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Dollywobbler's Consolidated Tat Thread


dollywobbler

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Out of interest, what is Betty rated to tow?

I fell into an internet wormhole the other day looking at towing weights for JDM cars. It turns out that most JDM cars are not certified for towing, the VIN states only a GVW and no GTW. Yet people do tow with their Bongos, Elgrands, Pajeros etc without a problem. It's an odd one!

I know that Betty isn't JDM, I was wondering if there is a similar problem with non European vehicles.

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Depending on cost and ease are there airbags that can be fitted to supplement springs? Can be altered depending on the weight loaded.

 

Say this as I'm sure you said about having actual van springs installed as more heavy duty but will give a harder ride than the MPV style, depending on cost airbag's could be a good compromise

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Fairmont AU can tow 2300kgs! Though that's with electric brakes, which are common in USA and Aus. 550kg should be nothing. Betty has towed car trailers with previous owners.

3 hours ago, Toe said:

Depending on cost and ease are there airbags that can be fitted to supplement springs? Can be altered depending on the weight loaded.

 

Say this as I'm sure you said about having actual van springs installed as more heavy duty but will give a harder ride than the MPV style, depending on cost airbag's could be a good compromise

Not sure airbags would work with torsion bars. Discussions with the garage seem to suggest just going normal axle will suffice.

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IM axles have a fairly intermittent reputation, a few "it was fucked when it arrived and was fitted" and a few pleased with it but only for a couple of years.

 

That might be enough, of course.

An alternative might to get one properly refurbed by someone like Axles by Stef.

 

or just get an OK ish used one off another Partner/405 and stick it on - possibly the cheapest option and might be as good!

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1 minute ago, loserone said:

IM axles have a fairly intermittent reputation, a few "it was fucked when it arrived and was fitted" and a few pleased with it but only for a couple of years.

 

That might be enough, of course.

An alternative might to get one properly refurbed by someone like Axles by Stef.

 

or just get an OK ish used one off another Partner/405 and stick it on - possibly the cheapest option and might be as good!

Stef has retired sadly. Can't see the point in going second hand, as age seems as much of a factor as mileage. Just saying, but my 2CV is still on the original suspension springs and rear axle arm bearings... (Which are about four times the size of Berlingo ones! They very rarely wear out).

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1 minute ago, loserone said:

Have you asked, he seemed to "come out of retirement" a month or two ago?

Scrap that, he was selling his personal stash.

 

Bumhats.  Surely someone doing good rebuilds is a business opportunity worth taking on?

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4 hours ago, dollywobbler said:

Berlingo axle every day of the week. And then you have a vehicle that does 60mpg instead of one that does 27...

Well that is not the answer to the question I asked which will be cheaper and easier. The costs after is something else.

Because I own a Pug 307SW: I  knew you don't like them But I see it has advantages. from 2 to 7 seats. All the rear ones can be made into any combination. Clap-hand wipers with not doom triangles. Panoramic roof window. and more.  I like the cars. I would not have a  hatch version through.

Anyhow I am a member of a few Pug forums I thought I would look for rear axle rebuilders. Here are a few links. I hope one of them can be of help.

http://abaxles.co.uk/en/about/

https://rearaxle.co.uk/

https://www.franceauto.pl/en_GB/index This one is based in Poland and I cannot find much for your car.

https://www.imaxle.co.uk/    This one has no address on website. But companies house says they are located in Nottingham.

I have not used any of these . I do feel a rebuilt one is the way to go. You have a enough work on with the other parts of the fleet so farming the refurbishing out is perhaps the better way to go. It will still give you content swapping out the old and new plus a visit to the workshops may mean a partnership deal😉

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FYrd8cxWIAIN34K?format=jpg&name=small

The axle is now at the garage doing the work. I don't have time to sort it, and while the expense (given the front springs also need replacing) will make me wince, I can see it turning into one of those jobs where every brake union seizes and bolts refuse to budge.

I'll never know how expensive the Camry would be to revive, but cylinder heads aren't cheap, and if I farmed that job out (or an engine swap) I can't believe it'd be any cheaper than the suspension work. I suspect the axle job is actually easier given how snug that V6 sits in the engine bay.

All this means we'll hurriedly be trying to get the Fairmont UK tow ready (ball and electrics) today, while also fitting a new headliner. We hit the road tomorrow.

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22 minutes ago, dollywobbler said:

All this means we'll hurriedly be trying to get the Fairmont UK tow ready (ball and electrics) today, while also fitting a new headliner. We hit the road tomorrow.

It's Hubnut -smooth sailing guaranteed.

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To give you some hope for your future Avantime purchase, the spare wheel is UNDER the car. What you showed was the second lower boot— they can be combined by removing that second parcel shelf and then it’s really quite big and practical. 
 

I loved mine so much but the automatic gearbox on the 3.0 V6 was just intolerable in that they all select neutral about a second after you come to a stop and then thump back in to first too slowly just as the revs rise. Volvos did exactly this mistake with the same box but finally programmed this silliness out with a software update… obviously it wasn’t worth Renault’s while to do this.
 

If it wasn’t for the box, I’d probably still have it— oh and the stupid oversight of zero foot space under the back seats that you also mentioned. 
 

I think I have a video of my absolutely caning mine up a mountain pass in Scotland somewhere! The ES9 (or whatever Renault  call it—that’s the Citroen name) was screaming beautifully and it did actually handle. 

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21 hours ago, jamescarruthers said:

To give you some hope for your future Avantime purchase, the spare wheel is UNDER the car. What you showed was the second lower boot— they can be combined by removing that second parcel shelf and then it’s really quite big and practical. 
 

I loved mine so much but the automatic gearbox on the 3.0 V6 was just intolerable in that they all select neutral about a second after you come to a stop and then thump back in to first top slowly just as the revs rise. Volvos did exactly this mistake with the same box but finally programmed this silliness out with a software update… obviously it wasn’t worth Renault’s while to do this.
 

If it wasn’t for the box, I’d probably still have it— oh and the stupid oversight of zero foot space under the back seats that you also mentioned. 
 

I think I have a video of my absolutely caning mine up a mountain pass in Scotland somewhere! The ES9 (or whatever Renault  call it—that’s the Citroen name) was screaming beautifully and it did actually handle. 

My Laguna2 did the gearbox thumping thing! Learnt to drive around it in the end but if I ever forgot it woke me up 😂

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Is the balance of the trailer correct?

You probably know this already... But..

Downward load on the ball should be 10-15% of trailer weight, the trailer nose weight limit or whatever the car limit is, use the lower of the 3 numbers - 75kg would be about right for that trailer, I believe.

Shouldn't be pushing down enough to flatten a Fairmont.

If in doubt, some bathroom scales tared with a block of wood on top at roughly tow ball height and just lower the trailer nose onto it. Takes 5 minutes and can make towing a lot more relaxing.

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I don't see how we could really package things differently. With the camper folded, there isn't really any storage. Removing the leisure battery might be a way to reduce noseweight. Haven't been able to measure it yet.

But the boot is pretty well loaded, which I suspect is more the issue. If it was a proper caravan, we could move weight from tow vehicle to camper, but like I say, that just isn't really possible with a folding camper. (What little storage it has is only accessible if the camper is raised).

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I forgot you had that massive leisure battery - that would definitely be better near the centre or rear of the camper, balanced with lighter stuff (awning??) in the front compartment. You have storage under the seats at the back, that's a better place for the battery - but ideally weight should be even(ish) side to side, as I'm certain that you know.

I do think you need to check weights and rearrange things to suit, judging by what's happening at the back of both cars you've used. At least the electrical connectors for the battery are simple to move. Do you even need the battery?

Unless Betty really is that knackered back there - but I've never seen anything on your videos that make me suspect anything.

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Here's how we are looking today after a bit of a rejig. Betty is sagging even when empty though. Time for new rear springs and shocks.

20220802_135813.thumb.jpg.5d2289beab74dae5a86f883b83061187.jpg

Ratdat has sorted out the trailer brakes, so they actually work, and replaced a duff wheel bearing. Top chap. Tows much more sweetly now.

Will be interesting to see how the Berlingo looks hooked up with its new back end. Can't wait to get back to 40mpg rather than 20...

 

 

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@dollywobbler erm, probably not often you get asked this but any chance you could photograph the included tubes if any? :)

image.thumb.png.bbe0b9917cd4817d8a5ef84986ca9539.png

vintage low voltage transistorised lights like this, often came with endura T5 tubes made at Shipley in the UK (Company/Factory later taken over by Sylvania in the late 70s), and they are quite rare today, so I would be more then happy to give few quid so you can buy modern replacement tubes for them so I can add the vintage tubes to my collection :) 

 

also because, as fun as the artwork is, sadly a lot of these 12V Caravan lights, are utter shit, and have really awful drivers that just munch tubes (esp when the battery voltage gets a bit low), so I would like to save any vintage tubes from that fate!

so its not often I say this, but you may genuinely be better off with some warm white LED alternatives if these turn out to be such tube munchers

a quick and dirty way to check for such, is hook one up to a suitable 12V DC source and measure how many amps it draws and volts multiplied by amps gives you your total wattage :) 

and if its bellow the rated wattage of the tube, then it will munch the tube

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