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Toyota RAV4 GX "Jack" - Phil 'in me cracks in.


St.Jude
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2 hours ago, jonathan_dyane said:

If it makes you feel any better I haven’t received my order from the 29th from AUTODOC. Probably thrown in sea because Brexit.

Well I looked in to this, given I have nothing better for doing.

According to the GLS website (who Autodoc use in Germany), delivery times won't be changed as long as the documents are correct from the sender. So given that GLS have the parcels, you'd expect that this would be alright.

However there is this link outlining the coronavirus shite and again, nothing seems untoward: https://gls-group.eu/GROUP/media/downloads/Current_Info_International_Parcel_Service_2021-01-14.pdf

Except for the weight limit of the parcel has been reduced to 31kg. According to the invoice, the arms for me are 4kg each. 

So christ knows what's going on.

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It’s not just stuff from overseas struggling to get to the UK.  My folks have a parcel for me in the UK which they aren’t allowed to send out to New Zealand.  Both Covid and Brexit have been quoted as reasons although I think the latter is bollocks because Doris in the post office will say any old shit.

One things for sure - if European suppliers can’t get parts into the UK, that just leaves UK based providers with less competition.   Provided they themselves can get parts it means prices are only going to go one way so maybe stock up on consumables...

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10 hours ago, Parky said:

One things for sure - if European suppliers can’t get parts into the UK, that just leaves UK based providers with less competition.   Provided they themselves can get parts it means prices are only going to go one way so maybe stock up on consumables...

I did think that.

I know at Halfrauds right now, they're selling 4ltr jugs of Castrol Magnatec for about £17. Going out at lunch to pick some things up so may buy a few jugs for the Peugeot and RAV4 as they're both desperate for a service.

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3 minutes ago, Kiltox said:

Autodoc were slow before Brexit - it’s not necessarily the cause. Prefer not to use them where possible as a result, tbh. 

Oh I know. They usually take 2 weeks, well every time I've used them up to about October anyway. A week to pick the part, a week to get it here. But this time it's ridiculous and, in fairness to them, it's the delivery part that's taken a longer time than normal.

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This will be interesting reading for those of us with Autodoc parcels, especially @TrabbieRonnie.

The wife, unbeknownst to me, has bought us a canvas print of our wedding photo. She's received an email from the people she bought it from (in Germany, apparently) informing them of delays with GLS. "We regret to inform you that parcels sent recently to the UK with GLS have been subject to significant delays, due to Brexit-related customs clearance issues". A quick look on twitter and you see a lot of other people struggling with parcels that were given to GLS around the 4th/6th January. 

Nice thing about the canvas people is that they're giving people affected £20 off an order. I haven't asked how much she's spent on it for that sort of discount, but it's quite a nice gesture.

Yet, here we all are, twiddling thumbs while Autodoc let us know what's going on with our parcels!

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4 hours ago, Kiltox said:

Autodoc were slow before Brexit - it’s not necessarily the cause. Prefer not to use them where possible as a result, tbh. 

Not defending the UK government here or Brexit whatsoever but this statement is correct.
I like Autodoc a lot. The choice of being able to select the quality level of the part you require is the best I’ve ever found but delivery is painful. If I need anything in a rush I.e. quicker than 2-3 weeks I wouldn’t use Autodoc.

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5 hours ago, Ian_Fearn said:

Not defending the UK government here or Brexit whatsoever but this statement is correct.
I like Autodoc a lot. The choice of being able to select the quality level of the part you require is the best I’ve ever found but delivery is painful. If I need anything in a rush I.e. quicker than 2-3 weeks I wouldn’t use Autodoc.

How much do you pay for delivery? In Ireland it was always €20 which was tolerable, although I think more than they charged other countries, but now it's €30, even for one item.

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Wish I'd read this before ordering my coil and leads from Autodoc... not like I need the car or anything :huh: I don't think the bits have made it out of Germany yet...

Not a great show, given that I can order stuff off Amazon and have it delivered in a smaller number of hours, than Autodoc take in days...

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1 hour ago, jonathan_dyane said:

My parcel arrived today, hopefully yours will shortly 

Nope. I've been checking it twice a day like it's a lump on my ball sack. Still absolutely nothing has shifted since the 6th January. 

52 minutes ago, Crackers said:

Wish I'd read this before ordering my coil and leads from Autodoc... not like I need the car or anything :huh: I don't think the bits have made it out of Germany yet...

Not a great show, given that I can order stuff off Amazon and have it delivered in a smaller number of hours, than Autodoc take in days...

For once I don't think it's Autodoc's fault. They took the week to get it picked and sent to GLS. It's GLS who are the issue now. 

Having looked at Twitter, I'm not the only one from the UK having issues. Although it's a worry that GLS are saying to speak to Parcelforce (not to me, someone else) because GLS don't have a UK account. I've sent Autodoc an email to wait for the inevitable "Speak to GLS" reply.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick update, in lieu of access to a laptop and plus I'm frozen with the f**king cold.

Jack's on axle stands now, I've taken the new subframe and put it underneath, looking to see if it fits. It's looking good!

I've removed one bolt, attaching the wishbone to the subframe on the passenger side. My brand new DeWalt 950nm unga dunga got that off no bother, but has stopped dead with the driver side. It's too cold and wet to do any more tonight, so I will be at it tomorrow.

Very happy so far though. Autodoc parts turned up Thursday (as can be seen on the Autodoc delivery thread), need to buy two bushes for the wishbones though as I'd like to change them given I'll have it all apart.

Huzzar!

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It's just as well the subframe I bought looks to be the right one, because I don't think the current one is salvageable!

IMG_20210206_124733_642.thumb.jpg.5babd33ecbb31faa29bda9a23588e959.jpg

I took the bolt off that holds this to the chassis, and that arm just fell off. I didn't even need to tap it.

I have a leaky oil sump pan to contend with now while I've got the subframe off. Might as well do the timing belt too. Although at the same time, I've torn my jumper on the door, I've broken a rounded nut extractor, I've hurt my shoulder because the DeWalt gun I've got won't shift half of the bolts there so I'm having to use manual labour, and it's not even 1pm yet. So I'm not even sure if I should attempt those today given the absolute shithousery of a day I'm having already!

Still, could be worse. I could've hit a pot hole and had the whole subframe torn off from under me. 

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1 minute ago, warch said:

Bloody Nora! That's some pretty crusty shit going on under there. Is the shell bad too or it is 'just' the subframe and running gear. 

 

The subframe is mostly rust, it makes a good shaker too. Where the frame bolts on to the car is alright though. The wishbones aren't that far behind the subframe but I've got replacements. 

The rusty thing behind the thing I'm holding is the subframe by the way. Running gear is grand.

IMG_20210206_124049.thumb.jpg.6a98b98792812f92a148de520471c0b4.jpg

New one on the right, old one is on the left.

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Bloody road salt, I start to wonder if it'd be better if they didn't bother.

In all fairness many cars with those pressed steel subframes suffer similar corrosion problems. My brother's 13 year old X type has some rust holes in the front subframe. As long as you have some good car to get bolt things back to you'll be ok. 

Good luck, I expect to see gratuitous photographs of the new metal getting bolted into place. 

 

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Well fucking everything that could go wrong went wrong. I eventually got the sump off, managed to Nick it a little which I think I sorted out, to then putting the RTV on, and one nut wouldn't go back on to the car. The nut then decided to separate, as in the collar of the nut stayed on the stud, and the hexagonal bit stayed on the socket. So I've all the nuts and bolts back on the sump to the engine bar that one, and the RTV has gone off.

Literally never had a day like this before, not even when I was depressed and trying to work on the Corolla. I have never known a day to just keep putting obstacles and fucking everything up as much as today. 

The only thing that went right was spraying the treated rusty parts of the car. And even then the can was playing up.

I'm praying for snow tomorrow so I don't have to find another excuse to go out and fix that fucking car.

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2 hours ago, Wgl2019 said:

As a UK based Autodoc alternative has anyone used Parts In Motion?

https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/

Seem reasonable price and stock.....

I have for the Corolla, but only through eBay. I didn't know they had a website so I'll check it out.

Also here are gratuitous photos of the shithousery from today.

 

IMG_20210206_150212.jpg

IMG_20210206_150221.jpg

IMG_20210206_150236.jpg

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I certainly feel your pain on this one. It reminds me I also did the sump on my Mr2. A properly messy crap job.

I think the sump should be OK despite that single nut problem. The rtv stuff does a proper job and the rest of the nuts should hold it. Hopefully no leaks.

Cheering you on with this as I know how hard it is. At least I did mine in Summer, haha.

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  • St.Jude changed the title to Toyota RAV4 GX "Jack" - Broken nuts, bolts, and spirit.

I gathered myself up, got my glad rags on, stepped out the door, did a bit to camera while I saw it start to snow. And the wind blew, and as I spoke about what happened, the will to actually do anything wilted with it. So I put some stone chip on the parts of the underside that I zinc sprayed last night, swamped the stud on the sump pan with some RTV, went back inside and watched The Simpsons instead.

IMG_20210207_122715.thumb.jpg.94a98f0ad3c57313fa76465143a3fc4f.jpg

As the day went on though, guilt started to hit me. So I took the cross member, put some rust converter on it, then sprayed stone chip on that.

IMG_20210207_165619.thumb.jpg.8d7034afaa9be4505c6e9856fd55526d.jpg

I'm now going in to the week where I can only spend week nights on it, so I may ask my gaffer for a day off Friday just to spend the day smashing this so I can move on to the rotten sill. Then it'll be MOT ready.

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So while today is dry, it's freezing. I don't have a thermometer, but the met office reckons it's -1c here feeling more like -7c. And I can believe that.

I was out here for 2 1/2 hours, 2 hours spent trying to extract the broken cross member bolt. I started drilling it, for an hour, and got absolutely no where with that. These are Grade 10 bolts after all.

I took my multi tool and used it with the smallest blade I had, which was a perfect fit, and cut a slot in the bolt. I've got a screwdriver with a ratchet, wasn't having it at all. 

IMG_20210213_133844.thumb.jpg.7138a5a68c5c8a90e16b258cb7b26d31.jpg

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The wife is out in the car so I couldn't get to B&Q to get hold of a blow torch, or various nuts to weld on to that thing.

Short of cutting that section of the frame out, what's everyone's thoughts on just leaving it as it is and using one bolt to hold the cross member at the front?

I'm tempted. But that's because I've frozen myself solid for two hours on this and my famous enthusiasm for lost causes is starting to book holidays for a week of banging my head against a wall instead. 

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4 minutes ago, primeradoner said:

Given that it will be rusted above the captive nut have you nor tried to tighten it so it goes right through and drops into the chassis rail. This worked for me on a sierra anti roll bar bolt.

I gave it a half arsed try, as the screwdriver kept slipping out as it didn't break clean. When I go back to it I'll keep cutting the slot deeper to give the screwdriver more purchase, and try screwing it the other way.

The length of the bolt is ridiculous given that the captive nut itself isn't that tall. 

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20 minutes ago, sgtberbatov said:

The length of the bolt is ridiculous given that the captive nut itself isn't that tall. 

In that case. Does it protrude through the top and maybe get some locking mole grips on it.

Or drill out and use a proper nut on the other size.

Or offer the subframe up and just splatter it with weld because hopefully it will never need to come off again.

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7 minutes ago, Agila said:

In that case. Does it protrude through the top and maybe get some locking mole grips on it.

Or drill out and use a proper nut on the other size.

Or offer the subframe up and just splatter it with weld because hopefully it will never need to come off again.

It probably does, but it goes in to an enclosed space. So I would have to cut around the nut to get access to the bolt on the other side. 

This is for the cross member, which goes north to south and goes between the rear engine mount and the subframe. The thought crossed my mind to just weld it on, but then I thought that's a bit of a dick move to the next person who owns this and has to have it. 

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  • St.Jude changed the title to Toyota RAV4 GX "Jack" - Phil 'in me cracks in.

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