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New shitter. 1982 Citroen VISA.


Lankytim

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7 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

Quite a lot of HT leads aren't just a wire in the interests of reducing the RFI thrown off by the ignition system.  Some use a resistor actually in the cap at one end, but quite a few actually use a carbon composite material for the conductor itself.  Not honestly sure how they would test on a meter, especially bearing in mind a lot of cheaper meters don't have a particularly high impedance measurement range.

ah interesting, would be interesting to measure a fresh lead :) 

(I cant imagine you would want too high a resistance or you would impede the spark etc)

Im guessing these carbon leads are normally found on more modern vehicles where RFI was more an issue?

I know Dolly  ( @Mrs6C's Model 70)  at some point lost the spark plug end on one of its HT leads so the previous owner just stripped the insulation back and used a nut on the end of the spark plug to secure the wire to the spark plug like a normal screw post, and the wire itself looked like a regular wire just enclosed in thick high voltage insulation (as you would hope for a HT lead!)

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6 hours ago, wuvvum said:

/\ Bloody hell that beige Club is tempting... 

Does your trade policy include the EU?!

Can't add anything of use to this, but I'm watching from the sidelines hopeful the new leads will help...

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7 hours ago, shedenvy said:

May be try cranking it over at night time and see if you can see a myriad of electrotricity going everywhere except where it's supposed to.

Asked me Mum & Dad to look out for anything local and this little gem came up:

https://www.leboncoin.fr/voitures/1732698002.htm/

You already have brown, beige for the full autoshite livery.

400 euro. Anyone interested had better be quick before Jaques Cloche from le AutoMerde forum snaps it up. 

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It's *nearly* running!  AKA it's still not running.

It's got a lovely fat spark (hurrah!!)  and fuel, tries to fire up but just can't quite make it.  It's also managed to draw fuel up from the fuel tank via the mechanical fuel pump so it's now on it's own tank rather than a green petrol can and electric pump. I have a vague recollection of reading that the engine on these won't run without the air filter housing fitted, which I'd been doing all along like a complete twAt. With the air filter housing fitted it did seem to help things quite a bit. There's some sort of air operated valve with two pipes to it on the air filter housing and one of the pipes from it isn't connected to anything and I can't see where it goes, it's probably nothing but could be causing a vacuum leak and stopping the engine from running. I'll do some research and see where it goes. It might be the last piece of the puzzle. I'm at least satisfied that the Visa will run run with a little more fettling and hasn't got some sort of electrical issue that i'll never get my head around. 

The Visa is being A framed to a mates place to get welded up tomorrow and will be gone for a couple of months I expect, he might get the pleasure of actually getting it going and taking it for a spin. More to come!

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9 hours ago, shedenvy said:

May be try cranking it over at night time and see if you can see a myriad of electrotricity going everywhere except where it's supposed to.

Asked me Mum & Dad to look out for anything local and this little gem came up:

https://www.leboncoin.fr/voitures/1732698002.htm/

You already have brown, beige for the full autoshite livery.

go away for a weekend or this

can you fro now please :D

@Six-cylinder - remember me?? :D

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23 minutes ago, jonathan_dyane said:

Sorry its yellow, good description  of the vacuum hosing from Jeroen Cats excellent site:

Carburettor and vacuum piping

The 652 engine vacuum piping. Depending on the engine and carb type there are different layouts. 

Solex
Most important is the tube running from the front bottom of the carb to the vacuum sensor. On the right rear corner of the carb there are 2 more hoses, a thick and a thin one. The thick one goes to the damper on the choke valve. The thin one goes to the front connection of the rubber elbow on top of the carb. This last one isn't absolutely necessary but when it isn't connected, the connection on the carb has to be closed to prevent it from sucking in air. On top of the carb lid there is a hole with a thick hose on it. The same hole can be found on the 602 carb but without the hose. When leaving of the hose on the 652 fuel will come out of the hole when going from full throttle to no throttle at high rpm. The hose is connected to the intake to make sure the fuel always gets sucked back into the engine. Leaving off the hose will increase the risk of under bonnet fires and will give a smell of petrol. The rest of the hoses isn't needed.

Weber
Most important is the tube running from the front bottom of the carb to the vacuum sensor. On the rear of the carb there are 2 more hoses. The top one is connected to the damper on the choke valve. The bottom one is connected to either one of the hoses from the rubber elbow on top of the carb. This last one isn't absolutely necessary but when it isn't connected, the connection on the carb has to closed to prevent it from sucking in air. The rest of the hoses isn't needed, which will leave you with one hose from the rubber elbow unconnected to anything.

De-yellowed for the sake of everyone’s eyes.

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A framed this thing the 30 or so miles to the body shop. A fettle and a drag around on the A didn't get any sign of life from the engine whatsoever. bastard thing. 

One thing i've noticed is the times it was trying it's best to start was then the steering colum cowling was off with all the wiring hanging out and the ignition computer was unbolted and loose on the parcel tray under the dash. After I replaced it all it wouldn't even try and fire up. The wring under the steering column had quite a few crimps holding various wires together so maybe there's a poor connection somewhere.   I didn't have time to do any investigation work as I had to get back but hopefully, in a couple of months I'll get a shiny Visa back with a nice body, even if it doesn't run. An XUD engine won't fit- I've checked. 

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13 hours ago, Lankytim said:

The inner wings and strut towers are different on the non-diesel Visas, believe it or not!

IIRC The 2 cylinder Visa has a slightly longer wheelbase than the 4 cylinder, so different wings etc. and probably subframe, don't even  think about converting.

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  • 2 months later...

LankyTim: I've just spent a long time reading through this post.  I did contribute something enthusiastic back in November 2019, but since then I have bought a Citroen Visa. It's almost identical - a Y-reg Special, in beige.
I have just about got mine running (need to add some jubilee clips to the renewed flexible fuel hoses, as there is at least one slight leak. 
As it happens, I have also recently acquired a 2002 Volvo V70  D5 as my daily....  snap! 

I'm really interested in my car's twin (the Citroen that is) and how you are getting on with it. Hopefully you have stuck with it and got it running.

20200414_133226.jpg

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  • 4 months later...
On 8/22/2020 at 11:12 PM, barrett said:

Any news on this old shed @Lankytim?

Not really, it’s still with the welder. I’m having a garage built at home so hopefully when that’s built it’ll be ready for collection. Still can’t get it to run though! 

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2 hours ago, dollywobbler said:

Sounds knackered m8. My advice is to fit a BMW bike engine.

I think these engines are worth a few £££ to 2CV perverts,  If i can't get it to run I could maybe cash in this lump and fit a regular 4 cyl petrol lump from a similar model. It would be a bit of a shame though, as I think the whizzy aircooled 2 cyl motor is one of the more appealing features of this old crock. 

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