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Which is the worst Freelander?


Garythesnail

Which Freelander is the worst second hand option?  

70 members have voted

  1. 1. Worst drivetrain

    • 1.8 petrol manual
    • 2.5 petrol auto
    • BMW diesel manual
    • BMW diesel auto
    • Rover L series diesel Manual
  2. 2. Ugliest face

  3. 3. Wrong number of doors



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Mrs_b is very tempted by a Feeelander at present.  I’m not against the idea at all. I’ve always quite liked them since my dad’s mate who worked for L-R took a pre production one home and bought it over to show little petrol head me! 

 

Well bought, looks good in black and with those wheels. 

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if you buy one you need to do a few checks.

apart from normal driving, find a steep hill or ramp and drive down the hill, half way down take your foot off of the accelerator so that the weight of the car is making the engine spin

if there are nasty noises from the transmission, walk away.

Also make sure that you drive forwards and backwards on full lock.

You will notice a little bit of resistance because on full lock the front and back axles are doing slightly different speeds, but if the car is very difficult to move on lock then the viscous coupling is no longer viscous.

Also look out for corrosion.  SWMBOs one looks okay at a glance but has needed a sill welding and the boot floor is getting bad.

Also tailgates get damaged when people reverse into things because the spare wheel hits before the bumper.  Make sure that the tailgate window will go up and down okay because that's a common failure.

On five door ones the sunroof normally won't open.  Best to disable it so that it doesn't get stuck open.  The gears always strip.

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Some good advice above from DNJ.

I kept an eye out for a 3 door because it didn't have rear doors (and the apparently quite normal broken window mechanisms) and the sunroof is a pair of simple pop-up / pop-out glass panels rather than motors, winding gears etc.

Did the full-lock test and looked underneath to see what was (and wasn't) there. Need to have a good look on a dry day to check the propshaft bearings either side of the viscous coupling as I have a small but noticable vibration at some speeds.

Time will tell if it's going to be a lemon or not and part of that is how I decide to deal with any charming* characteristics it develops and whether or not I continue to play cambelt roulette.

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Can anyone tell me what a diesel auto is like? 

Unless I'm mistaken a Freelander 1 the only way to get an automatic L series... or were all auto diesel BMW engines? 

If it does have a shagged viscous coupling and/or removed prop shaft will it still work OK as a car? 

... asking for a friend. 

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BTW for anyone moaning about HGF on the K Series Freelander, a problem that was so common that it got it's own TLA, it can't be worst than doing the same job on an MGF. I did one about 10 years ago, you gain access to it via a hatch behind the front seats. I had crippling leg pains for about a week afterwards from stretching to reach in. I did use a LR replacement headgasket though, which was a huge (like 5mm thick) composite thing, which would've compensated for even the most banana shaped head. I'm sure it lowered the compression ratio. I also cheaped out by grinding the ends of the stretch bolts, which was in retrospect an unnecessary move given how thick the gasket was.

My view 

I don't mind either body shape, they've actually aged quite well as a design, a bit like the original MINI and TT (as compared to later versions). I like K Series engines, but they're not really up to the job in such a heavy car, plus they're not ideal for the off roading that no one ever does in them. I did consider a TD4 but they were a bit risky in my view, lots of reported problems with swirl flaps etc, probably the best engine though, and still plenty running. 

The V6 is tempting, but auto only iirc, and a bit thirsty. I quite like the L Series, as it feels like a proper Land Rover engine, i.e. low tech, reliable but plodding. 

My perception is that the restyled version wasn't as good looking but was better built, especially in the cab

 

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On ‎9‎/‎25‎/‎2019 at 10:13 PM, skattrd said:

If it does have a shagged viscous coupling and/or removed prop shaft will it still work OK as a car? 

... asking for a friend. 

it will work well as a car; my mate who had a few of them reckoned the prop removed/FWD consversion was better for his general MPG n he mentioned tyres lasting longer, after he changed to road only tyres n he lived in 'big time stickZ'; he liked to buy a breaker that didn't have its prop removed tho as he reckoned the coupling wear in its past life had transferred to rear diff n with it removed after many miles; the undriven rear diff was likely to even more severely worn n leakey...

On the diesel theres one of the glow plugs that unremovable unless the pump is off; he was down at mine with cold cranking/catching issues n the glowplug behind the pump was well older than the rest n stuck; I managed to heat n bend a spanner to remove it after heating it, but there wasn't enough space to physically remove the plug- from memory its was 2000 era...

I welded on some off-road OLLI looking  tubular steel side steps with checker plate inserts he got off one of his breakers onto his one; they were so bent n the holes didn't line up so I I just welded them on; utter poinlessness vanity but that's what he wanted done....

theres a 'hippo's forum' - hippos are their knickname he used to be on he mentioned, some 'good info' was on there, is the forum is still going...

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Using an engine designed for small lightweight cars with a stretched capacity and no coolant system rethink was abit complacent. 

Still we have the Freelander to thank for a lot of updated K series technology like the MLS Gasket, PRT thermostat, the stiffened oil rail to prevent 'beaming' whatever that is. 

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1 hour ago, Aston Martin said:

I like the ones with the weird factory body it.

I like the bump-strips on the side but the add-on with the fog lamps to the bumper is fugly. The metallic red looks great on a Tonka toy.

 

20 minutes ago, skattrd said:

This one is giving me my friend the horn, but MOT history makes me a little suspicious:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Landrover-Freelander-Mark-1-Diesel/123918004436

 

I've had an L series in a Rover 400 - last seen at 186k miles. Good Donkey. 

Let us all know if your friend* goes for it. It's a 21 year old car now and need to go in with eyes wide open.

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2 hours ago, sierraman said:

Would a 2.0 MPI Discovery 5 door be worse? 

Nothing can be as bad though as the Frontera 2.3d. Top speed 83mph...

I saw a pretty decent 2.0mpi not long before I passed my test for £700, but my stepdad talked me out of it. 

Slightly glad he did, imagine that would be bloody grim on the hills around here

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On 9/29/2019 at 8:43 AM, sierraman said:

Would a 2.0 MPI Discovery 5 door be worse? 

Nothing can be as bad though as the Frontera 2.3d. Top speed 83mph...

I haven't sampled one, but i hear that they actually aren't as horrendous as folk say once they know the best way to overcome the lack of torque is to rev it hard.

The mental adjustment from people who'd only driven Tdi's and Petrol V8 4x4's must be kinda a little like the first time anyone tries something like the B16 engines Honda had in the Del Sol.. on paper it was rapid, you'd hear people say it was a cracker, then the first time you drove it was always a total let down, purely because if you drive it like a normal car, it feels flat, underpowered and utterly gutless. You need to train yourself to rev it way past anything that feels natural to make it work.

The top speeds on the 90's 4x4's is mostly aerodynamics rather than grunt. My Disco was pretty happy pulling up to 70-75 but you could almost feel the wind resistance from the driving seat,  It was more or less out of puff not long past that. Letting off the throttle at 80 felt like deploying a parachute.

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Bought this June last year for £700, L series diesel with almost a full mot and  prop shaft still attached. Put about 8000 miles on it since with no ftp's.

Had to remove the  prop recently as the viscous coupling was failing. Fortunately I have spare one in good working order which I will be fitting soon.

Recently passed mot with no advisories, overall my experience running one is positive.

 

 

DSC_0047 (3).jpg

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Have had a Discovery TD5 as well as this pair, have to say my favourite was the Disco! That being said the Hippo TD4 is fine, quite comfy and fast enough and at £700 with a years MOT it was good enough value. All 4wd is working as it should but I did have to replace all 4 tyres as the old ones were cracked a lot :shock: Plan is to get 2 years out of it and then it should be throw away if required.

 

20190922_181353.thumb.jpg.d5b992b82bb83f5ffadd6fc820d53293.jpg

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On 9/30/2019 at 11:26 PM, Mrcento said:

I haven't sampled one, but i hear that they actually aren't as horrendous as folk say once they know the best way to overcome the lack of torque is to rev it hard.

The mental adjustment from people who'd only driven Tdi's and Petrol V8 4x4's must be kinda a little like the first time anyone tries something like the B16 engines Honda had in the Del Sol.. on paper it was rapid, you'd hear people say it was a cracker, then the first time you drove it was always a total let down, purely because if you drive it like a normal car, it feels flat, underpowered and utterly gutless. You need to train yourself to rev it way past anything that feels natural to make it work.

The top speeds on the 90's 4x4's is mostly aerodynamics rather than grunt. My Disco was pretty happy pulling up to 70-75 but you could almost feel the wind resistance from the driving seat,  It was more or less out of puff not long past that. Letting off the throttle at 80 felt like deploying a parachute.

I went from a "pedestrian " P38 diesel to a Leon Cupra as someone wanted a swap.....

Sure was an interesting drive home i  can say

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  • 1 year later...

Having changed the oil and filter weekend before last, the ungrateful bastard has now pissed all over the tarmac immediately after I parked up in the carpark at work yedterday morning.

I knew it was likely to be brittle plastic coolant components in the V, asked for the day off, parked it in one of my employers outbuildings, back home for tools and set to work.

Yep - something going on here

20210917_133623.thumb.jpg.d9927803e9aef66d13f07d5ec1ee7f16.jpg

 

Two out of two

Elbow

20210917_135246.thumb.jpg.968a7d6f4abec8f9e677accb0b2bc740.jpg

 

Thermostat housing

 

20210917_135250.thumb.jpg.e9c6b2da06d22b461cdbc202285e87fb.jpg

 

You can see that I had replacement parts in stock (I still own an MG ZS 180 - changed cambelts twice on it and, while stripped down... may as well). Unfortunately, while the parts I already have suit a ZS or ZT, fitting to a V6 Freelander would involve messing about with pipe adaptors as the MGR items are just sleeve-pipe-jubilee clip type arrangements, Land Rover saw fit to make it a 'quick-fit' type connection requiring different plastic parts.

Arse.

Wait until Monday now

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