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What are you living with?


Craig the Princess

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Vivaro goes into limp mode if heavy on the accelerator under 2,000 rpm, otherwise its fine-until I let my guard slip.

Also interior lights don't work in the cab or sectioned off rear. Told it is some module or other that's blown, but magnetic battery lights are much better!

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5 hours ago, castros_bro said:

Suzuki GT250 which started/ran on left hand cylinder only so needs it's 125cc bollocks revving of it to initially move or it dies - then the right hand cylinder chimes in during the manoeuvre all hell breaks loose with the sudden appearance of a 250cc of revving two stroke.  Not for the feint hearted or those of a nervous disposition.  

Have you still got it?

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Galaxy: Flattens battery if not used for a couple of days. Just keep a boost pack in the car and a charged spare battery. The car has pretty much done this since I got it, but it's easy enough to live with. It has other quirks, such as central locking not working,

 

Transit: Smoke on start up, riddled with rust. Bizzarely the drone from the rear at over 50mph just stopped happening, heaven knows why, but will sit happily at erm 'motorway speeds+ a bit on top' no problem.

 

Lada: How long have you got?

 

Astra: Every panel rough, looks like it was cleaned with a house brick dipped in battery acid.

 

CLK:  Better than it was, but tracking out I think.

 

Suzuki Vitara: not been for a long enough test drive to find out! 

 

Lambretta: Anything and everything. Engine currently in bits, looks like a new top end is needed as well as everything else. I think a cheap new 186 kit is the order of the day.

 

750/4 chopper: Oil leak, annoyingly loud (no silencers) and won't tick over. 

 

Vespa: Main stand wonky and needs a seat cover. The years of giffer 'repairs' to the bodywork are staying put though. 

 

 

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Mrs LabRat's Tivoli needs the Aircon regassing (first world problems) and the locking wheel nuts smashing off the rear wheels at some point as the locking key was made of chinesium or its Korean equivalent.

The mg6 has picked up a quirk where if you have the aux cable plugged into a phone and you turn on the headlights, the satnav/display reboots... I should get it looked at, but TADTS. Otherwise it's doing remarkably well for a 7 year old Chinese saloon

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Hardly know where to start. In my old XJ40 the inside door handle broke so I'd open the window to use the outside door handle. Until of course that did what it likes to do and broke. Que getting in and out of the passenger side. The petrol filler cap release is broken so every time I have to fill up, which is often, I have to dive into the boot for the manual release. The heater doesn't work until the first time I turn right and don't mention the aircon. And that's ignoring the other usual old Jag faults

The CX has no end of electrical quirks. When it rains for instance I suddenly get one touch windows. But the relatively minor faults are that the speedo doesn't work. And you have to go into fifth before attempting reverse but I don't count that as a real fault. 

My Subaru has an interior light that's not working and think that's about it

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I've had a few quirks in cars over the years.

-Tipo DGT dashboard going off in the rain

-Clio 1.9D needing about 10 glow plug cycles to start

-ZX with a broken drivers door lock, so you'd have to lock the doors by opening the rear door and pushing down the inside lock (which was a pencil snapped in half as the original plastic tab had broken off) and then closing the rear door with the lock pushed in. This was complicated enough for me to lock the keys in the car once. 

-Fiat Brava which had windows which opened but only closed every so often. I once left it in a car park with the driver window nearly entirely open. It didn't get stolen. 

-Alfa 164 which had a dodgy brake light switch which used to leave the brake lights on even with the ignition off. A jiggle would sort it out. I once didn't do that and the battery went flat when I was at work. 

-Safrane with no hot air at all, during the height of winter. Had to drive with the driver window open until the window stopped steaming up. 

- AX with non functioning electric drivers window. 

- 800 with really iffy key fobs. Sometimes they'd work but mostly didn't. Would take an age to get it to disarm properly. 

-Audi 80 that would chug at idle something fierce. The only way to remedy that was to hold the revs at around 1200. 

And loads more I've forgotten. 

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27 minutes ago, straightSix said:

....The CX has no end of electrical quirks. When it rains for instance I suddenly get one touch windows. But the relatively minor faults are that the speedo doesn't work. And you have to go into fifth before attempting reverse but I don't count that as a real fault......

I just get another problem after sorting out the last problem!

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Wheels need balancing and the aircon needs a top up on the wife's 307CC and it needs rear discs and pads as does my 307SW which also needs some suspension and the parking sensors don't work, the handbrake on my eldest's Bini only works on one wheel, and I've changed headlight bulbs in all 3 of them in the last week. 

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9000: intermittent central locking, squeaky clutch pedal

MX5: you have to leave it to idle for 2 minutes or it’ll cut out as soon as you rev it, the ignition switch is a bit dicky so sometimes it doesn’t engage or sometimes the wipers decided not to work... the internal boot release doesn’t work, passengersWindow doesn’t go down unless you push it,  it leaks worse than Julian Assange... But fuck knows where from!

2CV... wonky steering wheel, annoying starting button workaround (where the kill switch is right next to the choke), left indicator stops working when it rains.

C5: Self opening boot needs a helping hand, parking sensors inoperative... 

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Jag: Central locking dead on passenger front door, hit and miss electric window switches, headlights cut out at random with full beam engaged, headlamp wash/wipe doesn’t work, dead rear cigar lighter (that’s what it called in the manual), cruise control with a mind of its own, very floppy indicator stalk, rev counter occasionally falls out of the dashboard.

Corolla: Dead stereo LCD backlighting, a couple dead heated rear window elements, speedo cable clicks and gauge flutters, tired shock absorbers.

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Mine Fiesta 

Drop links both side's, slightly  blowing exhaust and a non functioning Heated front screen, relay good, wiring good, 12v good, earth good, but no power getting through, I suspect as it's the original screen and the bottom has gone milky that water has damaged the buzz bar, I won't be changing it

Wife's Lupo 

Central locking needs sorting out but does still lock and unlock but on the wrong side, the n,s,f shock absorber is past its best so a pair will be ordered as soon as funds allow, and finally the passenger window needs assistance when going up or it jams in the rubber. 

 

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Triumph Acclaim - Idles and pulls unevenly, handbrake is rubbish, foot brake is rubbish, most of the arse end of it is rotten, left hand indicators flash at double speed, the wind slowly pushes the driver's door mirror inwards, the radio speakers make the dashboard vibrate, the speed cable rattles.

Triumph Dolomite 1300 - Untraceable constant squeak from the rear seat area, probably suspension, rear/brake/indicator lights only work intermittently, most of the car is filler, has been known to run out of fuel when showing 1/4 a tank but also running on empty for 30 miles.

Triumph Dolomite 1850HL - Steering was very heavy wouldn't self centre, throttle pedal was really heavy, brakes required pumping to work, indicators wouldn't self cancel, used to run too hot in summer, driver's side door lock used to jam, footwells filled with water.

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Suzuki Wagon R+: driver's side power window switch has to be worked the other way around (command UP to go down, command DOWN to go up). Nae bother.  A bit of teritory marking (drips of oil from the valve cover seal), to be changed as soon as resource "time" is available. Jumps out of 3rd while engine braking. I guess I'll live with it.

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Audi:

Fuel and temp gauges do whatever they want, TADTS.

Door seals around the windows leak a bit when it is rainy and very windy, TADTS (even new ones, I have read).

Boot lid inexplicably holds water somewhere and it gushes out into the boot when you open it but is otherwise watertight.

Exhaust cam chain tensioner takes a couple of seconds to 'pump up' on start up. Runs fine and quiet otherwise though, filed under ignore.

Drivers side window initially either doesn't work or goes down but won't go back up. Power supply issue due to a dry joint on some relay on another under the dash. Never bothered to fix it as the window always wakes up after a few minutes.

Still a GR9 car though

Clio:

A bit rusty up front I am told, filed under 'it's an old car'

Alarm goes off in the rain so have to manually lock the car from the passenger side (drivers lock barrel is seized)

Screenwash bottle only holds long enough to pass the MOT. I haven't fixed it as the passenger wiper, which needs to come off to remove the bottle, is seized on)

Massive radio interference on MW when the rear wiper is on.

Still a Gr9 car though

Corsa:

Unidentified jangly rattle under light throttle, likely a loose bracket somewhere, filed under ignore

Hole in the strut tower

Still a Gr9 car though

Mini:

Uses a bit of oil

Valve stem seals past their best (Heritage)

N/S sidelight connector faulty, will probably stay on long enough to pass MOT. Bongs at me for this on startup

Ran out of screenwash one day and now bongs at me even although it's full

Can't turn off the service due indicator (don't know how to)

Still a Gr9 car though

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16 minutes ago, leanycan said:

This is the way it is just now. It’s look to have been repaired before. My plan is to get the roof sanded down back to bare metal and either do it black or vinyl roof. 

You could probably get away with using a sander to key it then using some high build primer on it. 

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On 2/23/2020 at 12:19 AM, Craig the Princess said:

Mrs the Princess's Panda is an Eleganza so obviously the heater has done an Eleganza and the quadrant that controls the temperature breaks leaving the air on cold. This has been bodged to be hot but gluing it in which will be removed come summer. The replacement apparently is over £1000!

Mine was the same when I bought it. I followed some instructions on the Fiat forum and fixed* it. I made a slot with a soldering iron in the heater box flap thing. Then I jammed two pieces of plastic and a piece of metal in the middle of the motor cog thing. Bit of a faff mind but it seems to have worked. 

* Touch wood

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On 2/23/2020 at 12:19 AM, Craig the Princess said:

Been thinking about this for a while, but working out the Applejack Allegro's made me think of it again. For about 5 years the fuel gauge works on a full tank for about 100 miles then plummets to zero. I seem to remember it comes back, but I chickened out at the 240 mile mark despite apparently still having 13 litres or so left.

The Multipla has some things in the live with it category, rear windows and sunroof don't open (like that when we bought it) I looked for the fuses but the car doesn't match the hand book. The car runs cold but the thermostat is about £125 so bugger that.

Mrs the Princess's Panda is an Eleganza so obviously the heater has done an Eleganza and the quadrant that controls the temperature breaks leaving the air on cold. This has been bodged to be hot but gluing it in which will be removed come summer. The replacement apparently is over £1000!

My Saab has an EML on for the coolant temperature sensor. The replacement sensor has sat in the car for 2 months now cos I'm a big lazy bastard. Other than that not much !

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