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Ghostly Goings On - here we go again


Ghosty

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  • Ghosty changed the title to Ghostly Goings On - bargain basement 106

Little update today, no pics as it went dark. 

Wandered out, stuck some Armor All on the plastics, and set to the interior with the vaccuum, mould remover, upholstery cleaner, and a stiff dishwashing brush. 
It's only bloody come up like new! 

I went on eBay and found a rear light for £9.50, the missing side trim for £15 new, and four(!) of the correct wheeltrims for £15. 
It needs a CV boot but they're £2.15 from J&R. 
Then it's just the driver's seat to look at, then it's in for an MOT, and possibly a V62. That has to be done by post though so could put a dent in my plans if it takes a while. 

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22 minutes ago, Ghosty said:

Little update today, no pics as it went dark. 

Wandered out, stuck some Armor All on the plastics, and set to the interior with the vaccuum, mould remover, upholstery cleaner, and a stiff dishwashing brush. 
It's only bloody come up like new! 

I went on eBay and found a rear light for £9.50, the missing side trim for £15 new, and four(!) of the correct wheeltrims for £15. 
It needs a CV boot but they're £2.15 from J&R. 
Then it's just the driver's seat to look at, then it's in for an MOT, and possibly a V62. That has to be done by post though so could put a dent in my plans if it takes a while. 

You can do a V62 at a post office that does tax, pay your £25 to them, they send the form off and you can tax straight away (even by DD), I did this (V62 in person + DD tax) with something or other once which I got no V5 with and was also disabled tax class, I was stood there a while but they managed it.

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7 hours ago, ruffgeezer said:

The cv boots are a pain to do on these unless you have access to a stretch boot tool. 

You have to pull the whole shaft and dismantle the inner joint for a proper boot. 

What he said ! 

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2 hours ago, M'coli said:

Have you sourced a replacement seat runner yet...?

Removed it and it doesn'tseem to be the issue. 

The front left bolt hole has sheared away and I think it isn't ratcheting as it isn't in level. 

I'll work out a way to secure the seat...

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Oh, also, I went to look at a £400 Cavalier. The seller described it as just needing 'some springs' for the MOT. 

Rear arches were crispy, tailgate rusty, and it was running rich and seemed to have rod knock and a misfire. After a minute or two running it was already building pressure in the expansion tank. 

It had a new battery on that apparently didn't come with it, the battery was 'on charge'. Worrying considering it apparently also had a recon alternator. 

I asked him how long he had had it and he said 'since weekend'. 

 

Yeah, didn't go for that. 

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Back to the 106. The ratchet mechanism appears to work properly, but one of the mounting bolts was moving with the seat rail fully tightened. 

The hole pictured was what was revealed when I unbolted it. 

The car is currently in Police Academy spec , unfortunately I'm not tall enough to just drive it from the back seat. 

There are aircraft grade fasteners and bits of alu plate in the garage so I'm going to make up a plate and rivet it in, then mount the seat with it. I think the reason it wouldn't ratchet is that the seat wasn't sitting on its rails properly as one corner of it was floating. 

As for the CV boot, just slap a jubilee clip on it. 

I also pulled out the arch liner as it just sort of sits in place behind other things, so I could push the dent out of the wing. I think it looks presentable enough now. 

Then it's just waiting for some odd bits and it's MOT ready. 

20210308_145343.jpg

20210308_150122.jpg

20210308_161242.jpg

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Did you recover the captive "floating" nut when you removed the seat? It's captive in that it doesn't turn but has about 5mm of "float" in each direction from the centre.

Please don't use aluminium, use steel. It'll not fail as catastrophically as aluminium does, as this is a common failure point on the 106 - I've welded up both of mine, and I'd say that welding it would be the preferred choice.

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Yeah that's going to want the rear brake shoes looking at really, no way the handbrake should be holding up the headlining too! 

If it's a 3 stud model, they have a habit of wearing the teeth off of the shoe adjusters and going slack. 

You can get an adjuster kit or if you are particularly bodgy, adjust them out and tack weld them in place. 

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1 hour ago, M'coli said:

Did you recover the captive "floating" nut when you removed the seat? It's captive in that it doesn't turn but has about 5mm of "float" in each direction from the centre.

I got a metal cuboid with two threaded holes in it and some broken bits of metal out, one of which looked like a washer, with paint on one side of it. There was something else hanging in there on a bent bit of metal that I left.

I'll have to look at the drums - yes it's 3 stud. 

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It's a 32mm socket for the rear hub nut (on the phase1 and 1.5s), swap the nuts side-to-side so that you can re-stake the flange into the notch on the stub axle.

I'd be throwing new brakeshoes at it if I was keeping it, the adhesive that keeps the friction material on the shoe gives up before they wear out, detaches from the shoe and locks the drum. Had it happen on both of the ones in my care...!

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6 minutes ago, Ghosty said:

one of which looked like a washer, with paint on one side of it.

That was the fatigue-failed bit of floor.  I've had the same failure before with a 106 seat runner.  You have to weld repair it, it's the only sensible fix.  It's also an MOT fail : Driver's seat insecure.

Theoretically a fail on no reserve handbrake travel either.  Worth doing both of these before you present it to stand a chance of passing.

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I will point out that it's my dad's idea to rivet a plate on. 'but it's aircraft grade!' he says (former RAF flight engineer).
I'm sceptical, but my idea is to MOT it and sell it on for decent money. I'm all for welding, I just can't weld and aside the tow pole, don't have a way to get it somewhere that it can be welded. 

I'm not particularly inclined to keep it as the insurance is an utterly absurd £550 for some reason.

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Welding is the best option, but it's not actually "structural": perhaps as a bodge a riveted and bonded (araldite for example) lump of aluminium might just do.

It'd at least get it a test and allow you to drive it to a tame welder, just don't bond the bodge in if you take this route as it'll be difficult to properly clean up the steel.

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Yes, I understand. Tbh I'm tempted to rivet it for the test as it costs nowt and it works in principle, and the rivet holes will make good corner points for cutting a hole for a new captive nut. The alu plate is the kind of stuff you make airliners out of so isn't going to fall apart in short order. 
I really can't afford to go mental on it. 
 

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I’d agree with M’coli, sometimes you have to do some creative things to get it a test in order to get it to a place it can get properly fixed. Case in point is me removing the rear seats on my 2CV to get it a test in order to be able to drive it to get welded...  

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1 hour ago, Mally said:

Very large thick penny washer both sides of hole should cover that. Weld underneath later as required after MOT achieved.

Spray with water to prevent carpet/seat flames.

 

Just peel the carpet back, it's a doddle on these.

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  • Ghosty changed the title to Ghostly Goings On - lude behaviour
  • Ghosty changed the title to Ghostly Goings On - here we go again

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