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phil_lihp

1977 Princess 1.8 HL - Saggy Brown Joy

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Also isn’t it quite an early one?Wheres the revbluejeans when you need him, he knew all about these early ones and helped rescue a few IIRC, back in the 90s when even pre prod ones would be cubed without a second thought.

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3 hours ago, phil_lihp said:

- pump it up, don't you know, pump it up.  My tame mechanic has a hydragas pump hidden away which he's going to dig out for me.  It has a serious case of the hydrasags.

@vulgalour is there an easy way of detecting if it's fluid loss or gas loss causing the sag?

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If you need to pump it up to obscene pressure to get it to the correct height, it's gas loss.  If you pump it up to the usual pressure (400psi from memory) and it gets to the proper height of 14.5" from hub to arch lip and it then sinks, it's fluid loss.  Usually.

@HMC '73 is the oldest I know of, pre-production.  Princess release was in 1974 so while a '76 is early, and remarkable for that considering how few survive compared to how many were produced, it's not the earliest it could be.

While I'm here, a couple of shots from an older eBay ad when it was still in full barn find status.

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WGK220R_3.thumb.jpg.711da881215566059a1f6e648753083a.jpg

WGK220R_1.thumb.jpg.04f78ef04ba5addb7a82ddf8115eeb3c.jpg

It being partially stuffed into a barn is likely what's saved the thing.

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This is fantastic, it looks very original. I am looking forward to following your progress on this and seeing it cleaned up and returned to a more dignified ride height although it looks rather good as it is. Metallic brown with tan interior is a great colour combination, I have two cars the same age as yours in a similar colour😀. I am excited just looking at the pictures, it must have been great when it arrived after waiting so long!

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10 hours ago, vulgalour said:

'73 is the oldest I know of, pre-production.  Princess release was in 1974 so while a '76 is early, and remarkable for that considering how few survive compared to how many were produced, it's not the earliest it could be.

[Anorak mode] I remember it being launched in 1975 and Wikipedia says  26 March 1975. This was as the 18/22 series, not a Princess.  It was relaunched as the Princess in September 1975.

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1 hour ago, 406V6 said:

[Anorak mode] I remember it being launched in 1975 and Wikipedia says  26 March 1975. This was as the 18/22 series, not a Princess.  It was relaunched as the Princess in September 1975.

I remember a neighbour had an early one, I seem to remember it being a Morris 1800, it had perforated vinyl seats and a Webasto vinyl sunroof, it had the raised bonnet around the grill, like the Wolseley version which later become the HLS.

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I’ve been reading though this thread & it’s been interesting so far.

Ive had a soft spot for the wedges, probably because they were a common site when I was young & there weren’t many other cars like them.

Has it been added to the wedgister yet?

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Thanks for the offer of the corner pieces - window seals might be moving up the list, I think it's been kept outside for the last 12 months and today I have discovered some dampness in the carpets, underlay and dashboard soundproofing.  The window seals are completely perished on the side windows and windscreen so definitely not watertight any more.  It's been drying out today with the floor mats out (original rubber BL mats!) after I spritzed vinegar solution over the interior to try and kill the mould, I'll keep leaving the windows open during the day for this week while it's warm and dry outside, plan is to hoik the seats and carpets out at the weekend.

I've just ordered a few treats for it - oil, filters and some new fuel line and filters plus some spark plugs, it's running well considering it's 28 years overdue for a service but I think it's earned a bit of TLC.

I've found a couple of rot holes around the driver's side rear light - pretty typical for these I seem to recall - we'll see what the floors look like once the carpets are out.

@richard_fm yes it is on there, I think @vulgalour spotted it when it first got dredged out of its barn and put on eBay as a non-runner last year.  

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duct+tape.+tags+say+all_5368a3_3941242.j

Rear screen seals tend to be fairly robust, front ones not so much.  www.leylandprincess.co.uk do I believe still have some brand new (not NOS) seals available to purchase for about £100, and my also have a rear screen seal.  At the rear, it tends to be the upper rail and the lower corners of the surround that rot out and let water in, up front it tends to be the seal going porous and the lower corners of the surround and/or a-pillars rotting out that lets the water in.   If it's leaking around the rear light clusters it might just be that the foam has dried out, @KruJoe's yoga mat and vaseline solution is a good fix for this.

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Yes I need to get a new roll of that - this car is definitely going to be seeing some duct tape in a few choice locations, temporarily* at least.  If that fails I've got an industrial-sized can of expanding foam, a fresh tube of no more nails and some leftover Isopon in the garage somewhere as well.

There's so much leaf mould and general filth in every gap and crevice - particularly the scuttle panel  - that a thorough wash will be needed before I can identify where water might be getting in.  Fortunately it doesn't seem to be soaking wet inside, only mildly damp so with any luck it's not too bad. 

  

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The drains at the edges of the scuttle area are rubbish and clog up with leaves and crap really easily.  If those are blocked and the water is overflowing in through the fresh air vent it wouldn't take much to get the interior all damp.  I bet the bottom couple of inches of the wing is packed with mud too, worth prising out the arch liners to clear that lot out too, shouldn't need to remove the liners fully.  Also, apologies if anything I'm mentioning is stuff you already know, do feel free to tell me to shut up.

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46 minutes ago, phil_lihp said:

Yes I need to get a new roll of that - this car is definitely going to be seeing some duct tape in a few choice locations, temporarily* at least.  If that fails I've got an industrial-sized can of expanding foam, a fresh tube of no more nails and some leftover Isopon in the garage somewhere as well.

That's the way to do it.  Fix it up with whatever you've got lying around, where possible.

MoT exemption is a joyous thing!

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17 hours ago, vulgalour said:

The drains at the edges of the scuttle area are rubbish and clog up with leaves and crap really easily.  If those are blocked and the water is overflowing in through the fresh air vent it wouldn't take much to get the interior all damp.  I bet the bottom couple of inches of the wing is packed with mud too, worth prising out the arch liners to clear that lot out too, shouldn't need to remove the liners fully.  Also, apologies if anything I'm mentioning is stuff you already know, do feel free to tell me to shut up.

I know very little - all advice gratefully received!  

What's the procedure with pumping these up?  Someone on the twitters has suggested buying a pump off eBay - I think he might be on here actually.  Will cost about £100 overall which is cheaper than getting the local place I found to do all four corners based on their quote.

@RobT There will be some element of "that'll do" I suspect, predominantly on the cosmetic elements.  Bodywork is not my forte and I would rather have a tatty but well-sorted car than the reverse.  Besides, what better philosophy for owning a mid-70s BL product?

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If you're being charged the equivalent of buying a pump to have your suspension inflated I should hope that includes the full vacuum and flush service as well.  Really, you just want a top up for now to find out what's amiss, so that's a case of hooking up a pump and pumping some fresh fluid in to get it up to height and then see what happens.

If it's all healthy after that, you need to get the old fluid vacuumed out, you then flush with something like purple methylated spirit a couple of times to clean it all up (the old fluid will likely be brown by now), and then reinflate with fresh fluid to the requisite height/pressure.  If someone is charging you £100+ for a top up tell them to jog on.

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Superb find and the same colour velour as in my dads green 1800HL. I loved it but he hated it with a passion, declaring everything forward of the windscreen was hopeless. 

Having watched DW most recent video about the Twin Cam B series MGA it would be hilarious to see of those in a Wedge. 

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1 hour ago, vulgalour said:

If you're being charged the equivalent of buying a pump to have your suspension inflated I should hope that includes the full vacuum and flush service as well.  Really, you just want a top up for now to find out what's amiss, so that's a case of hooking up a pump and pumping some fresh fluid in to get it up to height and then see what happens.

If it's all healthy after that, you need to get the old fluid vacuumed out, you then flush with something like purple methylated spirit a couple of times to clean it all up (the old fluid will likely be brown by now), and then reinflate with fresh fluid to the requisite height/pressure.  If someone is charging you £100+ for a top up tell them to jog on.

Noted, my usual tame mechanic says he has one squirelled away somewhere so will see if he can lay his hands on it before I go buying one myself.  I am not surprised the garage in question are charging too much to be honest but tricky to know what represents good value with nothing else to compare it to, the above feedback is much appreciated.

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Christ! £100 for a recharge!

I have an original Churchill dalek at work and have done a few wet mini's and a couple of rover metros  and i dont think i even charged as much as thay for a drain, flush vacuum and recharge.

Like you said though, it's difficult to know what to compare it to as there is so little call for it these days.

Ok just charge for how long it takes plus the fluid. It really doesn't take long.

 

Love your saggy brown wedge btw!

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My mechanic charges £20 for a basic pump up.  So yeah, robbing fuggers that lot if they're charging £100 for the equivalent.

Edit: the last time I had the Metro done it took 10 minutes.  Most of that was me agonising about the correct ride height.  Les told me "You're a fussy bugger, aren't you!".  He also told me it's better to have them under than over pumped, which I've found to be true.  The Morris is too high at the rear and tends to top out and thud over humps.  I'll try lobbing a sand bag in the back or something to see if that helps even things out.

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2 hours ago, Asimo said:

Every B-Series I've ever driven has run-on. Soon becomes second nature to pop it into top gear and gently stall it the moment you switch the ignition to off.

This. (Noting that I’ve only ever owned one B-series car.)

Has the Princess got two carbs? Balancing them used to reduce the running on slightly on my BGT. Sometimes for as much as a whole day.

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