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What to do with a Blue D2.


Talbot

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On 4/13/2020 at 7:29 PM, Talbot said:

 I have a 2001 "Y" Discovery 2 Td5.  Had it for about 8 or so years.  It's been my daily driver, spare vehicle, tow vehicle, all sorts of things.  It's been parked up for most of two years and I now need to decide what to do with it.  It has issues:

  • Clutch is slipping at full power.  I have a SMF and clutch conversion kit to fit, but am not convinced the release bearing doesn't need a spacer or adapter of some sort.  I could just put a standard clutch in it, either way, the box has to come off to fix this.
  • 4th Gear synchromesh is completely gone.  The gearbox has never been brilliant, always been quite stiff in use and has in the past been very noisy.  It had the oil swapped out for the "wrong" one a number of years back and I think it did some lasting damage.  I swapped it back out for the correct oil and it went quieter again but it was never quite right.
  • Engine cannot develop full power.  It feels like there is a fuel restriction, either a blocked filter, or perhaps a weak in-tank delivery pump.  It does start and drive ok, just not above ~2500rpm and about half-power.
  • Rear chassis has a lot of corrosion.  I've previously welded up bottom of the offside rear dip, the nearside one now needs doing and there's surface rust all over the chassis wherever you look from about halfway back.
  • Both rear brake pipes are badly corroded and need changing.
  • Rear step has been removed as it was absolutely rotten.
  • Front sunroof doesn't move.  I can hear relays clicking but I suspect the motor is dead.
  • Laquer on the bonnet has begun to peel, and there is some paint damage elsewhere.

I'm weighing up whether it's worth doing the work needed on it.  I'm in two minds as there are a number of positives too:

  • It's an ES model, meaning it's got leather, power seats, decent stereo
  • ACE works and the suspension seems to be in good order.
  • 7-seat model with working rear air suspension.
  • Working front&rear split zone air-conditioning (which appears to be fairly rare)
  • It had the OMGHGF done a few years back, along with the exhaust manifold de-webbed and EGR delete.
  • Having spent some time cleaning it up, it's really not in bad condition.  Other than the Laquer peel, it looks fairly presentable.

Is it worth repairing?  The biggest issue I have is that I quite like it.  Had I the time/money I'd shove a Galvanised chassis under it and do all the other repairs needed while the body is off.  Unfortunately that's £lots.

Turbo waste gate actuators get stuck on td5's and you get surging/kangarooing at higher revs. Get some grips on the arm and manually work it back and forward and if you have some graphite powder a squirt of that helps too. Had it with mine and well worth checking before playing with pumps. 

For the gearbox try Fuchs Sintofluid manual transmission fluid. It's what is rebottled and sold as 'Difflock Evo. 1' oil (so legend has it) but about half the price. Totally and utterly transformed my gearbox, no more baulking and behaved perfectly when cold. 

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The turbo is spinning, I can hear it making it's usual noises as you drive, but the wastegate actuator could well be an issue.. It certainly feels like there's a feedback loop cutting in and out all the time.  Might have to see if I can get a video of it to show what it's doing.  I'll check the actuator arm first though, as it's dead easy to get to.

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On 4/15/2020 at 11:29 PM, leafsprung said:

For the gearbox try Fuchs Sintofluid manual transmission fluid. It's what is rebottled and sold as 'Difflock Evo. 1' oil (so legend has it) but about half the price. Totally and utterly transformed my gearbox, no more baulking and behaved perfectly when cold. 

Do they do a similar magic potion for the chassis rust?  A 500ml bottle of "Chassis Restore" that you can pour in somewhere and suddenly you have a chassis as good as new?  That would be absolutely perfect!

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12 hours ago, Talbot said:

Do they do a similar magic potion for the chassis rust?  A 500ml bottle of "Chassis Restore" that you can pour in somewhere and suddenly you have a chassis as good as new?  That would be absolutely perfect!

Oh but of course. Read any eBay advert. It's called 'Waxoyl'..... 

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The turbo is spinning, I can hear it making it's usual noises as you drive, but the wastegate actuator could well be an issue.. It certainly feels like there's a feedback loop cutting in and out all the time.  Might have to see if I can get a video of it to show what it's doing.  I'll check the actuator arm first though, as it's dead easy to get to.
When we brought the 110 I was surprised how slow it was but just accepted it....... 3 month later I replaced the actuator and got the grips out.....


My wife got an invitation to a speed awareness course 48 hrs later.

Sent from my SM-A530F using Tapatalk

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On 4/17/2020 at 10:28 AM, Talbot said:

Do they do a similar magic potion for the chassis rust?  A 500ml bottle of "Chassis Restore" that you can pour in somewhere and suddenly you have a chassis as good as new?  That would be absolutely perfect!

From what you've been saying I reckon you might need more than half a litre ?

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  • 6 months later...

Went to look at this today with a view to actually doing something with it, and it's developed the most odd fault:

When you turn the ignition on, the starter motor immediately engages and will not stop.  So the engine starts, and you can hear the starter still spinning away with it's one-way clutch meaning the engine isn't driving it round.  The starter stays engaged the whole time the ignition is on.  Turn the ignition off and the engine stops, and so does the starter motor.

Is there a starter motor additional relay somewhere that's possibly jammed on?

Beginning to think I should just fuck this off for whatever I can get for it.

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Ahhh the beginning of the dreaded D2 phantom electric Tom foolery. Friend of mine had a D2 and it locked his kids in the car on a hot summers day with the keys in the ignition. Had to call the RAC out or AA can’t remember. Ended up putting a window through. D2 electrics are shit. 

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On 4/15/2020 at 2:45 PM, garbaldy said:

I just sold an off road prepped one with mot till December for £450 shame you handnt of seen it as the chassis was very good on it plus it had loads of new parts on it you could have robbed for yours. 

20200326_100505.jpg

This landrover 90 chassis cost me £350 plus vat to get galvanised last year.

What's going on with that exhaust?

 

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  • 5 months later...

Thread exhumation:

Had another look at this today.  A leaky sunroof has made the interior go a bit mouldy, and now the starter won't engage at all.  You can bypass the starter relay and the engine will run for about 5 seconds, then turns off.  I'm done with this now and just need it gone.

It's £300 if anyone want it.  I know no-one will, but it's good to offer things here before they go to breakers/scrap/wherever.

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Bang it on ebay ?

You'll get a lot more than £300.

The lack of Ommph sounds similar to what my Defender had, this was cured by cleaning out the ECU plug, new injector harness AND freeing off the waste gate.

Pop up some pictures of the wee beast, and see if it tickles anyone's fancy ?

Sadly I'm out of space, but these are cracking cars when working well.

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