Jump to content

The Burd's MK1 Golf Rivage - fun and games of various nature's 22/11/22


320touring
 Share

Recommended Posts

Fitting was the reverse of removal:

TADA!

IMG_20200411_174000.thumb.jpg.b9d3dd70e38de4346484c7c05f5f7e9d.jpg

Time to fill up the system - using water at the moment as I need to order coolant.

(I decided to add some french flair to the topping up process!)

IMG_20200411_174352.thumb.jpg.97cebbc0d791046edc8c041b0b94c3b8.jpg

 

I then went to start it to bleed the system, and it was most recalcitrant to start..turning the key yielded much silence and very little actual cranking.

 

So it was time to start problem solving.

First up, rule out the ignition switch by pulling the loom off the back and bridging it

IMG_20200411_181222.thumb.jpg.55c27316f4b6d9fce2333c109882221f.jpg

I got it to fire a couple of times, and start once, but it's very intermittent.

I think it had a new starter motor when the timing belt and water pump were done., So I suspect either an earthing issue or wiring faults at the fusebox..

I stopped there and brought the battery in to charge - will have another look later on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a starting issue with my scirocco replaced the starter/HotWired the ignition switch. Turned out it was the battery going bad.

If you do have to replace the starter, bin the original vw Allen key style bolt and just replace it with a normal hex bolt that isn't made of cheese.

Also chuck a few more decent earth cables on, always worth doing for the price of them. See if a decent earth made out of a jump cable helps it any, quick easy one to try.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/7/2019 at 10:36 PM, billy_bunter said:

MK1 forum is usually pretty good. I used to ask stuff on there about my old Audi.  They have a couple of VW electrical whisperers on there as well.

Relay/ignition -  Fuse boxes on these are notoriously weak so make sure ALL connections are OK. Check for heating/burn around the plugs on the rear. Good pin connector function guides on the MK1 forum on these as well. Looking at the age of the car you should have the better* mk2 version of the fusebox.

Think you are right track at moment and good perseverance sir!

Looking at that fuel relay your fusebox will be rusty inside. The plates inside are brass but the pins connecting them are plated steel or just steel so they rust.  I cannot remember if the pins for the plugs on the back are the same affair. Also these type of boxes the pins are riveted to the plates inside. When they age and get tired they slowly but surely vibrate/come loose. Just enough to cause intermittent problems.

Did you get registered on the mk1 forum?

Fusebox info thread - https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/fusebox-faq.219775/ 

If you intend keeping the car buy a new fusebox.  If I have got the part number correct. It should be one of these 171941821d cheapest on ebay is £85 from vwheritage on the south coast.  Meyle still think its worthwhile making these even thought the last one was fitted in a European factory somewhere in the early 90's.

Obviously test it all out 1st as i may be painting an overly glum picture.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At the beginning of the week, I started out to get the golf running and the coolant bled through. 

A fully charged battery was added, and we started trying to get it to run.

Initially, the starter was lazy (as can be heard in the video), but once we had it cranking over, it fired up no bother.

As can be seen and heard (apologies for the crappy editing - done on my phone), the car stumbles when asked to come off idle. It'll even out a bit if you hold it at steady throttle.

To date the following has been done

Timing belt

Water pump

Rotor arm

Dizzy cap

Spark plugs

Fuel filter

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today after work, I decided it was time to try some other things to see if the Missfire could be narrowed down.

I pulled the plug leads off the Toledo (therefore disabling a working car) and fitted them to the Golf.

Toledo leads:

IMG_20200415_164448.thumb.jpg.b4717420d8cf6a905404e87d97d5e26e.jpg

Old golf leads:

IMG_20200415_165219.thumb.jpg.e0c8902d9ca77f16762602994141be89.jpg

 

Looks very similar yes? Well they are the same basic design ( though the Toledo is a single point injection, and the golf is multi point).

The only difference was that the Toledo plugs didn't have the small silver nubbin at the top - so 2 mins with some twiddling made the golf plugs the same

IMG_20200415_165235.thumb.jpg.0feccf32b7a50b2f5f8e6abb88c30305.jpg

This seemed to improve things slightly, and I was satisfied that the spark side of things was in decent order.

Next up was to have a look at the fuel tank and in-tank pump.

This was easy as being able to put the roof down gives you plenty room to work:)

Firstly, the pump was located:

IMG_20200415_170224.thumb.jpg.dfaffe1e3ddf565dc8e841eae5997d65.jpg

Then I disconnected the lines and power, and removed the pump housing

This is what greeted me

IMG_20200415_170737.thumb.jpg.813947acd221681deb829d0c242e8a55.jpg

 

Time to fire up the pela, and try to lower the tank level so I could fish out the filter that fell off the bottom of the pump.

IMG_20200415_171347.thumb.jpg.f881314dab878c2f82f597d21c40b7b3.jpgIMG_20200415_172613.thumb.jpg.eb74e8145403a46617a5d3bac1615440.jpg

the filter spent look too bad, but I suspect that detritus gets sucked onto it when the pump is running, and falls off when stopped.

 

At this point I accidentally dropped a spot of petrol:

IMG_20200415_172801.thumb.jpg.4e7c2e9d85d9061da83b092688e2ab4b.jpg

I dunno about you, but that looks watery to me..

At that point, I decided draining the tank was a plan.

So..

Car started without the fuel relay bridged, and ran until no fuel (so no pressure in the line)

Inlet line to filter removed

IMG_20200415_174731.thumb.jpg.0f303f4fca820809f68bb4ea939c9dd9.jpg

Empty veg bottle deployed

IMG_20200415_175026.thumb.jpg.6d26c13fb82c82df309912f5add20f06.jpg

I then got the burd out to drive the fuel pump bridging wire.

 

The result?

IMG_20200415_180731.thumb.jpg.27e9c8b5cc50c6b201f28c746d1d0be4.jpg

Howlin'! It had very little odour - suggesting it was lucky to be running at all.

I think the following:

1) it had some shite fuel in it when filled in Swansea
2)it was diluted a bit with refuelling en route north
3) the breakdown was the fuel pump relay failing
4) I think the miss is a combo of old fuel (poss water getting in too) and some shite in the tank bottom.

 

Next step is to see if I can get the tank cleaned out a bit - any suggestions as to how I could do that? 

Also going to try adding fresh fuel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, bigfella2 said:

I think the only solution to your problems is to stick it on a low loader and sell it to me.

Looks a nice MK1 cabriolet.

Lol! I'm not quite there with it yet:)

 

It doesn't need too much to be a lovely thing - just need to keep plugging away at it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm currently trying to work out how I could pull the pump out the tank and get it into some fresh petrol.

The main challenge is that the power supply lead is very short - I may be able to rotate the pump down into the rear foot well but that would be about it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, The Mighty Quinn said:

The tank has GOT to come out. Fairy liquid and a hose, really wash it out, drain as much as poss and let it drip dry upside down. There will be so much rusty shit in there you will never get it clean with it fitted, end of.

 

You may even find a rust hole somehere, explaining the water in the fuel.

If I get to that stage I'll fit the new one.

Currently the task is to get to the bottom of the Missfire.

To quote Rumsfeld 

"There are the known knowns (rusty tank), known unknowns (it's Missfiring), unknown knowns (fusebox/relay) and unknown unknowns (why I started this all!):)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, billy_bunter said:

Run it from a fuel can?

The fuel pump cradle is too big to fit, and I need to be able to place the return line in too. Biggest issue is whether I can get power to the pump when it is removed as the power cable is short...

 

I could possibly just run the hoses into a can and let the main pump do all the work

 

But not today as I Cannae be arsed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today, I decided to have another swing at the golf.

First order of business was to try and rule out the in tank pump/rust issues and watery fuel.

First up, open the boot

IMG_20200425_142824.thumb.jpg.29c743bb8812bf3ff5f1bb414ac20cf7.jpg

I unloaded women of the shite so I could locate the depressurisation tap for the hydraulic hood system.

IMG-20200425-WA0008.thumb.jpeg.5af9c65c818128c2ba86850a9091e478.jpeg

Lefty loosey is the winner. And allows you to do this:

IMG_20200425_143736.thumb.jpg.1bdae16bde839da6251412366b3fcaf2.jpg

This was important, as having drained the tank last time, I had no way to run the engine to get pressure into the hood system.

Removal of the in tank pump showed that there was still a bit of a rust/skankytanky issue.

IMG_20200425_150821.thumb.jpg.02727985b4b5f8352f1696a331844933.jpg

All the guff has collected in the wee swirl pot.

The Pela was deployed to sook out the remaining 150ml or so of petrol, before a cursory wipe.

IMG_20200425_151127.thumb.jpg.0d662b19c8da2718de0c05b5f554db6e.jpg

Not great but significantly fewer chunks than previous.

 

That done and it was time for some top quality engineering*

This is in no way* two bits of garden hose clamped over the pipes for the in tank pump. 

IMG_20200425_152303.thumb.jpg.cb132047fe457bb102d2f49377612397.jpg

 

Doing this let me do a few things:

Rule out poor fuel

Avoid any issues with rust blocking the in tank filter

Test the main fuel pump directly

 

Setup was as follows: feed and return lines into the one can of fresh petrol.

IMG_20200425_154805.thumb.jpg.05e6394a3fcb598cece147faae3e8dd4.jpg

Brilliant, let's try it...

 

Oh fuck

IMG_20200425_154958.thumb.jpg.f2f1cc351b6a9fc495ce4d3c8cfd57eb.jpg

That'll be fuel pishing out the main feed where it enters the distribution head.

I disconnected the pump, and managed to clean up the mess. And then disconnected the battery.

Some time, and some cleaning later, I got the banjo bolt seated correctly and the system pressured up with no leaks.

The fuel that got pipes round seemed clean after running.

IMG_20200425_160901.thumb.jpg.739fc1aefc2d9b34cbdf9807809a6027.jpg

Time to test it - a handy little video to show how it was running

Fresh fuel from a can seems to have improved the idle, but the engine still misses under load.

When driving it, it pulls well enough in first, but once on second, the engine doesn't give much response.

I am wondering if the main fuel pump is not able to supply enough pressure?

Or possibly a vacuum or air leak?

Anyone any idea?

 

Once that had happened I decided to give it a rest on the mechanical side, and move to some cleaning.

I started by greasing the hood hinges:

IMG_20200425_161457.thumb.jpg.f7053aef1f15dac777100d36e0f3b661.jpgIMG_20200425_161503.thumb.jpg.ef0cf57838bc665239f5f970e9e85f09.jpg

that should keep it functional:)

 

The hood. Ah yes, the only thing stopping the golf from being a hot tub rather than a car.

After approx 11 years outside, the roof on the car looked a touch the worse for wear:

IMG_20200425_142126.thumb.jpg.652fb1aeb4e13c71313a9a9689b74bab.jpgIMG_20200425_142132.thumb.jpg.d26602bae9f967e665358f0462377acb.jpgIMG_20200425_142141.thumb.jpg.3b59203afb6c4a8efe28d596efa70510.jpgIMG_20200425_142145.thumb.jpg.dbf6bd6b5f09d633e3b745668ff6f57e.jpg

a cunning plan was hatched.

Soak the hood

Apply soapy water (car shampoo) and agitate heavily with a scrubbing brush.

Allow to sit for a few moments

Deploy the free wetvac recieving from @blackboilersuit of this parish..

 

To say there was an improvement may be an understatement.

IMG_20200425_163305.thumb.jpg.cab144149b6bc28fdea1a7c9b8ec2802.jpg

Turns out the hood is blue...

IMG_20200425_173659.thumb.jpg.69aad03269776c421d00289fbfbd9069.jpgIMG_20200425_174149.thumb.jpg.84613620ebf8f92a92a9bf3000e453db.jpg

the crud that came off was howlin'

IMG_20200425_175018.thumb.jpg.679aae40b69cad18e3ba2fd4ffd1e9ff.jpg

I'll give it another pass tomorrow and get some waterproofing on it - the kit arrived yesterday:)

to end, have a satisfying hood hoovering montage!

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That’s come up amazingly well!

Worth putting some good hood protector/waterproofer jollop on it or the moss will be right back in no time. Ask me how I know.

I fitted that hood new 9 years ago last week. The previous hood looked like this:

8079C46E-991F-46BE-80EC-E05011292AFD.thumb.jpeg.d92a0ea9f91a6706612c907b1f388e2a.jpeg
 

I also replaced the rear window frame - they rust. New ones are available from Crazy Quiffs if it’s gone again, but hopefully not.

6C5E3BD4-583A-455A-BF38-0311F70E2FAB.thumb.jpeg.9e8af710ecad0be2648fb0f24a14bb30.jpeg

8BA9CB79-5F7F-4BA2-B09C-5000115C34F2.thumb.jpeg.886922cd243de7dd80bca2a7d2b61637.jpeg

I don’t seem to have an ‘after’ picture but it looked like it will now you’ve cleaned it.

At least the hood isn’t holed; water ingress is more around the seals than through the fabric.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, spike60 said:

Re the proofing I've owned convertibles for years and use Fabasil tent etc proofer very so often if the roof isn't so great. I think Auto Glym etc is probably fine for maintenance on a good roof but sometimes you want something you can slap on with a 4" brush 

The autoglym is what I have in stock - so will have to use that:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A new window frame is a princely £11.50 from Crazy Quiff’s Mk1 Golf Emporium: http://www.golfmk1.co.uk/Items.php?cat=SLAREA&group=ROOF

I don’t know offhand whether you can replace the window frame without having to replace the hood.  It would probably involve some swearing as you try to keep the fabric evenly stretched.

BAS International are recommended for hoods if you do have to go down that route: http://www.car-hood.co.uk/golf-mk12-h1102.  £236 + VAT and postage.  Fitting is about a day’s DIY work; a second pair of hands is helpful at intervals.

The Mk1 OC has good instructions on its website.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today, I had 2 goals:

1. Get to the bottom of the poor running

2. Get the hood finished and waterproofed

 

Goal 2.

I started with another swing at the roof using the patented "Scrubbing brush and wetvac" method..

It's still not perfect, but it is a hell of a lot better - so much so, I got the waterproofing applied and am hoping for some rain:)

IMG_20200426_121257.thumb.jpg.d024106a036ae18ac93500fe50e9858b.jpgIMG_20200426_121307.thumb.jpg.fbb2abb0c8bb573868027a945a0c0d16.jpgIMG_20200426_170856.thumb.jpg.de292a90e86cdcf3bef69a5a18654407.jpg

i'm deeply happy with this - real progress!

 

now to goal 1...

folks on the MK1 Golf Facebook page suggested doing a flow test for the fuel pump.

The spec is apparently 750ml in 30secs via the return line.

IMG_20200426_122359.thumb.jpg.72561967c5b2301ddd240552d03474dc.jpg

How to measure 750 ml? Wine bottle of course..

We hooked up the whole kit, and waited the prerequisite time.

The result?

IMG_20200426_122409.thumb.jpg.468a25aa88de80f02d9259136e0d3281.jpg

Fucksticks.

Time for moar investigation.

IMG_20200426_123521.thumb.jpg.0fc1ac5d9128509e23996a5c32534537.jpg

The pipe with the tape on it is the return line.

Apparently MK1 golfs are notorious for these lines clogging up. Nothing for it then, but a strip down and check out.

I looked out the weapon of choice:

A low E string from my guitar.

IMG_20200426_132210.thumb.jpg.58bfc1ed95758ac58605976b1131b6e3.jpg

I then pulled off the banjo bolt and cracked the union onto the return hard-line (basically like a big brake union (14/17mm)

IMG_20200426_141633.thumb.jpg.4b8ba600553aff4c4966d3bcbd31f133.jpg

The banjo end was nice and clean, so a plan was hatched..

IMG_20200426_141822.thumb.jpg.cd0dad7c5da47e55e53d3f298026119c.jpg

I reattached the banjo section, and put that in the wine bottle.

Still no dice.

I even tried fitting the in tank pump to assist getting fuel to the main pump:

IMG_20200426_160135.thumb.jpg.ce073b369876aba1b7c9332bc3371098.jpg

Initially it made no difference. Turned out the new in tank pump was not working.

A switch back to the original one had fuel attempting to squirt everywhere.

I called it quits.

Current sitrep:

Engine side:
New sparks
New dizzy cap
New rotor arm

Fuel side:
New in tank pump (seemingly now not working)
Fresh fuel from a can to rule out stale fuel and rust from tank bottom

No fuel down return line.
Return line has been cleared as best as possible.

No fuel right at the return section of the metering head

I appear to have fuel at the injector lines at the metering head.

My overarching suspicion is that something is lowering the fuel pressure, so it can't achieve the needed pressure for the metering head to function properly.

Likely either a blockage or the main pump gubbed.

IMG_20200426_160135.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Fraz said:

Are new pumps and lines super costly?

 

plus what’s the plan with the rusty looking tank? No point replacing pumps and lines then dragging that all back through it 

 

 

Pump and lines not too expensive, but getting a bit parts darts..

New tank ( in our possession ) would resolve rusty tank. But back axle needs to come off..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 320touring changed the title to The Burd's MK1 Golf Rivage - fun and games of various nature's 22/11/22

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Similar Content

    • By SiC
      Skip to this post for the purchase:
       
       
       I've been keeping an eye out for a cheap runaround recently. Our Civic has been doing the brunt of our journeys and in 7months of ownership we've covered nearly 10k miles. Also where  Mrs SiC works has lost its car park and it's been left on main roads. As we don't really want it damaged, it's not ideal. 
       So I've been keeping an eye out for something essentially to replace the Fabia I had. Small, easy to park and cheap to buy+run. Second gen (2008 on) Seat Ibiza 1.4 is on the cards and can be had for under 2k
       Anyway yesterday we were out and about. I was doing a browse of Autotrader and found a really cheap A3 2.0 TFSi. Basically a Golf GTi in an Audi suit but much cheaper. This in particular was half many go for retail. As we passed, I went to see it.
       TL;DR Unfortunately the dealer had morals. Someone else was travelling from Bournemouth and he gave them first refusal. Shame as it drove well, had an inch stack of history and even Mrs SiC gave her (rare) thumbs up for it. Did have rusty front wings and duct tape over it, but that's fine for what it'll be used for.

        
       After this, it got me thinking that while I like the idea of a cheap to run car, I'll get bored of it. Even though a grand or two is not a lot nowadays, it's still enough. I've now got it in my head I want something decently fast. But there isn't a lot around for that sort of money.
       Basically the criteria is:
        - small and thus easy to park (i.e. when I'm late to the train)
        - sub 2k and ideally less is better
        - CAZ exempt so basically petrol euro 4 on
        - not too ridiculous on fuel - 30+ and really 35+ mpg
        - light steering as Mrs SiC gets annoyed with heavy to drive cars 
        - bodywork condition unimportant but not to the degree of just come out of a banger race
       There isn't a lot that meet those requirements. Putting a search into Autotrader of sub 8sec 0-60 and sub 2k brings back a lot of one car model. Despite their age now, Mrs SiC gives the nod and like them. That vehicle (if you can't read titles) is the TT mk1. 
       (Bonnet up picture deliberate as many have this as their default position)

       I used to hate these. I keep saying I hate VAG. I also hate my job but I keep going back to every day. I mean it could be that I'm just a grumpy fucker that says he hates everything but doesn't actually.
       Anyway like I say I hate work when I'm not at it, I enjoy it immensely when I'm there. Likewise when I'm sat in a VAG product, I do enjoy the experience. Every VAG vehicle Mrs SiC has driven she's liked a lot. Even reluctantly at first (because they are so butt ugly) she actually quite liked the Fabia MK1.
       So I know something like this is a safe bet that she'll drive it. The looks have soften off in my eyes and I do quite fancy a TT Mk1. Or maybe I just enjoy inflicting pain on myself too much. Gives me something to be grumpy and moan about.
       There are a few contenders out there that I want to take a look at, any tips on what I should look out for?
       I'm after critical problems here. Door locks/regulators, dodgy switchgear and such are par for course on this age VAG. That I'm expecting to be broken.
       Thinking probably 1.8t with the 180bhp engine. Ideally no Quattro Haldex that undoubtedly has been neglected.
       Or any other similar suggestions that meet the above criteria!
    • By Dave_Q
      None of my vehicles are really interesting enough for their own thread, so I'm going for a tat blog style consolidated thread.
       
      The modern* - Citroen Berlingo 2.0 HDi
       

       
      The best and only photo I have of it.
      Generally reliable but showing it's 153k miles in various areas.
      It's good at hauling people and things around, that's about all I can say.
      Current status - off road for fixing of torrential oil leak and floppy gear change.
       
      The classic* - BMW 318iS
       

       
      Photo stolen from seller's ad.
      A recent £292 ebay purchase.
      I thought I would strip it out and do some track days but after driving it for a while I'm not sure now.
      112k miles, some sort of service history, far from a creampuff but hasn't been messed about with like so many.
      Check out the orange indicators and standard 15 inch rims. SOAVE.
      Current status - daily use.
       
      Motorbike 1 - Honda VFR750
       

       
      Has done me well as a 'first big bike' but it's replacement is already lined up.
      Current status - Awoken from winter slumber and with MOT station pending results tomorrow.
       
      Motorbike 2 - Honda Fireblade
       

       
      Bought cheap as needs gearbox looking at - jumps out of second (they all do that if they've been ragged sir.)
      Current status - gearbox repair is after Berlingo on to-do list, hoping for on the road by June.
       
       
      So there they are. Not very interesting but I will update the thread with my with my various spannerings/misadventures/getting bored and selling them all etc.
    • By mat_the_cat
      A mate of mine at work has just restored this, and now it's (just about) finished, is selling it. He wants what seems like a fair price for it, and it might be my only chance to indulge a boyhood dream before values climb too high. And hopefully I shouldn't lose out!
      Is there anyone around who knows the values they actually sell for? Obviously I've looked at adverts and completed eBay listings, but don't know if they reflect reality!





    • By rickvw72
      Hi all, I’m going to try to keep this updated as a diary of work done on my old Fourtrak. 
      I bought this a few years ago but have only recently got going on it properly, with several other projects on the go, times been scarce.
      Ill start with the main job, the rear crossmember. When I bought the truck this tube had snapped on the drivers side. This ruptured the brake pipes, and ruined all the already tired suspension bushes.
      So, out with the crossmember...
      The original is round tube, the new 3mm wall box section, it actually holds the anti tramp bars. 
      Yes the Fourtrak has a 5 linked rear suspension, and an LSD. Because race car!
      I didn’t take many pics at this time, so I’m trying to improve this and maybe a thread will motivate me to document it. 
       



    • By Rust Collector
      Hi folks,
      As I threatened in my first post in the 'introduce yourself' thread, I will slowly be getting the fleet posted up on here for everyone to admire/ridicule. I will be the first to admit I have a hoarding problem, and at one point I had around 18 cars in addition to the stock that I was trading at the time... I eventually listened to those close to me who had been constantly nagging over the years, weaned myself back to one car for a year or so, realised that without projects to play with I was constantly bored and miserable and so decided that having one car was a crock of shit and I should buy more again. Always just one more, never more than that 😆 At the moment we have the following, some running and on the road, some not so much... Nothing irreparable though, and I will try my best to document the work I do as I pick away it on them all.
      So, on to the cars that we've got currently:
      2007 mk3 Renault Clio 1.2 - mentioned for completeness, and because I put a new engine in it recently and effectively got the car for £150 I'm still feeling sort of smug. I got given it for free with a snapped cam belt after helping someone out, I bought the cheapest engine I could find, put a new cam belt on it and hoped for the best. It's now my partner's daily, and she's happy enough with it. I'm wary of it, as it contains computers, but whilst it runs it means I can delay welding my partner's Subaru! After driving it for a bit myself, I actually don't mind it and I've come to think it's an alright car for what it is despite being incredibly dull 😯 2000 Mk1 Honda Insight - I bought this around 2015/2016 when I was importing cars from Japan and put it in storage. It was tipped to go up in value... It didn't really. Before the world fell apart we used to drive on the continent a lot (my partner is Slovakian, we try to drive to see family rather than fly) so I recently took it out of storage and put it on the road in anticipation of getting some road trips in once the borders open. This is currently my daily driver. 2001 Mitsubishi Shogun Sport 3.0 V6 - This is our thunderbird, useful for rescuing the other cars when they shit themselves. So thirsty on fuel that you barely notice the change in economy when driving it unladen or with 1.5t dragged behind it 😆 Typical Japanese reliability, the engine and box are always well behaved but I'm forever welding bits into the holes in the body. I keep thinking of selling it, but it saved our arse when another car died just before a road trip to Zurich so I like to keep it around. It's quite good fun to take to pay and play days too, when I'm not busy throwing money at other stuff. 1994 Skoda Favorit Silverline Estate - I swapped another car I wanted to get out of for this one. The main attraction is that it horrifies my partner, as she had one as her first car and hated it. I've replaced quite a lot on this to get it running right, as it had some issues when I picked it up, I've also spent a good few days welding the underneath up. It still needs some bodywork and a tidy but it was a perfectly good daily up until the head gasket let go. It's still taxed and tested, the cylinder head is sat in the boot of the Mitsubishi ready to take for a skim, so hopefully I'll have her up and running again soon. I don't know why, but I've grown pretty fond of it over the time I've had it, despite the fact that it is fairly crap to drive by modern standards! 2001 Subaru Legacy Outback 3.0 H6 - Bought cheap with a short MOT, it was all going so well until I started picking at the inner arches. This was my partner's daily up until the MOT ran out, and ever since it's been on the 'I'll get round to it' list. Other than some crustiness, it's a pretty decent car. The flat 6 engine sounds beautiful through the stainless exhaust. It's rapid for a wagon, and has all the creature comforts you could want. It's fairly straightforward to work on. I think this is about our 6th or 7th Legacy, I keep getting rid of them and then regretting it. I'm told we are selling this one once I fix it... I may just buy my partner out of it, save us buying another one in a few months time 😆 2001 Mercedes E430 V8 Estate - £250 facebook marketplace special. Ran great for 6 months, providing loads of V8 fun. Bloody quick in a straight line, and huge inside. Easily one of my favourite shit heaps I've ever owned. Then the gearbox took a dump before we left for Zurich in 2019 (yes, I am stupid enough to plan a 3,000 mile foreign trip in a £250 German car...). I've since bought a replacement gearbox, which conveniently came attached to a 5.4l AMG lump from a CLK55 AMG that a mate was breaking, plus all the other bits I wanted to grab off of it. It's currently sat up at my parent's farm, firmly on the 'I'll get round to it' list. 2001 Mercedes SLK 320 - Bought off the mate who sold me the AMG lump, I got this as something to work on with my younger brother. It had a snapped control arm, and subsequently a knackered engine and gearbox. My mate chucked in a spare engine and gearbox, and we are most of the way through the repair work. The hardest part of this project has been both mine and my brother's working hours changing, making it hard to find the time to work together. 1992 Honda Prelude 2.2 Si VTEC - Another Japanese import, I bought it when I was 21, ran it for years and then took it off the road and left it up the farm until I was ready to do the restoration work it needed (I couldn't weld back then... Some people might say I still can't 😅 ) as the rear quarters and sills were going to crap. I started her up the other day and noticed she wasn't charging, so I'll probably strip the alternator and repair it over the next few days. As for the welding, you guessed it, I'll get round to it! 1992 Citroen BX Break 1.7 TZD - Well, it was free to a good home, and I had just dropped a car off and had an empty car transporter... What would anyone else do?! She's done nearly 300k miles, and has lots of holes for me to weld up. Otherwise runs fine, no trouble starting, suspension goes up and down as needed, doesn't spray green fluid all over the shop. I've had all the interior out and cleaned it thoroughly, removed most of the spiders, fitted the missing trim - basically done anything I can to avoid the harder jobs. It's due to become our holiday bus though, so I've scheduled some time over the next few months to get stuck in to the welding. This is probably one of the cars I'm most excited about running, as I reckon it will be a pretty decent estate to run around in. 1988 Zastava 311 - A bit of a random one, but I've always wanted a Zastava just for the obscurity. This one came up in January, and had been sat in barns since 1996 apparently.  It didn't run when I got it, but I've slowly replaced pretty much everything in the engine bay, along with all the brake components and lines, and she runs now. Just the welding left to do, and she's ready for MOT. I have been fairly productive with this project, up until several cars within my family broke at the same time and I ended up working on those in my spare time instead of my toys. Only one family car left to fix and I'll be back on my projects again hopefully. I will try to put an individual post to follow for each car, as and when I can be bothered to do a write up of what I've done with each of them to bring them up to date, and then after that I'll try and get posts and pics up as I do jobs on them. I suspect the first thing to get up will be the Skoda, as that's what I'm actively working on currently. And seeing as you made it this far through my rambling, here's a picture of the Favorit:

×
×
  • Create New...