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Mr_Bo11ox

Reg_Bo11ox' Volvo S80 D5 adventure

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Shit handbrake? TADTS. 

I've been recommended to get the same adjustment kit for Moose, as the parking brake; despite just being "looked at" is still utterly hopeless.

 

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Good to see you cracking on with this, hope D5 propulsion treats you well. Will be interested to see how you get on with those adjusters, if they work out for you I'll definitely be ordering some. Is it my imagination or did this car have a noisy aux belt tensioner? If you want I've got a good secondhand tensioner assembly you'd be welcome to if you want. Also I'm working on a DIY kit using an Arduino to add bluetooth to the factory head unit, once all the bits have arrived I'd be happy to stick a kit or a complete unit in the post if you reckon this car could be sticking around.

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If anything like the S60 the seats in these things are bloody marvelous aren't they (S80 ones maybe even better).  Don't know what trim yours are but some S60s/S80s seemed to come with a really nice soft velour which looked armchair comfy.  Pity the ride on my S60 didn't match the seat comfort.

Hope you'll continue to add to the thread in these lockdown times.

 

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I really enjoy my V70 D5, although it's thrown up a few minor issues. The engine mounts are pneumatic and fed from the brake vacuum pump, the same pipework also controls the turbo so if a mount fails then you lose quite a bit of oomph from the turbo. I used a £12 ebay vacuum tester and found out the front mount was leaking and needed to be replaced. I think lots of these D5 engined motors have defective mounts and the owners never know. 

The manual brake adjusters for the handbrake shoes is a good call, I've got a couple of sets from Volvos I've broken up over the years and need to fit them to my V70 as the handbrake is pretty ineffective. They were standard on the old shape V70 but replaced with a flat bar on the phase 2 models. I've also had to replace an ABS ring on one side, it was a super easy job after the new one was heated up on the hob. 

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This pneumatic engine mount business sounds interesting, I might have a look at that later, I think I even have one of those shitty eBay squeezy brass vacuum pump gizmos somewhere

 

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Brilliant MrB, I’m sure you will come to love this with its very comfortable seats and one of the best ever Diesel car engines ever in my humble opinion, I had exactly the same issues with the handbrake on my S60...

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D5s are great aren't they? 

If you have an intermittent EML you can't trace that gives out code P001, it's the swirl flap actuator. They have a habit of falling off. Easy fix though. 

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Done a bit more on this today.

The handbrake adjusters arrived so I lobbed them in:

P1090308.jpg

Did the drivers side first. The adjuster went in easily and I adjusted it up and lobbed the disc back on. The handbrake was immediately hugely improved.

P1090309.jpg

Went to put the caliper carrier back on, it bolted up tight now after sorting out the threads but somehow it was scratching on the outer surface of the disc. Not sure why this is, I guess the disc might get squeezed on a bit more when the wheel bolts are done up but somethings not right here. I reckon this caliper carrier is bent or damaged in some way after beling left loose for so long.

P1090310.jpg

A bit bodgy, but I spaced it out with a couple of M10 washers, just visible in this pic. That stopped the scratching if nowt else. Reassembled this side and went round the passenger side.

P1090311.jpg

Adjuster went in easy enough, but I had a bit of a war getting the drum on and off. It had a slight 'lip' round the inner edge.

P1090312.jpg

Linished that off with the flapwheel in the grinder. Again, adjjsted the shoe as tight as I dared and chucked it all back together.

The handbrake is now much better, it only comes up about 4 clicks and it holds the car on the drive no problem. BUT I think its still not 100%, specially on the passenger side. When I was doing the wheel bolts up the wheel can still move even with the HB on. Theres loads of meat on the shoes, not much slack in the cable so i can only assume either the cable itself or the actuator lever is a bit seized up on one side. I think changing the cable is a right war, centre console out and all sorts so I want to avoid that if I can. Anyway its much better than it was so that will do for now! Maybe it will bed itslef in and get better with a bit of use (yeah right).

Now I moved onto the other ABS ring. Took the front wheel off:

P1090313.jpg

Eh? Theres no friggin driveshaft bolt in at all!!! How on earth this has not stripped the spline I dont know. Anyway I have a spare bolt as the new wheel bearing came with one so no probs. Annoyingly the spline was not seized at all so my new hub puller wasnt gonna be getting any action here either!!!

P1090315.jpg

Got it all to bits again anyway. No massive problems thankfully

P1090314.jpg

I was chuffed to find a busted reluctor ring. Cracked right through and well rusty.

P1090316.jpg

Cleaned up the end of the driveshaft with a bit of wet and dry and WD:

P1090317.jpg

Heated up my ring on the hob. Soz about the mucky state of the hob, I will have some stern words with Ms_Nuts about that later as its just not acceptable for a serious car blog thing like this.

P1090318.jpg

Went on a treat, absolutely no problems and clamped on tight as it cooled. Lovely job!

Chucked it all back together, no photos as it was boring and time was getting on! Put the new shaft bolt in and nipped it up as tight as I dared with a 3/8 ratchet (so not all that tight really)

P1090319.jpg

All back in one piece. I havent cleared all the fault codes, there were quite a few and I will be surprised if there are not more problems to solve but that one defo needed dealing with so its a step in the right direction. Next job timing belt!!!

 

 

 

 

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Cheers Reg, I'll put the adjuster kit on my list of stuff. Think I need an ABS ring as well, keep getting the error message "Anti-skid service required", which apparently is a 83.167% chance of it being me having a shitty ring (fnar fnar).

Were you getting a message on the dash or just through the diagnostics thingy?

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Re hand brake I had the same problem on my S80, a kind soul on here recommend replacing the return springs.  It was like night and day and not something I would have thought about. 

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This is like some kind of weird flashback.

Six months ago I too bought a Volvo for £350 (V70 though) and immediately had to replace a wheel bearing and fanny about adjusting the handbrake- I think these jobs are just fundamental laws of P2 ownership. Changed the timing belt on it last weekend and didn't find it bad to do although mines a petrol model.

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1 hour ago, rainagain said:

Re hand brake I had the same problem on my S80, a kind soul on here recommend replacing the return springs.  It was like night and day and not something I would have thought about. 

Thanks man!!! In the absence of many other good ideas I've just ordered a new set of springs.

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Has anyone got any tips on identifying why I have no stereo sound on one side? I understand these have a factory fitted amplifier under the drivers seat, I was gonna pull the head unit out and inspect the wiring on the back of that but beyond that I'm quickly running out of ideas, I suppose I can try to access the amp and inspect the wiring at that end too

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57 minutes ago, Mr_Bo11ox said:

Thanks man!!! In the absence of many other good ideas I've just ordered a new set of springs.

No worries, I found the page where I changed them, you can see the difference:

 

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Re: radio....once you've checked everything is connected, and feel like a punt on another if still fooked, the one in mine, and many others are coded to the car, so just buying another won't work - I'm aware that I'm probably attempting to teach ones granny to suck eggs, but if not, hope it helps. There's somewhere that will recondition your old one as required so it keeps the code, but I'll be fucked if I can remember where it was; Rainham Essex rings a bell.

There's been a couple of lads on the Volvo owners forum who have had blown speakers, on one side only, so if it's that, it'll be a simple fix.

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1 hour ago, outlaw118 said:

Re: radio....once you've checked everything is connected, and feel like a punt on another if still fooked, the one in mine, and many others are coded to the car, so just buying another won't work - I'm aware that I'm probably attempting to teach ones granny to suck eggs, but if not, hope it helps. There's somewhere that will recondition your old one as required so it keeps the code, but I'll be fucked if I can remember where it was; Rainham Essex rings a bell.

There's been a couple of lads on the Volvo owners forum who have had blown speakers, on one side only, so if it's that, it'll be a simple fix.

That would be my first check - try a different speaker. Or does it have more than one speaker each side? Also turn your head around, you may have gone deaf in one ear without realising :)

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When I bought the Saab floppytop I wondered why the door speakers weren't working so removed the covers and found there were no speakers. Such is life!

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yeah it has at least 2 speakers each side, possibly more. Theyre defo all quiet on one side making me think its possibly more complicated than a busted speaker. Mind you I have not looked into the problem at all, so I am totally guessing.

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That reminds me of a mate who fucked about breaking various bits of car fitting new speakers only to find they still had no sound,  turned out not only did the sterio have front and rear fade but also had left and right fade too.  Oh how he laughed not.

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Interesting about the handbrake - that might be why the one on my V70 is a bit pants - I'd imagine there's some wear on the shoes after 260K miles.

Once we're allowed to play outside again I have a new CV joint to fit - I'm going to have to keep my fingers crossed that the driveshaft comes out of the hub as easily as yours did.

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Not surprised at the missing driveshaft bolt I've seen that a few times. 

Glad the shafts came out easily they can proper weld to the hubs I guess that missing bolt has done you a favour and kept it all loose!

Probably worth changing the auxillary belt and tensioner when doing the cambelt, water pump should be OK though.

It looks like a good one!

 

 

 

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