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Kiltox

FEB: Rover 75 Tourer! - 2020: The Year of (mostly) Terrible Cars - A Shit(e) Odyssey

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No thanks 😂  Is that even how that works, I know it’s a way around having dodgy seat belts etc but surely the prescribed area doesn’t change just because there isn’t currently a belt attached to the anchorage 

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5 minutes ago, Kiltox said:

No thanks 😂  Is that even how that works, I know it’s a way around having dodgy seat belts etc but surely the prescribed area doesn’t change just because there isn’t currently a belt attached to the anchorage 

If there is no seat then there is no requirement for a seatbelt.

If there is no seatbelt then there is no prescribed area for your rust to exist in.

Therefore it's the same as having a bit of rust in the middle of your door or somewhere else, and as long as there are no sharp edges then it's not an MOT fail.

Having not seen the area in detail it is possible that the rust exists in an area that is within 30cm of another prescribed component in which case it would fail regardless. But for £300 just get it fixed and keep the car until 2027.

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26 minutes ago, Kiltox said:

26ED5189-5999-448D-B345-91193C32F469.thumb.png.1e5ed56c47e1a9f49bb4fa33833261a6.png
Never been so pleased with a failure! 😆 

I can imagine. That's good for a 200 quid motor. Clearly has been loved for most of its life. 300 for welding is a bit on the steep side though.

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Just now, Craig the Princess said:

I know welding jobs always get bigger when you get into them but £300 does seem a bit steep.

Not if it’s new sills both sides!! Pics please Kiltox. Extra points for screwdriver video! 

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Just back from a 1000 mile round trip delivering the modern Clio and collecting April’s car. 

Thanks to @320touring for support vehicle duties making sure I didn’t get stuck in the middle of nowhere, @kinkersaab for making selling a tidy late model car even easier than selling to WBAC and @Saabnut for helping with the anonymous new vehicle you definitely don’t already know the identity of 

I am bloody knackered!

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Basically it should work automatically in weather/temp like this.

As its a diesel that takes ages to warm up, this kicks into life below 4 degrees (I think) and you get heat virtually straight away

The heater is this bit in front of the battery, that's the exhaust vent for it,

image.thumb.png.a337056f283d815f149f31bf34b77a85.png

There is a separate pump by the rear wheel arch, but all cars I believe have wiring/pipework installed. Its just if it has these two parts as well. If not its almost plug and play.

Some of the later ones had timers in the central armrest, but believe these can also be retro fitted.

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Some light reading for you from the Rover 75 forum.

 

Have a read through this thread which gives all the info on how to fit it, worth reading from around post #79 onwards lol.gif

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...bh+text&page=8

Also my FBH retrofit thread where you can see where I put the GSM relay unit.

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=230123

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43 minutes ago, Kiltox said:

Someone in the comments just noticed that the mileage decreases by 1 after the battery is off and back on - how is that even possible?!

OMG KLOCKED YO

Your plan to become a millionaire by clocking moon mileage cars back by an afternoon's walk has been rumbled! 

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