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Sandy the Landy 109 project - bulkhead update

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so what the heck has been going on in the last 12 hours?

gravity assisted the 109 into the workshop... what I had not anticipated was the height of the vehicle. it cleared the entrance by 2"


Started with a brake assessment on the o/s/f, shoes is good, cylinders is tired. pulled it all apart.


finding what I already knew (new cylinders, pipework and shoes needed) i moved on to stripping the front wing for footwell replacement


inner footwell is not bad, structurally strong but quite tatty

A post is in a similar state


dash top was a bastard to remove, is ok but sun worn and rusty


dash bottom was next, and it was rustier! I chose to remove because bulkhead top was rustier than I anticipated


with it out of the way, bulkhead repairs can start


but to do drivers side steering column needs to be out, I also removed all the loom and dash for light refurb


far less rust on the floor that I thought, but more on the bulkhead than I was expecting. Tis Land Rover! what is it you is expectin?


ready for tomorrow, not planning to cut out until new panels arrive on wednesday. 


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I've had 3 defenders bought one from a young lad who have way more balls than me , he stripped it right down to the chassis rails and rebuilt it

I bought it thinking it'd drive like a new one but it was just as bad as all the others I'd owned , it was a truck cab so I bought all the bits and made it into a convertible apart from it took ages to convert it and if it rained you got wet

still love them though

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Work has started again on Sandy the 1980 S3 109 Landy

The project, owned by Fatha thestag needs brakes, clutch hydraulics, some electrics but mainly bulkhead work for MoT

Strip down commences


Heater unit is seized solid


heater unit doesn't want to let go, quite a lot of swearing involved


Eventually it did succumb to moderate violence.

this corner around the door hinge is mainly filler


drivers floor came out easily and chassis looks ok


passenger side footwell is largely 1980 Lode Lane with patches, some welded some bolted. 


Roof was lifted 2" to allow the screen to be removed and assess the bulkhead top rail.

Yea Gods


Idea was to fix in situ but there is so much that needs doing that removal is the sensible choice. working on my own and this is fairly easy stuff so far


Quite disappointed at this stage thinking maybe a new bulkhead at £1600 is needed. Had this been for a customer it could probably be justified. Nearly £500 of panels needed and days of my time to fix it.


amused to find that the bulkhead a-post foot (supposed to hold the bulkhead and a-post to the chassis) was not even attached to the bulkhead on the drivers side. Here it is on the deck after I cut it free from the door sill


As I am planning to replace both inner and outer skins on around the bulkhead vents I need to first cut off the screen hinge pillars and the bonnet mounts. quite rusty but recoverable.


This is the drivers side vent, with screen pillar removed. Most of that top edge was filler, over foam! ffs


the idea is to replace a-post and footwell on drivers side, tack it into place. refit to chassis and confirm alignment before welding it into place. Then I can repeat on the passenger side. and lastly address the issues with the top rail and vent panel.

here I find an a-post repair panel hammered over the rusty original a-post 🤣


Back onto Series 3 yesterday, someone at Lode Lane went fucking berserk with the spot welder on the original footwell, way too many! I intend to cut quite a bit lump out of this lip and weld in new metal


here is panels for the gearbox cover and bulkhead side held roughly in place. I need the new footwell before I can tack it all in and check for alignment


I have a couple of episodes of this to stick up on my youtube channel.

More work next week

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I watched the video of you tackling the bulkhead and was initially surprised at the cost of the panels, but I suppose as these have a following/classic the price is what it is, with so much rust on the bulkhead I can understand why a new galvanised one makes sense but the cost is still quite alarming, how long do you think it would be before you would have to repair it again?

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