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The Burd's MK1 Golf Rivage - fun and games of various nature's 22/11/22


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Back in the 90's when such motors were posh and modern I had a colleague with a scirocco that was forever breaking down or not running right due to injection problems. After keeping breakers rich buying used parts and lots of swearing over a period of several months he eventually found the problem. A rotten filler neck was letting water and dirt into the tank. The rot was in a difficult to access spot right next to the filler cap and in such as a position not to leak fuel while filling or driving but it was letting spray from the wheel in. Just a thought since the fuel in the bottle looks like it came from a pothole in the road.

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Could be worse. Could be Renix.


Does sound like all that muck is inside the metering system- all the fine particles that get through the mesh and filter that manage o collect together into little fields of dirt, particularly if the fuel has any water in it- or in the case of this if the water has any fuel in (looking at the bottle of piss you removed from the fuel system). Clean it out and it should run like new-ish again. It's a simple system, which makes it moderately reliable (reliable if it's clean, reliably unreliable if not) at the end of the day.


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8 minutes ago, blackboilersuit said:

Back in the 90's when such motors were posh and modern I had a colleague with a scirocco that was forever breaking down or not running right due to injection problems. After keeping breakers rich buying used parts and lots of swearing over a period of several months he eventually found the problem. A rotten filler neck was letting water and dirt into the tank. The rot was in a difficult to access spot right next to the filler cap and in such as a position not to leak fuel while filling or driving but it was letting spray from the wheel in. Just a thought since the fuel in the bottle looks like it came from a pothole in the road.

The car has had a new filter neck - and I have removed most of the guff from the tank. I have a new tank, but fitting it looks a big job, so trying everything before that.


Will get the shity fuel drawn out and try running it from a can as I say

6 minutes ago, big_al_granvia said:

Guess what I'm reading:)

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7 minutes ago, PhilA said:

Could be worse. Could be Renix.


Does sound like all that muck is inside the metering system- all the fine particles that get through the mesh and filter that manage o collect together into little fields of dirt, particularly if the fuel has any water in it- or in the case of this if the water has any fuel in (looking at the bottle of piss you removed from the fuel system). Clean it out and it should run like new-ish again. It's a simple system, which makes it moderately reliable (reliable if it's clean, reliably unreliable if not) at the end of the day.


Any ideas where to start with cleaning it out?

I can see two screws that come out to release the metering head from the base unit, so that should let me get to the fuelling pin.

Removing the fuelling pin would be next, then I wonder if I can flush out the metering head?

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No, I have Renix, which is controlled by the equivalent of an Apple ][ computer and only works if you sacrifice a round of brie to it on a bi-weekly basis


I suggest ram a bratwurst down the intake and smother it with sauerkraut.


(Otherwise known as a VW injection specialist will be along shortly)

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Drew another 10L of shanner fuel out this today, and noticed that the fuel pumps seemed sporadic. I wonder if the fuel pump relay is shot? A new one is £15 or so, so significantly less than a replacement metering head.

Did some initial investigation/teardown on the metering head.


I separated the fuel unit from the airbox (6x10mm bolts) as below


This revealed 2 things :

1. I can't feel any resistance from the metering pin when moving the arm

2. I have no idea how to get the unit off the metal base. I can only see 2 screws, but they seem to hold the unit together. Do I need to undo them to reach the pin? 


A video of the pin /arm in action


Any help or thoughts would be much appreciated.

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MK1 forum is usually pretty good. I used to ask stuff on there about my old Audi.  They have a couple of VW electrical whisperers on there as well.

Relay/ignition -  Fuse boxes on these are notoriously weak so make sure ALL connections are OK. Check for heating/burn around the plugs on the rear. Good pin connector function guides on the MK1 forum on these as well. Looking at the age of the car you should have the better* mk2 version of the fusebox.

Think you are right track at moment and good perseverance sir!

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Is that the cast iron distribution block on the metering unit? If so, I had one on V8 Merc years ago that had some very odd/mysterious fuelling faults - mainly that it over-fuelled like mad and then failed it's MOT on emissions! The pin inside was well and truly stuck and I had to get a later unit which was an alloy block, then the car ran perfectly. So, I would tentatively say that it is fucked :) but don't take my word for it as I am a well known cock head.

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Yesterday, I went to SVM scrapbits for to procure a part.

Unbeknownst to me, until RML2345 pointed it out, the venerable 740 uses a very similar fuel distribution system.


CMS had one on a known working car that was 'aff Tae the bin', so I stripped off the needed part.



The bolt in the second picture was most recalcitrant, and required the application of the "Bus Destination Pole of Justice"

Ably modelled by CMS206


That concluded Fridays efforts.

Saturday update to come.

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So to today.

I started with high hopes


This is the Volvo unit. Despite different part numbers, it has all the ports in the right place and takes the bolts from the golf one no bother.

I got the bolts all swapped over and fitted the unit to the car


You can see how the Volvo bolts look considerably less crusty than the golf ones


With it all fitted and tightened up (including injector 4 in a test bottle) ...



We got...




There was no fuel in the test bottle, and I could only hear the pumps running intermittently.


Time to turn my attention to the fuel pump relay. Logic being that the metering head needs to be able to provide 75psi to the injectors to get them to open.

The lack of any fuel in the test bottle suggests we are not getting sufficient fuel pressure at the metering head. 

This could be either due to the fuel relay being intermittent, or the main pump not providing pressure.

Tucked up in the passenger footwell, the relay is easy* to reach.

Initial inspection showed signs of rusting - never good


After some gentle persuasion with a screwdriver, the relay was out


Time to order a new one then.

As a final hurrah, it also decided that it'd like to make some horrible noises when the starter tried to engage..

I think the battery may just be getting tired.

So, where are we?

I'm of the suspicion that:

1. Still have a starter/ignition switch issue

2. The metering head(s) are seeing insufficient fuel pressure to operate.


Next step will be seeing about a new relay (possibly even a new fuseboard) and testing that.

I'll likely pull the starter too.


Onwards and upwards.

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  • 5 months later...

I think thats a ce2 fuse board, they're not too bad, nothing fancy inside them just brass plates that funnel the electrons. If the relay pins are rusty then it suggests there been water in the fuse box - I would definitely investigate this further as it'll give you grief down the line. If i remember right, the CE1 type has round pins on the connectors on the back. CE2 has flat blades pins. All connectors just unplug and should* only fit back in the right place, so you can remove the fuse box from the car. I'd definitely take a handful of pictures before unplugging everything though,

I think that is a fancy relay with electronics inside it to cut the fuel pump off at a certain RPM, as a type of rev limiter. This will make it MUCH more susceptible to any dampness.

A #63 relay is a none-rev-limiter type. Less to go wrong. You can just bridge the two fat terminals out with a bit of wire or a switch for now.


The metering head off the volvo might fit, but it will be calibrated incorrectly for the engine. Perhaps useful to practice stripping one down and for parts.


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Dampness is possible* in this car’s history.

This is why I will never have another soft top.

The fusebox is a much more likely candidate than the metering head or immobiliser, in my view. And much easier/cheaper to replace and therefore eliminate from enquiries, at least.

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A mere* 10 days after the last post on this thread, some stuff happened ..

Firstly, it was time to open up the lab!



Then, with a little assistance from another VAG member of the fleet, up she fired.


After a bit of time to steady the idle, she trundled round onto the hardstanding, so I can start working on it.


The burd is supposed to be washing it tomorrow..

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Obviously, with Scots incarcerated, the April weather was exceeding all expectations.

I contrived to convince the burd to assist in washing and de-mingifiying the golf..

It got a "wan bucket, wan watering can" approach and came up ok.

Then it was onto the interior..




We also discovered the meaning of 'old money'


I had a look at the radiator in the car today, and it doesn't look a complex job to remove.


It looks like the new radiator is correct too.IMG_20200402_190222.thumb.jpg.d0ea892b3afe2a49a6e88e18bcb9b710.jpg

I have a day off from work tomorrow so hoping to fit the rad...

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Today it was time for an epic battle - Man Vs Radiator!

First up was identifying the foes:

The temp sender


The fan connector


The top hose clamp


The bottom hose clamp


And the two top mounts



I worked my way methodically round these simple challenges whilst the coolant drained, and the rad was ready to come out.

Except it wasn't.. these sneaky fuckers were holding it in..



After they were removed, it was a great success!


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Time to strip the fan shroud off so I can clean and paint it:

Found some evidence that the rad has been sleeping for a while..



The fan shroud was wire brushed and some primer applied


Then, once dry it was time for a couple of coats of black



Whilst that dried, I tapped out the shroud mounts on the new rad.


This was easily done using a mounting bolt - the plastic was fairly soft.



With that done and the paint dry, I reattached the fan and mounted the shroud back onto the new radiator.

I also reattached the blinds too


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  • 320touring changed the title to The Burd's MK1 Golf Rivage - fun and games of various nature's 22/11/22

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