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Fabergé Greggs: Camper Master Cylinder woes


Fabergé Greggs

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12 hours ago, Fabergé Greggs said:

Good advice thanks! Out of interest, what’s the science behind it failing in this way? Ie, why is it only failing with vacuum assistance? Is it just as simple as a failing seal? 

A dodgy seal does tend to behave in really random ways sometimes. If there's any rust inside the bore it gets even more baffling with the sometimes working, sometimes not.

Excellent purchase btw. The fail sheet doesn't look bad at all for the age of it. The split boots are indeed shite but it would buy you a pass until the warmer weather if you felt like tackling it properly further down the line.

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  • Fabergé Greggs changed the title to Fabergé Greggs: Camper Master Cylinder woes

I had a jolly time today changing the master cylinder on the camper. It was all going soooo well. 

Out with the old, in with the new 

IMG_1028.thumb.jpeg.318ebcbce8e89e52660d79b9330b9c00.jpeg

BUT WAIT! It was only after I fitted it that I noticed that the new one has a bit of a protrusion that means that this union bit doesn't quite fit.. 

IMG_1029.thumb.jpeg.4231fb6548b1a3222eb7eea737b96434.jpegIMG_1031.thumb.jpeg.0188c0f8c3f464b5d2e2bd9b83426ef0.jpeg

 

Should I 

A) take it apart, send it back and get the right one 

B ) Use two/three crush washers like a total arse? 

 

 

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If it's pretty easy/cheap to get one that's right then A, otherwise I personally would gently* take a grinder to the m/c or the fitting to make it fit, being very careful to barely grind the sealing faces at all and only get a medium amount of metal filings into the hydraulic system.

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4 hours ago, Fabergé Greggs said:

I had a jolly time today changing the master cylinder on the camper. It was all going soooo well. 

Out with the old, in with the new 

IMG_1028.thumb.jpeg.318ebcbce8e89e52660d79b9330b9c00.jpeg

BUT WAIT! It was only after I fitted it that I noticed that the new one has a bit of a protrusion that means that this union bit doesn't quite fit.. 

IMG_1029.thumb.jpeg.4231fb6548b1a3222eb7eea737b96434.jpegIMG_1031.thumb.jpeg.0188c0f8c3f464b5d2e2bd9b83426ef0.jpeg

 

Should I 

A) take it apart, send it back and get the right one 

B ) Use two/three crush washers like a total arse? 

 

 

Option b. You know it's wrong but it feels so right 😆

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On 3/29/2023 at 9:33 PM, Dave_Q said:

If it's pretty easy/cheap to get one that's right then A, otherwise I personally would gently* take a grinder to the m/c or the fitting to make it fit, being very careful to barely grind the sealing faces at all and only get a medium amount of metal filings into the hydraulic system.

 

On 3/29/2023 at 10:08 PM, artdjones said:

I would file the fitting just file the protruding bit until it's level with the sealing surface. It should be possible to do that without impinging on where the sealing washer sits. Don't use a grinder, the smallest slip could ruin it all. 

Would I be better to file the M/C (iron or sommat?) or fitting (brass?) 

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On 3/31/2023 at 11:27 AM, Crackers said:

You still got that Focus, mister?

Yeah! It’s still ace! Just got back from a 1200 mile round trip to Scotland in fact. I’ve kind of outgrown it, but rather than getting something bigger and inferior I’ve just got a humongous roof box.

AC462C0A-A51F-4ED7-826B-BF499A4BF529.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Fabergé Greggs said:

 

Would I be better to file the M/C (iron or sommat?) or fitting (brass?) 

Probably the fitting. Is there any way to make a new pipe that just screws straight into the m/c. That fitting is there to avoid having a very tight 90°bend in the pipe, probably to make it easier to deal with the air cleaner. But it probably would be possible to make a tight bend in a new hard brake line that would do the job. Something like this:-

IMG_1217edited__16614.thumb.jpg.17553b8260be9d31b468118e08582ecb.jpg

IMG_20230407_192420.thumb.jpg.45138b152c7e4e3c9e39365a5e7ab3b4.jpg

That should still allow room for air cleaner removal.

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55 minutes ago, artdjones said:

Probably the fitting. Is there any way to make a new pipe that just screws straight into the m/c. That fitting is there to avoid having a very tight 90°bend in the pipe, probably to make it easier to deal with the air cleaner. But it probably would be possible to make a tight bend in a new hard brake line that would do the job. Something like this:-

IMG_1217edited__16614.thumb.jpg.17553b8260be9d31b468118e08582ecb.jpg

IMG_20230407_192420.thumb.jpg.45138b152c7e4e3c9e39365a5e7ab3b4.jpg

That should still allow room for air cleaner removal.

Good shout but the fitting also joins 2 brake pipes into the one outlet on the M/C. 
 

Thinking a bit more about it, I reckon I’ll screw in a sacrificial banjo bolt and crush washer to use as a guide for grinding the M/C. That way if I take a tiny chunk out by accident it will protect the sealing surface 

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That went well using a cutting disc on a dremel with a washer as a guide. I was miles away from the sealing surface. 
 

it’s all back together with the pedal jammed down with wood- I’ve had success with that bleeding method before but I’ve never known why it works.. 

3496E1D8-6FCF-4495-A333-ABB7CB883ABB.jpeg

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44 minutes ago, Fabergé Greggs said:

it’s all back together with the pedal jammed down with wood- I’ve had success with that bleeding method before but I’ve never known why it works.. 

I was told it allows air trapped in the system to 'float' up into the master cylinder overnight. Next day when you allow the pedal up the air gets pushed out of the master cylinder up into the reservoir.
Only time I tried it was on a Renault Master clutch  but that turned out to have a shagged slave thingy (one that hides in the bellhousing - b*stard thing).

There was also a story about the old Series Land Rovers that if you parked them uphill overnight you could do the same with their brakes - never got that to work :-( 

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I've had success with the "lazy leg" method of bleeding before.  The argument given to me was that the seals in the system are liquid-tight, but not gas tight, so if you leave the system with pressure in it, any air bubble adjacent to a seal will leak out past said seal.

Sounded like a load of old rubbish to me, but the process worked.

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