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1976 Opel Manta coupe. A long haul project. Engine running!


sutty2006

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I have used a loom from a later 78 berlinetta, so the earlier alternator setup isn’t present on this. 

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Chucked another gallon of go go juice in the old girl today along with a shot of lead replacement and the fuel gauge definitely works! 
 

 

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10 hours ago, sutty2006 said:

I have used a loom from a later 78 berlinetta, so the earlier alternator setup isn’t present on this. 

I honestly don't remember the wiring, can't have been that difficult if I did it as a kid!! I remember driving home from Wraysbury one night and noticing the lights seemed bright, the voltage had gone high so I switched everything on possible to load the alternator up. That was when I fitted the '76 alternator and it may have gone into my '85 GTE Coupe with the Ascona engine and fuel injection that was an easy retro fit to an Ascona B.

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More done tonight. 
 

had to cut the captains rear shocker off as the bolt was seized in the metal bushing. 
 

chop chop
 

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luckily the metal bushing has a pre-made slit, good enough to jam a screwdriver right up there and then hammered the bolt out. 
 

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new on. 
 

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and also chucked the new cylinder and shoes on. 
 

waiting for new drums now. 

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7 hours ago, sutty2006 said:

had to cut the captains rear shocker off as the bolt was seized in the metal bushing. 

Just sat and read through the whole thread again, I see you did the drinkers side previously. 

My memory needs refreshing, does the electronic ignition still use the ballast wire buried in the wiring loom? 

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23 minutes ago, Snake Charmer said:

Just sat and read through the whole thread again, I see you did the drinkers side previously. 

My memory needs refreshing, does the electronic ignition still use the ballast wire buried in the wiring loom? 

I’ve no idea, when it comes to ballasts etc I start getting confused but I’m fairly certain the electronic ignition doesn’t need a separate ballast. I’m not great with lightning side of things. 

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Last night I temp fitted the drivers seat. I will have to mark up and re drill the right rear clamp mount holes this week. 
 

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I forgot they were fixed, hopefully I get on with the position, otherwise I’ll be fitting the recaros out of my other one. 
 

in a bid to get dash lights working, I now need a brake reservoir cap. Which is proving hard to find. 
 

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@Snake Charmer I don’t suppose you have one in your huge box of spares? 

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3 hours ago, sutty2006 said:

@Snake Charmer I don’t suppose you have one in your huge box of spares?

There are a couple of master cylinders in there, it will be a while before I pull all that lot out again though. You can check the light works by shorting the wires, the switch only makes contact when the level is low. Do you have the clutch and handbrake switches?

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1 hour ago, Snake Charmer said:

There are a couple of master cylinders in there, it will be a while before I pull all that lot out again though. You can check the light works by shorting the wires, the switch only makes con when the level is low. Do you have the clutch and handbrake switches?

Got to connect the handbrake switch, I will bridge it until it I’ve found a suitable cap. Just need to find out which wires it is now. I hate the Haynes manual it’s so hit n miss 🤣

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@sutty2006  This might give you some idea how a ballast-ed ignition feed works. The ballast resistor can be as shown, or be a thin resistance wire within the wiring loom, connected between the coil and ignition switch.

https://blog.simonbbc.com/ballast-resistors-resistance-and-coils/

https://www.erareplicas.com/427man/wiring/ignition.htm

As @Snake Charmer says, the switch in the brake master cylinder floats on the brake fluid, so stays open circuit, and the warning light stays off. If the fluid level drops to a certain minimum, the switch will close, so the light will come on.  Shorting the wires together is only a test for the light, they normally are open circuit when connected to the cylinder cap. Test the switch by connecting it to the cap as it should be, then lift it out of the cylinder, and fluid. (careful with fluid drips!) The light will come on. Push the float up, and the light will go out. 

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I’m still trying to find out which wires they are, but I’m hindering towards the fact that it might not be fitted with the warning system. The Haynes manual wiring diagram doesn’t have a “brake reservoir warning light” option. 

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I think my '76 Manta and '77 Cavalier had a normal cap with no float, that may have been introduced with the 2ltr cars.

This is a Ford reservoir, ATE I think.

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If you have fitted the 6 dial dash and a '78 loom, does your steering column stalk have the 3 position wiper switch?  My '76 did not have intermittent wipe just two speeds.

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3 minutes ago, Snake Charmer said:

I think my '76 Manta and '77 Cavalier had a normal cap with no float, that may have been introduced with the 2ltr cars.

This is a Ford reservoir, ATE I think.

20240611_102424.jpg.d5b0abecc4fec169da9782cb3dc3e463.jpg

If you have fitted the 6 dial dash and a '78 loom, does your steering column stalk have the 3 position wiper switch?  My '76 did not have intermittent wipe just two speeds.

I still have the original wiper switch, on, and on fast. But not intermittent. Fast doesn’t work though. 

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I remember a chap phoning when I broke the '76 car asking if the wiper motor was two or 3 speed as he was having trouble locating one and that was probably 1986.

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Turns out the wiring isn’t there. 
 

light works as it should when the switch wire is earthed. 
 

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so I took the lever out and the switch is toast. 
 

I knew I had one spare somewhere. 
 

ohh… 

 

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now on the hunt for a handbrake switch 

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