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Early Mondeo Saloon Saved From The Scrapman.


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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Wow, can't believe I haven't posted on here since the MoT fail in November.
This project is now going from bad to worse. Having finally managed to remove the cam belt and all the pulleys I only need to remove the water pump and I can start reassembly with new bits. Four bolts, all visible and easily accessible, so no problem. But wait, the hose outlet for the water pump is hidden behind the power-steering pump, so that needs to come off. No pictures or diagrams in the HBOL but it says remove the four bolts, the front ones are accessed through holes in the PS pump pulley. Impossible to see the bolts behind the pulley as it is only about an inch away from the inner wing rail and doesn't appear to be removable. I can feel the heads of three bolts through the holes in the pulley but I can't see to get a socket on them. Even if I could I think there is no chance of getting them out without losing the socket and at least one of the bolts. I also cannot see any sign of the supposed fourth bolt, so there is no point in trying to get the other three out if I can't find number four. Even if I could get the pump off I don't see how I could ever get it back on again as trying to get three bolts back through the holes in the pulley, then the holes in the pump, then threaded into the tapped holes in the engine block while working completely blind appears to be pretty much impossible. I am now used to having to take off loads of other stuff to access the part I need to remove and so far I have at least managed to do this, but this has me baffled.
Does anyone know how to remove  and replace this pump?
@sierraman ?  @egg ?
TIA for any help.
 

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The pulley has holes in it to access the retaining bolts, I think I’ve got a PAS pump somewhere I’ll have a look

I don’t think the bolts need to come out completely, just backwards enough not to hold it to the engine. I have a pulley but it’s in one of my sheds, I’ll have a look at the weekend.

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dunno how I missed this post..

Gorgeous Ghia, mates got an L plate Ghia or Si he's recently dragged back from his parents house, been in his family since it was 18months old..fair bit of grot on rear arches, but otherwise tidy..he also rebuilt the head when it was 4 or 5 years old as cambelt failed on him..same wheels as this one too..

 

OHHH the K reg close to me, turns out to be an L reg..LOL actually managed to look at the reg today!!!

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16 hours ago, egg said:

 

245732004_IMG_20210218_1804172.thumb.jpg.d916038373904c4b59365b49419c7dcf.jpg

 

 

Thanks for the diagrams. I have done all the other steps shown but on the actual car the "Detach the bottom hose at the water pump" sketch looks completely different. It is impossible to even see the hose stub on the water pump, let alone remove the hose. I think this must have been drawn with the power steering pump already removed, so I still have the same problem.
 

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52 minutes ago, Slowsilver said:

Thanks for the diagrams. I have done all the other steps shown but on the actual car the "Detach the bottom hose at the water pump" sketch looks completely different. It is impossible to even see the hose stub on the water pump, let alone remove the hose. I think this must have been drawn with the power steering pump already removed, so I still have the same problem.
 

Frustrating.

Here are the PAS pump removal instructions...such as they are.

IMG_20210219_115531.thumb.jpg.cfcd03ea8efb3d08429c7c2d954af5b0.jpg

 

IMG_20210219_115649.thumb.jpg.c47747d67bbaeafd8c1ecb88bd6b444c.jpg

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Im assuming you’ve removed the lower aux belt cover from inside the wheel arch, this should allow you access. You’d have needed to do this anyway to get the gun on the bottom pulley bolt. 

Also, check underneath the pump with your hand, it may have a single 15mm bolt bolting it to the head pointing toward the back of the car. 

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10 minutes ago, egg said:

Frustrating.

Here are the PAS pump removal instructions...such as they are.

IMG_20210219_115649.thumb.jpg.c47747d67bbaeafd8c1ecb88bd6b444c.jpg

Thanks for this. It does look as though the front three bolts have to be removed through the pulley but at least I can now see the location of the fourth bolt threading into the top of the pump from the back. I will look again when I get a chance.
 

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I'm reminded of my friend's father's K Reg; K***VKE. Metallic Red. It got many looks from the School Run Massiv as we were driven straight* home. 

Good memories! My first experience in a car with a big engine was the same chap's Mondeo. 

It was a V6 in an Atlantic Blue like colour. Context; I had a newish Lupo and the deal was someone should move it if the Parking Attendant appears. 

Obviously one did* so I had** to drive it around the block as agreed. 

I'm good like that... 😇

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  • 1 month later...

Finally managed to get the power steering pump off. Completely different to the above diagram. Instead of the fourth bolt going in to the top of the pump from the back it actually goes into the bottom. But it is hidden behind the heat shield over the exhaust manifold, which has to be taken off to access it. Removal reveals this:

20210307_155117.thumb.jpg.98913ef2ec5f89b688ec20e0a174c44b.jpg

The water pump hose connection is buried inside a huge cast metal bracket with the only access from the top left quadrant. It has a stupid squeeze to release clip on it which only opened about 10mm and was really, really tight. I eventually managed to wriggle a pair of mole grips in and clamp it fully open but it was so deeply sunk into the rubber hose that I still couldn't persuade it to release, especially since it was impossible to get any leverage on the bottom or the right-hand side of the clip. Normally I would have just cut the hose off and replaced it, but the bottom hose on this thing is like nothing I have ever seen before, a sort of bizarre pentopus thing like so:

20210319_171001.thumb.jpg.84c230ab43e52a9ab14ef633a1606a47.jpg

These are not easily available and where they are they cost about £50! And anyway the hose would not pass through the hole in the bracket with the clip still on it. In desperation I managed to get a Dremel with a cutting disc as far in as possible and carefully cut through the clip without damaging the hose too much, thus removing about a quarter of the clip's circumference. But the bl**dy thing still wouldn't budge. Gave up in disgust and retired indoors for "due consideration" of the solution.
Returned to it the next day with a new idea. Removed the other four bottom hose stubs from their attachments, then unbolted the water pump and managed to pull it left and hammer the hose and the remains of the clip back through the hole in the bracket. This allowed me to then twist the water pump and get access to the right-hand side of the clip. With the aid of four screwdrivers I eventually managed to prise the clip off and the hose finally came free of the water pump stub, allowing the pump to at last be removed.

20210316_180417.thumb.jpg.8a6eb1e5af2688e6c5905ad55645595e.jpg

Looks pretty manky in there, the water pump has obviously been leaking and was probably (hopefully) the cause of the graunching noise that stopped the MoT tester doing the emissions test.

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From a useful link posted on this thread I bought a new water pump from Amazon for the bargain price of £10. Unfortunately it did not come with a new gasket and when attempting to buy one I discovered that they appear to be unobtanium. I only found one seller listing on Ebay and that was for the 1.6 & 1.8 engines only. Who would have guessed that the 2.0 litre is different? It was also about £14, more than I paid for the pump. So I made one out of gasket paper:

20210324_123056.thumb.jpg.ed038fd157c22b63e87345bae127aac4.jpg

Not pretty but will hopefully do the job.

Lots of shiny new bits fitted:

20210324_162251.thumb.jpg.913612fad67b99bfa6622865204234d9.jpg

New water pump, cam belt, idler pulleys and tensioner.

Everything now put back together. Turn the ignition key and wait for loud and terminal bang from wrecked engine because I got the belt timing wrong. But no! Started immediately with no nasty noises. But what is this? Starting the engine without touching the accelerator the revs gradually climb to about 4,500rpm and stay there. The mechanical throttle linkage is working fine and if I disconnect the MAF sensor plug it ticks over at about 1,000rpm but very lumpy and is reluctant to rev, although can just about be driven gently. I have checked for any obvious leaks in the air intake system and cleaned the MAF but the problem persists. It was running fine before the cam belt work and I only removed and then replaced the air intake stuff for access This car really does not want to be saved and doesn't realise how close it is getting to the scrapyard. My patience is wearing thin (again). Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be? Any suggestions gratefully received.
 

 

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If it needs to go to the scrapyard bring it to the fod and we can let it grenade itself on axle stands whilst you raise a toast... 

Equally that stinks of some sort of sensor or wire trickery. Had it once mid overtake but it was the pedal getting hooked under the mat, that was briefly scary

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This Gates lower rad hose is a little cheaper at £40 rather than £50. Just check version if needed though as there some variants I believe. This number is for manual non-air con in theory 1013384

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gates-3811-GAT-Radiator-Hose/dp/B00AJW15CG

Bad idle is a very common Zetec issue unfortunately. 

Well done for doing all the bits you have done so far, it's all good work!

There's also an unbranded one here for £27, but may be a false economy if you can't get one of the inevitably slightly rusty connections to seal.

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3 hours ago, greengartside said:

I think it could possibly be the Power steering switch. Same thing happened on my dad’s one. Change that and you’ll be reet I’d say?

Sierraman sent me a spare recently, it could be sent on if needed. 

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