Jump to content

Phil's 1977 Princess 1.8 HL - Time to Say Goodbye


Recommended Posts

The 1700 is great when you're on your own and you've a run up at stuff.  Pack 5 people in the car and try and go up hills in the Yorkshire Dales, not so much.  Lots of gear changes, which is pretty hard work.  Though, to be fair, when I did that my brakes, clutch, and most of my car was pretty much fucked and I was too stubborn to admit it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I too have a Haynes manual for a Princess - for a B-Series Princess/18-22 series.

I'm in New Zealand (And I'd like to keep the manual as I have distant hopes of owning a Princess someday) but I can send you photos of any chapters or sections from the manual if you like! Feel feel to drop me a message. 

This looks like a top-notch project.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Blimey Phil, there's a blast from the past, how are you?  I didn't know you were back in the area, yes you'd be more than welcome to come and have a poke at it when it lands, I'm still in Barnstaple.

Thanks for the offers of manuals etc guys - I'll see what I can get my hands on in the next few weeks but if I get stuck I'll let you know.

I think the only way to settle this 1800 B vs 1700 O argument is on the drag strip.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mechanically, the engine is different between 1 and 2, exhaust downpipe, and possibly the clutch.  Brakes, suspension, power steering, radiator are all the same.  Electrically they're pretty much identical with some minor differences like the location of the aerial requiring a longer wire on the 1 than the 2.  Cosmetically there's quite a bit of trim differences, different badges, dashboard insert, steering wheel pad, centre console, but it's all interchangable anyway if you're not fussed about originality.  They did another even more minor facelift for the very last Princesses like OKK where they changed the badges and door mirrors and little else, and then the Ambassador happened.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Phil, it's better than nothing - I can always find a seperate manual for the engine if I need one, bound to be plenty of those about if I need one.  I had the same issue when I had the Rover 220SLi, Haynes only covered the 1.6 & 1.8 models but it was good enough for most things.

I am purely guessing at this stage until I see it and drive it but I strongly suspect it is going to need some work on brakes, fuel system and carb - I will be able to put into practice all that I have learned* from watching Mustie1 videos on Youtube with a carb strip down, clean and rebuild.  

I'll speak to the seller in more detail and find out precisely what he's done to put it back on the road - I know from the ad it has new tyres, new front brake calipers and rear cylinders, new copper brake lines, a new electric fuel pump and a few others bits but likely needs a bit of general TLC everywhere and a bloody good service.  The ignition system look a bit fossilised but I can't see a tremendous amount of evidence of oil leaks which is good - although once some miles go on it I expect that to no longer be the case.  I also spot a possible scotch block on the fuel pump wiring, that will be going in the bin!

s-l1600.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, philibusmo said:

The manual I have only covers the Princess 2 (so the 1.7 and 2.0, so potentially not a huge lot of use too you, although I don't think much that wasn't superficial changed in them other than the engines over the years unless anyone else knows better.

Still got the Fiesta, I see!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Normally an in-tank electric fuel pump on these, they do fail.  The pump itself is the same as SD1 but the sender is either unique, or shared only with the Maxi (I've had conflicting info on that), so if you do want to go back to original there it's best to just replace the pump if you can get away with it.  However, a word of warning on removing the in-tank pump and sender is that the locking ring doesn't sometimes and it leaks afterwards.  It is a generic part of the tank at least, being shared with the Series Landrovers, but it's a faff to sort (everything is a faff to sort).  A beefier or secondary earth strap is a good idea too, these cars do suffer from earth problems when they've been stood a while and the braided earth strap isn't the best.  Brakes probably need bleeding properly, the fronts have a particular sequence to do it properly, there's 3 bleed nipples on each caliper, if you do it wrong it gets air stuck in them and you get a spongey or bouncy pedal and not much braking effort.

Expect an oil leak from the filler cap and the rocker cover, both easily replaced since it's shared with MG B.  In fact, if you're struggling to find engine bits then search for MG B stuff and you'll usually find it fairly cheaply, it's one of the big advantages of the B series in the Princess over the O series.  Radiators silt up too and are worth removing for a proper flush, replacements aren't readily available and they're an odd size so there's not really an off-the-shelf option.  They are all metal though, so they can be repaired by any reputable radiator repair type place.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

While I wait for lockdown to lift enough to get this one home, I've been stocking up on cheap parts on eBay.   I've landed a NOS fuel pump, some ignition components and a couple of other bits and at the same time treated myself to some quality literature.  The brochure is from 1977, the same year my car was made and the Haynes is from 1976 so it's a perfect match.

IMG-20200427-WA0002.thumb.jpeg.87137d424d36b88c537be506a6c9d98e.jpeg  IMG-20200427-WA0000.thumb.jpeg.def3421c72cefb363b2c41670f1a339d.jpeg

I find the wording quite odd here - seems like a classic BL move to actively highlight what kit it hasn't got.

20200427_150107.thumb.jpg.30d4c424c910af6b855d80bc8bd677e9.jpg

 

IMG-20200427-WA0004.thumb.jpeg.0098279f19ed168299018e478ddeb620.jpeg

 

IMG-20200427-WA0006.thumb.jpeg.530eeefd3408019c432bc274d930bc07.jpeg

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, the biggest job now is a bit of bodywork, we shall see how bad it is.  Short term might involve some gentle bodgery!

I have since found out a bit more about it, it'd been off the road since 1992 in a dry barn/lean to and was woken up last year.  I have a video of it running and it seems to be in rude health all things considered.

Collection may happen soon, I've held off as the principle of it bothered me, it really isn't important and the seller's in no rush, as has been pointed out though it will give someone work and income, I've got some quotes in.  Ordinarily I'd drive it home but as it's several hundred miles and the seller's advised against it, given the current restrictions as well it doesn't make sense.  It developed some electrical issues which he was going to investigate, the headlights and radiator fan stopped working and we both suspect a bad earth somewhere.

I now have a NOS fuel pump and water pump in my possession, so far it would appear that parts for this car are dirt cheap and easily available which is marvellous.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/7/2020 at 10:52 PM, Mr_Bo11ox said:

Yeah but come on it was still a stinker. Thrashy and gutless, specially in a wedge. At least you could stick the 1.8 B series in top at 15mph and then forget about gear changes for the rest of the day, and it was fine with that. 1.7 Ambassadors are dire.

I remember towing a BL1300 on a 2-wheel car trailer behind my Ambassador 1.7 when I was about 18. I set off up this hill near Hadrians wall, I didnt have much of a run-up, and got about 1/4 of the way up then just ran out of steam. It just could not pull the trailer up the hill. Even in 1st gear. i was completely stuck. I had to give up, leave the 'rig' half blocking the road up and and ask a local farmer to help me out of the shit.

That is why my Dad fitted the Leyland Special Tuning Kit, he reckoned in standard form the 78 Princess 1800 “wouldn’t pull the skin off a rice pudding”

I thought it was great, i’d Got a ‘go fast Dad’

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's great until the pipes rot out, which many do, which is why mine are individualised now.  Handles better, doesn't ride as smooth.  If you fancy a carpet, I've got one in orange.  It's not perfect, but is very servicable.  Free if you can make use of it, at the very least it's a good pattern for making a new one.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Well look what the Transit dragged in...

20200512_171728.thumb.jpg.985ea8c477299a9377e65d66917cdaa6.jpg

I found a transporter on Shiply who not only brought it to me for less than it would have cost to go and get it myself - factoring in rental of a van and trailer etc - but also arrived a day early and stayed in regular contact throughout.  Top bloke.  All done safely and at a distance and I wiped down the handles, wheel etc afterwards as well just in case.

First impressions are...it's way more solid than I could have hoped for - there's some holes in the lower front valance and the top of the bootlid plus the bottom of one rear door and that's about it so far, although the tattered vinyl on the C posts is hiding uncertain amounts of crispiness which will have to be unearthed soon.  Sure I'll find a few more scabby bits before the week's out but the underside is slathered in underseal and it has done its job.  The 1800 lump looks horrible but runs surprisingly well in a noisy, slightly flatulent sort of way, starts easily enough with a bit of choke and there's no horrible noises.  I am certain the car's not been cleaned since some time before it was parked up in 1992, inside or out; the outside is dusty, stained and a bit green.  The interior mostly consists of dust and mould.

It's really quite marvellous.  I have had a quick pootle up and down my road in it but until I've sorted out what it might need in the way of oil, coolant and petrol it won't be going very far.  That said, it drives OK - or at least, it goes in a straight line, the gears function and the brakes work.  Pretty much as it was in 1977 really.

My to-do list is quite short for now but likely to grow every time I walk past it.

- wash it and polish the bits that still have paint on them
- clean the inside, seats and carpets out.  It's a nylon and vinyl biohazard
- find the wiring gremlin that is causing the lights, indicators and cooling fan not to work.
- sort the fuelling/carb issue that means it runs on pretty much forever until stalled when the ignition is turned off.  Probably also the reason why it pops and bangs on full throttle as well.
- get rid of the aftermarket fuel pump which has been "installed" with scotch locks and the rotten original fuel line, it works but it's not right and I don't trust it.  I have a NOS mechanical pump and will get some new lines and clips,  Might be related to the running-on issue.
- pump it up, don't you know, pump it up.  My tame mechanic has a hydragas pump hidden away which he's going to dig out for me.  It has a serious case of the hydrasags.
- the exhaust, which I'm told is a good one off another car, has a blown joint somewhere and is quite undignified.

As for less pressing items, the radio only produces parps and hisses, which is all very well but I'd like to get some LW tunes blasting out of my big crusty speaker so might have a poke at that and the bonnet struts, naturally, do not work.  One of them actually started spewing oil while the bonnet was propped up with a plank of wood.  Not sure on the bonnet's patinated finish - despite appearances it's very solid so I might just scrub off the loose paint and slap a coat of black or brown Rustoleum on it for now to keep it from deteriorating.  The noisy end will also get a full service including gearbox oil as the gearchange is somewhat challenging.  Will give the linkages a good lubing as well.

From photos I've seen and the evidence on the car, the barn/shed it was in had no door on it and the back of the car was somewhat more exposed to the elements than the rest of it.  Longer term will probably involve a replacement rear door and bootlid and some weldage on the front valance.  It desperately needs some new rubber window seals and if I were being picky I'd rather like a velour interior if I could find one - the dash top and parcel shelf need some new vinyl and the top of the back seat has disintegrated.   

I don't think I will be bored for a while with this one.  

20200512_182339.thumb.jpg.dc792360b884ce692cf5b31fad856c34.jpg20200512_183003.thumb.jpg.ae6e9a08059fc5b4b90e458fe22ffa8b.jpg20200512_182851.thumb.jpg.9a5f7e8c3abf47a411d19673408f116a.jpg20200512_182915.thumb.jpg.95a491ab38f306b7f57cbc122419727c.jpg20200512_182935.thumb.jpg.0db90e47c2e7db4b1643d720c9af581c.jpg20200512_175334.thumb.jpg.07cf0b92999e547adba937914614fef2.jpg20200512_174723.thumb.jpg.5a2c9f6cf508230346311cd8007e576c.jpg20200512_175528.thumb.jpg.406faa7d07384517068a90c7c86aa727.jpg20200512_175619.thumb.jpg.01f1ccdaa7c0d549774e62b85154ba42.jpg

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/12/2020 at 7:26 PM, phil_lihp said:

I don't think I will be bored for a while with this one.  

I don’t think any of us are going to be bored for a while with this one!

Cracking purchase. All looks very doable for a man of your calibre, and well worth it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you can make use, I've got a couple of bootlids going spare, one in white, one in metallic green.  They're not perfect, but they also don't have holes in them.  Happy to donate one to the cause if it's of use.  I've had a look in my stash and it looks like I'm all out of rubber seals, front light units, and parcel shelves.  The damaged bit on your dashboard between the top vents and windscreen is actually steel with textured paint or vinyl on, and it's removable from the car (if you're willing to dismantle the entire dashboard) so you just need to refinish that rather than replace it most likely.  It does look very solid where they don't normally, aside from the little bits you've already mentioned, door bottoms particularly look very good overall.  I do have at least some of the rear window chrome insert corner trims too, they're quite difficult to get hold of, not sure if I've got all four, I know I've got at least two.  Again, happy to donate to the cause if you're in need.

Link to post
Share on other sites

That's extremely kind of you, thanks.  I'll have a good poke around the bootlid at some point and see how bad it is, it might be repairable.  In the mean time I think it'll probably have to settle for a bit of duct tape to keep it watertight.  Fortunately the boot seems bone dry so it's not letting water in yet.

Tomorrow's job is likely to be spraying the interior in vinegar solution to get rid of the worst of the mould before I attack it with my long-suffering Dyson,

Oh, I do have the missing light lens incidentally, it fell off on the journey over and fortunately was sitting on the trailer.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well this is an interesting one, she needs an unleaded conversion!  Having been sat since 1992 this is probably the first time unleaded fuel has passed through the carb.

https://www.mginfo.co.uk/upgrades4mgs/Engines/unleaded_fuels.html

That is likely to be the run-on cause.  Nothing I need to worry about immediately but something to keep in mind.  Given the mileage I'm likely to do, a fresh set of plugs and some timing adjustment should be all it needs for now.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Also isn’t it quite an early one?Wheres the revbluejeans when you need him, he knew all about these early ones and helped rescue a few IIRC, back in the 90s when even pre prod ones would be cubed without a second thought.

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, phil_lihp said:

- pump it up, don't you know, pump it up.  My tame mechanic has a hydragas pump hidden away which he's going to dig out for me.  It has a serious case of the hydrasags.

@vulgalour is there an easy way of detecting if it's fluid loss or gas loss causing the sag?

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you need to pump it up to obscene pressure to get it to the correct height, it's gas loss.  If you pump it up to the usual pressure (400psi from memory) and it gets to the proper height of 14.5" from hub to arch lip and it then sinks, it's fluid loss.  Usually.

@HMC '73 is the oldest I know of, pre-production.  Princess release was in 1974 so while a '76 is early, and remarkable for that considering how few survive compared to how many were produced, it's not the earliest it could be.

While I'm here, a couple of shots from an older eBay ad when it was still in full barn find status.

WGK220R_7.thumb.jpg.f5d4eb8e4013c1361776ea6c1371df30.jpg

WGK220R_3.thumb.jpg.711da881215566059a1f6e648753083a.jpg

WGK220R_1.thumb.jpg.04f78ef04ba5addb7a82ddf8115eeb3c.jpg

It being partially stuffed into a barn is likely what's saved the thing.

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is fantastic, it looks very original. I am looking forward to following your progress on this and seeing it cleaned up and returned to a more dignified ride height although it looks rather good as it is. Metallic brown with tan interior is a great colour combination, I have two cars the same age as yours in a similar colour?. I am excited just looking at the pictures, it must have been great when it arrived after waiting so long!

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, vulgalour said:

'73 is the oldest I know of, pre-production.  Princess release was in 1974 so while a '76 is early, and remarkable for that considering how few survive compared to how many were produced, it's not the earliest it could be.

[Anorak mode] I remember it being launched in 1975 and Wikipedia says  26 March 1975. This was as the 18/22 series, not a Princess.  It was relaunched as the Princess in September 1975.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • phil_lihp changed the title to Phil's 1977 Princess 1.8 HL - Time to Say Goodbye

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

    • By captain_70s
      Hullo,
       
      I'm a masochist from Leeds who is running two rusty, worn out Triumph Dolomites as my only transport in rural Aberdeenshire. You might recognise me from various other forums and Facebook groups. Realistically I need to buy a modern car of some sort, but instead I find myself looking at £300 Citroen BXs and Triumph Acclaims on Gumtree and thinking "yeah, that'd fit right in with the rest of the broken cars I can't afford".
       
      On to the cars, the main attraction being my 1976 1850HL "50 Shades of Yellow" that I bought for £850 and is currently my daily driver, here is a picture of it before I sanded off some surface rust and sprayed it badly in the wrong shade of yellow with rattle cans:
       

       
      Within a month of purchase I managed to plant it in to a steel fence backwards after a botched gear change on a wet roundabout and ruined the N/S rear wing, although judging by the other dent that's packed with filler it looks like somebody had already done the same. I also managed to destroy a halfshaft and one of my Sprint alloys (good for an extra 15hp) in the incident, so now it's sitting on it's original steelies but painted black (good for an extra 5hp).
       
      It's only broken down on me twice. once with some sort of fuel delivery related problem which may or may not have been an empty fuel tank and once when the thermostat jammed shut and it overheated and blew out some O-rings for the cooling system. It has recently developed a taste for coolant and oil which is rather annoying, although it's done 89,300 miles which is about 80,000 more miles than BL engineering is designed to last, I'm keeping my eye on eBay for replacement engines... 
      I tried to keep ahead of the rust a bit by rubbing down the arches and re-painting them, but apparently rattle can paint isn't great when you are spraying it at -5C, it also highlighted how although my car might have been Inca Yellow in 1976 it's now more of a "cat piss" sort of shade. So I ended up with the wrong shade of yellow which has rust coming back through after 5 weeks. Did I mention I'm incompetent?
       
      The other car is the first "classic" car I bought, so I can't bear to sell it. It's a '77 Dolomite 1300 and it cost £1400 (about £400 too much) and has been nothing but a pain in the arse:
       

       
      It looks much prettier (from 100 yards) but that's most due to the darker paintwork hiding the rust. It lives a mollycoddled life in my garage, where it somehow still manages to rust, and is utterly rubbish. 0-60 is measured on a calendar, top speed is 80ish but at that point it uses more oil than petrol, it rarely ventures over 50mph and if you encounter an incline of any sort you can kiss that sort of speed goodbye, along with about £20 of 20W50 as it vanishes out of the exhaust in the form of blue smoke.
       
      One of the PO's had clearly never heard of the term "oil change" so it developed into brown sludge that coated everything internally with the next owner(s) blissfully pouring fresh oil on top of it. This lasted until about 600 miles into my ownership when there was muffled "pop" from the engine bay and the car became a 3-cylinder. The cause was catastrophic wear to the top end causing a rocker arm to snap:
       

       
      As this was my first classic car I'd assumed it was supposed to sound like the engine was full of marbles, it wasn't.
       
      I put the engine back together with second hand bits declared it utterly fucked and promptly did another 5000 miles with it. After about 3500 of those miles the oil burning started, valve seals have gone so it's been relegated to my parent's garage as a backup car and something to take to local car shows as the 1850 is now embarrassingly ugly. I'm keeping my eye on eBay for replacement engines (deja vu, anybody?) Oh, I also recently reversed it into a parked Ford Fiesta and royally fucked up the rear bumper, rear panel and bootlid. Did I mention I'm incompetent?
       
      There have been two other cars in my life. My first car, a 2008 Toyota Yaris 1.0 an it's replacement a 2012 Corsa 1.4T. I didn't really want either of them, but it's a long story involving my parents and poor life choices. Ask if you want to hear it!
       
      So that's a brief summary of my current shite. If you want more pictures or details of anything do say as I've got photos of almost everything I'd done with the cars.
    • By Shirley Knott
      Greetings all.
       
      After lurking here for a short while, frankly liking what I see and enjoying the various shite, the site has well and truly struck a chord with me. I'm a serial buyer of ropey sub £1k vehicles, don't have to but genuinely enjoy it.
       
      I feel like I might (Just might) have found my 'spiritual' home here
       
      I've been posting across the web on owner specific forums (Usually using either my JoeyEunos or RandomPrecion handles) for a while now, but from here-on-in I will pull my threads together and merge them here into one ghastly topic.
       
      My current steeds...
       
      Lupo 1.7 SDI
       
      SAM_5560 by
       
      and the work/story so far...http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/102863-joeyeunoss-sdi-beater/
       
      Golf Mk4 SDI
       
       
      SAM_5531 by
       
      and the thread.... http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/597074-project-slow/
       
      Early (1989) Mk1 Eunos (This one was recently sold)
       
      SAM_4656 by
       
      the thread...http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=213274
       
      Other shite I've owned and moved on in the last year include this ropey Passat...
       
      SAM_6011 by
       
      and this legendary £300 Fiesta Finesse...
       
      Festa by
       
      Cars I'd like to own/actively looking for in the forthcoming weeks/months/years...
       
      Rover 75 (Dizzler)
      Peugeot 405 (XUD)
      Mk1 Octavia (Estate/dizzler, pre pd or SDI)
      Honda CRV (Gen1)
      Volvo 240/850
    • By SiC
      Placeholder topic for now. Currently in @Steve79 mums garage but hopefully transported sometime this month. Mostly down to when @worldofceri passes by next. No rush as I have plenty of other projects on the go, just with Spring coming up quick, I'm looking forward to buzzing around in this. So don't expect anything too exciting to happen for a few weeks yet.
      I was hoping the Dolomite would be drivable by now but that's not looking likely. So I'll have to either do the work on this on the drive, cart the Dolomite down to storage over spring/summer or send this off to a professional for it to be sorted. It'll need an MOT anyway, but I'd like to get some of the key things sorted before then.
      Main issues for the MOT:
      Dash clocks don't work. Battery has leaked in the original board and damaged the traces. Have another set of dash clocks here and I hope to make a good one out of the two. Something I'll definitely have to do as most mechanics won't want to touch soldering up PCBs. Brake pedal doesn't fully go to the top of its travel, unless you assist it by pulling it up. I believe the Rev mentioned corrosion at the top of the pedal or something that just needs cleaning odd. Cambelt. This one scares me everytime the engine is started. Label under the bonnet says last changed in 1998 and that's almost certainly true. Steve has done a few hundred miles on it two years ago, but I don't have the guts or will to do a cambelt roulette myself on it. Plus I don't believe they're that difficult to change. Possibly needs some welding on the NSF. I'll clean the area up and if it's small I may do it myself. Alternatively let my local garage pickup on it at MOT time and let them sort it if it's a problem. So hopefully a quick project to get back on the road. That's the intention anyway as I don't have time for too much more, given the Dolomite is taking my time up and the others need fettling too (1100 front calipers and also selling it, MGB service). Likely scenario is getting the above list done so I can drive it to the MOT station and let them sort anything else out needed for that if anything other comes up.

    • By Zelandeth
      Well I've been meaning to sign up here in forever, but kept forgetting. Thanks to someone over on another forum I frequent poking me about it recently the subject was forced back into my very brief attention span for long enough to get me to act on the instruction.

      I figure that my little varied fleet might bring you lot some amusement...

      So...we've got:

      1993 Lada Riva 1.5E Estate (now fuel injected, as I reckon the later cars should have been from the factory...).
      1989 Saab 900i Automatic.
      1987 Skoda 120LX 21st Anniversary Special Edition.
      1985 Sinclair C5.
      2009 Peugeot 107 Verve.

      Now getting the photos together has taken me far longer than I'd expected...so you're gonna get a couple of photos of each car for now, and I'll come back with some more information tomorrow when I've got a bit more time...

      Firstly...The Lada. Before anyone asks - in response to the single question I get asked about this car: No, it is not for sale. Took me 13 years and my father's inheritance to find the thing.


      Yes, it's got the usual rusty wings...Hoping that will be resolved in the next couple of months.

       






      Next, a proper old Saab. One of the very last 8 valve cars apparently, and all the better for it. I've driven two 16v autos and they were horrible - the auto box works sooooo much better with the torque curve of the 8 valve engine. Just wish it had an overdrive for motorway cruising...









      Next up a *real* Skoda...back when they put the engine where it belongs, right out the back. In the best possible colour of course...eye-searingly bright orange.







      Seat covers have been added since that photo was taken as it suffers from the usual rotting seat cloth problem that affects virtually all Estelles.

      Then we have possibly the world's scruffiest Sinclair C5...



      Realised when looking for this that I really need to get some more photos of the thing...I use it often enough after all! We have a dog who's half husky, so this is a really good way of getting him some exercise.

      Finally - again, I really need to take more photos of - we have the little Pug 107.



      Included for the sake of variety even if it's a bit mainstream! First (and probably to be the only) new car I've bought, and has been a cracking little motor and has asked for very little in return for putting up with nearly three years of Oxford-Milton Keynes commuter traffic, before finally escaping that fate when my housemate moved to a new job. Now it doesn't do many miles and is my default car for "when I've managed to break everything else."

      I'll fill in some more details tomorrow - I warn you though that I do tend to ramble...
    • By mk2_craig
      Folks.  I don't care that the subject matter of this thread is, relatively-speaking, basically a new car.  I'm calling it shite and anybody who disagrees after letting the pictures do the talking can vanish off up their own arse as far as I'm concerned.
      With that out the way, here's the first bit of the tale.  I'll be brief.  Up until last August my wife was running this Astra Twintop of 2007 vintage.  Luxurious with the top spec "Design" trim level complete with comedy useless early built-in satnav tech, quick with the 2 litre Turbo motor.  Just about 34k on the clock at that point, and it had been treated to four new tyres the previous month.  Drove lovely.

      She then decides that a Mini convertible would be the way to go.  Here's the newest one she could find within budget :

      R57, registered mid 2010, Cooper S with the 1.6 turbo engine.  Looks alright eh?  




      Ok, it has some wheel and tyre-related issues.



      Admittedly, some perished rubber seals would want dealing with.



      Granted, those wipers are shagged.

      And those shitty, SHITTY "Cooper script" decals are way past their best, as are the faded and peeling bonnet stripes.


      Chunk missing outa that A-pillar trim, and what about that aerial?

      Oh.


      Someones only gone and nicked the COOPER S badges, but at least the bodywork's tidy, right?












      Hmmm.  Well, at least it still has a full set of locking nuts, doesn't it?




      OH COME ON!!!!

      So the background is that one of our local Polish car traders took it in as a part-ex against something better.  Usually he would smarten it up to punt on at a nice profit, but with his bodyshop man out of action he wanted this one off the books pronto and put it up for a couple of grand below the going rate.  I think most on here would have probably recommended walking away as rapidly as possible, but I can only conclude that I was high that day, because apparently we agreed a deal in which he took the Astra PLUS CASH against this tatty BINI.   Therefore it's been on fleet strength for the last seven and a half months.
      WCPGW??
×
×
  • Create New...