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1968 Austin 1100 Mk1 (Take 2) - Gone :(


SiC

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I hate to sound like a broken record, but where fuel lines are concerned marine grade hose is your friend.  A1 or ISO7840 is what you want.  It's resistant to just about everything short of direct nuclear assault and I've found it far easier to work with.  The braiding is far better so it doesn't kink anywhere as easily.  Only things I'd probably not want to use it for would be brake fluid or LHM.  The specification calls for good resistance to abrasion etc as well.

That stuff you've just fitted looks identical to what Halfords stock and which I found was on the verge of failure after only a few months on the car - and that was before we had ethanol in all pump fuels.  I'd not trust it further than I can throw it.

Marine hose is more expensive but should in a roadgoing application essentially be "fit and forget" really.  Nautilus Fuel master seems to be a pretty common type to find.

I figure the fuel system, like the brakes is an area where spending a few extra quid is worth it for peace of mind in the long run.

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17 hours ago, SiC said:

Want to drive it before I get to that point! Slightly envious that you've managed to drive yours and I haven't mine. I'm still jealous of yours and would happily sell mine for it, if you ever decide to move yours on!

I'd wager what you're doing in terms of prep is the more sensible approach.  That FTP I had could have been avoided probably, but never mind.  And interest noted!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mojo has been low and busyness has been high recently for getting on with this.

Riveted on the pipe mount I made.
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Cleaned up and painted the offside brake back plate. Also mounted the cylinder while it was off the car.
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Then mounted the back plate to the car.
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Fitted all the brake gubbins.
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Fitted brake hose and hard line. Did a slight different routing for the hard line. Bit neater I think.
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Then fitted the hard line to the brake regulator valve. You'll notice I moved to bolts on this. After 9 rivets, I gave up trying to get it fixed with them. Kept coming off every time I wobbled the plate with any force. I think the back of the subframe isn't dead clean hole. Screws right PIA to fit but much more secure.
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Finally put the subframe to hard-line hose on.
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Next up will be to get the front hoses changed (hopefully a lot less of a 'mare) and then get some fluid back into the syste. Finally clutch system and then buttoning up the rest of the car.

I hate dealing with brake systems.

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Had a bit more time yesterday to get on with this.

Firstly changed the front hoses. These are the old ones. Quick enough job that I forgot to take after pictures.
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Blowing compressed air through the old ones showed that there was significant restriction in them. However the front brakes still seem pretty stuck on and can't be turned over by hand. Hopefully the engine had enough power to free them. Worried the calipers maybe seized up.

Buttoned the back drums together
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Then pressurised the brake system to 28psi without fluid in the pump. Hissing in the back turned out to be a small leak from the rear cylinder bleed nipple. Nipping this up stopped this.
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Then refilled the system with fresh fluid and pressure bled it. Pedal seems to hold pressure and doesn't sink. Pedal seems no better than it was though

Also changed the clutch master fluid too. Didn't get all the old stuff drained out the bottom, so got dirty again pretty quickly. Might have to suck it all out and refill. That can wait for now.
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Then tried squirting grease into the ball joint nipples. Not sure what went wrong here but most of it ended up around the nipple than thru it. I removed the nipples and they seemed quite happy to let grease through.

Is there different size attachments for these things?
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With the brakes mostly done (just handbrake left) and the mechanicals nearly done (needs carb tuning), I turned to sorting the non functional door lock on the passenger side.

Took out the mechanism and had a good play. I think it's actually fine just works differently to the rears when locking. The rears stay in the up position when locked, while the fronts seem to move back to the middle. Either way it gives me a good chance to clean out this mechanism and give it a good lube up with white grease or something.
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Mechanism itself is quite a complicated affair of leavers and springs. All riveted together making it a possible nightmare to put together if opened up. I suspect these are designed to be throw away items if they fail.
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Grease squirting.... maybe the old grease has hardened slightly making it difficult for the new stuff to circulate.

Perhaps hold off until the car is running and driveable. Use may actually make the old grease a bit more squidgy, well, enough for more new stuff to actually get in there perhaps.

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6 hours ago, SiC said:

I think it's actually fine just works differently to the rears when locking. The rears stay in the up position when locked, while the fronts seem to move back to the middle.

Yes, that's just how they work!

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Yeah I realise that now

To be honest, they mechanisms need a darn good clean up and lube. Passenger side seem to work alright once cleaned.

Doing the same on the driver side as the outside lock, doesn't. Might need some bending of the mechanism potentially.

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  • 2 weeks later...

@SiC, i picked this up a few weeks ago with  a stack of other motoring books. It's no good to me and was wondering if you could make use of it?

It's a 1968 edition Pearsons Illustrated car servicing guide for morris/austin/mg1100.

Don't want anything for it. Can chuck it in the post or drop off to you.

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4 hours ago, Steve79 said:

@SiC, i picked this up a few weeks ago with  a stack of other motoring books. It's no good to me and was wondering if you could make use of it?

It's a 1968 edition Pearsons Illustrated car servicing guide for morris/austin/mg1100.

Don't want anything for it. Can chuck it in the post or drop off to you.

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I actually have two of those same books! Thanks for offering though :)

Potentially @RobT maybe interested in it though. 

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I suppose I should update this thread. Progress slowed down to an almost crawl after personal life events, work and lack of mojo taken its toll.

Finished cleaning up the locks.

Oiled and greased the window mechanism. This had rusted off at the end but luckily the roller doesn't go this far, so still serviceable.
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Hoovered out the rust in the bottom of the door and filled with dintrol
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Put all back together
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Door card back on. Like most door cards, this was missing a good few of its trim clips to hold it on.
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Then did the same for the other side. Exterior door handle needed adjusting slightly as the key didn't quite have enough travel to push lock/unlock mechanism.
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Also went to the trouble of taping up the insides to prevent water ingress.
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Back together
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Steering wheel wobbled a bit and after a bit of investigation, it appears the nut was finger tight. So got out my biggest bar and tightened it up.
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Still some lateral play in it. Guess this is normal??

Then krusted and painted the subframe mounts. No after pictures as I'm shocking with paint.
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Finally adjusted the new handbrake cables.

Only things left is to fit the new seatbelts and tune the engine up!

Someone has painted TDC in the viewing hole.
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Unfortunately it doesn't look like it quite lines up correctly.
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I'll double check with the timing light but if it's close, I'll leave the distributor as is. Going by the new leads, garage receipts and like, I think it's been adjusted recently anyway.

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For the steering wheel, is there a plastic bush in the column?  Other BL (and presumably BMC) stuff tends to have a plastic collar at each end of the steering column, they go brittle and break and then the steering wheel can wobble about a bit even when tightened up.

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For the steering wheel, is there a plastic bush in the column?  Other BL (and presumably BMC) stuff tends to have a plastic collar at each end of the steering column, they go brittle and break and then the steering wheel can wobble about a bit even when tightened up.
Possibly! Or probably? I'll go check the parts manual and see what it says. Unless BeEP/sharly know off hand.
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Put my new automatic seatbelts in last night. I'm sure some will think it's sacrilege to replace fixed belts with retractable, but those fixed belts really aren't very comfortable. Almost like they exist purely to tick the requirement of front seat belts but they know really most users will leave them adjusted right back and not use them...

Also pulled out the carpet. Whoever put the car carpet in obviously decided it was far too thin and put regular old carpet as backing. Unfortunately somehow it's got wet under there and it's kept it wet. Probably where it was sat outside before I got it into the garage. So wet carpet sat there for over 3 months or so. Paintwork on the floor has bubbled into water filled blisters. I'll get this running and driving, then probably sand it back and then put fresh paint down.

Seat belts just held on with some straight forward bolts.
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New belts went in as easy as you might expect. I chose Beige coloured belts and when they came they looked nothing like beige. However in the car they look a pretty good match. Match coloured belts with interior certainly isn't an extravagance that certainly BMC would have done out of the factory!
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Now a case of finally dropping it back down, getting her started and tuned up. Initially I'm going to do a few laps up and down our cul-de-sac to see how she runs. Then venture out briefly onto the main road to get to back roads for a bit of light pottering around. Hopefully with everything that has been checked and done, she shouldn't have any excuse to embarrass herself.

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4 minutes ago, SiC said:

The interior is already fully assembled!

 

Whoops! my apologise! LOL

I think its the bare floor still that made me think there was further assembly to be done

what i mean then is it will be interesting to see a general general overview shot :) 

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