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Tim's Fleet - Volvo 740 settles in nicely.


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1 hour ago, MondeoBlues said:

I've never seen it without its roof rack. Kind of looks bald. 

Much better fuel economy though I imagine, what with the weight loss and better aerodynamics. 

 

It was purely an 'I wonder if I can turn the knob without the key...' moment. So I tried and failed a few times then tried and the first one came off. Anyway yes it will help with noise and fuel, and the rack will be useful I'm sure. It actually looks good with it on, I think! I'm still in the phase of trying things out though.

Like the headlight washers. They work, they just need blades! But I don't understand where the little hoses are meant to go!

Then at some point I'll take the binnacle off and prod all the solder joints. I'm told that they probably need sanding off and re-soldering and that the window switch needs hosing down with contact cleaner. We'll see, eventually.

I'm still living the dream!

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On 1/8/2021 at 12:46 AM, captain_70s said:

One thing to bear in mind with a lot of the more expensive examples listed is that they've been for sale for months if not years.

A nice 700/900 estate is probably around £900-1500 with the best in the £2-3k range, saloons a few hundred less. While they days of picking a decent example up for £300-600 with ease are over they're still fairly cheap.

For reference, I put mine up for £3000 last year as I felt it was a bit too nice to use on a regular basis, also, the wife was ashamed to be seen in it. Much to my surprise my phone never stopped and it sold for full asking price within a week or two. As a 2.3 turbo manual with 92k it was probably quite desirable, none the less prices in general are on the rise for sure.

Re the flametrap, they're supposedly harder on the turbo models- Lots of *experts on the Volvo forum were talking about removing the intake manifold leading to some procrastination on my part. In the end it was needless, a 15 minute job. Just about everything on these cars is simple by modern standards, they're a joy to spanner on. IIRC the timing belt on mine took me two hours on a hung over Saturday morning.

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On 1/13/2021 at 8:26 PM, Tim_E said:

It was purely an 'I wonder if I can turn the knob without the key...' moment. So I tried and failed a few times then tried and the first one came off. Anyway yes it will help with noise and fuel, and the rack will be useful I'm sure. It actually looks good with it on, I think! I'm still in the phase of trying things out though.

Like the headlight washers. They work, they just need blades! But I don't understand where the little hoses are meant to go!

Then at some point I'll take the binnacle off and prod all the solder joints. I'm told that they probably need sanding off and re-soldering and that the window switch needs hosing down with contact cleaner. We'll see, eventually.

I'm still living the dream!

Somebody will be along shortly to tell you for sure but I'm going to guess that the hoses attach to a jet on the headlight washer blade.

 

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1 hour ago, spartacus said:

Somebody will be along shortly to tell you for sure but I'm going to guess that the hoses attach to a jet on the headlight washer blade.

 

Correct

image.thumb.jpeg.de00d4b4ab5ea199fd0714cba2a1fb6a.jpeg

I think I need to clean the lichen off the 740, I was going to photograph the 940 but the arms are slightly different and hide the hoses.

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2 hours ago, Shite Ron said:

Correct

image.thumb.jpeg.de00d4b4ab5ea199fd0714cba2a1fb6a.jpeg

I think I need to clean the lichen off the 740, I was going to photograph the 940 but the arms are slightly different and hide the hoses.

I'll have another look but there no attachment on the arm, and my blades are also MIA so is there a hose attachment on the actual OEM blade? The old and knackered blade that came with the car didn't seem to have an attachment, maybe it was the incorrect blade?

Edit: Actually now I've decoded what's going on here the attachment does appear to on the arm... Is that right? I will have to go and look at mine again!

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16 hours ago, Shirley Knott said:

 

Re the flametrap, they're supposedly harder on the turbo models- Lots of *experts on the Volvo forum were talking about removing the intake manifold leading to some procrastination on my part. In the end it was needless, a 15 minute job. Just about everything on these cars is simple by modern standards, they're a joy to spanner on. IIRC the timing belt on mine took me two hours on a hung over Saturday morning.

I'm starting to enjoy working on this car, possibly for the first time ever!

I'm definitely someone who would like to be able to spanner but despite trying so far I'm terrible, I'm just learning all this things I don't know.

But I like this car. After speaking to someone on Volvo (who is very patientely talking me through everything) the job seems doable, even for me! 

I've even ordered a torque wrench and some ½ inch drive sockets! Not for the pcv but for another job.

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35 minutes ago, Tim_E said:

I'll have another look but there no attachment on the arm, and my blades are also MIA so is there a hose attachment on the actual OEM blade? The old and knackered blade that came with the car didn't seem to have an attachment, maybe it was the incorrect blade?

Edit: Actually now I've decoded what's going on here the attachment does appear to on the arm... Is that right? I will have to go and look at mine again!

The blade and nozzle go onto the end of the arm. Mine got attacked by a gate a few years ago so the other side looks like this:

image.thumb.jpeg.d933710f21f899e9b058984ea1a1ef03.jpeg

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4 hours ago, Shite Ron said:

The blade and nozzle go onto the end of the arm. Mine got attacked by a gate a few years ago so the other side looks like this:

image.thumb.jpeg.d933710f21f899e9b058984ea1a1ef03.jpeg

Yes mine look more like this! But without any kind of end or attachment!

I think i need some spare parts then.

On the other hand i have discovered that i have a vacuum in my crankcase ventilation, so i guess that means it's not completely blocked.

So I'll still clean it all out but i won't rush, I'll wait until i have a good day.

I think I'll be de-greasing the engine to spot any oil leaks, I have a new rocker seal anyway for when I re-tighten the head bolts.

I had a poke behind the dash. Definitely one bulb was knackered so I moved one so I can see the rev counter (the only way I can guage my speed into I properly resolder the speedo). I think the PCB where the engine temperature guage bulb is might be a bit off-kilter.

All things to improve one day!

I've been told that squirting contact cleaner into the window switch might make it work again...

 

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Improvement to night time drivability has happened.

Next to try and figure out the right hand light. Getting a working bulb will be a start but I think I need to look at the fitting. The bulb for the rev counter was in the very right most place before and there's something wrong with the socket or the PCB.

20210115_192010.jpg

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2 hours ago, Tim_E said:

I've been told that squirting contact cleaner into the window switch might make it work again...

If you're careful and patient, the individual switches can be dismantled, cleaned and reassembled, thus restoring their operation :)

Also, bending the dashboard illumination bulb holder's contacts slightly so that they bear down harder on the relevant areas of the PCB works wonders, as does cleaning said areas of the PCB.

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13 hours ago, Shep Shepherd said:

If you're careful and patient, the individual switches can be dismantled, cleaned and reassembled, thus restoring their operation :)

Also, bending the dashboard illumination bulb holder's contacts slightly so that they bear down harder on the relevant areas of the PCB works wonders, as does cleaning said areas of the PCB.

I didn't get a photo but the PCB is loose around the bulb slot. I'm sure it can be glued/wedged or whatever and the bulb made to contact. The bulb was actually really tight, I had to very carefully use pliers to get it to rotate and release.

When I come to dismantle it more and actually unclip everything I'll get some pics and have a proper look.

I aim to re-solder the bits that don't work too.

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