Jump to content

Yummy Rover Metro - HGF confirmed


egg

Recommended Posts

46 minutes ago, beko1987 said:

@Pillock or @cobblers could knock one up in 5 minutes with the values known. 

Thanks Beko and LBF

Here are the values...

https://forums.mg-rover.org/threads/heater-fan.561458/

Quote

Or my preferred solution to replace the Rover one with two 0.5 (or 0.47) OHM metal clad resistors (25 watt rating) mounted on the panel where the old one was. I used some shrink tubing to protect the connections. I got mine from RS components as I'm in the trade but try Maplin.

I probably would need some help from somebody who knows what they are doing though!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, beko1987 said:

Doing that would be the easy part, it's making it not huge and ugly and not waterproof I couldn't do! 

Little breadboard, one of those proper nice sealing little tupperwares and some hot glue and your laughing 

given the amount of current we are dealing with here, id be more inclined to do it old school point to point without a PCB

like an old Valve radio :) 

(how much power does a Metro blower motor draw?)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Happy to help with a radius arm greasing session, as I've got guns and grease here.  It always seem to turn into a mucky job, even though I've done mine numerous times.

The dragster look the Rover Metros get is due to the hydragas cans being linked front to rear, whereas on Austins the two fronts are individual and the rears connected to eachother.  Over time the nitrogen must escape more readily from the front cans (via the diaphragm in the unit) which could be due to the extra weight and impacts at the front.  Dunno, that's a guess...So when you pump them up with fluid it takes more to fill the fronts.  Can be tricky to get right, as too much in the rears can cause the suspension to top out and thud easily (in my limited experience of having owned a Rover 114).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, egg said:

You wind the window down to adjust the wing mirrors. At least it has two of those 

Yup. We sold shit loads of n/s mirrors as aftersales as only o/s was standard on bottom, or bottom 2, trim levels. GDM 601 & 602 springs to mind, but it was a long time ago.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

54 minutes ago, LightBulbFun said:

given the amount of current we are dealing with here, id be more inclined to do it old school point to point without a PCB

like an old Valve radio :) 

(how much power does a Metro blower motor draw?)

I'd do the same- some comformal coating and perhaps surrounding that in heatshrink woulkd see it right!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Then there was this ungrateful little ***** 75 bhp 5 gears and electric front windows!

I was given it HGF on this forum and my friend helped me change the head gasket, but in spite of everything we did it would heat up quickly. I stood it in the field and one day I got it out to photograph it for an advert and it was fine. Hairnet drove it backwards around the field and it was still fine so I can only think it was an airlock. By then I had bought the fully running beautiful SLi in nightfire so sold it on for the price of the bits still needing an MOT.

P1020057 broad.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, The Old Bloke Next Door said:

It does look a bit dragster, could be the front cans need re-gassing.

I wouldn't be to worried about crashing it compared to similar cars of the era. This wrote off a Fiat Punto and Vauxall Astra and the driver ( my son ) walked away uninjured.

38928995_943783432490331_5073911966485970944_n.jpg

m68 009 (1).jpg

M68.jpg

DSC_0016 (2).jpg

DSC_0017 (2).jpg

I agree, crash resistance wouldn't overly concern me either.  A lot was made of the 100/ Metro's lack of crash resistance but it has to be put into context. The basic shell lived far longer than intended. When Metro came out in 1980 it was actually on a par or better than it's contemporaries. It just lived so long that in that respect there wasn't much Rover could do as the basic shell was an old design never designed to meet a much harsher offset crash test. It was designed to hit a barrier at 30 mph head on & did that rather well.

A 1970's/1980's Fiesta or Polo would be pretty similar in an offset crash test or probably worse. A friend of mine worked at TRL where they crash test cars & couldn't believe how poor a breadvan type Polo was in a wallop but nobody goes on about them being unsafe.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One compensation of a possibly large garage bill is the parts that came with it, cambelt and tensioner, a tiny water pump and cam cover seal. There's also a drive belt that has got mud on it!

IMG_20200222_172342.thumb.jpg.bb3c9ad596c57b0e1d245f08932982e1.jpg

IMG_20200222_172417.thumb.jpg.7a40ee962cf2ed26da4ca9a192be1fb1.jpg

IMG_20200222_172504.thumb.jpg.088d0c53ca7a34b63527a1f9d1e008ee.jpg

So I also probably need...(or garage supplies with their mark-up)

an air filter
Oil filter
Oil
Spark plugs
Coolant
Some section of the nearside driveshaft/CV joint

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not much time today, but enough to see that the expansion tank is now almost empty of coolant (and what a rusty old tank it is). So it hasn't lost all its water at least.

Here's the thing though, the car was in daily use supposedly with the previous owner, and I more or less believe that as I couldn't take the car until the new one had arrived (a Pug 107 as it happens) and the owner had also previously posted in the FB group that it was a day to day car. So, I guess I have just got unlucky, or they were topping it up every day/week.

Reminds me a bit of my Mondy GLX which I drove home and then shat it's coolant all over the road. But I'm determined to get this sorted. I'm just trying not to think Ghosty-HGF thoughts...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, egg said:

Not much time today, but enough to see that the expansion tank is now almost empty of coolant (and what a rusty old tank it is). So it hasn't lost all its water at least.

Here's the thing though, the car was in daily use supposedly with the previous owner, and I more or less believe that as I couldn't take the car until the new one had arrived (a Pug 107 as it happens) and the owner had also previously posted in the FB group that it was a day to day car. So, I guess I have just got unlucky, or they were topping it up every day/week.

Reminds me a bit of my Mondy GLX which I drove home and then shat it's coolant all over the road. But I'm determined to get this sorted. I'm just trying not to think Ghosty-HGF thoughts...

My worst nightmare is finding a coolant leak on my Metro. You know, head gaskets and that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Indeed.

I guess many K-series cars have covered many millions of miles without head gasket failure, but when an engine is 29 year's old, it would almost be better to know it has failed and been fixed! From what I have read, the 1.1 seems the least likely to do it though.

I also noticed rain water has got on to the scuttle (under the bonnet vent) driver's side, so another issue to address.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

from memory rover radio wiring colours are thus

blue, green, orange & grey- 4 pairs with trace on one of each colour = speakers

brown or purple= perm 12v+

red= switched 12v

black= earth

orange?= lighting circuit for display illumination/dimming

 

take a pic of loom and it might jog my memory betterer

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/21/2020 at 8:17 PM, egg said:

Indeed! And I've done it on my Mondeo too with an OEM part for less than a tenner....but on the little Metro...

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-JGM100090

43648-Large.jpg

https://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk/austin-metro-heater-fan-resistor-afp5072.html

 

For example.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, egg said:

Thanks, I have seen that one too, but I thought it wasn't quite right as connectors on the resistor look to be in a different place?

 

It wouldn't bother me. I can't imagine BL/ Rover launching an R and D exercise and development of a new heater control for a metro which is largely taken from the old metro. But then that's probably why I have an excessive amount of parts bought that don't fit.

It's the chase, if it works then how awesome would that be? I have to do this stuff every time one of my 3 cars gets a problem or pay a ransom.

I thought VW used something similar too in the 80's/ 90's, I'd even throw one of those on!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...