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sutty2006

Infrared collection thread. Engines out! update 27.1.20

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I couldn’t resist making a start. Albeit not very much. The tyres don’t hold air, so I’ve taken the rear wheels off to take to work tomorrow. If I can stop them leaking air for the time being, I’m happy. It runs so it can be moved, there’s nothing worse than having a lump of iron on the drive with 4 flat tyres. Looks like both rear springs have snapped. I remember YP06 CXC had both rear springs broken. It’s a good job I’m buying lowering springs soon! Lol. Both hand brake mechanisms have come off with a large pry bar, so the tears are free for now. 

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I recently found someone up in Leyland who breaks STs for a living. Nice bloke. Bought a full Powerflow exhaust (most genuine ford systems rot and fall off, including the one on this car) so it was a good plan to buy it, right? I also picked up some new boot plastics, a full jack kit (which was missing) another boot carpet etc. 
 

so today while the sun was out* I started pulling the old exhaust off. Two nuts on the flanges rounded off and two came off easy.... haven’t got my rounded but removers on me so that was game over on that count. With the front end up in the air I checked a few things over. It appears both crank seals (front and rear) are leaking (common V6 problem) along with a leak from the oil filter housing and evidence of a water leak at the front. Plus, with the motor running there is a little excess travel in the clutch.... and on that bomb shell I’ve decided to take the motor out complete with box attached. That way I can address all the jobs in one hit as the V6 engines are shit to work on while in situ. Spending currently sits around the £700 mark and I recon another 700 to get it anywhere near. The front crash bar is toast, tow eye threads have been ripped out and it’s bent. I did have one spare somewhere but I can’t find it, probably binned it years ago. 

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In this episode we strip the front suspension down. 
 

A fairly simple job,  with it being a Mondeo. The front struts are removed. Despite looking crusty nothing was seized and fell apart beautifully. More parts added to the list - Top mounts, ARB links, lower arms. 
 

the front crank seal looks easy enough to do in situ. So I’ve got a question. Is it easier to remove the gearbox on its own, or do I continue with removing the whole lump? I can’t see much from the top, it’s a mess of pipes and bullshit. Will I have to drop the subframe? Etc etc 

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The grenade got thrown in today and parts started to come off. There’s a mixed opinion on the best way to get this lump out. Some say it goes up, some say it goes down. I’ve removed the front slam panel, Radiators and most of the pipework etc. Gear linkages disconnected, air con pipes removed and started disconnected. Apart from a few stubborn pipes and the drive shafts, it’s all pretty much off. Parts added to list - Driveshafts, water pump and belt, aux belt, plugs n leads, rocker cover gaskets. List getting bigger by the day! 
 

if anyone knows how that silver pipe disconnects I’d be grateful to know, there was a clip round it, but it’s in there.......

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What better way to spend your birthday than pulling an engine out. It wasn’t that hard really. Normally when I drag an engine out it’s for scrap but I’ve pulled this one out with the intention of putting it back in. It’s dirty in there, and I’ve not bothered doing any more. It’s out so I can start a fresh another day. Weather deepening etc 

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The rest of my 4 days off weather forcast is rain, today its moist but no rain as such, just a bit of drizzle. So I wanted to get on with it and haul its ass out. Now i can remove the gearbox to do the rear crank seal, and money permitting chuck a new clutch in. Dont want to leave it too long else I might forget where things go lol

 

I'll probably drop the subframe off and blast it, then give it a lick of paint before it all goes back together.

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More work done today due to sunshine bay open. Gearbox removed. Various bell housing bolts already loose or missing. Removed clutch. LUK so not cheap Chinese shit but looks about 3/4 worn. Now came the hard bit. Checking flywheel. Trucks don’t have dual mass flywheels so a bit of youtubing came up with measuring the teeth from the raised dimples. Anything over 5 and it’s nackered. New are about 2/3. I measure 2 teeth, so this flywheel is going back on. Rear crank seal removed using the screw method. And then cleaned everything up. Genuine ford seal probably wasn’t a good idea 😂

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