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Early Mondeo Saloon Saved From The Scrapman.


Slowsilver

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1 minute ago, sierraman said:

I don’t know by sounds of the test history it’s seen a metric shit load of welding over the years. 

Oh jeez, just looked - yeah. Probably some old giffer had spent a fortune on it. As it's only done 40k miles, it's either had a haircut or been stored in the wettest part of South Yorkshire.

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3 minutes ago, egg said:

Oh jeez, just looked - yeah. Probably some old giffer had spent a fortune on it. As it's only done 40k miles, it's either had a haircut or been stored in the wettest part of South Yorkshire.

Sounds like it’s heading to the nearest oval once it gets to welding over welding. 1.6 Saloon, the banger racers will be all over that!

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39 minutes ago, egg said:

Oh jeez, just looked - yeah. Probably some old giffer had spent a fortune on it. As it's only done 40k miles, it's either had a haircut or been stored in the wettest part of South Yorkshire.

Yeah 40k is fuck all mileage for a K reg if genuine. Are the Mk1 Mondeos generally bad at rusting? 

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A borked ABS module is what killed mine last year after it failed its MOT. You can still find new-old stock units on Ebay in the US but they're fucking expensive and you have to get them shipped over. I couldn't afford one so I had to have my N reg 1.8 GLX hatch turned into washing machines and carpet underlay. I'd love to see this one sorted, because it's a lovely example. 

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48 minutes ago, MondeoBlues said:

You can still find new-old stock units on Ebay in the US but they're fucking expensive and you have to get them shipped over.

Are they the same as the Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique then?

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3 hours ago, Eyersey1234 said:

Yeah 40k is fuck all mileage for a K reg if genuine. Are the Mk1 Mondeos generally bad at rusting? 

Yes, funnily enough the Mk2 rotted worse. Rear arches, inner rear wheel arches, boot floor where spare wheel sits, ends of sills, bottoms of doors, fuel filler surround, back of the floor where the fuel filter is and if they’re really bad the rear chassis legs. 

Like old fruit left in the sun. 

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Decided that I was fed up with all the trim bits cluttering up the garage and burying Bob so I decided to put them all back in the car to give more room for when I attack the brakes.
Forgot to post these pics last time. Underneath the windscreen grilles looked like this:

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All cleaned out, pollen filter housing resealed to bulkhead with some 10mm diameter foam cord. New pollen filter fitted.
Grilles cleaned up. Boiled linseed oil is your friend. Compare the as-removed passenger's side with the cleaned-up driver's side:

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Same trick with the wiper arms. The metal bits looked OK but the plastic covers that fold down over the fixings nuts had gone a very pale grey. All back together:

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After three attempts the leaks past the rear lights into the boot are finally fixed. 6mm diameter nitrile rubber cord is too hard to deform and seal against the back panel, 6mm foam rubber cord doesn't protrude enough to seal against the back panel, 8mm diameter foam rubber cord is ideal. It can be pushed into the sealing groove and doesn't need to be glued. It then sits about 3mm proud of the groove and you can see it being satisfyingly squashed as the mounting nuts are tightened. One heavy rain shower later confirms no leaks from here. But while checking for leaks I noticed this:

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Water dripping down onto the driver's side wheelarch and pooling on the boot floor. I had noticed a leak here once before but this time I had inadvertently aided the tracing of the source of the leak by having the back of the car jacked up on axle stands to investigate the braking problem. It was coming in here:

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Directly above the leak is this join where the panel under the back window joins the gutter down the side of the boot below the rubber seal. This gutter is normally about horizontal or slightly downwards towards the rear of the car but because it was jacked up it was actually sloping downwards towards the front of the car, You can hopefully see the rainwater pooling against the join. I felt underneath this seam inside the top of the boot and, sure enough, it was soaking wet. This join appears to have originally been sealed with some sort of white mastic but this has obviously failed. So a good clean up on both sides and judicious application of some silicone sealant and finally we have a watertight boot. So all the cleaned-up boot trim was replaced:

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The carpets, seats and interior trim were all cleaned up and replaced and the interior is now complete again. Some more boiled linseed oil smartened up the dashboard, the centre console and the grotty-looking floor mats.

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Phew! Finally have a complete car again and some room in the garage. Can't put it off any longer. ABS unit is next on the agenda. If I can't fix it this will probably be the cleanest car ever to go over the bridge ?.

 

 

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Still not sure if this approach will pass an MoT. As mentioned before on here it would seem to be an acceptable solution to remove the ABS if it was optional, but from what I have read all Ghia models had ABS fitted as standard. Let's get the thing to bits first and see what we can find.
 

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Vauxhall corsa Ds suffer badly with the abs pump failing and one of the brakes not working. Probably same issue. We take the electronic part off and keep that with the car, get a second hand abs module, separate that and swap the electronic part over. It always works, it's usually the electronic part that's different not the valve body. There usually bolted on with 4 very small long bolts. Is that worth a try, thdn you can get one from any model?. Just a thought. 

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3 hours ago, BorniteIdentity said:

Is it time for it to join the warm, reassuring bosom of Borniteidentity Industries? I’m 100% confident I can get that 12 months ticket. There’s space coming on the drive too ? 

Seems silly for it travel all the way to Bornite Industries when it would have to practically pass my front door and I’m equally confident of an MOT.

Whatever happens let’s have no more talk of The Bridge.

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5 minutes ago, sutty2006 said:

Boiled Linseed oil you say? Please elaborate on this technique as there are areas on my discovery that need “unshiting” 

 

great news on the mk1. I do love seeing these 

Works great on reviving faded plastic trim and cricket bats. Puts the oils back in allegedly but not too greasy. Available for about a fiver down the DIY shop. Just rub it in with an old rag. Top thread by the way @Slowsilver, just read from start to finish.

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Mondy has cleaned up really well, top job.

i was after some linseed oil recently to revive some putty.  I struggled to get any.  We were in lockdown so I wasn’t going to tour the world.  I used Teak Oil on the putty after reading that Teak oil was a mixture of Tung Oil.  Tung oil is based on something else and I was starting to get confused.  It reminded me why I failed my Chemistry exams.  Anyway the Teak Oil did the trick on the putty.

don’t throw the rag ‘screwed up’ as it can self combust.  I know someone who set their skip on fire this way, accidentally.  Of course the hire company gave them a bollockin for using the skip as an incinerator.   The linseed oil rag ‘cause’ was relayed as an accident.  I understand the skip company were ‘yeah, sure it was’

looking forward to seeing this ABS module challenge overcome.  

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15 hours ago, NorfolkNWeigh said:

Seems silly for it travel all the way to Bornite Industries when it would have to practically pass my front door and I’m equally confident of an MOT.

Whatever happens let’s have no more talk of The Bridge.

Talk of the bridge is (I hope) only tongue in cheek banter. There already seems to be several people on here offering it a good home if I fail. Would be nice if I could get it on the road and drive it for a bit though, instead of just staring at it on the drive.
 

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15 hours ago, Isaac Hunt said:

Mondy has cleaned up really well, top job.

i was after some linseed oil recently to revive some putty.  I struggled to get any.  We were in lockdown so I wasn’t going to tour the world.  I used Teak Oil on the putty after reading that Teak oil was a mixture of Tung Oil.  Tung oil is based on something else and I was starting to get confused.  It reminded me why I failed my Chemistry exams.  Anyway the Teak Oil did the trick on the putty.

don’t throw the rag ‘screwed up’ as it can self combust.  I know someone who set their skip on fire this way, accidentally.  Of course the hire company gave them a bollockin for using the skip as an incinerator.   The linseed oil rag ‘cause’ was relayed as an accident.  I understand the skip company were ‘yeah, sure it was’

looking forward to seeing this ABS module challenge overcome.  

Thank you for your kind words. Boiled linseed oil was recommended to me some time ago to revive the rubbing strips on the doors of my Zafira, which had gone really grey and stripey after 20 years. I can't remember where the tip came from (possibly even on here). I bought a 250ml bottle from Ebay for about £7 including postage then on my next trip into town I discovered that our small local hardware shop had 500ml bottles in stock for about £4. Never thought to check there first but will know now for when I need some more. Since I bought some I have used it on numerous things. Anything black rubber or plastic, inside or outside, comes up a treat. It is particulary good at restoring black plastic which has faded to grey. If you apply it sparingly it is not too shiny and soon fades to a nice natural patina, unlike the "back to black" type stuff, which is more expensive and usually looks too shiny. The bonus is that anything you use it on smells like a cricket bat ?.
Thanks for the tip about the rag. When I read your post I immediately rushed out into the garage and spread it out flat, although it was well soaked and, even screwed up, it actually felt colder than the ambient temperature.
 

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4 minutes ago, mitsisigma01 said:

Who needs brakes on the pedal, handbrake it everywhere! 

Nice idea but apart from no MoT the handbrake is self-adjusting and relies on the shoes self-adjusting via the footbrake. Because the hydraulics don't work on one back wheel the handbrake does not adjust up on that side, which probably explains why it failed its last MoT for an ineffective handbrake as well as unbalanced rear brakes. It's a pity they didn't put "no braking effort on nearside rear" rather than just "unbalanced". To me unbalanced just means a bit different, not nothing at all on one side.
 

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I had a chat with the gent who had the issues with the Saab 9000 years back.

Turned out one of the issues he had was that the garage he was using had one of those all singing, all dancing computerised brake testing rigs.  It automatically looked up the details for the vehicle in question on some database somewhere and set all the pass/fail values automatically.  The only input the tester had was entering the reg number, pressing "start test" and then applying the footbrake and handbrake when prompted, and finally pressing "save and print result."  It was expecting the car to have ABS, and refused to entertain things otherwise.

The tester just read things off the screen and flatly told them "it has to have working ABS to pass, computer says so."

The general consensus he's heard since then was that on a pre-2010 car it should be fine provided that the brakes work properly (which is why he was stripping the ABS off his Saab...the failure on that resulted in ZERO brakes on the pedal), and the warning light isn't lit.

Of course since he totally stripped the entire ABS system off his car, then spent forever finding a good ABS module, refitting everything...it never gave any trouble afterwards!

EDIT: Seeing the screnshot on the previous page...They've removed the check for reserve pressure on full power hydraulic systems?  That's fscking terrifying...

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After much swearing and skinned knuckles today I finally managed to remove the master cylinder and the servo to allow me to see the ABS unit. Judging by the difficulty I had removing them I have no idea how I am going to get them back on again, but I'll worry about that later.
There are two numbers on it, one below the barcode on the same sticker, which is B552551, and one above the barcode on a separate sticker which is F4RF2C219-AK.
I put the first number into Ebay and it returned several results, most of which also mentioned the second number. Unfortunately there do not appear to be any in the UK. They are either from Latvia for about £30 including postage or from Spain for about £100 including postage.
Probably wishful thinking but it occured to me that the problem could be that the pressure control valve for the nearside rear brake is blocked or stuck shut. This is a separate valve which is screwed into the ABS module so I think I will try to remove this first and check it, if that is possible.

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