Jump to content

HFM small autos - Cookie's adventures in shiteing


Cookiesouwest

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Another day, another Disco fault.

I can confirm now that the front suspension drops, if the car is left for a couple of days.

Front nearside carpet is soaking. When left overnight pointing up hill, the rear nearside gets wet and when opening back door, water pours out.

Likely to be a sunroof drain, so I have taken the easy option for now and resorted to duck tape.

20221109_114640.thumb.jpg.f0c2214bb6fc10a59c66e643e70965f2.jpg

But those are old faults.

The new fault is when turning hard right, the front left wheel shudders and the suspension warning light flashes.

Its off to the garage next Weds for a once over. If the mechanic reckons its generally speaking a good car, it will get some love. If he says its a bad un, it gets kicked off fleet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Cookiesouwest changed the title to Low cost, high liability - The Disco of faults - Cookie's adventures in shiteing
On 26/10/2022 at 13:11, horriblemercedes said:

When I had one of these (well, mine was a 4), I'm sure it released the parking brake if you wanted to go. You didn't have to turn it off yourself

You can do this, but don't.

As the car starts to roll it wears the handbrake shoes until they fully retract, and puts extra strain on the already fragile mechanism. They areΒ fuckingΒ expensive to put right when the system lets go, so it's better to turn the handbrake off with the footbrake holding the car and then move off a second later.Β 

Also, the handbrake release/apply should not make a "screeeeeeeeeeek" noise, it should just go "screeek" instead - if the sound goes on for too long then it's out of adjustment which also wears out the mechanism, and should be adjusted to make the same noise but for less time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mechanic report is in.Β 

After an extensive test drive and time on the ramp.

Inner passenger tie rod needs replacement.

Possible engine mount (needs more investigation but not urgent).

Slight brake judder at 70mph.

No signs of air leaks. Possible easy fix. He will send me a video of what to do.

So besides the internal pond and the obvious LR chance of it totally shitting itself, it seems a good one.

Therefore some love will be administered.

Booked into garage for next week, for the tie rod :)

48 quid well spent.

A 50% increase in his hourly rate, but still cheap.

Β 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Balls. Kinda spoke too soon.

Mrs just phoned. Commuting home from work.

Error message, of suspension fault and 30mph max speed.

One life. Live it in fear of a new fault every day.

It may be something as easy to remedy as a new battery.

Although that does not make the suspension sink.

Possibly more than one fault exists.

So I'm buying a LR code reader.Β 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also front suspension dropping is probably the front valve block needs stripping and rebuilding with new seals - IF it always pumps straight back up and IF the air reservoir holds air so the pump doesn’t run for too long I’dΒ not worry too much about it. It’s when the whole system inc reservoir loses air overnight - that’sΒ when you start burning pumps out as it has to run flat out to build pressure from zero all the time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, Gaffer said:

Also front suspension dropping is probably the front valve block needs stripping and rebuilding with new seals - IF it always pumps straight back up and IF the air reservoir holds air so the pump doesn’t run for too long I’dΒ not worry too much about it. It’s when the whole system inc reservoir loses air overnight - that’sΒ when you start burning pumps out as it has to run flat out to build pressure from zero all the time.

I suspect valve block too. After some you tube sleuthing.

Sadly a long way from Doncaster.

I'm going to invest in a icarsoft LR v3.

I know its not a IID, but reviews seem pretty good. Will do everything I will ever need.

Just took it out for a spin. No faults lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haven’t had much to do with the icarsoft, people were using an Autel dongle with decent success at some point although I’m not sure if it’s still available? A search on Disco3.com might give more info.

If you everΒ end up this way I’ll have the workshop open and the kettle on!

Land Rovers - great but shit but greatΒ πŸ˜„

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update

Disco - Garage gave it the once over. Besides a worn bush and disc wobble when braking hard at 70mph, mechanic gave it a clean bill of health. Its going back next week for the bush to be sorted.

Mechanic believes sinking front suspension is valve lock, as suspected.

Honda CRV - failed MOT as main beam not working. Its not the bulb, its an electrical issue. Garage can't fix. Trying to find an auto electrician who can investigate before the free retest window closes.

Mondeo - Still being mundane reliable transport. Still need to find someone to do the gearbox fluid change.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume the fuses are all good?Β 

Does flash-to-pass work? Also try flicking it between main beam & flash-to-pass rapidly, this will clean the contacts.Β 

Check the main beam relay clicks when going to main beam and/or flashing. No idea where it lives though.

Can't imagine it's much as the first gen CRVs are simple cars electrically.

@twosmoke300 may have a few ideas being he is our Honda Professional on here.Β 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/18/2022 at 4:37 PM, twosmoke300 said:

Bulbs first , then double check the bulb connections .Β 
Then I’d be looking at the relay .

Β 

Quick query.

Main beam on drivers side does not work when main headlights are on. This is why it failed mot.

But when I'm on side lights, main beam works fine (both sides).

Can't be earth. Would relay do this?

Apologies but I'm a numpty when it comes to electrics.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, Cookiesouwest said:

Quick query.

Main beam on drivers side does not work when main headlights are on. This is why it failed mot.

But when I'm on side lights, main beam works fine (both sides).

Can't be earth. Would relay do this?

Apologies but I'm a numpty when it comes to electrics.

Without knowing the actual circuits, this is suggesting that the headlamp flash is fed separately from the main/dip relayΒ - check the fuses first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...