       
      Other shite I've owned and moved on in the last year include this ropey Passat...
       
      SAM_6011 by
       
      and this legendary £300 Fiesta Finesse...
       
      Festa by
       
      Cars I'd like to own/actively looking for in the forthcoming weeks/months/years...
       
      Rover 75 (Dizzler)
      Peugeot 405 (XUD)
      Mk1 Octavia (Estate/dizzler, pre pd or SDI)
      Honda CRV (Gen1)
      Volvo 240/850
    • By sutty2006
      Usually my comute to work is boring and miserable, especially in winter. All of 4 miles doesnt even get the old girl warm. But yesterdays antics saw an audi Q7 side swipe me when he realised he was in the wrong lane and was too lazy to go back round the roundabout.
       
      Now, I know this community is vast, and wide..... Ive found a drivers door in silver, but he doesnt have the rear. Has anyone seen or heard of anyone breaking/or a carlton in a scrappy thats silver? if need be, I'll get the door painted if its the wrong colour. Insurance have been informed due to the ill temper he had when we stopped... and the fact that he thought i was in the wrong when actually, I was right. (dash cams, i recommend them)
       
      And yes, my old chod has been injured...... but she will live on!

×
×
  • Create New...