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Tim's Fleet - new V70


Cord Fourteener

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I thought I would chime in as being the person who sold the car to Tim. I had no issues with the car whilst I had it. It did lose some boost on the way to drop this off on Thursday. I put this down to either running it low on fuel or boost pipe to the intercooler as I had to take it off and clean it as there was some weepage. 

There was no warning lights on the car at all during the time I owned it.  I have apologised to Tim for the issues he is having.

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It’s hard to diagnose this type of stuff over internet posts, but I’d say you need some diagnostic info here.

A broken / disconnected MAF will have the thing in permanent limp mode, or slow mode or whatever.

A boost related issue would reset when you stop and restart the engine.

ive found its common that the turbos carbon up, creating too much boost. They then go like fuck for a bit and eventually overboost, and drop into limp mode. This usually resets itself when you turn it off and back on again.

Almost every remaining PD is claimed to be remapped. The reality is they clonk out mega torque off idle, even stock, and many mistakenly believed they are played with. But...

It may be remapped. There’s much difference between a rolling road tuned remap, tweaked to perfection with emissions monitored during the process full tune and a 20 quid tuning box, or a mate and laptop remap. Depends what’s been done although if it has been mapped, it’s almost the always the latter option.

This is usually done by cranking up the boost, and convincing the engine its a little colder than reality so it throws in a bit more fuel. If it was remapped it could be producing too much boost for the pressure sensor and tripping it into safe mode.

in short it could be MAF, but when they die they stay dead in my experience. If it resets with the engine off I’d say boost. Boost likely caused by stuck VNT in turbo, or dodgy map. Other potential suspects - N75 valve (controls vacuum to VNT mech on turbo) split, missing or porous vacuum pipes, stuck open egr valve, or collapsed cat in the zorst. 
 

If it’s turbo Mech stuck, Mr Muscle has fixed everyone I’ve done. You can get it in to turbo on these through the egr pipe. I’d also remove and clean inlet manifold if it’s never been done as it’ll be bogged up.

 

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6 hours ago, leanycan said:

I thought I would chime in as being the person who sold the car to Tim. I had no issues with the car whilst I had it. It did lose some boost on the way to drop this off on Thursday. I put this down to either running it low on fuel or boost pipe to the intercooler as I had to take it off and clean it as there was some weepage. 

There was no warning lights on the car at all during the time I owned it.  I have apologised to Tim for the issues he is having.

Hey, it's not for you to apologise, I think it was bad timing. Or I have some magical mystical diesel engine breaking curse. 

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3 hours ago, rickvw72 said:

It’s hard to diagnose this type of stuff over internet posts, but I’d say you need some diagnostic info here.

A broken / disconnected MAF will have the thing in permanent limp mode, or slow mode or whatever.

A boost related issue would reset when you stop and restart the engine.

ive found its common that the turbos carbon up, creating too much boost. They then go like fuck for a bit and eventually overboost, and drop into limp mode. This usually resets itself when you turn it off and back on again.

Almost every remaining PD is claimed to be remapped. The reality is they clonk out mega torque off idle, even stock, and many mistakenly believed they are played with. But...

It may be remapped. There’s much difference between a rolling road tuned remap, tweaked to perfection with emissions monitored during the process full tune and a 20 quid tuning box, or a mate and laptop remap. Depends what’s been done although if it has been mapped, it’s almost the always the latter option.

This is usually done by cranking up the boost, and convincing the engine its a little colder than reality so it throws in a bit more fuel. If it was remapped it could be producing too much boost for the pressure sensor and tripping it into safe mode.

in short it could be MAF, but when they die they stay dead in my experience. If it resets with the engine off I’d say boost. Boost likely caused by stuck VNT in turbo, or dodgy map. Other potential suspects - N75 valve (controls vacuum to VNT mech on turbo) split, missing or porous vacuum pipes, stuck open egr valve, or collapsed cat in the zorst. 
 

If it’s turbo Mech stuck, Mr Muscle has fixed everyone I’ve done. You can get it in to turbo on these through the egr pipe. I’d also remove and clean inlet manifold if it’s never been done as it’ll be bogged up.

 

Re the maf: I did suspect the maf. It was hesitating on full throttle but otherwise ok at first.  Next morning it lost power for one journey, it came back in the afternoon. 

Then I took the maf out and I sprayed intake cleaner into the sensor that afternoon, left it to dry then went out and its been in low power mode ever since. I'm wondering if I might have finished it off by spraying it?

It's definitely not a case of limp mode that can be reset by stopping and turning off then on again. 

I've lived that random limp mode attack hell before and it's not that. 

Any thoughts? It's booked in Monday for proper diagnostics, until then it's driving like an XUD n/a diesel. 

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2 minutes ago, Sunny Jim said:

Anglo-Saxon technology in the land of the Celts has often been problematic in the past. 😉

At least we all have our beaker holders. Apart from the E46, for some reason the Yamnaya decided to only have beakers when the rear seats are folded.

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  • Cord Fourteener changed the title to Tim's Fleet - People's car - Take the Power back!

My guess (and it is a guess) is MAF sensor. 406 coupe i had was slow as shit until that was changed, then it went like a scalded cat. Bought a replacement from dieselspates (i think) on ebay.  Wasn't too expensive  either. 

 

Might be worth a shout. 

Edit: these guys. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Volkswagen-TDI-Mass-Air-Flow-Meter-Sensor-0281002531-038906461B-/303387758141?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

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I think someone has already mentioned this but;

If the turbo works initially then keeps going into limp mode then it's a clogged or buggered turbo or associated mechanism. You can verify this by turning the engine off and then back on, the problem will mysteriously disappear then return as soon as the turbo start spinning up again.

If the problem is constant or intermittent but not as described about then I'd be thinking sensors. IIRC you can disconnect the sensor on the air intake (MAP?) to see if it gets any worse. They don't always take kindly to cleaning and cheapo replacements often don't work properly anyway so it is quite an expensive thing to check.

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9 hours ago, rickvw72 said:

I don’t want to insult you, but did you refit the MAF the right way round?

 

I'm not insulted, I'm the sort you need to ask if I have the keys in the ignition and fuel in when it doesn't start. 

The answer is 'I think so'. I looked at the arrow and worked out which way that means in context of the airflow...

#equivocationisthenewnorm

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8 hours ago, warch said:

If the turbo works initially then keeps going into limp mode then it's a clogged or buggered turbo or associated mechanism. You can verify this by turning the engine off and then back on, the problem will mysteriously disappear then return as soon as the turbo start spinning up again.

 

This is not the case, it started intermittently and very quickly became permanent.

Which is why from my limited understanding I thought it was maf related. 

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27 minutes ago, Tim_E said:

This is not the case, it started intermittently and very quickly became permanent.

Which is why from my limited understanding I thought it was maf related. 

That does sound quite promising. Does it make any difference if you disconnect the MAF/MAP (located on the air intake) and run it like that?

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50 minutes ago, warch said:

That does sound quite promising. Does it make any difference if you disconnect the MAF/MAP (located on the air intake) and run it like that?

Not a crumb. Is there a difference between the MAF and MAP? I know it's got a MAF but I didn't know it was mean to have a MAP as well, I thought they were different things to do essentially the same thing. 

Anyway I've unplugged the MAF and driven it and it's a positively lazy cat, no scalding is happening whether or not it's plugged in. 

As an aside, my other cars currently are a 1.2 Seat Ibiza and a 2.0 Volvo 740 so the broken Passat currently feels like it makes about the same power to weight as both of these cars currently. Haha perspective is a funny thing. 

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It does sound like a sensor. I've just realised this is the 1.9 engine, not the 2.0 mine had so there are some differences, sorry if my advice is confusing. My brother had a 1.9 Golf and his seemed to run fine with the AF/AP sensor disconnected, whereas mine immediately ran very badly without it.

I do miss the good old days when diesels were simple dependable things, not the overcomplicated concoctions of variable vane turbos and troublesome emissions control kit that blight the modern oil burner.

 

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21 minutes ago, warch said:

It does sound like a sensor. I've just realised this is the 1.9 engine, not the 2.0 mine had so there are some differences, sorry if my advice is confusing. My brother had a 1.9 Golf and his seemed to run fine with the AF/AP sensor disconnected, whereas mine immediately ran very badly without it.

I do miss the good old days when diesels were simple dependable things, not the overcomplicated concoctions of variable vane turbos and troublesome emissions control kit that blight the modern oil burner.

 

Great, and thanks. Yes they go very well these days but they are a PIA. Especially, like me, you don't ever go on a motorway. I bought this car knowing I'd ruin it, didn't think it would happen on day 5.

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I’m guessing maf or vac leak somewhere then with your symptoms.

I wouldn’t worry about the tech on these though, it’s really very simple and in my experience, very reliable. You’ll need a 80s or earlier diesel to have all mechanical pumps, no VNT etc. Then you can enjoy about 12 hp and shit loads of noise.

1.9pd is a great lump, worth getting it right. If you need a garage to help, and they can’t fix it, it’s a poor garage. Might have a MAF kicking about if you can get the number off yours I’ll have a look, but won’t be at my workshop til Saturday. 

 

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49 minutes ago, rickvw72 said:

I’m guessing maf or vac leak somewhere then with your symptoms.

I wouldn’t worry about the tech on these though, it’s really very simple and in my experience, very reliable. You’ll need a 80s or earlier diesel to have all mechanical pumps, no VNT etc. Then you can enjoy about 12 hp and shit loads of noise.

1.9pd is a great lump, worth getting it right. If you need a garage to help, and they can’t fix it, it’s a poor garage. Might have a MAF kicking about if you can get the number off yours I’ll have a look, but won’t be at my workshop til Saturday. 

 

True, about the garages, it's booked in Monday so fingers crossed. 

I'll have a look at the Maf when I get chance, I'm on kid duty now though until the weekend so my tinkering time is limited.

 

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1 minute ago, dave j said:

Looks much better with the silver wheels! I used to own one in the same colour but I lowered it and put alloys off a newer Passat on it

It's work in progress, it hailed and rained and I couldn't finish.  But I will soon. 

I much prefer it with silver steelies. 

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Progress is being made. 

A friend came round with a proper diagnostics computer and plugged it in. 

Although before that he told me I was going mad because it drives perfectly well. I told him there's definitely a problem, it's not like it was.

So he plugged it in and sure enough the Maf was producing an open circuit to ground code, and an underboost code as well as others (the airbag has not been reset from whenever it got crashed).

So we found a break in the wire to the maf plug. That may be our problem. I'll connect it up later see if it fixes the immediate issue. 

He also told me the turbo seals are probably leaking and I need to clean the inter cooler and all the intake and boost hosing and make sure it's all sealed. But that's due another day. 

First fix the wire, then get on to serving the oil and all the filters.

 

20210313_113525.jpg

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30 minutes ago, rickvw72 said:

There’s your issue!

well found. These always have oil in the intake system when they’ve done some miles. I’d leave the turbo til it blows. 
 

My PD golf always had an oily intake. I had it from 145k to 196k, and it saw full boost most days, never was an issue. 

Ok that's good to know,I won't rush! The boost hose connectors are all loose, but I guess I'll see if it feels like it's lacking in time. 

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F#$k me I got booost. 

Goes like a scalded terrier again. 

Ok there's a few leaks and it needs a service which it will get very soon. 

And there is a coolant temperature code, open circuit to battery or something. But the temperature guage works and the car goes...

Phew, anyway. I thought it was going to be a never-ending chase of sticky intake, turbo and controllers, but no. It cost me a couple of beers for my friend and a cup of tea. 

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