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Just watched the video about inappropriate comments. Sorry DW I know it is slightly off topic. I am sorry you had to make such a video.

What I do not get is YT offering me further watching  related content. One about a male masturbator machine and another about smoking/feet fetishes. Why YT, why?

Maybe this should go in the grump section?

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1 hour ago, Remspoor said:

Just watched the video about inappropriate comments. Sorry DW I know it is slightly off topic. I am sorry you had to make such a video.

What I do not get is YT offering me further watching  related content. One about a male masturbator machine and another about smoking/feet fetishes. Why YT, why?

Maybe this should go in the grump section?

They reset viewing preferences every once in a while. Recently my feed is being clogged up with bigfoot-like conspiracies and kids TV. It really is weird sometimes.

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4 hours ago, Remspoor said:

Just watched the video about inappropriate comments. Sorry DW I know it is slightly off topic. I am sorry you had to make such a video.

What I do not get is YT offering me further watching  related content. One about a male masturbator machine and another about smoking/feet fetishes. Why YT, why?

Maybe this should go in the grump section?

The YouTube recommended viewing algorithm is a complete mystery; it's machine learning and computer guesswork. Also the reason why kids who watch cartoons on YouTube end up getting occasionally creepy and adult versions of the same cartoon.

 

Tom Scott, who's channel is worth a proper good look and watch has a great video explaining it. Basically we don't really know. 

 

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Yeah, I like Tom Scott's stuff. Always interesting.

This week, I was rustproofing the 2CV, but then started picking at bubbles in the paint...

IMG_20200728_142140.thumb.jpg.5b229e144d9e6127e44a2b610b057d81.jpg

The zintec coating has stopped the rot being far worse. I suspect water is creeping in around the rear window. The paint doesn't seem to have bonded to the body that well, or maybe it's a reaction to the damp. I removed it with a Stanley knife...

I've used vactan then primer and paint, but the original paint is so thick that I really need to use some filler to get it back to level. A job for another day.

The U Pol Raptor only the underside has also failed in quite a few places. Making a restored car last really can be a challenge, especially in Wales.

Delica should be heading to another home this weekend in a cash/car swap deal...

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11 hours ago, Spurious said:

The YouTube recommended viewing algorithm is a complete mystery; it's machine learning and computer guesswork. Also the reason why kids who watch cartoons on YouTube end up getting occasionally creepy and adult versions of the same cartoon.

 

Tom Scott, who's channel is worth a proper good look and watch has a great video explaining it. Basically we don't really know. 

 

Tom Scott's video showing the difference between a million and a billion is brilliant.

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34 minutes ago, dollywobbler said:

Yeah, I like Tom Scott's stuff. Always interesting.

This week, I was rustproofing the 2CV, but then started picking at bubbles in the paint...

IMG_20200728_142140.thumb.jpg.5b229e144d9e6127e44a2b610b057d81.jpg

The zintec coating has stopped the rot being far worse. I suspect water is creeping in around the rear window. The paint doesn't seem to have bonded to the body that well, or maybe it's a reaction to the damp. I removed it with a Stanley knife...

I've used vactan then primer and paint, but the original paint is so thick that I really need to use some filler to get it back to level. A job for another day.

The U Pol Raptor only the underside has also failed in quite a few places. Making a restored car last really can be a challenge, especially in Wales.

Delica should be heading to another home this weekend in a cash/car swap deal...

Where did it fail? Near creases on the underside or on flat panels?

I'll get to a point where I have to reinstate the underseal/rubber chip thingymabob on my Lada, so was interested in the Raptor stuff. But if it doesn't last then I plan on throwing two coats of the Isopon rubberised paint underneath it instead.

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7 hours ago, sgtberbatov said:

Where did it fail? Near creases on the underside or on flat panels?

I'll get to a point where I have to reinstate the underseal/rubber chip thingymabob on my Lada, so was interested in the Raptor stuff. But if it doesn't last then I plan on throwing two coats of the Isopon rubberised paint underneath it instead.

Something I'd do with caution: as seen on DW's 2CV you have to get it right the first time- any imperfection that lets moisture through will creep under the rubber surface and conceal any further damage will inevitably occur. Here's a rather salty upstate New York example:

 

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At least watching your tales about rust has stopped me getting suggestions not to my taste.

Have not  UPol contacted you? Maybe they can "suggest" why the protection is failing.

nitrosilvia seems to prefer hydrate 80. Has anyone one here had long term experience of that product?

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Paint doesn't stick well to galvanising, unless it has been T-washed. 

 

Painting 2 pack straight onto galv steel is a recipe for disaster.. 

 

Top car though, low key fancy a 2cv ;)

 

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I'm not entirely sure what has gone wrong, but a combination of things I think.  I reckon the paint did adhere, but then moisture has somehow got in and where it has, the paint has lifted. Plans are afoot for rectification work that isn't my hap-handed bodgery.

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21 minutes ago, dollywobbler said:

I'm not entirely sure what has gone wrong, but a combination of things I think.  I reckon the paint did adhere, but then moisture has somehow got in and where it has, the paint has lifted. Plans are afoot for rectification work that isn't my hap-handed bodgery.

I think that's a major problem with certain underseals. Once it dries and chips there's a route for water to get in underneath it, you've got a problem. 

I think there's a lot to be said about the waxy type treatments that don't dry out and a top up every while or so. 

Gave this lots of thought when I treated the Jimny and went Krown in the end. Probably need another treatment next year but it seems to be working. 

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20 hours ago, Remspoor said:

At least watching your tales about rust has stopped me getting suggestions not to my taste.

Have not  UPol contacted you? Maybe they can "suggest" why the protection is failing.

nitrosilvia seems to prefer hydrate 80. Has anyone one here had long term experience of that product?

Hydrate 80 is great. Using it for years in preference to Kurust. Big fan of Bilt Hamber treatments. 

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@dollywobbler on your latest video, in the section regarding TWC's window runner falling out I recommend you check out this post by @Zelandeth https://autoshite.com/topic/29443-zels-motoring-adventuresjag-citroen-mercedes-ac-model-70-3007-invacar-carb-experiments/?do=findComment&comment=1762294

where he tackled pretty much the same issue except before it actually fell out thankfully :) 

im glad its just the window runner that fell out and not the entire window frame itself which are a known weak spot on Model 70's sadly

 

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Is there any primer under the top coat? It looks like it was just paint on top of the treated steel, could explain why it's not adhered and why it's scraping off in sheets.

Usually you'd sand the edges of the original paint to be flush with the metal before applying new paint so you can achieve a nice blend between the new/old paint with no hard lines but if the paint is going to chip off that might be an issue...

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21 hours ago, Cooper1 said:

Paint doesn't stick well to galvanising, unless it has been T-washed. 

This ^^^

Nothing sticks properly onto freshly galvanised steel. Fresh galv has a waxy surface so it doesn't matter what kind of primer you use it's like painting steel that's been smeared with lard. The recommendation from paint manufacturers is that hot dip galv should be weathered for 2 years prior to painting or prepped with t-wash. T-wash is a phosphoric acid based solution much like rust converters that will leave the material with a black phosphated coating that paint can adhere to.

Assuming this is the problem here then all repair panels made of zintec will have this issue but the paint on anything made out of mild steel will probably be fine. 

https://www.rust.co.uk/product/galvanised-metal-primer-t-wash-mordant-solution-30

 

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Ha! Thanks. Not a car I imagined I'd own. Look forward to actually being able to drive it. Seller reckons the V5 is still with DVLA after three weeks, which is entirely possible at the moment, so I'm not sure how I can tax it. Can't insure it until tomorrow anyway, so I guess there's no rush.

IMG_20200801_123631.thumb.jpg.fec696131f5e09f275c5758bbf94cde6.jpg

It's a 2000 Vauxhall Vectra 2.2 LS petrol, so lowly spec with a beefy engine. Might come in useful. Has a blowing flexi-pipe that was gacked up mightily to pass the MOT, but has blown again since. 57k miles, backed up by MOT history and seems good overall.

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I had a 2.2 estate, lovely car. But oh my did it get through some oil, especially after coming down a long hill then applying some throttle 😬 you couldn't see behind you. Bridged in the end. But really comfy. 

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33 minutes ago, dollywobbler said:

Ha! Thanks. Not a car I imagined I'd own. Look forward to actually being able to drive it. Seller reckons the V5 is still with DVLA after three weeks, which is entirely possible at the moment, so I'm not sure how I can tax it. Can't insure it until tomorrow anyway, so I guess there's no rush.

IMG_20200801_123631.thumb.jpg.fec696131f5e09f275c5758bbf94cde6.jpg

It's a 2000 Vauxhall Vectra 2.2 LS petrol, so lowly spec with a beefy engine. Might come in useful. Has a blowing flexi-pipe that was gacked up mightily to pass the MOT, but has blown again since. 57k miles, backed up by MOT history and seems good overall.

If you call the dvla tax vehicle by phone service on 0300 123 4321, it'll ask you to enter the v5c document number. If you keep entering it as all zero's, after three attempts it will transfer you to an operator who will be able to tax the car for 6mths over the phone.

I had to do this with the 206 which i've been waiting for a logbook for over 2mths now!

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36 minutes ago, Steve79 said:

If you call the dvla tax vehicle by phone service on 0300 123 4321, it'll ask you to enter the v5c document number. If you keep entering it as all zero's, after three attempts it will transfer you to an operator who will be able to tax the car for 6mths over the phone.

I had to do this with the 206 which i've been waiting for a logbook for over 2mths now!

Nice. Thank you. Will give that a go tomorrow.

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On 7/31/2020 at 6:25 AM, Spurious said:

I think that's a major problem with certain underseals. Once it dries and chips there's a route for water to get in underneath it, you've got a problem. 

I think there's a lot to be said about the waxy type treatments that don't dry out and a top up every while or so. 

Gave this lots of thought when I treated the Jimny and went Krown in the end. Probably need another treatment next year but it seems to be working. 

I used tar based spray on stuff- it takes about 50 years to fully dry, longer if it's painted over. Sticks well, dries to a crust like cow crap and is slightly oozy so any small chips it just tends to settle back over.

A scraper and a rag with petrol on get rid of it if you need to do future metal work. It's what they put on the car to begin with, though you do have to watch where the car gets hot, not totally suitable for areas where excess heat is present (around the exhaust) as it dries too quickly and cracks in the heat, negating it's usefulness. 

Phil

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1 hour ago, dollywobbler said:

It's a 2000 Vauxhall Vectra 2.2 LS petrol, so lowly spec with a beefy engine. Might come in useful. Has a blowing flexi-pipe that was gacked up mightily to pass the MOT, but has blown again since. 57k miles, backed up by MOT history and seems good overall.

2.2 litre petrol. Beefy engine. Towbar?
 

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