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Dollywobbler's Consolidated Tat Thread


dollywobbler

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Invacar news. Good and bad.

IMG_20201027_122704.thumb.jpg.81a84fe4e0879db17c645685fc14a4f4.jpg

The good news is that I did a compression test, and she seems fairly healthy. 110psi one side, just over 120 the other. Given the feeble compression ratio, I think that'll do. I also found the oil leak. It's the cooler. Will try the spare I have.

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Sadly, I think the compression tester finished off the dodgy spark plug thread on the offside head. When I went to start her up again, there was an impressive bang as she fired the spark plug out. Bad times. It's really not easy to access the offside head, as the engine isn't centrally mounted. I think it'll be a case of head off and try to get a threaded insert fitted. Arse.

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3 hours ago, dollywobbler said:

Invacar news. Good and bad.

IMG_20201027_122704.thumb.jpg.81a84fe4e0879db17c645685fc14a4f4.jpg

The good news is that I did a compression test, and she seems fairly healthy. 110psi one side, just over 120 the other. Given the feeble compression ratio, I think that'll do. I also found the oil leak. It's the cooler. Will try the spare I have.

IMG_20201027_110953.thumb.jpg.55cbe8e696c13df989abd3853d4bb939.jpg

Sadly, I think the compression tester finished off the dodgy spark plug thread on the offside head. When I went to start her up again, there was an impressive bang as she fired the spark plug out. Bad times. It's really not easy to access the offside head, as the engine isn't centrally mounted. I think it'll be a case of head off and try to get a threaded insert fitted. Arse.

 

glad the compression reading is good, if anything it sounds a little high but it probably depends how good or bad quality your compression tester is and its own tolerances

(the Steyr Puch engine fitted to the Model 70  should have a compression ratio between 92.430 PSI and 113.76 PSI when new, with a wear limit of 71.10 PSI)

 

big arse on the spark plug thread, is it properly knackered now? I got the impression that although she spat a plug out last time the thread in the head was undamaged? 

you still have TWC's original engine right? would it be easier to just take a good head off that engine than trying to helicoil the original?  (or at least it would allow you to fix the broken head at your leisure without having to worry about TWC being immobilised) 

and while your doing that you can grab the 3 engine numbers :) 

 

 

if compression is fine (and if it really is that high, then it lines up well with that engine/TPA really only having done 10K. at least :) ) then I do wonder still why she is seemingly a bit down on power

what other variables could be at play compared to ex KPL's engine in TPA?

(it will be interesting to see where REV and Dolly lie in the Model 70 performance charts LOL, once they are road worthy :) )

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36 minutes ago, LightBulbFun said:

you still have TWC's original engine right? would it be easier to just take a good head off that engine than trying to helicoil the original?  (or at least it would allow you to fix the broken head at your leisure without having to worry about TWC being immobilised) 

It is a possibility this would be a temporary way out for Ian, however the caveat would be tiny discrepancies between the mating faces of the 2 cylinder heads where the other head hasn't worn with this block giving a blow or leak. If there's a gasket this would take this up, but a lot of small air cooled engines rely on the mating faces being lapped in with each other when swapping components, which can be a lot of faff. My only experience of working on air cooled engines was trying to get the compression back in a Suffolk Punch lawnmower - once the replacement head was lapped to the block the compression was back!

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6 hours ago, wuvvum said:

Dolly felt quite nippy once the clutch was fully engaged - I didn't want to try pulling away too fast due to the interesting noises it was making.

Yeah I noticed that she was quite nippy when I drove her :) (which was a little scary and quite painful with no seat back installed!)

but I am not sure how much that is to do with the different throttle control setup, I found I could apply a lot more throttle much quicker/easier in Dolly  then I can in REV with her stiff twist grip setup

maybe I need to fit REV with a quick action throttle from a motorbike or something? :mrgreen:

6 hours ago, dozeydustman said:

It is a possibility this would be a temporary way out for Ian, however the caveat would be tiny discrepancies between the mating faces of the 2 cylinder heads where the other head hasn't worn with this block giving a blow or leak. If there's a gasket this would take this up, but a lot of small air cooled engines rely on the mating faces being lapped in with each other when swapping components, which can be a lot of faff. My only experience of working on air cooled engines was trying to get the compression back in a Suffolk Punch lawnmower - once the replacement head was lapped to the block the compression was back!

yeah no head gaskets here, wonder how @dollywobbler did it with the 2CV since they dont have head gaskets either?

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On 10/25/2020 at 6:32 PM, dollywobbler said:

Not sure I feel totally in control of the fleet at the moment to be honest. Hoping to have a strong week as there are fewer distractions at the moment.

I get like that mate, the trick is to make sure at least one of them is working about well enough at all times.

I'm resisting getting excited at the prospect of a free MK6 Fiesta 1.4 TDCI at the moment because with the van MOT due, the Smart car that I'm yet to actually arrange to collect (even though I'm currently insuring, paying tax, and have purchased) and the constant pressures of trying to have enough space to actually do stuff at the unit.

I'd really like to go down and finish off the Up! we have in at the moment, but I've a meeting tonight, and I suspect tomorrow I won't have the same enthusiasm.

 

Hopefully they can sort Rita the Rover out, and you'll feel a little more focus on getting jobs done on the stuff you want to get done.

It's a shame Wales is so bloody far from Stamford, as some of the stuff you've got I'd not mind having a bit of a spanner on myself just to see if I can problem solve some of the stuff that's giving you a headache.

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We generally do lap heads on 2CVs. I'll get the head off and see how it looks. Good call on using the old engine for that! Hadn't even crossed my mind.

TWC is still REALLY hard to push, so I think it's the resistance that's slowing her down. 60mph is easy enough on the flat, but the slightest gradient has her slowing down.

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37 minutes ago, dollywobbler said:

We generally do lap heads on 2CVs. I'll get the head off and see how it looks. Good call on using the old engine for that! Hadn't even crossed my mind.

another thing ill bring up is this, not sure if you have it already, but its the version I got with REV that @Zelandeth kindly scanned in for me, so its nice high quality colour, and I also had it OCRed so it can be searched :)

DHSS Workshop Manual For The Model 70 Three Wheeler(OCR).pdf

but im specifically including it now as it also contains the full Steyr puch engine service manual, which goes into quite some depth on taking these engines apart etc, so figured it would come in handy given what your up against!

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1 hour ago, LightBulbFun said:

another thing ill bring up is this, not sure if you have it already, but its the version I got with REV that @Zelandeth kindly scanned in for me, so its nice high quality colour, and I also had it OCRed so it can be searched :)

DHSS Workshop Manual For The Model 70 Three Wheeler(OCR).pdf 20.17 MB · 42 downloads

but im specifically including it now as it also contains the full Steyr puch engine service manual, which goes into quite some depth on taking these engines apart etc, so figured it would come in handy given what your up against!

I love the way 42 of us have downloaded that, and I'd say most of us are just doing it out of idle curiosity.  I love old service manuals. 

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16 minutes ago, wuvvum said:

I'd be excited at a free one of those myself.  I've long been considering whether I should get a modern* tiny £30-tax diesel to run around in.

Car take back have offered me £140.  

 

I'm yet to see the car and recover it so I've no idea what it needs.  

It's currently in *shudder* Peterborough

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2 hours ago, dollywobbler said:

Rover now has a sill and an MOT, so collecting it tomorrow. Have insured the Matiz, so I can swap that over so it can also be tested. I think the Rover and Matiz will be my winter fleet. Assuming the Matiz passes...

Fingers crossed for Mirtle 🤞

Those two sound like a dream pair for this winter.

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Drove the 2CV to the unit and dug the Matiz out.

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First drive since September 2019 and generally ok bar what seems like a lack of power and noisy wiper blades. Now left for MOT.

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Because I'm back in the Rover. Note the new sill. I've ordered some rattle cans so I can do a quality* job matching it.

Sadly, within a mile, the ABS went into action and then the ABS light came back on. So it'll have to go back for that to be looked at. I'll get the Matiz tested first though, then I can swap them back.

I have a new in-tank pump for the Rover as I'm pretty sure the existing one is dead. I do like driving it though.

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It's because the backwall is below the ground level immediately behind it, and no damp-proofing has been done. Water pours in through that wall. A drain cut into the concrete would help, but that doesn't seem a joyous job. I went for this one on the basis there really wasn't any alternative, but while the location is handy, the unit itself is definitely quite badly flawed. 

At least it is well ventilated, but I think too much weather is getting in for comfort in all honesty.

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It looks like a breeze block wall, so water is going to come through no matter what- what is the building owner prepared to do to keep you there- internal drainage channel is the 'easiest' option for them.

Maybe try a tub or 3 of Sika waterproof coating first to see if that makes a difference?

Damp storage is a real PIA. I've had to slap roof bodge paint onto the roof of my storage unit several times to stop leaks- it's old asbestos corrugated roofing and that's  not being replaced by the owner any time soon...but it's cheap rental...🤷‍♂️

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Building owner mostly seems a little lacking in the knowledge department - family farm that they've inherited. I don't like to kick off too much as they've already done a fair bit (electrics, water, sorting the door hinges) and it is cheap, but unsuitable storage is unsuitable storage. Problem is, there's no chance of a proper unit near home - minimum 18-mile drive to the nearest towns. There is one building I have my eye on, part of a former dealership, but it's £20,000 a year, so that's a big fat no. Plus I'm not sure it's a good idea to give me that much space...

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