Jump to content

Early Mondeo Saloon Saved From The Scrapman.


Slowsilver

Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, Slowsilver said:

Just half-heartedly tried a bit of T-Cut on the back corner of the roof. Makes a bit of difference eventually but needs about 6 goes to see it. I think I need something a bit more aggresive. Don't really want to go to wet and dry paper, so maybe some sort of cutting compound. Can anybody recommend something suitable that works well?

Fantastic save and brilliant report - with pictures!!! :-)

Try water and a clay bar as the first action, to clean off lumps of stuff and resins, to avoid these getting worked deeper into the paint when you use the cutting compound... then use wax after the cutting compound, to give the newly-cleaned surface a protective finish that can in itself be polished...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, egg said:

On one of the Mondy Facebook pages, batteries for the torches have been sourced to make them live again, if you can find a torch, that is.

I’m pretty sure I have two of them, one from my dad’s Mondeo before it was scrapped and another one I pillaged from a Ghia from the scrapyard many moons ago. If I can find them (after lockdown) then Quicksilver, you are welcome to one for the cost of postage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, greengartside said:

I’m pretty sure I have two of them, one from my dad’s Mondeo before it was scrapped and another one I pillaged from a Ghia from the scrapyard many moons ago. If I can find them (after lockdown) then Quicksilver, you are welcome to one for the cost of postage.

That's good of you GG, I'm told the batteries the Silver's will need are these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07ZHF849S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TMHHEb7YASJVT?fbclid=IwAR20q2JlyxSz3av2bHsSLaniJtR1HgVMgTFJRTLF9XMiA_0o8MYoAMCFsPE

41F0DreW2TL._AC_.jpg

Then should look like this...

91588967_1084097431951057_64405033524249

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, Slowsilver said:

Don't tempt me yet. This is supposed to be a lockdown project and there are quite a few things I will enjoy doing to it before it leaves our custody.


Sorry, no cheques, cash only! ?

That's perfect, as I mostly enjoy driving them and posing as my Mid 90s Dad with Moustache, clip board and Goatee beard.

Luncheon vouchers?  No??  Cash it is!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Top save sir. I still cannot get my head around the fact that these, like so many others were just rep mobiles. Now they are considered classics. No different from when I started on the classic scene 35yrs ago. Ford Escorts, Capris, Cortinas were just bangers. We shudder at how many of these were just ragged then scrapped. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, egg said:

That base at 1500 quid has been for sale for about 2 years. 

They obviously haven't got the message yet that it's not going to fetch that amount, and haven't considered reducing the price.
Chancers!

12 hours ago, greengartside said:

I’m pretty sure I have two of them, one from my dad’s Mondeo before it was scrapped and another one I pillaged from a Ghia from the scrapyard many moons ago. If I can find them (after lockdown) then Quicksilver, you are welcome to one for the cost of postage.

It would be great if we could get hold of one to help enhance the originality factor, even if it doesn't work. No hurry obviously, but please keep it in mind and let us know if you have any luck finding one.
Many thanks for the offer.
 

2 hours ago, egg said:

Useful info should @greengartside come up with the goods.
Many thanks.

2 hours ago, BorniteIdentity said:

That's perfect, as I mostly enjoy driving them and posing as my Mid 90s Dad with Moustache, clip board and Goatee beard.

Luncheon vouchers?  No??  Cash it is!

Since I intend to leave the giffer pack with it you can add flat cap, leather driving gloves and umbrella to your outfit.
Sounds more 70s than 90s ?.

13 hours ago, Mrs6C said:

Fantastic save and brilliant report - with pictures!!! :-)

Try water and a clay bar as the first action, to clean off lumps of stuff and resins, to avoid these getting worked deeper into the paint when you use the cutting compound... then use wax after the cutting compound, to give the newly-cleaned surface a protective finish that can in itself be polished...

Thanks for the advice. Never used a clay bar and wondered how good they were. I will order one and we will give it a try.
@quicksilver is currently delegated as i/c bodywork, but I don't know how long his enthusiam will last!
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, guess what?
After all the slagging off the DVLA gets on here (justifiably I'm sure), having sent off the new keeper slip and the SORN declaration on Monday afternoon, surprise, surprise, I received the new V5 in my name through the post this morning. Four day turnaround when I was expecting at least four weeks. It now shows up online as untaxed, with tax due date of 20/04/2020, so presumably one department has done the keeper change then passed it on to the SORN department, who haven't actioned it yet. Hope they do it soon or I will start getting threatening letters. I could probably SORN it online now that I am the registered keeper but, having sent the SORN form, I don't want to risk confusing the issue. Maybe I'll wait a week or so to see what happens and if I do get a letter will try SORNing it online then.

However there is a strange entry on the new V5 which was not on the previous one. In the "Special notes" section, under the usual "DECLARED NEW AT FIRST REGISTRATION" entry there is an additional entry which reads "THIS VEHICLE HAS BEEN SALVAGED BECAUSE THE ESTIMATED COST OF COMMERCIAL REPAIR WAS MORE THAN THE VALUE OF THE VEHICLE". Don't understand this because surely if the DVLA had been notified that it was scrapped, the previous V5 would have had to be returned. Could it possibly be that the garage who quoted the £1000 to repair it reported it to the DVLA? If it had been written off and repaired previously to the last owner acquiring it I would have expected to see this on the previous V5. So far I have not  seen any obvious signs of damage repair and the previous owner obviously drove it from 1995 until 2013 with no problems until it failed its last MoT.
I iz puzzled.
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's the entry that's usually there if the car's been in an accident and bought back from the insurer for repair I believe.  Wording is very similar to what was there on my first 306 (which had needed a new rear bumper and tail light after a reversing argument with a bollard apparently).  Wouldn't worry about it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

That's the entry that's usually there if the car's been in an accident and bought back from the insurer for repair I believe.  Wording is very similar to what was there on my first 306 (which had needed a new rear bumper and tail light after a reversing argument with a bollard apparently).  Wouldn't worry about it.

I agree.  I'd not worry about it.  It's a shame, but nothing more really.  It'd certainly affect the value if you were going to sell it in a white room with full provenance at a big price, but as the numbers thin out further it won't stop you getting a buyer.

After all, I'm still here !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, BorniteIdentity said:

@LightBulbFunmight even confirm it for you!

sadly I cant do a full HPI check

although my tool does have "HPI" type options I have not chased up enabling them etc

currently its setup just to grab info from the DVLA, stuff like chassis numbers, engine numbers, keeper counts that sort of stuff (ie the stuff you would find on a V5c although nothing from the special notes section sadly!)

as thats whats important to me and my invalid vehicle research!

I can say the Mondeo doesn't have any scrapped markers or the such like currently applied :) 

image.png.de73862d2c62a1ef4afdc43a71aeeada.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent stuff - great to see an early Mondeo saved. Look forward to seeing it in the tin when a FoD event is possible. 

I don’t have a Haynes manual for you (at one point I had two for these) but they will be dirt cheap in EBay or Amazon (look for secondhand ones on the main books listing).  There’s also one for the diesel engined models on the Haynes manual thread in the for sale section for the cost of postage. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

59 minutes ago, LightBulbFun said:

sadly I cant do a full HPI check

although my tool does have "HPI" type options I have not chased up enabling them etc

currently its setup just to grab info from the DVLA, stuff like chassis numbers, engine numbers, keeper counts that sort of stuff (ie the stuff you would find on a V5c although nothing from the special notes section sadly!)

as thats whats important to me and my invalid vehicle research!

I can say the Mondeo doesn't have any scrapped markers or the such like currently applied :) 

image.png.de73862d2c62a1ef4afdc43a71aeeada.png

I showed my mate this screen shot and he knows what tool this is, has it in his bookmarks somewhere. 
I’ll get the name from him and share it on here, so people have the option. 
Handy. ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Christine said:

I reckon the damage was to the roof . That's why the laquer has bloomed, its not factory.  

I nearly said "that roof has been repainted at some time" when I saw that 'clouding of the lacquer'.  Post factory lacquer just doesn't seem to last as well as the factory stuff.  

It doesn't detract from the car though, you be lucky to get to 27 years without some paintwork.

Does Autotrader show up any Cat markers if you run through the ad process and 'bail' before submitting?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just trying to get all the lights working. Some blown bulbs and lots of corroded contacts. Everything works now except one of the rear fog lights. Unlike most other cars I have worked on these early Mondeos use a 21 watt single-filament bulb for the brake light, which is the same as the indicator bulbs. Then they use a 5/21 watt double-filament bulb for the rear light (5W) and the rear fog light (21W). One of these has blown its 21W filament. No problem, thinks I, it's a standard stop/tail bulb with vertically offset pins to stop it being put in the wrong way round. But no, one of these does not fit. Closer inspection reveals that as well as the pins being offset vertically they are also offset radially and instead of being opposite each other (i.e. at 180 degrees) they have the pins positioned at about 170 degrees. Why they can't use a standard 180 degree stop/tail bulb for these is a mystery, as it would work just as well but no, Henry in his infinite wisdom decides to specify a slightly different item just for the sake of it. The problem is that these bulbs appear to be unobtanium online, at least I can't find one which specifically states or shows that the pins are offset both vertically and radially. Does anyone know where I can buy one online? Obvioulsy I could try a Ford dealer but not until after lockdown, and even if they do stock them I expect they will £££s.
I thought by getting a nice simple* Ford I could avoid the idiosyncracies of Bob the Renault's Frenchness, but it seems that is not the case.
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, Slowsilver said:

Just trying to get all the lights working. Some blown bulbs and lots of corroded contacts. Everything works now except one of the rear fog lights. Unlike most other cars I have worked on these early Mondeos use a 21 watt single-filament bulb for the brake light, which is the same as the indicator bulbs. Then they use a 5/21 watt double-filament bulb for the rear light (5W) and the rear fog light (21W). One of these has blown its 21W filament. No problem, thinks I, it's a standard stop/tail bulb with vertically offset pins to stop it being put in the wrong way round. But no, one of these does not fit. Closer inspection reveals that as well as the pins being offset vertically they are also offset radially and instead of being opposite each other (i.e. at 180 degrees) they have the pins positioned at about 170 degrees. Why they can't use a standard 180 degree stop/tail bulb for these is a mystery, as it would work just as well but no, Henry in his infinite wisdom decides to specify a slightly different item just for the sake of it. The problem is that these bulbs appear to be unobtanium online, at least I can't find one which specifically states or shows that the pins are offset both vertically and radially. Does anyone know where I can buy one online? Obvioulsy I could try a Ford dealer but not until after lockdown, and even if they do stock them I expect they will £££s.
I thought by getting a nice simple* Ford I could avoid the idiosyncracies of Bob the Renault's Frenchness, but it seems that is not the case.
 

if you could give me all the details marked on the bulb then I should be able to decode it all and hopefully provide you with a link suitable replacement :) 

and also pictures in general please :) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, LightBulbFun said:

if you could give me all the details marked on the bulb then I should be able to decode it all and hopefully provide you with a link suitable replacement :) 

and also pictures in general please :) 

both the existing bulb are marked:

Motorcraft L 12V 21/4W E1 28A FRANCE 3D P21/4W (The 28A bit could be 2BA)

Bit difficult to photograph clearly on my phone, but here we go.

Showing verical pin offset:

20200424_171809.thumb.jpg.fc0e953f860361292323a8f464da9abf.jpg

Showing radial pin offset:

20200424_171647.thumb.jpg.353f503f211a67228b82c5442540ea2f.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Slowsilver said:

both the existing bulb are marked:

Motorcraft L 12V 21/4W E1 28A FRANCE 3D P21/4W (The 28A bit could be 2BA)

Bit difficult to photograph clearly on my phone, but here we go.

Showing verical pin offset:

20200424_171809.thumb.jpg.fc0e953f860361292323a8f464da9abf.jpg

Showing radial pin offset:

20200424_171647.thumb.jpg.353f503f211a67228b82c5442540ea2f.jpg

 

Pretty sure its Philips made From April 1993 :) 

indeed the bulbs I and @egg linked should fit/be compatible that is indeed a BAW15d base :) edit BAZ15d my bad!

(nb the reason for this different base is probably because these lamps have a different optical setup compared to a "normal" 5/21W lamp so if you fitted one of those then you could potentially mess up the optics of things and blind someone or such!)

try compare them to a norma 5/21W bulb and see if the filaments are laid out in a different position compared to each other :) 

(its interesting to note how its 4/21W rather then 5/21W)

 

its type code is p21/4w

if you search that then plenty of others come up :) 

even halfords have em! https://www.halfords.com/motoring/bulbs/566-p21%2F4w-car-bulb-manufacturers-standard-halfords-single-pack-717961.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...