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Daihatsu Fourtrak - More welding than the Bismarck


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These old things really are a great workhorse, well worth a save as like the saying goes, they’ll never make another one like it.

This ones a funny car, above sill level the body is good. It’s only done 81k, and being a TDX, has luxuries not seen on any other tractor, such as electric windows, mirrors and stuff like central locking.

Naturally, every last thing on it worked properly. Despite being crustier than a stale baguette, I’d been using around the farm where it’s stored for the last couple of years, with a length of scaffold tube stuffed into the broken crossmember! The old beast pulled trailers like that, towed a car out the car park with three wheels jammed etc, truly a great thing. It deserves another chance in my opinion, and I reckon I’ll get it pretty tidy eventually. 
 

I do have a contact who can fix the tank. Unfortunately when I mentioned it was from a fourtrak, he turned a funny colour, so I think he’s done one before.

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There were two of these, more or less the same era as yours, for sale in a really crappy garage in Eardisley, Herefordshire in the summer - ironically the exact site was a Daihatsu dealer around 30 years ago.

They were both up for around £2.5k and didn’t look particularly presentable from a quick drive-by.  Asking if either example had a valid MoT would probably have been met with laughter.

They were sold within the week - these things do have hardcore fans.

There are still quite a few around the area. I think the last were registered in mid 2001 - I’ve seen X and Y plate ones but never a ‘51’. 

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IMG_6050.jpg

I thought mine had silver arches as well but my memory let me down, they were body colour in blue. And mud.

Paintwork was unbelievably tough on it, got loads of bush / tree scratches on it yet a thorough machine polish a few times a year saw it gleaming

 

My mate had to go one better than me through that mud/water hole though. One of the better pictures I've ever taken, even if I did get showered in muddy water and chunks of ice...

IMG_6046.jpg

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Progress achieved:

Broke out the welder and grinder and got a good four hours in today.

- repaired n/s/r body mount

- repaired nearside rear boot floor, and the lower 4 inches of the inner arch. 
 

I reckon there’s about another 6 hours in the rear arch this side to do. Then it’s the floor, sills and inner sills. Before the same the other side! One step at a time, eh?

Will update with pictures.

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  • 2 weeks later...

More progress achieved:

This is the offside rear inner arch I fixed last time. The edge of the boot floor, and lower 3 inch of the inner arch welded in.


796EA455-79ED-406C-9F51-80F358E9BA98.thumb.jpeg.f1724587e823fc6e33820a66c4f5a6a4.jpeg

Next up was the top of the arch, this is where the factory roll cage! and seat belts mount, so was repaired with thicker steel and seam welded both sides.

2B8CAD5D-61AE-4CB4-8DF3-4D011D00F144.thumb.jpeg.08718950649144555ded4643827de5c8.jpegB14E3191-C445-428C-BF54-B70CA3FD6856.thumb.jpeg.a1c012fe1d531e4321826f9af0b7111f.jpeg633A7BBA-D932-4A13-BD69-5A97A1E837BC.thumb.jpeg.896fee7b99ee095c4058cc7d259dadb2.jpeg
AC79AC0A-A1BC-42B2-8BCD-010E600E997F.thumb.jpeg.f3dda7f84e599fbc2f41c2ba046f4bdf.jpeg

This work completes the inner arch tub, so next it’s a look at wheel arch.

 

 

2FDAB327-D4F2-4288-8FCE-F6F26770DB9D.jpeg

FBBA957B-86A8-4E32-8AD3-5D0688C37400.jpeg

32B401AA-9695-47BF-ADB8-486ACCFB7236.jpeg

368C7451-A93F-44C5-B4DB-5A3B6D113C3F.jpeg

CE29BABA-5FE6-438C-9D87-D1CCA0FCC534.jpeg

9208FC30-0FC0-4435-89E3-386B69E04458.jpeg

67A7BD90-A754-42B9-957F-205120F6F5B3.jpeg

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Wheelarch diagnosis. Fucked036B8F1D-81BF-4816-B7A5-C29220F85CCF.thumb.jpeg.6de7a9e0d5ba92056ec1f0443127fca2.jpeg

6F888C2F-1EA5-477A-832E-055E2DCBBBF6.thumb.jpeg.3dab4867a27a440a3b1f1acbd681369a.jpegThis repair would be the right shape if the car was made from Lego blocks.

3F103E93-2A7C-4493-9811-1BB5055BAC94.thumb.jpeg.5f4323d2f60795ff5fdbde33e8dd22f5.jpeg

Not too sure you could accuse this of being either a repair, or welding.

E3430FD6-0C34-4B4A-9245-C5C3AC7AD251.thumb.jpeg.528af6199aed682df32fc5e55f8f5c51.jpegnice.

DA6D359F-A542-4189-8B2B-E364E93CB365.thumb.jpeg.d6e1e0202270a906de7913f2e4cf422f.jpegobviously welded over rust and some of the canal silt elsewhere in this Japanese Range Rover.

If to stick your head in the wheelarch now and look forward, yhis is what you now see...

4F9A2A21-3062-4DA3-9125-1B7D686F53F3.thumb.jpeg.58d3b533521adb0a93079c4bef6b2130.jpegAll the way through to the dash!

More welding to come,..

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  • 2 weeks later...

More progress, on the offside rear arch. I’ve rebuilt the inside parts of the panel behind the rear bumper, and also repaired the outer piece.AAD9CA86-C7D0-4087-9702-45188204E09B.thumb.jpeg.edc2853b0478a02d0d3e5b4473ea17ef.jpeg


B2DB7B5A-3EF8-4388-A1D5-8642BD29A020.thumb.jpeg.159b5ca35e309ae3a789196125836148.jpeg
The repaired outer piece is clamped on above.

Before this can be welded the inner arch had to be rebuilt.

40DE92CD-08F2-43F3-B2AE-61C9B24649FC.thumb.jpeg.23c1f2f41c59d2049705023cc91156d3.jpegthere’s all manner of curved bits in here, as the body shape fits around the fuel tank pipes etc. All this I sort of made free hand, as there was little of use / original cut out to template from. 
 

8FBAFA5A-1A23-4CF5-A235-9AA358904DEB.thumb.jpeg.18cb9128fa3326575d1c2c36292c4306.jpegthere’s one small bit here to finish at the rear edge, and then the outer panels can be repaired, and I can call this side arch done.

The peach paint is some retro rust primer from Hammerite, painted up the inner arch looks like this. 
A44980E9-FE38-4A8A-8241-D8CF1CCDE358.thumb.jpeg.f93e0a2cc177389d25cea290ea616fa6.jpegI must remember to take more pics as I keep getting wrapped up on the job and forgetting! will trim back the return edge of the inner arch, as it’s too wide, I remade it with a band of steel and it’s about twice as wide as it should be! 
 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Wheelarch update.

D578BA04-F790-4F36-A039-913C4994BB15.thumb.jpeg.b211aa85563d8df15ccbde126443bc6a.jpeg
CBDF1323-E305-4DC8-BFAE-634D279536A5.thumb.jpeg.b202eb5c8080506f6f5145bb6395230c.jpegThese arches actually have a plastic cover over them. When removed, this was the initial scene.

B4059BB8-AB1F-4961-810C-979D6EB37569.thumb.jpeg.977d015f4672edd982e1d7b5ea6a32b2.jpegwith paint and loose flakes off, the arch looks slightly better. I begin repairs at the very bottom, careful to shape inner panels correctly to go round the fuel filler neck.

ABEF12B4-DC4B-43AA-80A6-D279E5FA08CE.thumb.jpeg.4ce265bc6a24642985cc02ebbcfe57df.jpegthe inner arch with about 90 percent of it repaired. I welded in a band as an arch lip, using the original profile as a template. Then joined my new band to the inner arch panels with pieces as necessary. Most of this I butt welded to keep the shapes. If you zoom in on the pics you’ll see the scars from this.DBA4614A-97B7-4638-9FA7-53448E741E0E.thumb.jpeg.cda05ffad140b2dd91247af7742b0b0f.jpegwith the inner arch repaired, I repaired and remade some sections of the outer piece, that sits below the bumper.

479C9E00-11FF-487D-90D8-AD2D1D14B0CC.thumb.jpeg.b62e1530ea010459461aee68f9355c00.jpegThe remade arch lip is too wide, but will be trimmed back later. I will use it to patch up the outer arch first.

B47369F5-D021-4F96-BFC6-AE691347E435.thumb.jpeg.4de4dcbaa83781b5f0126faa16598562.jpegthe lower bit inside, repaired and primed up. I had made and fitted the closing panel for the bottom of the inner arch here too.533A0135-BEF9-44C7-A7A9-5119ECDFE4E6.thumb.jpeg.cc9fefb39970b72c9307630732cd5e01.jpegready for outer arch fabrication!

DE6CE26D-CA97-4AC8-AD3C-27B8FEDA9D2D.thumb.jpeg.bb3be09e24356f183526ac7c46b1d1d6.jpeg

2D7310ED-3753-4288-ACEF-045F602FA4B2.thumb.jpeg.5f7f1841749050f27fbb5e3e94dc0fbe.jpeg1D9551BB-7C57-4287-943C-050CD68B2318.thumb.jpeg.6433e679237890f0a393d19395228c56.jpegdidn’t stop to take too many pictures, as once I got cracking I got a bit absorbed.

i basic ally built the arch up from several bits of steel.  I used the repaired inner as a former, and tacked it together on the car. 
 

Even though it’ll be covered up with trims, I’d like it 98 percent right under it all. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Still going on the crispy wonder.

7E24D49C-FF84-4F46-9AFC-DD23D9E9C68D.thumb.jpeg.4f4598e2b22e99bd22ecf8463434c2fc.jpegpart way through welding my patchwork outer arch on.

Where there is no weld in the pic here, basically needed to be cut out. This was all done in small sections to avoid distortion.

B2BDEE59-2648-4C0A-B165-ADF22D6853C1.thumb.jpeg.7bf0a45d6d5fb5ab028ff7ab1179048f.jpegtacked and ground back, These tacks were filled in to create a seam weld.

The black dust is a guide coat, I was checking the levels.

B7617E13-0519-4276-9DA4-EF725010D46B.thumb.jpeg.dc2b7f8562ccccdd028e17fe6c06df8c.jpegThe lower bit welded on, with a skim of p40 across the welds. This should reduce the amount of filler later.

91C7103A-8E2F-4D7B-82CE-88E40E3D0C85.thumb.jpeg.c8c5e37a43a2eebe54f57492f16d3dcd.jpegarch welded and skimmed with p40.
DDF06CB9-DFCC-475A-9D23-FF03E18959E9.thumb.jpeg.489ada75d225f4dba606a1fb47c3a7fe.jpegInside view, there’s a nice gap between inner and outer arch here, so I can get some wax in later.

6D939333-6B29-4DD6-8D49-C30B64CDEF11.thumb.jpeg.350cdb4b385c6f09f44ef03f3d020151.jpeg
 

F898459F-1942-4883-8B3D-A823F8A87630.thumb.jpeg.2ebd180426ec80b77566260cf450abaf.jpegfiller time. Hadn’t used filler for about three years! Took ages to set in the cold.

20DCCE99-D5BF-4BF6-826E-28B6C3F5496D.thumb.jpeg.bcbcd6075d14132b6d2e1d211ad2fb39.jpeg
then started on the other side.50232888-31E7-4C35-A734-D76059DAD6AE.thumb.jpeg.891c6aec8951bfbb59a1b81c080b0d78.jpegpassenger side arch looks better than the other. It’s a very low bar, granted.

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 Couple of other bits done too.

Few bits and bobs cleaned up and primed. 
Some rust treated with the awesome hydrate 80 stuff from bilt hamber.

also refitted the hardcore tow bar. Which weighs at least 12 tons.

68FDF5BF-C635-4E31-BE54-F6EF99C9FB5B.thumb.jpeg.d69e4cd5768e218b5e85a6cf70497405.jpeg

D5D1BD08-BD24-4020-A6B7-41CA1D25A800.thumb.jpeg.dc43c1e47d3d0bbfbf8b88cf6de9a6ef.jpegActually refitted parts! And broke out the filler and sander. Progress in the air.

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  • rickvw72 changed the title to Daihatsu Fourtrak - At least the glass isn’t rusty
  • 2 months later...

Quick update.

Struggling with pics of late, as my phone battery is knackered, so cuts off if you use it as a camera!

But progress is being made.

8C87F72B-F732-433B-9A5C-B47EC79C262A.thumb.jpeg.8439716d33cf28fb626c68d56829741a.jpegDirty, deceased and not very structural. This was taken after I ground the worst flaky stuff off!625FB78C-0FD2-4434-86CB-EF9274853FE2.thumb.jpeg.50ad3c4eb091a9be054dbe0f7f4cab77.jpegE61CFDAB-BC87-4F8F-841E-DE11375D0A55.thumb.jpeg.2c14ea01665c7dc8f7f1f23ac2a7268c.jpeg

Of course, all of the panelwork under the bumper was missing. Can it technically be rotten, if it’s fell off?3311C549-C0EA-4D4A-A97D-F85AE19D953D.thumb.jpeg.0c5437e5e4db9cd6e5db25a89454ad0a.jpegWith the inner made up and welded on, I made up this panel above, and zapped it on.

A0817FB7-8AE0-47F8-A67F-01FA029D727C.thumb.jpeg.12d715a13c1864a98a34d24ccd9434a7.jpegTo celebrate more metal going in, I removed some more from the wheelarch.

6FADD3E9-C528-46C1-9ADF-358D49DE91E4.thumb.jpeg.ede563a257089415bfc45572fc03265d.jpegSince this pic, I’ve repaired the inner arch, primed it and made up a outer arch panel, using the inner as a former again.

No pics as phone battery went south. 
 
Do have new battery coming for phone monday though, so next week should generate more pics.

(unless I kill the iPhone during surgery. Should be similar to welding up a rotter though? )

Part way through this side I bought a bad ass MiG, so loving the welding at the minute!

DB82F2F4-5981-4862-90E5-B22FBC09FABF.thumb.jpeg.19dc18fd545b16e1b3ac188411faafcb.jpegCracking Murex MiG, from I beleive 1987. My new favourite toy.

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I can’t understand why these aren’t more popular? I’ve not been in one since I was a child but on first look, they seem to be just like a Defender 90 but much nicer. You’ll pay ridiculous sums of money for even a knackered Defender but these are comparative bargains. Am I missing something?

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I'd say leafers are a bit too agricultural compared even to a 90. They also have a turning circle of rather a lot.

The Independents are good - for proper off-roading, they're a little short of axle articulation and ground clearance but they can be modified to good effect. Really, the only big downside is the rot - as this thread neatly demonstrates! Still a good number of them in use in rural Wales.

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Prices seem to be rising on them, I paid £400 for this, 4 years or so ago. It was mot’d on arrival too, although it arrived on a trailer with a popped brake pipe. Welded up and re motd I thought it was worth a grand when I bought it, there’s several now 4 grand plus for sale.

They live in the shadow of the defender, like other Far East off-roaders, and a lot of 4x4 types appear to only appreciate Land Rover only.

Mines got 5 link rear suspension, LSD, twin wishbones at the front, heated electric mirrors, windows the works, all still working at 19years old. I personally think there better than a defender in every way, but it’s realistically more modern than the 40s designed Land Rover, which was originally designed to be a type of powered wheelbarrow.

I had a 3.1 Trooper before this, and that was great too. The heavy Japanese 4x4 of this era are very capable. The Fourtrak is a hard bastard though. There’s a few farm truck ones I know of, the treatment they get, mixed with the state their in, no vehicle could cope with.

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5 hours ago, Ian_Fearn said:

I can’t understand why these aren’t more popular? I’ve not been in one since I was a child but on first look, they seem to be just like a Defender 90 but much nicer. You’ll pay ridiculous sums of money for even a knackered Defender but these are comparative bargains. Am I missing something?

They rust for sport; good solid workhorses though.

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Finished the passenger arch of this eve, road testing my new 3 phase welder.0751E679-EDC6-475C-8A3C-1ABD4FBEC947.thumb.jpeg.676d92d5d010d4090ef14c11a16d6991.jpegtacked on my home made arch panel first.

EB4A535E-6E96-4A0B-980A-8F85891C33CD.thumb.jpeg.3d063665af050edc089523a2883db90d.jpegNew welder is on it. Much awesomeness. My first time out with 0.6mm wire too.

A1750B6A-0D4C-49D4-8925-5CB4C6AC4307.thumb.jpeg.5b02283dd5cc956031a3d48b6beffd9e.jpegFully seam welded, and the other holes filled.

D8B7D255-AFD3-4900-BBDE-93521E3BC77B.thumb.jpeg.b7e7b4316fd93ecda5b71bb46ac91712.jpegwelds ground back. Grinding stone to start, flappy disc to finish.

B48AA1C1-E782-418B-96F4-C7DC389E3504.thumb.jpeg.38869d06cc37f19458cb41eeb07494fe.jpegCoat of fibre glass filler to be a foundation for filler.

EF469E44-8728-426C-B90E-F35694A8435D.thumb.jpeg.286f0fb2f39c56e6678f3b8d04cb5883.jpegFiller work near finished on the other arch. Magnets stick all over, as the filler is thinner than it looks, which is cool.

A fourtrack with metal wheelarches! There’s a rare thing.

Perversely, none of this work is seen. The plastic arches cover the metal arches, like this...

BD160FE2-5A3B-4E9B-A5D1-599F7A6620E5.thumb.jpeg.21db7873db3019ef24e19a79dd5b1172.jpeg

Bits at the bottom rear covered by the bumpers too.

None the less, this is what I started with as wheelarches 

13CDEE13-DAC4-4B9D-A266-CFF4489EDD67.thumb.jpeg.fa957868c8497279dcb4879c995b7315.jpeg

C06A3000-A7F8-4D7A-8E01-A6213D74520F.thumb.jpeg.fa1663afa7e98d8b796c9300a72c50d7.jpegNice!

There’s now a bit of inner arch repair finishing needed, and I’m on to rebuilding the floors under the back seat. There’s a large chunk of this missing one side, and the other side don’t really look very attached. Then the box section sills bodged on are coming off, as the inner sills are ruined.

Should go a bit faster too, as the bits will be easier to make up than inner and outer arch sections.

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  • rickvw72 changed the title to Daihatsu Fourtrak - Wheelarches of steel

Phenomenal work.

Here's a random question. I know welding an existing crossmember is frowned upon by Mr MOT (not that it matters if hidden) but what's the situation with a fabricating a new one from scratch?  I only ask as I've considered doing that myself.

The rear crossmember looks excellent btw.

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Can’t see any issues with crossmember welding, so long as it was strong. It’s no different to welding a section into a chassis really. 
For the Fourtrak, it only holds the anti tramp arms, and supports handbrake cables, exhaust hangers and a couple of fuel pipes. 

Interesting rear steer effect when it snaps though! 

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Bit more done today, I really, really love my new welder. A bit of an investment but so worth it!

F7863293-C654-40C9-AB3B-43B77B1CBD28.thumb.jpeg.cc9413eb0a090abc18aebd810aa4f5f4.jpegPlug welded the arch return edge, to my remade inner arch lip. 
Finished the rear under bumper area too.

F515A652-F604-4D1E-A697-BE43DA712F57.thumb.jpeg.f18cc1a3c789663bb66358b874a249a3.jpegKnocked back last weeks P40 smear, and lobbed some clag on.

B498A9CD-908B-4217-986A-45FED9D58961.thumb.jpeg.075ba44724c62f171d4de65db6bbbe45.jpeg

FE214A84-6352-41DD-9C2E-129C7973D4AD.thumb.jpeg.e10fdd9beb8e0ab72d89094883045664.jpegFingers crossed this side needs a bit less, this side wasn’t as badly crumbled.

This was hard work, so I thought I’d have a sit inside, enjoy the opulence.

3B078052-D3E2-40B4-A924-83DC93E5815A.thumb.jpeg.64a11a7c37322aec4f1a4be24bd40cad.jpeg
opulence fail.

FC38CD88-AEEE-49DC-8B3F-B9F690FEA3F7.thumb.jpeg.8a10c11c6369302f958980aec19da54a.jpegfloor under seat total fail.

Welder work out to continue then!

Really happy with how the repaired arch’s have come out. 


The view from inside

BE55F40A-3F9C-473D-9396-EE00F613A6E8.thumb.jpeg.28a7952190966f74fdec7adb5c7791c2.jpegThere’s a nice gap between the inner and outer arch, this will be most useful to inject some wax into later.

Lovely day to, took the Mk2 to the unit today. A 16 mile, all back roads through countryside, commute.

DDC2E84A-8F1D-4AD4-BA68-F1D0651E64FE.thumb.jpeg.ae9b928d16f7fac5173ee25c641686f4.jpeg

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More welding occured on planet Fourtrak today.

F01CD20A-65F4-4F28-BC05-E26231278492.thumb.jpeg.ad235c03d5db10dcaaebd8ca04f7f1ac.jpegThis is inside the rear inner arch, passenger side.

2A85B571-214D-46EE-91FD-FAC7C901288E.thumb.jpeg.a73ed67a382a23d4f50bd59b4781d020.jpegAlso in here is the middle body mount, and the boot floor edge. Right in the miflddle you can see one of the boot floor strentheners.

533D3139-74D3-4C08-BAFD-EA685EC7562E.thumb.jpeg.b902a4713db879aa590ca0ea8c860358.jpegThis is the rear body mount, behind the strengthening panel that is a touch crumbly.

C9EA6F60-22FA-49CA-AC20-0E0D82FE9D77.thumb.jpeg.517a9026eadc1bab2ced8faa9f016709.jpegwizzed out with the noisy spanner.

Deconstructing the rotten old shite, various patches and some ultra flammable sealer took over an hour.

0C4D55F8-0043-4C25-87F7-A0B96C47704F.thumb.jpeg.6c36699ed7fbc930b3f3e649dddcfc7f.jpegChopped out, you can see the body mount. This was repaired, primed and welded up.

Then it was on to the arch lip, and also the boot floor edge. 
 

2BB2CE33-3DC8-46DC-A7F1-1A3ACC6389CD.thumb.jpeg.a9105fbd359b7df59eddc9c99064191a.jpegLooking better!

0278190A-C74D-437E-BDE2-B8FA811C079C.thumb.jpeg.fbedc7cea644bbe58f301605bd9e0df7.jpegWelded it from inside. 

Nice to not have blobs dropping in your ears! 
 

Did tidy up and prime these bits too.

Next time it’s onto the drivers side floor and under seat bit! Theoretically the tank, fuel pipes, rear suspension etc could be put on and it would be drivable.

Unfortunately im too sadistic for that, so stay tuned! 

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  • rickvw72 changed the title to Daihatsu Fourtrak - More welding than the Bismarck

Moved on to the under rear seat area this weekend.

There’s not much to work from on the drivers side.

5A3D1116-E4B1-452C-B6E3-BB8FB0348ACD.thumb.jpeg.8c9768f882901091d2c85b57097f829d.jpeghow it looked when I stripped it down.

DA33AF33-0AA6-4C92-A9C2-0684AE6A66C3.thumb.jpeg.0dfbb70e98db15213c4f0110b053f130.jpegWith some of the several hundred patches cut out

282A5CCE-836E-4A29-BFE8-F974DE8B4815.thumb.jpeg.fecac49f307b51d17fd87348116949c2.jpegLooking in from the boot door.

Several areas tie together here. Boot floor to inner arch, rear footwell area, rear seat supports, and also there’s a a large crossmember that holds on the body to the chassis. (You can see the body mount bolt in picture 2)

For rigity this all needs tying together.

A5065561-F59C-49AE-86C4-311DB10E05CB.thumb.jpeg.5ca6fdc9d9ed330e8d8ed7ff04b70f4e.jpegmade a repair section for the rear bulkhead and inner rear arch.

Flipped over and welded it in

C7F8383F-2148-44C4-A1BE-9EF17185B510.thumb.jpeg.ccaf18ac5e146ad8cb54e81b240ab18d.jpegFew small sections added to fill gaps too

C263C022-ECF2-463B-88A5-63F1B73E571A.thumb.jpeg.b106314a33165913ccdd7362527f1220.jpegSeveral more miles of mig weld wire was sacrificed 

0D7D9983-7E1D-4C37-8FE1-66943AC3D4A4.thumb.jpeg.a2051c7c462b1a8df00b1e1dc2af173b.jpegView from outside, scorched some of my primer from before.

Good penetration though round the body mount in centre. I’ll seam weld this this side too when I take the wheel back off.

036911B3-7B79-4ECC-883C-BF769C80492E.thumb.jpeg.7a0d8733f88552edaf4e1529d4379a3e.jpeg

Quick grind back and zinc prime the new bits.

Next time round I’ll finish this side arch area off, and further tidy these welds. Also tidy up and seam weld to the rear body mounts.

Otherside is slightly less ruined than this, so fingers crossed it’ll be a bit easier. 
 

Ordered new sills for it too, so the box section ones will soon be history.CA2E2BAE-127E-4E45-AA16-D9FF37C9F373.thumb.jpeg.fee24772f81432fa57e8fd9c9dc9858a.jpegnice!

Old shot of this side when I took the plastic arches off originally 

1631DAA1-10AC-4DAC-8B18-3E2500929A9D.thumb.jpeg.f61281508e819676d0d505100f682619.jpegThink I can improve on that.

Cheers for looking.

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  • Similar Content

    • By sharley17194
      Ive been waiting to run a project thread, but as it seems i do so many projects at once picking one is a night mare, plus my plans change faster than the wind, i thought id create a random project thread and id just update it with whatever i was working on at the time. The current list of candidates is as follows....
       
       
      Vanden Plas 1300 - parked
      1993 Mini SPI - finish stripping engine for MG 1300
      MGF 75th Edition - NEW - SCRAPPED
      Rover 75 - SCRAPPED
      Ausitn 1300 GT - SOLD
      Purple Morris 1100 - NEXT! - SOLD
      Blue MG 1300 - scrapped
      Red 1985 mini - engine rebuilt
      Green 1971 mini - winter hibernation 
      White MG 1300 repaint and rebuild
      Blue mk1 Ausitn 1100 welding and paint
      Blue mk1 wolesley - decide on future
      Baby Blue mk2 morris 1300 - SCRAPPED
      Clubman estate - a one day project - SOLD
      Magenta kit car x3 ....1 one road, one painted red, one waiting to be scrapped - 1 scrapped, 1 sold
      White Vanden Plas 1300 - SCRAPPED
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      Golf GTE - SOLD
      Mg 1100 - 1963 - With little garage classics being rebuilt.
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    • By davidfowler2000
      Edit: This is longer than initially anticipated.
      As some will have noticed, Mr cms206 of this parish reckons the death knell for the SVM is close with his recent purchase of a Saab. Going with the fact I still have a 100% Volvo fleet, as does Mr rml2345 of this parish I would personally say it's just diversification. Especially considering the amount of non Volvos cms206 has had these days.
      This aforementioned diversification continues a pace. Although the paperwork still needs to be done, I have some non Volvo incoming.

      Background:
      My aunt got the above pictured 205 back in about 2002 and ran it for about 3 years. By her accounts she put it in the lockup, got a Nissan Almera for whatever reason and basically put the 205 in to the long term deal with pile. It was initially SORN on the blue log book. Back when there was a theft of blue V5s at Swansea and everyone in the country got sent one of the new red ones, one never arrived for the 205 and after that it was properly forgetten about. Well she did. I've been keeping it in my mind every day since then. During a discussion over my birthday dinner a few weeks ago, she mentioned that she was going to pay the gardener she gets in to trim the trees to break in to the lockup because the padlock had rusted solid and she was desperate to use the space in the lockup. I said I'd do it free if I could assess the car. If it was completely fucked, it would have to get dragged out and put on a truck to go to the scrap heap. If I could get it moving, I would make it a project.
      Next day - 18th January:


      Time to break open the padlock then. Big screwdriver through the hasp and burst it within 3 seconds. Now to have a look at the car. It's dirty, 3 tyres are flat, one of them creased and the 4th is still at about 10psi. After FIFTEEN YEARS! A gentle rock confirms suspicions that all the wheels are locked so time to get all the wheels off and set about the brakes with a big swing press.
      The back wheels moved eventually. Judicious use the big hammer, two wheel bolts reinserted and a breaker bar as a lever got the back wheels turning. While the wheels were off I thought I'd see if they held air.
        
      All 4 tyres held 35psi. None of them appear to be cracked and the rubber is still "soft" to the scrape of a finger nail. Lack of sunlight attacking them I suppose but it'll get 4 new ones if it becomes roadworthy.
      After doing the back wheels, the front wheels quickly proved they could be a major problem. I took the calipers, pads and discs completely off the car and even with 2 wheel studs inserted and using the 3/4 drive breaker bar with an extra foot of length over the 1/2 bar, neither wheel / shaft would turn. So either the bearings had seized, the CV joints in the driveshafts had seized or something very sinister was happening inside the gearbox. By this time it was getting dark and cold so time to put it all away for another day.
      Another day - 24th January:
      Various discussions were had on the Scotoshite WhatsApp chat and the end result being Mr 320Touring of this parish agreed to come round for a shufty. He was wanting to check up on another car in a lockup only a mile or so away so it was a no brainer.
      As before, front wheels off, bar on the wheel bolts... nothing. What to do next? We need to use the car's own power to try to free off whatever is seized on the front wheels but the car is nose in to the lockup so we can't get jump leads to it. We need to drag it out but we don't have a tow rope however we manage to find what appears to be a self tightening dog collar / leash in the car and decide to cue MAXIMUM SKETCHINESS!!!

      A gentle tug from the ML of doom proved the NSF wheel is tight but not seized however the OSF is not moving. Fuck it... drag it while pushing from the front. If we need to shove it back in there's an old tyre in a pile of rubbish waiting to get uplifted by the council that can act as a cushion and the ML will do the job no bother. We also took the front brake discs off to minimise any drag from those.

      We decided to drag it out just enough to get my jump leads on to the battery. We had already taken the battery out to try it on the leads outside the car. Surprise surprise* it was so dead it had gone open circuit so there was absolutely no magic pixies flowing in to it. Luckily I had an old battery from the 740 that was the same size so that was obtained, inserted and then put to work. Time to leave it to charge for a wee bit.

      Now that we've got some electricity going from the ML in to the 205 it's time to see what will happen. Thanks to Mr Touring for providing the videos...
       
       
       
       
      At one point we were vexed by the daft French screw on battery terminals
      We were getting a bit desperate by this point. We used quite a lot of "easy start" and the amount of electricity was causing problems.
      We took a break at this point for 10 mins or so. Mainly to make sure we didn't get too frustrated but also to make sure the maximum possible amount of electricity was in the actual battery so that the leads were just there as a boost. This was clearly a good idea...
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      YAY! MUCH ELATION! Oh and that old diesel stinks. Time to get the leads off, move the ML and let the 205 tick over for a few minutes to let the engine settle. Next we found out why the front wheels were not for turning...
      So yeah. All the CV Joints were completely solid. But anyways it was mission accomplished for the day. We got it moving and a general once over suggests that it should be easily salvageable therefore if auntie wants the space in the lockup, it's going to have to go somewhere. Time to put it back in and wrap up for the day.

      Thanks to 320 Touring in assistance. The list of work is substantial but not insurmountable. It needs - a battery, front discs, front pads, front calipers, front lower arms, front driveshafts, possibly bearings, rear drums, rear shoes, rear fitting kit, probably handbrake cables, flexi hoses all round, 4 new tyres, 3 of the 4 doors don't work properly, a water leak at the water pump but that can get done with a new cam belt, probably a thermostat, engine oil, filters all round, fresh fuel, a good clean, handbrake light, oil pressure light and a rear screenwash leak inside the tailgate.
      Oh and a sidelight bulb...

      Interim time:
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      Another bit of tinkering - 4th February
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      ---ENDS---

    • By Fumbler
      To mark the genesis of my fleet project thread I here present my new car: a 1997 Nissan Micra Shape-


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    • By dome
      This evening I venture forth into hitherto unknown lands (Kirkintilloch) to collect my latest acquisition.

      Which, naturally, has issues.

      I have purchased my first line of defence.



      Which appears to have antigravity properties

      More will follow this evening...
    • By 320touring
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      My lift arrives at 8.
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