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1992 Renault Clio mk1 1.4 auto RT - STILL FUCKED, HELP?

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1 hour ago, Fumbler said:

Putting it into reverse would also prove that, however I don't know if that method applies to all autoboxes.

This is also what I was trying to cover. The 3HP22 in the CX does this sometimes when the fluid is warmed up and going from Neutral to Reverse, but not all the time, and almost never when the fluid is cold; it's quite a random type of thing even though the fluid levels are currently within limits.

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On 8/28/2019 at 9:31 AM, barrett said:

The gearbox fault on ours turned out to be an ECU problem, and a replacement ECU solved it, but then it turned out the car was dangerously slow and totally joyless to drive even with all three gears. Then something exploded in the fuel/oil/gearbox oil system and I never even opened the bonnet to check what it was, just called the scrap man. Hateful little cars. A shame, because they're pretty, comfortable and seem to be quite good quality. No rust whatsoever on ours, either. I bet a manual version is a very satisfying way of travelling.

On my recent trip in northern France these were the most numerous of 80's/90's cars I saw. People seem willing to keep these running when a lot of other Renaults with higher numbers have all but disappeared.

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Saw loads of proper old MK1 Clios in Lille, Rome, Madrid...essentially all of Europe really. 

Early seats and engine size badges side by side with the side repeaters are those little details I love on these. 


I do miss the RT I had, but it was the insanely gruff diesel with no PAS. Loved that thing. Not great on motorways but could be chucked around like nobodies business everywhere else. 

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Sidelight are fixed. I discovered the indicator bulb holder was trashed too, though, so new one on order  


Service parts arrived today, air filter was £1 and said to be “OE quality” - it’s actually OE old stock and looks like it’s been kicking around a stock room for a while!


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34 minutes ago, Sausage5000 said:

Clios seemed to get more bloated and hideous for every facelift they got. The 5, Clio mk1 and Clio mk2 pre-facelift are nice lookers.

Like a Polo is now the size of a Golf, it’s how it is. I guess the Twingo is the car for someone that wants something like an old Clio. 

The mk4 Clio is actually quite an impressive package as far as moderns go, I have one for sale at the moment (see the modern section) and was very impressed with how it drove on the 350 mile collection journey. It is huge though, the size of a Megane II. 

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You mentioned changing the plugs - are the leads ok?  It might be one is breaking down somewhere.  I can’t remember if the “energy” engine in these has a distributor cap/rotor arm arrangement so perhaps something minor is past its best.  

I think it’s too old for things like Throttle bodies and lambda sensors but could be wrong!

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Changed the cap and rotor tonight and it still shakes itself to bits at idle / feels like it wants to stall. It has definitely improved the running though, the engine seems to respond better to throttle / start faster etc. 

Running out of ideas now though. 

Theres a rubber seal between the throttle / single point injector unit and the air box that doesn’t look in great health but I can’t find one anywhere

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It starts fine cold or warm but it shakes itself to death on idle regardless. Pulls strongly if you keep the revs up but struggles at idle, stalls if you switch to reverse from drive without keeping the throttle on 

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No idle speed adjustment is there?  Just because she has injection doesn't necessarily mean there's not a screw to set the air bleed past the throttle at idle.

Worth making sure the throttle body is spotlessly clean too.

One thing I have found over the years with a few monopoint cars though is that the earlier systems tended to be *really* sensitive to vacuum leaks.  A microscopically small split in the brake servo line made the Lada idle absolutely awfully.  Never found the leak...but changing the hose resolved it!

Worth going over the engine bay with a microscope to make sure you've not got a leak somewhere.  I'd start from the connection to the MAP sensor and work from there.

MAP issues would also cause issues on light throttle...so worth investigating.

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