dieselnutjob Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 Also there was a factory reversing sensor option Kiltox 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan302 Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 57 minutes ago, barefoot said: Was that the seats or the ride or both? Both, plenty of space, all the controls seemed to be just where I wanted them with good pedal spacing. I struggle in a lot of cars as I'm usually 18-20st, only 5'8 and with long arms and short legs! Ride always felt compliant too, not over stuff like most cars are now. barefoot 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 The factory way of doing a low coolant light is not possible (well not easily) Pin 16 of the connector is not populated. I will just have to wire in parallel with one of the others. I took the opportunity to do the Pektron SCU inversion mod:- the reason for turning it upside down is that a lot of these suffered from water getting through the bulkhead grommet, dripping down the loom and getting into the ECU. Turning it upside down so that the wires go in from underneath stops that from ever happening. Skut and clayts450 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayts450 Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 Good call on up-ending the Pektron unit. However, it's the cheap relays within the unit which have a tendency to go pop, causing strange electronic things, such as non functioning or ever-present horns, no rear fog lights, dicey central locking etc etc. Also I would check the wiring loom which feeds down the driver's side of the boot hinge - there's usually some fraying action there which causes interesting weirdness with ensuing hilarity*. CV boots and drop links tend to go for fun on these, and a job I need to do - just ordered some boots from these guys, https://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/ delivered in 2 days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 1 hour ago, clayts450 said: Good call on up-ending the Pektron unit. However, it's the cheap relays within the unit which have a tendency to go pop, causing strange electronic things, such as non functioning or ever-present horns, no rear fog lights, dicey central locking etc etc. Also I would check the wiring loom which feeds down the driver's side of the boot hinge - there's usually some fraying action there which causes interesting weirdness with ensuing hilarity*. CV boots and drop links tend to go for fun on these, and a job I need to do - just ordered some boots from these guys, https://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/ delivered in 2 days. Relays can be replaced. Water damage is not so easy. It seems that everything works one mine. That for the tip on the boot hinge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skut Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 Even when you have got the low coolant indicator it can be a bit of a pain. A corner taken too energetically in mine will slosh the coolant around and the float jams at a lower position setting off the light even though its now submerged. Mines been illuminated for a month or so. Your 25 is really quite nice. Does it have electric rear windows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 25 minutes ago, Skut said: Even when you have got the low coolant indicator it can be a bit of a pain. A corner taken too energetically in mine will slosh the coolant around and the float jams at a lower position setting off the light even though its now submerged. Mines been illuminated for a month or so. Your 25 is really quite nice. Does it have electric rear windows? Electric front Electric sunroof Front fogs Electric adjustable mirrors Keep fit rear windows No A/C Steering wheel stereo controls Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayts450 Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 Electric rear windows tended to be the preserve of the obscure GSi/SEi spec they introduced with the Mk2 25s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 11, 2020 Author Share Posted January 11, 2020 Drove into Central London last night and it did well. The only fly in the ointment is that SWMBO says that it makes her sick. I think that this is because she is used to cars with soft suspension. My Jag has air suspension and I deliberately have one of the smaller wheel sizes on it, and her Freelander is fairly compliant too. The 25 isn't. You do feel every bump in it. Did they by any chance just put ZR suspension on everything on the later models? Is it because it's a 1.6? What would be the softest sprung 25 that I could look out for in a scrappy to steal the suspension from? Also I need to see what the tyre pressures are, they might be harder than necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heidel_Kakao Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 Festnight Tractor Seat with Suspension Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07H57SZ7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oNBgEbYA4S8Q7 Just fit one of these for her, job jobbed The Moog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan302 Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 I never found the suspension stiff on mine but they were low spec models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 11, 2020 Author Share Posted January 11, 2020 anyone knows how Rover 200 R3 suspension compares with R25? This article https://www.aronline.co.uk/cars/rover/200-25/the-cars-rover-20025-and-mg-zr/ appears to suggest that the 25 got what was considered "sports" suspension on the R3 but as standard. Maybe a set of R3 springs all round would give a softer ride? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan302 Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 Would steel wheels with a taller tyre side wall help? Both of mine were on steels, 14" if I recall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 11, 2020 Author Share Posted January 11, 2020 The more I read about it the more I come to the conclusion that Rover tuned the R25 suspension at the 1999 facelift (from the R3) to give it more "youf" appeal, and that this is what the problem is. Dan302 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skut Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 The 25 got the suspension settings from the range topping 200 Vi. ZR is lower and stiffer again. Taller sidewalls as others have said will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 Last night I let the tyres down to 28 psi and SWMBO says it is now acceptable. The Moog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 Another thing on the to-do list is the clutch mechanism. The A40 went from three lanes to one on an uphill stretch last night that took about 20 minutes and it was purgatory. The clutch is quite heavy but I think that there is also a stiffness there as well. I need to take the pedal and release mechanism apart, free everything up, grease it and re-assemble. I believe that this car has the gearbox with Ford internals (the IB5). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 18, 2020 Author Share Posted January 18, 2020 Progress this week:- Fitted header tank with a level sensor in it but not wired it up yet. Changed front discs and pads. It seems slightly better but I suspect that the drums are not adjusting properly, the handbrake lever comes up very high and the pedal still has a slight movement before it does anything. I checked the vacuum booster and it seems to work, but the brakes still don't have as much "bite" as I would like. I guess some new fluid would be a good idea too. Took the entire clutch release mechanism and pedal to bits. Greased the cable and the pedal and worked some spray grease into the pivot on the gearbox. I think that it is quite a bit nicer. Figured out why the airbag warning light is on:- so it seems that the previous owner preferred the seats in this car to the ones in his new 200/25 and so swapped them. The only problem is that the connectors are different. He seems to have chopped the connectors off of his new car and put them in the glovebox so it shouldn't be too hard to sort out. I'm now curious what seats this car is supposed to have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselnutjob Posted January 18, 2020 Author Share Posted January 18, 2020 anyone live near Choppington ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223470399422 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauldoubleyou Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 I did this before with a friends Rover 45. I added a tank from a runout model with a sensor and wired the sensor in parallel with the brake fluid sensor. Therefore if the brake warning light comes on it means that you are either low of brake fluid OR coolant. Yes the car has a MEMS3. Does that mean that there is a "proper" way to wire it in?I think so yes, I’m sure they had a new warning light on the dash, and the plug may even be there in the loom but working it out is something I’ve never tried. I noticed your post about the seats, what seats are in it now?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Hunt Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 On 1/6/2020 at 7:51 PM, Isaac Hunt said: The contents of the glovebox look like the under seat connections that control the SRS system. there are two different types, yellow and blue. One is early and the other late, but I can't remember which way around. i 'happened across' a nice set of half leather Monaco stsyle seats when down the scrappy, so I them and changed the seats in ours. It was at that point I came across the different colour connectors. I just chopped the connects off and used chocky blocks. The connectors are a known trouble spot causing the SRS light to display on the dash. if you look under your front seats a, you may well find the connector she have been chopped out. 17 hours ago, dieselnutjob said: Progress this week:- Fitted header tank with a level sensor in it but not wired it up yet. Changed front discs and pads. It seems slightly better but I suspect that the drums are not adjusting properly, the handbrake lever comes up very high and the pedal still has a slight movement before it does anything. I checked the vacuum booster and it seems to work, but the brakes still don't have as much "bite" as I would like. I guess some new fluid would be a good idea too. Took the entire clutch release mechanism and pedal to bits. Greased the cable and the pedal and worked some spray grease into the pivot on the gearbox. I think that it is quite a bit nicer. Figured out why the airbag warning light is on:- so it seems that the previous owner preferred the seats in this car to the ones in his new 200/25 and so swapped them. The only problem is that the connectors are different. He seems to have chopped the connectors off of his new car and put them in the glovebox so it shouldn't be too hard to sort out. I'm now curious what seats this car is supposed to have. I'm gonna buy a lottery ticket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now