Spurious Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Having never touched a kettle series HG but with my former job hat on a stretch bolt's proper name is a torque to yield bolt. They've undergone plastic deformation and yielded. That is, they ain't never going back to their original shape once torqued (that's if they've been torqued to spec in the first place). We used to replace them all the time in my old job. Now granted it's a lot different when you weren't paying for them but I can't imagine they're expensive? Especially for the hassle of a head gasket replacement... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eyersey1234 Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Looks a nice 25 you have got, and even. If it does turn out to be fucked you can't lose much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 7, 2020 Author Share Posted January 7, 2020 If I ever do do a head gasket I will buy a good quality gasket and new bolts. The effort required to dismantle that much of an engine justifies not scrimping. Whether this particular car would be worth it is the question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
St.Jude Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 I bought a Rover 25 last year to break for the engine. But I drove it around a bit first before I SORN'ed it. Lovely car, I could see myself buying another one to actually drive properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarvinsMom Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Rover 25, amd the earlier 200 bubble is a really nice motor, when they work. had one for 18 months, a Rover 25 in tahiti blue bought cheap as a stop gap. it did the inevitable OMGHGF which i did get get changed for a good quality one. but after been done, the car wasn't right cause it was pressurising the water jacket in no time when it was running. we never did get to the bottom of it, as i got rid and replaced it with Marvin the Metro. we think it was the saab valve in the back of the rats nest of pipes behind the engine that was to blame. kerry has a 214 which apart from very crusty wheel arches was also a nice car, funnily enough when that too did a OMGHGF it repaired eine. oddly enough it was before mine did the same thing, and as such we used the same repair kit on mine..... i'd have another one, but i'd only be prepared to trust a diesel, i've been burn't once with a petrol kettle so don't want to do that again! anyway here was mine, George, now long gone according to the mot thing. along with some dat tart stood in the way spartacus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarvinsMom Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 17 hours ago, barmatt said: The heater controls are shite in these as Dan302 said, also the knobs tend to become brittle inside and crumble rendering them useless. They're currently selling for between £10-£20 each on ebay. Similar age Honda knobs sell for about £2 and are exactly the same. Gratuitous pic of the Gti that will be up for sale soonish... *Edited to say, It sounds like your knobs are fine (fnar). is that the one that Mr Bollocks did the head gasket on some time ago? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotball Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 21 hours ago, barmatt said: The heater controls are shite in these as Dan302 said, also the knobs tend to become brittle inside and crumble rendering them useless. They're currently selling for between £10-£20 each on ebay. Similar age Honda knobs sell for about £2 and are exactly the same. Gratuitous pic of the Gti that will be up for sale soonish... *Edited to say, It sounds like your knobs are fine (fnar). I can only imagine the embarrassment and shame when ur MOT tester tells you that the tax has ran out. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 7, 2020 Author Share Posted January 7, 2020 Now taxed and insured. Took it for a drive. SRS light immediately came on. Heater still cold. Very noisy rear wheel bearing. The brakes work but need a quite a hard shove. If SWMBO is going to drive it then I need them to have more bite. My guess is that if the sliding calipers are freed up and some softer pads put in it will be fine. Apart from these minor issues it was fine. It's quite a torquey motor. I notice that you can just about manoeuvre it around on idle without pressing the accelerator (like a diesel); this is also useful because that's how SWMBO drives. The clutch is maybe a little on the heavy side, despite having a long throw, and is also slightly spongy feeling; but I think all PG1 gearbox cars seem to be like that. Rob's 1.8 Freelander was worse. For a small car it's comfortable and easy to drive. I also ordered a used header tank with a sensor in it on ebay from the runout model. I think a low coolant sensor is something that all cars should have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 7, 2020 Author Share Posted January 7, 2020 looking at the Rimmer site it seems that mine actually has the IB5 gearbox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan302 Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 I found the brakes on my 1.4 (83bhp model) were a bit shite, seem to think they were on the diesel too, solid discs and rear drums iirc. Pretty sure higher spec ones were vented? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayts450 Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Well worth adjusting up the rear drums as they slacken off over time and if the brake fluid is manky renew that too. Rover calipers do also have a habit of seizing up (a Honda legacy thing). The brakes have never been especially razor sharp on the SWise, but after making those tweaks they felt much more 'brake-y'. Clutch does seem to be quite heavy with the Ford IB5 gearbox - you do have to input a little throttle on mine when in slow traffic otherwise you tend to get a bit of mini kangarooing. Is yours the 84 or 103 bhp model ? Well worth doing the throttle body upgrade if the former as it does unlock an extra second or two in the 0-60 time, and feels a bit more responsive higher up the rev range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 7, 2020 Author Share Posted January 7, 2020 It's a 1.6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayts450 Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 D'oh... (hands Rover badge in at desk and wanders off muttering) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 DMGRS are a good source of parts. Also they have some good helpful info bits. Especially when it comes to getting correct gasket if the HGF should occur ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skut Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Replacing the caliper pins helps with crap brakes. The rubber boots tend to split and let the grease out and then the pins seize. You can buy them as a kit on egay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-ZR-2001-2005-2x-FRONT-BRAKE-CALIPER-SLIDER-PINS-GUIDE-BOLT-KITS-BCF1324HX2/231697105474?fits=Model%3AMG+ZR&epid=12004451544&hash=item35f2394242:g:hfYAAOSwsMxczBu5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Hunt Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 18 hours ago, Spurious said: Having never touched a kettle series HG but with my former job hat on a stretch bolt's proper name is a torque to yield bolt. They've undergone plastic deformation and yielded. That is, they ain't never going back to their original shape once torqued (that's if they've been torqued to spec in the first place). We used to replace them all the time in my old job. Now granted it's a lot different when you weren't paying for them but I can't imagine they're expensive? Especially for the hassle of a head gasket replacement... Absolutely correct dear Chap. BUT, if you want to take a flyer, I dropped the head off, cleaned head face and block with Wet’n’dry and WD40, popped an elastomer gasket on, re-used the head bolts. That was in 2014 and 50k miles ago. Supposed to do and Absolute Need to do can be a country mile apart if you fancy some Autoshite Mechanicing Spurious 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 7, 2020 Author Share Posted January 7, 2020 34 minutes ago, Skut said: Replacing the caliper pins helps with crap brakes. The rubber boots tend to split and let the grease out and then the pins seize. You can buy them as a kit on egay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-ZR-2001-2005-2x-FRONT-BRAKE-CALIPER-SLIDER-PINS-GUIDE-BOLT-KITS-BCF1324HX2/231697105474?fits=Model%3AMG+ZR&epid=12004451544&hash=item35f2394242:g:hfYAAOSwsMxczBu5 Thanks it seems that I have to check whether it has vented or solid discs before I order them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 7, 2020 Author Share Posted January 7, 2020 Folks; will it do any harm to anything to chuck some ground up dishwasher tablets in the cooling system, run it up till it's hot and then hose it all out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bstardchild Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 3 hours ago, dieselnutjob said: Folks; will it do any harm to anything to chuck some ground up dishwasher tablets in the cooling system, run it up till it's hot and then hose it all out? It won't do any harm but to be honest I've always found on K series equiped cars (that I get asked to "diagnose" the matrix gets blocked by OMHGFSMNG (Oh My God Head Gasket Failure Save Me Now Gunk) that's added to the cooling circuit I'd be back and forwards flushing the matrix a few times - I normally get no movement at all with full mains pressure in either direction and then a little trickle followed by something out of ghostbusters that is ejected at force and coats everything within 2 feet of eject point - spending approx the next two hours dripping off very slowly and depositing itself on the drive like little jelly fish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauldoubleyou Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 YAy kseries. My favourite. Plugs are from the airbag and SRS plugs under the front seats. You will probably find someone has chopped them and soldered / joined the wires. The plugs are crap and commonly throw the SRS and Airbag lights on due to poor connections. Ill put a cuppa on your SRS light being one of the connections being poor. They need a good clean up, solder and heatshrink. You shouldnt need to flush the coolant out, header tank looks alright tbh. Just water in the oil. If you try and fit the header with a sensor it wont work unless the ECu is MEMs3. You could wire one in yourself or just keep an eye on it. HG has gone putting water in the oil. Lack of coolant in the system has lead to cold fans. The heater matrix is the highest point in the system so once its empty its difficult to fill it back up with water again, causing an airlock usually. If theres only air in the heater matrix it wont get hot. Theres plenty of tricks to the coolant refill on these, google them all. Generally just slow and steady. Did you ever find out 'what she has done before' message in the glovebox meant? Great cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 On 1/8/2020 at 10:56 AM, pauldoubleyou said: If you try and fit the header with a sensor it wont work unless the ECu is MEMs3. You could wire one in yourself or just keep an eye on it. I did this before with a friends Rover 45. I added a tank from a runout model with a sensor and wired the sensor in parallel with the brake fluid sensor. Therefore if the brake warning light comes on it means that you are either low of brake fluid OR coolant. Yes the car has a MEMS3. Does that mean that there is a "proper" way to wire it in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 Here are some photos of the other side of the car I think that the wing has been sprayed with rattle can or something The door is knackered. I'm guessing that good Rover 25 doors are not expensive. If the car proves to be reliable I might sort these out. There are also four holes in the bumper for reversing sensors but no sensors. This morning I go the car up in the air and had a look underneath. It's very clean underneath, no rust or damage at all. The engine and gearbox are also completely dry underneath. My mechanic mate said that there's nothing wrong with the oil or coolant and not to worry about OMGHG until there is better evidence of it. Here is the status of the other problems:- Wheel bearing: turned out to be not wheel bearing. In fact the lad that sold me the car hadn't tightened the wheel nuts on either rear wheel. FIXED. Heater: topped up coolant. Warmed engine. Drove to shops and back in 1st gear. Heater now works. FIXED. Front brakes: The sliders slide. We checked them. However it needs discs and pads:- We also found a CV boot that has been fitted badly:- I am told that a zip tie isn't correct, and the metal one on the other side is nearly falling off. New clips, brake discs and pads are on order. The other thing that strikes me about this car is that for such a small car the pedals are really nicely spaced. It was no problem to drive it in steel toe cap boots. Nice. Skut 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 I think I have a spare set of parking sensors somewhere, if I come across it you’re welcome to it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bezzabsa Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 perhaps there was an air bubble somewhere in the lines... don't think the 1.6 are quite as explodable as the 1.4's .. But I must admit i have no previous experience of a 25.. had a couple of older shape ones, and they were fine - apart from snapping driveshafts on passenger side?????? wouldn't worry about the exterior if you're running it in that there London.. will soon gain a afew battle scars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 did these have "factory" reverse sensors? My guess is that at some point the rear bumper got destroyed and a used one was fitted from a car that had had a kit fitted. Probably I will need the whole kit with control box and sensors. Not a bad idea as I have gotten used to them on the Jag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 2 minutes ago, dieselnutjob said: did these have "factory" reverse sensors? My guess is that at some point the rear bumper got destroyed and a used one was fitted from a car that had had a kit fitted. Probably I will need the whole kit with control box and sensors. Not a bad idea as I have gotten used to them on the Jag I doubt they had factory ones - I meant an aftermarket kit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 26 minutes ago, Kiltox said: I doubt they had factory ones - I meant an aftermarket kit! well thank you. If you have a spare kit then I will have it. Can pay you something or give something to charity or whatever you like Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan302 Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 37 minutes ago, dieselnutjob said: The other thing that strikes me about this car is that for such a small car the pedals are really nicely spaced. It was no problem to drive it in steel toe cap boots. Nice. I've had 2, a 1.4 and I diesel. I found them really comfortable even on long journeys I'd definitely have another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barefoot Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 1 hour ago, Dan302 said: I found them really comfortable even on long journeys I'd definitely have another. Was that the seats or the ride or both? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 I found the factory wiring for the low coolant sensor. There are a couple of things though. Do my instruments even have the bulb? Is my BCU programmed to support this sensor? the diagram only shows one side of the sensor, is the other pin connected to earth or +12V? There is also a pin 62 on the MEMS3 that is that is supposed to connect to an "overheat warning lamp". I might short that to ground and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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