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1951 Lanchester LD10 - Rear Wing Removal


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@Remspoor all the cardboard (or whatever they actually are, I'm not sure) boards salvaged happily so it turned out okay in the end.

@lesapandre it's a double filament bulb dim/dip in both headlights rather than anything exciting like a single-dip or mechanical dip on a single filament bulb.

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  • vulgalour changed the title to 1951 Lanchester LD10 - Sale Aborted, Hoorah!

A gratuitous LD10 pic or two. This car and vulgalours are responsible for me joining AS. Andy round the corner, aquired it from someone who realised he'd never finish it and got it into this condition over a good few years. Probably started from a similar position to yours though. Thought he'd get it on the road fairly easily, but ended up a complete restoration. Can't quite forgive him for changing the colour from black, but it does look good. Just completed a coast to coast run in it. His LA10 isn't such a happy tale. Big end failure resulted in it being recovered and it sits waiting attention. It did do a run to the Netherlands a few years back, though. IMG_20230909_175241.thumb.jpg.278b7af853d3a79b9b6998d082634c7d.jpgIMG_20230909_175110.thumb.jpg.4eac326fafb0fdbceb0426dbf71536f6.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • vulgalour changed the title to 1951 Lanchester LD10 - Lights

I just finishing watching this. Frustrating but you are methodical and all ended up well.

Great work.  I have some questions.

Are you going to add a relay on the headlamp circuit? The old wiring and switches  are not made for the load that H4 bulbs  have.

How do you adjust the head lamp aim? I assume by moving the pod around. Is that correct?

Where are the indicators at the rear?

Have you tried the brakes with the lights lit? Sometimes on of the circuits in use means the other one will dim.

The bullet may have been that the earth for the number plate may at one time been longer.

What is the spanner in the boot? Why has  it got extra cuts at the tips of the jaws, as it it was used on a lager nut.

Top tip: Keep a note of any changes to the wiring in a sketch and keep it in the manual for future reference.


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To answer the questions:

Headlight relay - I should add one.  I haven't added one.  I did recently acquire some better headlight connectors so I can certainly improve things up front.

Indicators - at the rear it will be a pair of high level ones mounted on the parcel shelf so they're visible through the rear screen at eye level, along with a high level brake light.

Function - I haven't tried the brake lights with the lights lit yet.  We still need to get the brakes adjusted properly because although we now have a functional switch, something is out of adjustment preventing mechanical engagement.

Spanner - It's a mahoosive spanner a neighbour gave us.  We have no idea what it was for or from, entirely possible it's for heavier machinery than we're ever likely to work on.

Wiring Changes - There isn't actually any changes to the harness bought, just the physical routing of the wiring.  That said, we will be making a wiring diagram to suit the car once we've figured it all out.

Headlight Aim - the headlight has a threaded stem through which the wiring passes.  This slots into a socket that also serves as one of the front wing supports.  A nut is wound on to the threaded stem to secure the headlight.  To aim, slacken the nut, move the whole headlight to the position required, and tighten the nut.  There's a ball and cup socket arrangement incorporated into the wing bracket and the headlight bowl itself.  This nut slackening off is also why you often see elderly stuff with droopy headlights at shows, it's not the most convenient system to adjust and most of these sorts of vehicles don't get much night driving.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • vulgalour changed the title to 1951 Lanchester LD10 - Rear Wing Removal

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