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Fabergé Greggs: Morris tinkering

Fabergé Greggs

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1 hour ago, BeEP said:

There was never an extra engine steady on models with the 'remote' gearchange (as the Morris has).  The gearchange extension itself provides the steadying effect.  Later models with the 'rod' change box had steady bars from offside end of block to rear top of subframe and from nearside end of gearbox to the subframe behind it.  The latter can be fitted to models with the earlier box by drilling one hole in the subframe. The former requires the corresponding bracket (which was built into the subframe) and switching to the later clutch slave cylinder with the bleed nipple on top, as the bar fouls the nipple at the rear of the cylinder.

Aftermarket steady bars were made for the ado16; I used to have one made by Cosmic (better known for their wheels) but unfortunately sold it a few years ago.

There should be a bracket from the bottom of the exhaust downpipe to the gearbox/diff.  I can't remember exactly what I did on the Morris but I know I put something on!

Yeah there’s a U-clamp there which does seems to do a good job of keeping it steady- I had a look around for the proper clamp but couldn’t seen to find one. I’m loving your suggestion of sorting this with the above manifold- seems like it should be a much more robust connection.. 

what size of clamp would this new join need? Is it 1 3/8? 



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1 hour ago, Fabergé Greggs said:

what size of clamp would this new join need? Is it 1 3/8?

Now you're testing me!  I do have one of those manifolds on the shelf, albeit modified at the top to match a MG Metro inlet (which is thicker) and missing the outer sheath at the bottom, so I'll have a look tomorrow and make a guestimate.

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  • Fabergé Greggs changed the title to Fabergé Greggs: 1 litre beater

Now where are we with the fleet? 

Having done everything to it, I sold the Vespa sprint and I'm backing using my much loved LML- it's just generally more stress-free leaving it about the place. 

I acquired this 1 litre beater as a suitable chariot for the learner driver of the household, but I've been loving it too! It's ridiculously upright and tiny and the most basic of base. Specs include: 

  • Electric mirrors 

And nothing else. Locking is manual on each door with a key FFS. Was that even still a thing in 2006? 




The reason it's so great is all that SPACE in something SO TINY 


Parking turns out to be something to look forward to it's so bloody tiny. 


It's got 3 cylinders totalling 950 or so cc, and yes of course it's objectively slow but it's also surprisingly willing- torquey and yet quite willing to rev. It's almost exotic sounding isn't it? Okay, almost. 

If you listen to start of that video you can hear the fuel pump. At various times it sounds like it's going to self destruct- I really need to change it before it self destructs somewhere on the motorway in the rain. The problem is I hate spending money in garages on modern cars and I hate working on modern cars and it's a tank out job. 

The 3 cylinder roar is pretty characterful, verging on rough when cold. I've lobbed some injector cleaner in and cleaned the MAF and it seems to be smoother after a bit of an Italian tune-up. I should probably clean the throttle body too but that looks ever so slightly more involved.

Other niggles include the need to get a set of tires. The ones on these are all mismatched and I've become a right tire fusspot in my old age- I don't think they're doing anything to help the laughable handling. Hence the request for some wheels that would fit it in my wanted thread. It had a nasty wobble at 60-70mph before so I got the front set balanced which definitely improved things- the bloke said that it had a big dent in the front left rim that he hammered out. It's better but still there so maybe I need to get the rears balanced too or just get a new set. 

I'm off up to Scotland soon so I either need to do the drive in this (I'd happily do it if the wobble was fixed and fuel pump done), Morris (madness) or Saab, as a last hurrah before the ULEZ takes it forever. 

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New manifold arrived for the Morris thanks to the tip-off from @BeEP so I set about the manly task of turning my borked manifold into an inlet. 


Much, much grinding ensued. 


Getting closer 


It was at this point that I thought, "hang on, this inlet is located on the studs by the exhaust part of the manifold, this ain't gonna work". 


I think I'm gonna need something like this that properly locates in the studs. 


I'm guessing I can do away with the water heating. 

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  • Fabergé Greggs changed the title to Fabergé Greggs: Morris tinkering

Provided you are careful (and have ground enough metal off the manifold so it doesn't 'sit' on the exhaust manifold) you can locate it accurately enough by simply lining up the flanges with those of the exhaust manifold.  I ran my 1300 estate (RIP) like this for years without a problem, and the white 1300 with GT engine I bought last year now has a similar set-up fitted, albeit it is still a few jobs away from being on the road.  Obviously you could also go down the aftermarket water-heated manifold path; the 1100's heater pipe is ideally situated for routing through the manifold; I have this set up on the limeflower 1100.

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On 5/3/2021 at 3:04 PM, Dave_Q said:

Good reports on this type of thing on the Expert/Dispatch groups:


I think any paint is just going to end up painting your hands.

Definitely one of those; there are a few positive reviews for these on PistonFascist, although "real PU leather" sounds like it's made from the hide of the rare Nauga beast rather than cows.

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