Jump to content

Phil's 1977 Princess 1.8 HL - Time to Say Goodbye


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, 406V6 said:

[Anorak mode] I remember it being launched in 1975 and Wikipedia says  26 March 1975. This was as the 18/22 series, not a Princess.  It was relaunched as the Princess in September 1975.

I remember a neighbour had an early one, I seem to remember it being a Morris 1800, it had perforated vinyl seats and a Webasto vinyl sunroof, it had the raised bonnet around the grill, like the Wolseley version which later become the HLS.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ve been reading though this thread & it’s been interesting so far.

Ive had a soft spot for the wedges, probably because they were a common site when I was young & there weren’t many other cars like them.

Has it been added to the wedgister yet?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the offer of the corner pieces - window seals might be moving up the list, I think it's been kept outside for the last 12 months and today I have discovered some dampness in the carpets, underlay and dashboard soundproofing.  The window seals are completely perished on the side windows and windscreen so definitely not watertight any more.  It's been drying out today with the floor mats out (original rubber BL mats!) after I spritzed vinegar solution over the interior to try and kill the mould, I'll keep leaving the windows open during the day for this week while it's warm and dry outside, plan is to hoik the seats and carpets out at the weekend.

I've just ordered a few treats for it - oil, filters and some new fuel line and filters plus some spark plugs, it's running well considering it's 28 years overdue for a service but I think it's earned a bit of TLC.

I've found a couple of rot holes around the driver's side rear light - pretty typical for these I seem to recall - we'll see what the floors look like once the carpets are out.

@richard_fm yes it is on there, I think @vulgalour spotted it when it first got dredged out of its barn and put on eBay as a non-runner last year.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

duct+tape.+tags+say+all_5368a3_3941242.j

Rear screen seals tend to be fairly robust, front ones not so much.  www.leylandprincess.co.uk do I believe still have some brand new (not NOS) seals available to purchase for about £100, and my also have a rear screen seal.  At the rear, it tends to be the upper rail and the lower corners of the surround that rot out and let water in, up front it tends to be the seal going porous and the lower corners of the surround and/or a-pillars rotting out that lets the water in.   If it's leaking around the rear light clusters it might just be that the foam has dried out, @KruJoe's yoga mat and vaseline solution is a good fix for this.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes I need to get a new roll of that - this car is definitely going to be seeing some duct tape in a few choice locations, temporarily* at least.  If that fails I've got an industrial-sized can of expanding foam, a fresh tube of no more nails and some leftover Isopon in the garage somewhere as well.

There's so much leaf mould and general filth in every gap and crevice - particularly the scuttle panel  - that a thorough wash will be needed before I can identify where water might be getting in.  Fortunately it doesn't seem to be soaking wet inside, only mildly damp so with any luck it's not too bad. 

  

Link to post
Share on other sites

The drains at the edges of the scuttle area are rubbish and clog up with leaves and crap really easily.  If those are blocked and the water is overflowing in through the fresh air vent it wouldn't take much to get the interior all damp.  I bet the bottom couple of inches of the wing is packed with mud too, worth prising out the arch liners to clear that lot out too, shouldn't need to remove the liners fully.  Also, apologies if anything I'm mentioning is stuff you already know, do feel free to tell me to shut up.

Link to post
Share on other sites
46 minutes ago, phil_lihp said:

Yes I need to get a new roll of that - this car is definitely going to be seeing some duct tape in a few choice locations, temporarily* at least.  If that fails I've got an industrial-sized can of expanding foam, a fresh tube of no more nails and some leftover Isopon in the garage somewhere as well.

That's the way to do it.  Fix it up with whatever you've got lying around, where possible.

MoT exemption is a joyous thing!

Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, vulgalour said:

The drains at the edges of the scuttle area are rubbish and clog up with leaves and crap really easily.  If those are blocked and the water is overflowing in through the fresh air vent it wouldn't take much to get the interior all damp.  I bet the bottom couple of inches of the wing is packed with mud too, worth prising out the arch liners to clear that lot out too, shouldn't need to remove the liners fully.  Also, apologies if anything I'm mentioning is stuff you already know, do feel free to tell me to shut up.

I know very little - all advice gratefully received!  

What's the procedure with pumping these up?  Someone on the twitters has suggested buying a pump off eBay - I think he might be on here actually.  Will cost about £100 overall which is cheaper than getting the local place I found to do all four corners based on their quote.

@RobT There will be some element of "that'll do" I suspect, predominantly on the cosmetic elements.  Bodywork is not my forte and I would rather have a tatty but well-sorted car than the reverse.  Besides, what better philosophy for owning a mid-70s BL product?

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you're being charged the equivalent of buying a pump to have your suspension inflated I should hope that includes the full vacuum and flush service as well.  Really, you just want a top up for now to find out what's amiss, so that's a case of hooking up a pump and pumping some fresh fluid in to get it up to height and then see what happens.

If it's all healthy after that, you need to get the old fluid vacuumed out, you then flush with something like purple methylated spirit a couple of times to clean it all up (the old fluid will likely be brown by now), and then reinflate with fresh fluid to the requisite height/pressure.  If someone is charging you £100+ for a top up tell them to jog on.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Superb find and the same colour velour as in my dads green 1800HL. I loved it but he hated it with a passion, declaring everything forward of the windscreen was hopeless. 

Having watched DW most recent video about the Twin Cam B series MGA it would be hilarious to see of those in a Wedge. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, vulgalour said:

If you're being charged the equivalent of buying a pump to have your suspension inflated I should hope that includes the full vacuum and flush service as well.  Really, you just want a top up for now to find out what's amiss, so that's a case of hooking up a pump and pumping some fresh fluid in to get it up to height and then see what happens.

If it's all healthy after that, you need to get the old fluid vacuumed out, you then flush with something like purple methylated spirit a couple of times to clean it all up (the old fluid will likely be brown by now), and then reinflate with fresh fluid to the requisite height/pressure.  If someone is charging you £100+ for a top up tell them to jog on.

Noted, my usual tame mechanic says he has one squirelled away somewhere so will see if he can lay his hands on it before I go buying one myself.  I am not surprised the garage in question are charging too much to be honest but tricky to know what represents good value with nothing else to compare it to, the above feedback is much appreciated.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Christ! £100 for a recharge!

I have an original Churchill dalek at work and have done a few wet mini's and a couple of rover metros  and i dont think i even charged as much as thay for a drain, flush vacuum and recharge.

Like you said though, it's difficult to know what to compare it to as there is so little call for it these days.

Ok just charge for how long it takes plus the fluid. It really doesn't take long.

 

Love your saggy brown wedge btw!

Link to post
Share on other sites

My mechanic charges £20 for a basic pump up.  So yeah, robbing fuggers that lot if they're charging £100 for the equivalent.

Edit: the last time I had the Metro done it took 10 minutes.  Most of that was me agonising about the correct ride height.  Les told me "You're a fussy bugger, aren't you!".  He also told me it's better to have them under than over pumped, which I've found to be true.  The Morris is too high at the rear and tends to top out and thud over humps.  I'll try lobbing a sand bag in the back or something to see if that helps even things out.

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Asimo said:

Every B-Series I've ever driven has run-on. Soon becomes second nature to pop it into top gear and gently stall it the moment you switch the ignition to off.

This. (Noting that I’ve only ever owned one B-series car.)

Has the Princess got two carbs? Balancing them used to reduce the running on slightly on my BGT. Sometimes for as much as a whole day.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Who wants Princess updates?  I do!

I had a full day on this yesterday - hooray for decent weather.  I started by fitting some of the parts I had ordered a while back - it now sports a shiny new rotor arm, distributor cap and plug leads.  I also refitted the air filter assembly which was in the passenger footwell and put a NOS air filter in it.

20200516_181058.thumb.jpg.a2acc4808cf9a103be07d7fed2293d94.jpg

The end result is that it doesn't really run any differently - fear not, I am going to keep hold of the old items even though they're ancient and a bit crusty, they did work and I am aware that modern components often are not the same quality as older stuff.  I still need to change the plugs and the oil - still waiting on some deliveries - and fit the correct mechanical fuel pump.  The electric one obviously does the job but I don't like it, it constantly runs when the ignition is on as you can hear it ticking and I have noticed a smell of petrol when it's running, I wonder if it's overfuelling the engine.

I then left it ticking over for a few minutes while I got ready for the next step and went inside the house for a minute.  I came back out and was concerned to noticed a bit of steam coming out from under the bonnet - this turned to mild panic when I realised it was not steam, it was smoke and there was a strong smell of burning.  I turned off the engine and opened the bonnet to be greeted with a smoking engine block - very odd, smoke was coming from the valve gasket and various other joints and the engine block was obviously extremely hot.  I then noticed the top radiator hose had a big split in it - however the header tank is still full of green coolant.  The engine block remained sizzling hot for several minutes afterwards, when I was washing all the leaves and muck out from the engine bay any water drops that hit the block sizzled.  I made sure not to spray any water on it to avoid any risk of cracking.

Fortunately it doesn't seem to have done it any harm (actually it's not running on so much any more so I think it's de-coked itself somewhat!) and it still runs as it did before with no horrible noises, smells or smoke, although I've only run it long enough to put it back off the road onto my driveway.  Having investigated, I think the waterpump has failed, it turns really easily by hand with no real resistance.  This might explain why the engine coolant temp gauge stayed in the middle despite it clearly being very hot.  I have a new waterpump to go on, that's now become a priority and I have ordered a set of new hoses and a thermostat as well, I don't want that to happen again.  It'll get a thorough flush through with detergent while I have it apart.  The cooling fan also did not appear to kick in and the seller did say it had stopped working, I have a video from last year of the car running and the fan was working then but that could be because there was no water in the top radiator hose, the sensor appears to be in the top of the radiator.  

Drama over, I then emptied all the detritus out of the boot - including what I think is a pair of Sierra wing mirrors (they'll be going on eBay unless anyone here wants them) and set to trying to clean 28 years of ground in filth off the paintwork.  I chose to use some very specialised detailing equipment for this first pass so I gathered up a bucket, an old sponge, a dustpan brush and some washing up liquid and got to work.  After that, I used some cutting polish and wax to see what I was left with.  The end result is...ummm...better?  It will need another couple of washes and I will dig out my clay towel to see if that helps, the paint is still rough and did not take the polish well.

20200516_142020.thumb.jpg.fe06f88c318398e1feec43705f4da2d0.jpg

I then made a bold decision and ripped off the tattered remains of the vinyl on the C pillars - it was ripped to pieces and was acting as a moisture trap to let water in but not out, so I was not surprised to find this - which actually looked a lot less terrifying after rubbing it down with a wire brush and applying vactan,

20200516_142200.thumb.jpg.cd406a1cacaae85a6fdb22590d2e124c.jpg20200516_141957.thumb.jpg.7d3765bf3a4d92fd90cc1c170b6d3690.jpg20200516_141941.thumb.jpg.928e286c139b7a546959d9d868c8b084.jpg

It wasn't a surprise to be honest, I could feel crunchy stuff behind the vinyl, could have been a lot worse.  I will contact a local bodyshop who have previously fixed some rust on the Rover 220SLi for me to see if they will do it.  Depending on how well the repair can be done I may or may not re-vinyl the pillars, not sure yet.  The bootlid might be saveable but it's crusty (although solid) along its bottom inner edge so I doubt it is worth the investment.  For now, some gaffer tape will suffice to keep the rain off it temporarily.  I covered every rusty scab I could find in vactan and the end result of all this skilled restoration work is that it looks slightly less horrible...the vactan had the unexpected reaction of acting like a coat of varnish so after getting as much loose paint off the bonnet as I could, I ended up covering the whole panel in it.  It has at least made it look the same colour as the paint.

20200516_180226.thumb.jpg.ad98d39cc2f1cb5993ecbae4de701236.jpg20200516_180246.thumb.jpg.c4d08a4b25fc43063d1ee39917ff3f8b.jpg

This rear door is too far gone, the bottom of it is missing entirely so I will keep my eye out for a replacement.  There's some holes under the front valance and around the rear lights but overall it isn't too bad.

20200516_142116.thumb.jpg.07788bc5797eb29dcfee742c80aa8dbb.jpg

Last job of the day, which took forever, was hoiking out the interior so the soaking wet underlay and damp carpets could be allowed to dry properly.  I found one nasty rust hole in the passenger side floor/sill area but it doesn't look hard to repair, the rest of it is thankfully solid.  @vulgalour was dead right, the scuttle panel was an inch deep in leaf mould and other debris, once that was all scooped out and flushed through with a hosepipe water ran straight down through the back of the wings so the drains are now clear.  With the carpets out I can experiment at some point to see if water's getting in anywhere else.

The carpet smells grim and is pretty mouldy, the fibres are matted down hard in a lot of places so I don't know if it's saveable.  I will experiment at some point with ways to clean it up, I would like to save it if I can.  I refitted the driver's seat so I can move the car around.

20200516_162917.thumb.jpg.29446021ea6ff6eb28c545a81381ff4b.jpg

20200516_173319.thumb.jpg.74f7a847bade26cc78bbebe21a3545d1.jpg

Under the back seat I found some slightly damp reciepts and garage bills from the 80s which I'll add to the service history, including one for a suspension regas in the 80s, plus these nostalgic items.  I am not opening the tin for any amount of money, the best before date is 1994.

20200516_154803.thumb.jpg.3112b0071e5e1bbbbbc2adb1ffa4d2bb.jpg 20200516_154034.thumb.jpg.e5d937b331875ed4411a1e658aa1f120.jpg

Today I tried to find out why the hazards work but the indicators don't - my Haynes manual says they use the same relay but I don't think they do.  There's a confusion of extra wiring for the aftermarket radio and a tow bar (which I may reinstate as it's all still with the car) under the dash which is not helping, I found that there's a couple of small square relays up behind the steering column which click when the hazards are on, nothing happens with the indicators at all so I suspect this flasher relay - which is hanging loose and had a blue wire out of it which I reattached to no avail.

20200517_114259.thumb.jpg.8003ce55172385617e24db0816c025f3.jpg

I am, for now, assuming that the indicator stalk is OK as the main beam selector and horn both work.  Still working my head around it, wiring is not my forte but I am learning slowly.  I will try applying power to that relay and see if it responds - it must be something like that as they did work a year ago.

Next steps are to decide what to do with the interior, change the oil when the filter turns up next week and find someone local who can patch up the holes without costing a fortune.  There's a nice new set of plugs on the way too, once that and the cooling system are as good as they can be I can see if any work needs to be done with the carb.  Oh, and while it's up on ramps for the oil change I need to find out where the exhaust is blowing.  Oh and get the suspension raised up.  And clean it a bit more.  

Oh, and drive it!

20200516_142106.jpg

20200516_142206.jpg

20200516_145115.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

My waterpump theory is partly due to the fact that although the header tank is brim full of coolant, the split radiator hose didn't spill any water at all so it does not seem to be circulating.  I have also noticed that it's been split all along, I can see it in the first photos I put up, not sure how I missed that.  I prised the hoses off the thermostat housing and they're clear, the thermostat itself looks fairly clean and there's no sign of any blockages.  It looks like it has been flushed through but I will do it again and change all the bits that are suspect.

Link to post
Share on other sites

At least with an old iron block engine like a B series overheating shouldn’t have caused terminal issues. 

The rust closest to the rear side windows on the C pillars looks to have been caused mainly by the ‘Princess’ badges that were (or should have been) there. One of the holes in the N/S Pic looks like one of their mounting points. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • phil_lihp changed the title to Phil's 1977 Princess 1.8 HL - Time to Say Goodbye

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

    • By captain_70s
      Hullo,
       
      I'm a masochist from Leeds who is running two rusty, worn out Triumph Dolomites as my only transport in rural Aberdeenshire. You might recognise me from various other forums and Facebook groups. Realistically I need to buy a modern car of some sort, but instead I find myself looking at £300 Citroen BXs and Triumph Acclaims on Gumtree and thinking "yeah, that'd fit right in with the rest of the broken cars I can't afford".
       
      On to the cars, the main attraction being my 1976 1850HL "50 Shades of Yellow" that I bought for £850 and is currently my daily driver, here is a picture of it before I sanded off some surface rust and sprayed it badly in the wrong shade of yellow with rattle cans:
       

       
      Within a month of purchase I managed to plant it in to a steel fence backwards after a botched gear change on a wet roundabout and ruined the N/S rear wing, although judging by the other dent that's packed with filler it looks like somebody had already done the same. I also managed to destroy a halfshaft and one of my Sprint alloys (good for an extra 15hp) in the incident, so now it's sitting on it's original steelies but painted black (good for an extra 5hp).
       
      It's only broken down on me twice. once with some sort of fuel delivery related problem which may or may not have been an empty fuel tank and once when the thermostat jammed shut and it overheated and blew out some O-rings for the cooling system. It has recently developed a taste for coolant and oil which is rather annoying, although it's done 89,300 miles which is about 80,000 more miles than BL engineering is designed to last, I'm keeping my eye on eBay for replacement engines... 
      I tried to keep ahead of the rust a bit by rubbing down the arches and re-painting them, but apparently rattle can paint isn't great when you are spraying it at -5C, it also highlighted how although my car might have been Inca Yellow in 1976 it's now more of a "cat piss" sort of shade. So I ended up with the wrong shade of yellow which has rust coming back through after 5 weeks. Did I mention I'm incompetent?
       
      The other car is the first "classic" car I bought, so I can't bear to sell it. It's a '77 Dolomite 1300 and it cost £1400 (about £400 too much) and has been nothing but a pain in the arse:
       

       
      It looks much prettier (from 100 yards) but that's most due to the darker paintwork hiding the rust. It lives a mollycoddled life in my garage, where it somehow still manages to rust, and is utterly rubbish. 0-60 is measured on a calendar, top speed is 80ish but at that point it uses more oil than petrol, it rarely ventures over 50mph and if you encounter an incline of any sort you can kiss that sort of speed goodbye, along with about £20 of 20W50 as it vanishes out of the exhaust in the form of blue smoke.
       
      One of the PO's had clearly never heard of the term "oil change" so it developed into brown sludge that coated everything internally with the next owner(s) blissfully pouring fresh oil on top of it. This lasted until about 600 miles into my ownership when there was muffled "pop" from the engine bay and the car became a 3-cylinder. The cause was catastrophic wear to the top end causing a rocker arm to snap:
       

       
      As this was my first classic car I'd assumed it was supposed to sound like the engine was full of marbles, it wasn't.
       
      I put the engine back together with second hand bits declared it utterly fucked and promptly did another 5000 miles with it. After about 3500 of those miles the oil burning started, valve seals have gone so it's been relegated to my parent's garage as a backup car and something to take to local car shows as the 1850 is now embarrassingly ugly. I'm keeping my eye on eBay for replacement engines (deja vu, anybody?) Oh, I also recently reversed it into a parked Ford Fiesta and royally fucked up the rear bumper, rear panel and bootlid. Did I mention I'm incompetent?
       
      There have been two other cars in my life. My first car, a 2008 Toyota Yaris 1.0 an it's replacement a 2012 Corsa 1.4T. I didn't really want either of them, but it's a long story involving my parents and poor life choices. Ask if you want to hear it!
       
      So that's a brief summary of my current shite. If you want more pictures or details of anything do say as I've got photos of almost everything I'd done with the cars.
    • By Shirley Knott
      Greetings all.
       
      After lurking here for a short while, frankly liking what I see and enjoying the various shite, the site has well and truly struck a chord with me. I'm a serial buyer of ropey sub £1k vehicles, don't have to but genuinely enjoy it.
       
      I feel like I might (Just might) have found my 'spiritual' home here
       
      I've been posting across the web on owner specific forums (Usually using either my JoeyEunos or RandomPrecion handles) for a while now, but from here-on-in I will pull my threads together and merge them here into one ghastly topic.
       
      My current steeds...
       
      Lupo 1.7 SDI
       
      SAM_5560 by
       
      and the work/story so far...http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/102863-joeyeunoss-sdi-beater/
       
      Golf Mk4 SDI
       
       
      SAM_5531 by
       
      and the thread.... http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/597074-project-slow/
       
      Early (1989) Mk1 Eunos (This one was recently sold)
       
      SAM_4656 by
       
      the thread...http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=213274
       
      Other shite I've owned and moved on in the last year include this ropey Passat...
       
      SAM_6011 by
       
      and this legendary £300 Fiesta Finesse...
       
      Festa by
       
      Cars I'd like to own/actively looking for in the forthcoming weeks/months/years...
       
      Rover 75 (Dizzler)
      Peugeot 405 (XUD)
      Mk1 Octavia (Estate/dizzler, pre pd or SDI)
      Honda CRV (Gen1)
      Volvo 240/850
    • By SiC
      Placeholder topic for now. Currently in @Steve79 mums garage but hopefully transported sometime this month. Mostly down to when @worldofceri passes by next. No rush as I have plenty of other projects on the go, just with Spring coming up quick, I'm looking forward to buzzing around in this. So don't expect anything too exciting to happen for a few weeks yet.
      I was hoping the Dolomite would be drivable by now but that's not looking likely. So I'll have to either do the work on this on the drive, cart the Dolomite down to storage over spring/summer or send this off to a professional for it to be sorted. It'll need an MOT anyway, but I'd like to get some of the key things sorted before then.
      Main issues for the MOT:
      Dash clocks don't work. Battery has leaked in the original board and damaged the traces. Have another set of dash clocks here and I hope to make a good one out of the two. Something I'll definitely have to do as most mechanics won't want to touch soldering up PCBs. Brake pedal doesn't fully go to the top of its travel, unless you assist it by pulling it up. I believe the Rev mentioned corrosion at the top of the pedal or something that just needs cleaning odd. Cambelt. This one scares me everytime the engine is started. Label under the bonnet says last changed in 1998 and that's almost certainly true. Steve has done a few hundred miles on it two years ago, but I don't have the guts or will to do a cambelt roulette myself on it. Plus I don't believe they're that difficult to change. Possibly needs some welding on the NSF. I'll clean the area up and if it's small I may do it myself. Alternatively let my local garage pickup on it at MOT time and let them sort it if it's a problem. So hopefully a quick project to get back on the road. That's the intention anyway as I don't have time for too much more, given the Dolomite is taking my time up and the others need fettling too (1100 front calipers and also selling it, MGB service). Likely scenario is getting the above list done so I can drive it to the MOT station and let them sort anything else out needed for that if anything other comes up.

    • By Zelandeth
      Well I've been meaning to sign up here in forever, but kept forgetting. Thanks to someone over on another forum I frequent poking me about it recently the subject was forced back into my very brief attention span for long enough to get me to act on the instruction.

      I figure that my little varied fleet might bring you lot some amusement...

      So...we've got:

      1993 Lada Riva 1.5E Estate (now fuel injected, as I reckon the later cars should have been from the factory...).
      1989 Saab 900i Automatic.
      1987 Skoda 120LX 21st Anniversary Special Edition.
      1985 Sinclair C5.
      2009 Peugeot 107 Verve.

      Now getting the photos together has taken me far longer than I'd expected...so you're gonna get a couple of photos of each car for now, and I'll come back with some more information tomorrow when I've got a bit more time...

      Firstly...The Lada. Before anyone asks - in response to the single question I get asked about this car: No, it is not for sale. Took me 13 years and my father's inheritance to find the thing.


      Yes, it's got the usual rusty wings...Hoping that will be resolved in the next couple of months.

       






      Next, a proper old Saab. One of the very last 8 valve cars apparently, and all the better for it. I've driven two 16v autos and they were horrible - the auto box works sooooo much better with the torque curve of the 8 valve engine. Just wish it had an overdrive for motorway cruising...









      Next up a *real* Skoda...back when they put the engine where it belongs, right out the back. In the best possible colour of course...eye-searingly bright orange.







      Seat covers have been added since that photo was taken as it suffers from the usual rotting seat cloth problem that affects virtually all Estelles.

      Then we have possibly the world's scruffiest Sinclair C5...



      Realised when looking for this that I really need to get some more photos of the thing...I use it often enough after all! We have a dog who's half husky, so this is a really good way of getting him some exercise.

      Finally - again, I really need to take more photos of - we have the little Pug 107.



      Included for the sake of variety even if it's a bit mainstream! First (and probably to be the only) new car I've bought, and has been a cracking little motor and has asked for very little in return for putting up with nearly three years of Oxford-Milton Keynes commuter traffic, before finally escaping that fate when my housemate moved to a new job. Now it doesn't do many miles and is my default car for "when I've managed to break everything else."

      I'll fill in some more details tomorrow - I warn you though that I do tend to ramble...
    • By mk2_craig
      Folks.  I don't care that the subject matter of this thread is, relatively-speaking, basically a new car.  I'm calling it shite and anybody who disagrees after letting the pictures do the talking can vanish off up their own arse as far as I'm concerned.
      With that out the way, here's the first bit of the tale.  I'll be brief.  Up until last August my wife was running this Astra Twintop of 2007 vintage.  Luxurious with the top spec "Design" trim level complete with comedy useless early built-in satnav tech, quick with the 2 litre Turbo motor.  Just about 34k on the clock at that point, and it had been treated to four new tyres the previous month.  Drove lovely.

      She then decides that a Mini convertible would be the way to go.  Here's the newest one she could find within budget :

      R57, registered mid 2010, Cooper S with the 1.6 turbo engine.  Looks alright eh?  




      Ok, it has some wheel and tyre-related issues.



      Admittedly, some perished rubber seals would want dealing with.



      Granted, those wipers are shagged.

      And those shitty, SHITTY "Cooper script" decals are way past their best, as are the faded and peeling bonnet stripes.


      Chunk missing outa that A-pillar trim, and what about that aerial?

      Oh.


      Someones only gone and nicked the COOPER S badges, but at least the bodywork's tidy, right?












      Hmmm.  Well, at least it still has a full set of locking nuts, doesn't it?




      OH COME ON!!!!

      So the background is that one of our local Polish car traders took it in as a part-ex against something better.  Usually he would smarten it up to punt on at a nice profit, but with his bodyshop man out of action he wanted this one off the books pronto and put it up for a couple of grand below the going rate.  I think most on here would have probably recommended walking away as rapidly as possible, but I can only conclude that I was high that day, because apparently we agreed a deal in which he took the Astra PLUS CASH against this tatty BINI.   Therefore it's been on fleet strength for the last seven and a half months.
      WCPGW??
×
×
  • Create New...